I spent 48 hours in Ao Nang and found the perfect Thai beach getaway
There's good reason tourists follow the footsteps of the pirates once present in the Krabi town of Ao Nang.
With its hidden coves and camel-shaped limestone rocks jutting hundreds of metres out of emerald waters, this slice of Thailand is an area of ravishing beauty.
As well as restaurants with menus that tour the globe, you'll find massage parlours, night markets, clubs and hookah bars flanking powdery beaches as white as coconut meat. Adventures await inland, too, from visiting elephant sanctuaries to hiking mountain crests.
DAY 1: Morning
Planted amid neatly aligned rubber trees and towering peaks, Into the Forest cafe is a good place to kick off the day. It's surrounded by natural attractions and encapsulates the appeal of this karst region formed by the same tectonic smash-up as the Himalayas. I arrive at 9am and head straight for the terrace for a late Forest Breakfast (omelette, bread and jam – no bacon for me – cherry tomatoes and rosemary-roasted potatoes).
After soaking up the chill atmosphere – the sun peeps down from the cliff behind me while a spring fountain bubbles below – I hop on my scooter. Next stop? Sa Kaeo, or 'pool as clear as glass'.
This still, turquoise pool is said to be the deepest freshwater basin in Southeast Asia. It looks shallow but a local cave diver confirms it has a 240m-deep, submerged cave. Other on-site caves are home to bats. The entrance fee includes parking, a bottle of water, headlamp, plus a Tarzan jump from a rope above the invigorating pool.
The striking emerald pool of Sa Kaeo, the deepest of its kind in Southeast Asia.
Lunch
Five kilometres away is Khaothong Elephant Camp. These majestic animals are rooted in Thai history. They were instruments of war and used for transport because, unlike horses, tigers didn't attack them. Chained and with ropes attached, they also had to knock old rubber trees down on hills unreachable for machines.
I grab some noodles with beef balls, chicken legs and morning glory from Muttoam, a nearby streetside stall, then fuelled up, I meet pachyderms formerly abused for human entertainment. Riding the adorable giants is a big no-no here, but you can let them nab sugarcane off your hands, walk alongside as they blow air from their trunks, or prepare their food using mortar and pestle.
Resident elephants at Khaothong Elephant Camp.
Afternoon
No wonder Leonardo DiCaprio and Jackie Chan have been to Long Klong Srakaew. Framed by thick jungle, the kilometre-long, green-tinted freshwater stream is great for an adrenaline rush. Whether you kayak down the brook or float on an inflatable rubber ring you're almost guaranteed to hear a cuckoo's exotic tak-tak calls.
Be sure to add Kuan Nom Saow restaurant to your itinerary. Looking out over a sea of shrubs, palms and rubber trees stretching away over millions of acres of deep green woodland towards limestone monoliths on the horizon, this eatery and viewpoint will knock your socks off. There's also a campsite.
View from Kuan Nom Saow restaurant.
Evening
Back in the town centre, I stroll through the bustling Landmark Night Market for the meats barbecued on skewers, handicrafts and paintings of beautiful Thai scenery. Enjoying live music, I end the day with some fishy crocodile on a stick and watch fire spinners setting the night ablaze.
The vibrant Landmark Night Market.
DAY 2: Morning
I'm up early for a trek to Dragon Crest Mountain, also known as Khao Ngon Nak, after a coconut pie and coffee from a 7-Eleven.
The steep, 3.7km nature trail is an effective post-meal workout. You'll crouch beneath fallen tree trunks, pull yourself up on snake-shaped roots, and catch your breath in the Auburn Zone, where trees are fairytale red. Two hours later and I'm breathing fresh cool mountain air atop Dragon Crest, some 560m above sea level. Overlooking jungle-clad limestone rocks that slope to the Krabi coast, the summit is on a frequency of its own, set apart from the fast-paced world.
Dragon Crest Mountain (Khao Ngon Nak) nature trail leads to breathtaking views.
Lunch
Returning to Ao Nang, I stumble across the Thanark Gardens, an Asian fusion restaurant amid hanging plants and ferns in pots. This peaceful retreat serves everything from fried chicken wings to mildly spicy Massaman curry with incredible depth of taste. Inside you're set for a surprise. Angled pendant lights hint at Art Deco, while stained-glass windows radiate an old-world charm not typical in this part of Thailand. It's an inviting setting for a cool drink or lunch.
Traditional Thail longtail boat at picturesque Railay Beach.
