Under Pressure: Can Fashion's Sustainability Efforts Survive?

Business of Fashion

16 hours ago

Every year, fashion's climate campaigners descend on Copenhagen for the Global Fashion Summit, the industry's highest-profile sustainability gathering.
The event, which is typically dominated by large brands offering up a relentlessly optimistic prognosis on the industry's climate efforts, was unusually downbeat this year. Many of fashion's biggest companies were noticeably absent — a function of squeezed travel budgets and fear (few executives appeared willing to weigh in on an increasingly politically charged topic where there is little positive to say).
To be sure, advocates for a greener, kinder fashion industry have quietly acknowledged that the movement was struggling for a while. But they held out hope that moves to toughen up regulation would keep forcing things forward.
This year, that has all but evaporated. A rightward swing in Europe has prompted a regulatory rollback in the name of competitiveness. Brussels is pushing to cut red tape and simplify pioneering environmental reporting and due diligence requirements in a move critics argue undermines the legislation.
'Europe has failed,' Danish brand Bestseller's stakeholder engagement and human rights manager, Claus Teilmann Petersen, said during a panel discussion teeing up the summit. 'I see this battle as being… kind of lost.'
Then there is the active threat posed by the Trump administration, which has pulled the US out of the Paris Climate agreement, slashed funding from programmes focused on labour rights and climate action and launched a chaotic trade war that has plunged much of the industry into survival mode.
Instead of looking for progress, many in the space are just trying to figure out what can be saved.
'There's this sort of paralysis that's happening right now,' the American Apparel and Footwear Association's senior director for sustainability Chelsea Murtha told the summit. 'Everyone's trying to figure out what can we continue to hold onto.' What Next?
On the sidelines, many insiders acknowledged the movement is running on fumes. Already some companies are making small sustainability sacrifices in the name of economising, opting to switch out pricier lower impact materials for cheaper, more conventional ones, I was told. Attendees said expected companies to largely stay the course with programmes already in place, but acknowledged the uncertainty was likely to slow future action.
It's not clear where new momentum could come from. Until there's more clarity on tariffs, the industry is holding a collective breath. The EU is still pushing forward with regulations that would set more sustainable design and recycling requirements, but these have yet to be fully defined.
Alongside the usual calls for more collective action and innovation, there was a greater focus on the importance of advocacy in favour of policies that could lend fresh support to fashion's climate efforts.
'We need to have courage,' said slow fashion pioneer Eileen Fisher. 'We have to do more and show up and collaborate more.'
The real remaining wild card is climate change itself. This year is once again on track to be one of the warmest on record. Increasingly extreme weather is a threat to raw material supply chains, worker safety and retail traffic. So far, disruptions from floods, wildfires and searing heat have not led to significant disruptions for the industry. Still, with future costs of climate change expected to mount into the trillions of dollars in the future, fashion may come to regret complacency today.
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Compiled by Jessica Kwon.