Trace the evolution of Italian fashion jewellery at this exhibit

Observer

15-02-2025

Stepping into the captivating world of Italian fashion jewellery at the National Museum of Oman is nothing short of enchanting in 2025. The exhibition, titled 'Diva! Italian Glamour in Fashion Jewellery,' showcases an exquisite array of collections spanning from the 1950s to the present day, each piece a testimony to the artistry and innovation intrinsic to Italian fashion.
Amongst the treasures from the 1950s, we are greeted by the dramatic presence of heavier designs, with a particularly intriguing focus on animal-themed collections. As the decades unfolded, jewellery makers began pushing boundaries, experimenting with an eclectic mix of materials beyond traditional gold. Notable examples include the use of ceramic and leather, with some daringly incorporating industrial elements like oil filters in more contemporary works.
Highlighting the richness of this era is the striking Butterfly necklace by Ornella Bijoux, crafted from gold-galvanised ceramic and adorned with intricate murrine, glass paste, and crystals, dating back to 1975. A standout from 1925 is the vibrant coral necklace sourced from the Deanna Farneti Cera Archive. Innovative designer Paola Volpi Gioilli surprises us with the Tilted Alga, a remarkable piece created from industrial oil filters interlaced with cultured pearls.
More recent creations, such as the kimono collection earrings by Lebole Gioielli, made from silk, wood, gold, and galvanised brass, highlight the evolving trends of 2013. Gucci's necklace, blending brass with glass, and Carmen Scar's Place Vendome Smeraldo, made of linen, oil colours, and resin, further demonstrate the diverse artistry that has emerged in modern times.
The exhibition is a narrative of Italy's rich jewellery history, showcasing modern craftsmanship through pieces like the Timone necklace by Grazia & Marcia Vozza from 2018, which harmoniously combines silver, gold, turquoise paste, tiger's eye, and mother of pearl. An elegant eye-catching piece, the Re Ottavio – Princess Grace Necklace, created in 1960, boasts gold-galvanised brass, pearls, and crystals, adding a touch of nostalgia to the collection.
Curated by Professor Alba Cappellieri, a distinguished Jewellery Design educator at Politecnico di Milano and Director of the Vicenza Museum of Jewellery, this exhibition is the culmination of two years of meticulous research. Professor Cappellieri shared with the Observer, "The purpose of this collection is to reveal that Italian fashion jewellery transcends mere ornamentation. It embodies creativity, craftsmanship, and innovation." She emphasised the significance of ancient techniques, such as enamel, alongside contemporary materials, echoing the sentiment that beauty stems from both creativity and quality.
Supported by the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation, this exhibition fosters a cultural dialogue between Italy and the Sultanate of Oman, reinforcing the bonds of friendship and collaboration between both nations. Visitors are invited to explore the artistic evolution of modern Italian jewellery, representing a hallmark of global Italian creativity.
The pieces on display also reflect the dynamic social changes throughout the decades. The exhibition invites visitors to consider Italian fashion jewellery not merely as aesthetic embellishments but as cultural artefacts that embody the roots and values of Italian heritage. As Diva! elegantly explores the masterpieces crafted by renowned Italian bijoutiers and independent designers, it highlights the outstanding craftsmanship that epitomises unique Italian creativity on a global stage.
This celebration features an array of visionary talents, from established masters to burgeoning designers, each contributing their unique perspectives under the unifying theme of excellence in Italian fashion jewellery.