Afternoon
Longtail boats anchored at the water's edge, gentle, emerald waves lapping over white sand, bioluminescent plankton and a hippie enclave, all under the watch of a giant rock the shape of a stalagmite. It looks like Maya Bay from the movie The Beach, but it's Railay, south of Ao Nang. There, surrounded by cliffs, I work on my tan and watch rock climbers sweating buckets. While this mesmerising coastline would be a good contender for the world's most beautiful peninsula, the quieter Noppharat Thara Beach further north wins me over for the rest of the lazy afternoon.
Noppharat Thara Beach is a quieter alternative to Railay Beach.
Evening
I've let the hours slip past gently in the shade of casuarinas, missing the chance to book a table at Kodam Kitchen. The roofed, open-sided restaurant is loved for its amazing and affordable Thai cuisine. A good alternative on a Saturday is Klong Haeng Market, which has local prices. If your body needs rest, enjoy an aromatherapy reward at Radarom Spa. This spa sets the standard in the region as it runs its own massage school, issuing certificates recognised by Thailand's Ministry of Public Health.
Great for post-dinner drinks, Mr Long Bar boasts a casual rastafari vibe and live music later in the night.
How to get to Krabi, Thailand from Australia
Thai Airways has direct flights daily from Bangkok to Krabi, as have budget airlines Thai VietJet Air, Thai Lion Air and Thai AirAsia. Minibuses and taxis will take you from the airport to Ao Nang. Direct buses also operate between Krabi and Ao Nang.
Where to stay at Ao Nang
The modestly priced Blu Monkey Pooltara Krabi Hotel hides in a quiet location close to nature and offers free bicycle rental for guests. Peace and quiet also await at Aonang Hill Krabi, backdropped by towering karst peaks.
How to get around Ao Nang
Ao Nang itself is delightfully walkable. If you're keen to explore the mountain hideaways, rent a scooter (make sure your travel insurance covers you first) or hop on a tuktuk, a four-wheel mini-truck.
Originally published as I spent 48 hours in Ao Nang and found the perfect Thai beach getaway
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I found the best of Enniskillen, Northern Ireland's only island town
Don't miss out on the headlines from Lifestyle. Followed categories will be added to My News. Not every Australian could find Enniskillen on a map, but Erne Water Taxi's Barry Flanagan has a simple hack to help locate his home town. 'If Ireland was your face then you are right here, on the inside of your right eyebrow,' he says, holding a finger to his temple. I know that I will never forget this – but, equally, that it will never be of any use to me. I'm cruising with Flanagan on Island Discovery, an electric pontoon boat co-skippered by the permanently smiling Clare Brogan, who seems to do all the actual work. We're gliding silently around Enniskillen through the still waters of Lough Erne, watching seabirds forage among the reeds. Island Discovery electric boat tour at Enniskillen. Picture: Northern Island Tourism Enniskillen is the only island town in Northern Ireland, built between Lower Lough Erne and Upper Lough Erne. 'The funny thing is,' says Flanagan, 'Lower Lough Erne is higher up on the map than Upper Lough Erne.' Of course it is. From Lower Lough Erne, the River Erne flows into Donegal Bay at the town of Ballyshannon. 'The next stop: Australia,' says Flanagan, in the apparent belief that Australia lies in the Atlantic Ocean. Enniskillen Island Town is well connected with bridges. Picture: Ireland Tourism Enniskillen is linked to the mainland by five road bridges and two pedestrian bridges, and the residents of social housing on the mainland overlooking the island enjoy what Flanagan calls 'the best view in the world' (and it is pretty good). Most of the tenants have boats moored in front of their homes and the opportunity to lead what my host describes as 'the Venice lifestyle' (which is a bit of a stretch). They can take their runabout to the shopping centre – 'no traffic lights, no traffic jams, no arguments, no nothing' – or tie up at a private jetty alongside the Lough Inn pub. The engrossing Lough Erne Hop pontoon tour lasts 90 minutes, and passes beneath the Georgian edifice of Enniskillen Royal Grammar School, which was once Portora Royal School, whose former pupils include Oscar Wilde, Samuel Beckett and the bloke who wrote the theme tune to the TV show Father Ted. The pontoon is so quiet that the ducks in the lough can't hear it. Brogan has to go to the front of the boat and tap it to warn them to get out of the way. Erne Water Taxi at Enniskillen. Picture: Ireland Tourism The tragedy of Enniskillen is that people who can't find the town on the map (and have no access to Flanagan's face) still remember the November 8, 1987, Remembrance Day bombing, in which an IRA attack killed 12 people and injured 63 others. Nobody much wants to discuss this. When pressed about the bomb, Brogan says: 'I was in hospital as a child. I was admitted the day it went off, so I saw it from the hospital window. And I was at the hospital when everyone was coming through. 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How to get to Enniskillen I arrived in Northern Ireland via Dublin on the British Airways flight from Sydney. Enniskillen is about two hours' drive from Dublin Airport and 90 minutes by road from Belfast Airport. The gateway you choose depends largely on where else you want to go. Return fares on my surprisingly comfortable BA flight start at about $2100. Originally published as I found the best of Enniskillen, Northern Ireland's only island town
