Thailand and Bali may attract the big crowds, but this island offers better diving
The turquoise water hugs my wetsuit-clad body like a warm embrace, while a kaleidoscope of life explodes around me: a majestic turtle effortlessly glides by, casting a lazy glance in my direction; clownfish, tiny flames of orange, dart through swaying anemones, while below, coral gardens pulse with brilliant neon hues as sunlight dances through impossibly clear water.
A string of coral-fringed islands strewn across a vast expanse of the western Pacific, the Philippines is a place full of natural wonders. The second-largest archipelago on Earth, its captivating blend of idyllic islands and adventure-filled rainforests positions it as one of South-East Asia's greatest – yet still relatively undiscovered – treasures. And, below sea level, the country has even more to shout about.
Located at the centre of the 'Coral Triangle', the Philippines can legitimately lay claim to some of the best diving on the planet. From turtles and stingrays to sharks, there are more than 1200 documented species inhabiting its waters, alongside roughly 80 per cent of the world's known coral species. Added to its natural attractions is an abundance of wrecks and an underdeveloped tourism industry, which means that dive sites are both unspoilt and uncrowded. But with more than 7000 tropical islands to choose from, where do you begin?
Kick off your diving hit-list with Palawan. An easy 90-minute flight from Manila, the province is a maze of sparsely inhabited islands located between the South China and Sulu seas. The largest island (after which the province is named) has found increasing fame over the years, often appearing on lists of the 'most beautiful islands in the world'. Also on Palawan lies the UNESCO-recognised municipality, El Nido.
In El Nido, sparkling emerald lagoons surround towering islands of sheer limestone cliffs crowned with vivid green vegetation. Here, the ocean is your highway and divers are ferried between about 30 dive sites in traditional 'bangka' boats. Depth of the dives ranges from six to 30 metres-plus and there are some great spots for beginners.
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A few hours away by fast ferry lies Coron and its fascinating collection of WWII Japanese shipwrecks, which have been transformed into thriving coral reefs. The must-do dives include the Olympia Maru freighter, adorned with black coral and surrounded by giant puffer fish and swaying anemones, and the Irako – consistently rated as one of the best wreck dives in the world – where large groupers, impressive schools of tuna and yellowfin, camouflaged lionfish, and intriguing scorpionfish abound. Best of all, the area's sheltered waters ensure that these captivating wrecks are diveable year-round.
When it comes to picking a dive operator you'd be hard-pressed to find a better organisation than Scuba for Change – a social enterprise that works with local communities to help stop child exploitation and to empower women in developing countries. The not-for-profit operates dives from its centre in the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve of Puerto Galera. Given that 100 per cent of its profits are reinvested into the organisation, you can dive with a clean conscience.
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