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a day ago
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Review: Azerai Ke Ga Bay in Vietnam dazzles with sunsets and style
Don't miss out on the headlines from Lifestyle. Followed categories will be added to My News. Set the scene Adrian Zecha, a foundation partner of Regent Hotels International and the legendary creator of Aman resorts (now simply branded Aman), launched his Singapore-headquartered standalone group Azerai in 2017 and the luxury accommodation world instantly took notice, hailing 'transformative experiences' and outstanding design to rival the original Aman resorts. After a debut in Luang Prabang, Laos, Zecha chose Vietnam as the destination to consolidate his Azerai brand, with a colonial-style property in Hue, followed by Azerai Ke Ga Bay, formerly Princess D Annam Resort & Spa, a mecca for golfers. Unsurprisingly, considering Zecha's credentials, the immaculately refurbished and expanded property is now one of the country's leading beach retreats. Azerai Ke Ga Bay lies on a stunning stretch of sand. The location On the southeast coast of Vietnam in Phan Thiet, Lam Dong province, Azerai Ke Ga Bay is set amid 4.5 hectares of gardens scented with ginger and exotic herbs. It's a beautiful estate centrally sited near dunes on a 5km-long stretch of white sand overlooking the East Sea. The property is about 200km northeast from Ho Chi Minh City, accessed by road and rail. The destination is renowned for its spectacular sunsets over the South China Sea and certainly rates up there with the best beach spreads of, say, Bali, Lombok and southern Thailand. To the east is Hon Ba Island with its 19th-century lighthouse built by the colonial French to aid navigation. Private estate vibes at Azerai Ke Ga Bay. The vibe This is five-star territory, with immaculate service and an easy-breezy feel amid terraces, lawns and pavilions. There's an understated sense of fine interior design, with no flashy gold touches or designer bling. 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The entire estate feels boundless, heliconia bushes and banyan trees add jolts of colour and welcome shade, and there are ample spaces to relax and wander. The room A description of 'room' barely does justice to the accommodation. The 57-strong inventory choice here covers suites, villas and pavilions, all as comfy and classy as the categories suggest. Consider a pool villa, accommodating two adults and a child across 130 sqm of indoor space. There's a private courtyard with petite plunge pool and outdoor furniture. Natural stone, smooth pebbled surfaces and timbers have been locally sourced. Expect a pastel palette, soft rattan matting and organic textures across a flow-through design, smart bathrooms with deep soaking tubs, Vietnamese artworks and plenty of natural light. The bedding and pillows are luxuriously soft; laundry service is fast and efficient. Space galore in the rooms. The action The beach is fun central. Complimentary activities abound, from body boarding and beach net fishing to pétanque, kite flying and beach volleyball. Use of some equipment, such as catamarans and kayaks, incurs a rental fee, and lessons can be booked for windsurfing and stand-up paddleboarding, plus enjoyable hands-on cooking classes. Guests can take part in beach net fishing. Food and drink Unusually for this part of the world, menu items at Azerai Ke Ga Bay are labelled with dietary information, such as containing gluten, nuts or dairy, with alternative options available. Whether western style or Vietnamese staples, the dishes are consistently delicious. Breakfast on the alfresco Terrace, which has lovely sea views and runs on a leisurely timetable from 6.30am to 10am, is a standout, featuring faultless eggs benedict and crab cakes plus plenty of continental selections, freshly baked bread and pastries plus local specialties. Drink in the sea views from the terrace. I've heard it said that dining Vietnamese style is like "eating a garden" and it's true. Think: lemongrass, ginger, coriander, bird's-eye chillies, mint, basil and lime. It's fresh, yummy, and virtuous. A banh mì crunchy baguette roll is a great snack option for lunch, layered with chopped egg salad and a range of spicy condiments on the side. Or go for generously plump rice-paper rolls and chilli-speckled green mango salad. There are cocktails and mocktails available, all very colourful and amply garnished, but the must-try local drink is a bright pink dragonfruit smoothie and there are tours of a nearby farm where this tropical fruit, packed with Vitamin C and antioxidants, is grown. I'm told they even use dragonfruit as an exfoliant for the resort's wellness spa scrub treatments. The dining is fresh and delicious. Another food and beverage space is the slightly fancier Dining Room, with light but substantial menus. 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And then there's The Azerai Spa where an Asian Wave Massage is sure to send you into a blissful reverie. Instead of a recorded soundtrack, expect the gentle sound of the ocean and smooth strokes as therapists apply fragrant oils. There are similarities to a Hawaiian Lomi Lomi massage in the wave technique, with elements of shiatsu, Thai and Swedish, but pressure and style can be adapted to guests' preferences. Use of the steamroom and sauna is complimentary and the spa menu covers the expected facials, scrubs, hand and foot therapies, wraps and hair treatments, plus yoga, reflexology and meditation sessions are popular. The gym has high-tech cardiovascular and strength-training equipment (if you must). The hotel spa is a haven of relaxation. What's not As a resort that straddles the divide between couples and families, and seems very popular with honeymooners, also be aware that there could be a preponderance of children during school holidays, so enquire when booking dates. The verdict: 8.5/10 There are bigger and flashier beach resorts in south Vietnam but few with such a stunning beach setting, intuitive staff and a groovy sense of slightly retro modernist design across multiple accommodation categories. The estate is easy to walk around; meals are leisurely and there's an excellent afternoon tea service served from 3.30pm to 4.30pm plus in-room dining. This is a place of generosity and goodwill, even down to the branded beach totes and plentiful bottled water in each room, free wi-fi, ample tea and coffee-making supplies, and excellent bath amenities. Definitely one for the 'must go back' files. This writer was a guest of Azerai Ke Ga Bay. Originally published as Review: Azerai Ke Ga Bay in Vietnam dazzles with sunsets and style
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3 days ago
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Matt Preston finds the best tortellini in Italy's Emilia Romagna region
Don't miss out on the headlines from Lifestyle. Followed categories will be added to My News. The countryside between Parma and Bologna is the culinary heart of Italy. Sure, Naples, Rome, Milan and Florence all have claims but with world-famous produce like Parmesan Reggiano, Balsamic vinegar, Mortadella and Prosciutto di Parma, and world-famous dishes like lasagne – and the best chocolate ice cream in the world – the region of Emilia Romagna punches well above its weight. A certain world-famous spaghetti dish also bears the capital's name. Embark on an Italian odyssey: Discover the 10 most thrilling destinations to explore Video Player is loading. Play Video This is a modal window. Beginning of dialog window. Escape will cancel and close the window. 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This modal can be closed by pressing the Escape key or activating the close button. 00:26 SUBSCRIBER ONLY Embark on an Italian odyssey: Discover the 10 most thrilling destinations to explore more more odyssey as we unveil the top 10 destinations that promise an exhilarating journey through this enchanting country. Prepare to embark on a thrilling Italian...... ... more It is also home to globally recognised chefs Massimo Bottura – the man behind former world No.1 restaurant Osteria Francescana – and locavore champion Massimo Spigaroli from the Michelin-starred Antica Corte Pallavicina. This all makes the medieval cities of Parma, Modena and Bologna a brilliant destination for anyone who likes food and wine, loves history and wants to embrace the area's vibrant way of life. I've been coming here since the 1980s and it still never fails to impress and charm. The landscapes of the Emilia Romagno region are as delightful as its cuisine. One locally revered dish is seldom on visitors' bucket lists. It's a dish of impeccable delicacy and depth that gets lost overseas under the ruckus created by noisier pastas like carbonara and 'matriciana, bolognese and lasagne. 'In Modena if you don't believe in God, you can always believe in tortellini,' Massimo Bottura tells me with a laugh down the line from Italy. When I speak to Massimo Spigaroli, he says: 'The supreme quality of the (local) products used, such as the parmesan cheese, and the ancient knowledge of our land is what makes for the perfect tortellini al brodo.' Tortellini al brodo is a traditional dish claimed by both Bologna and Modena. Tortellini al brodo is claimed as 'theirs' by both Modena and Bologna and sits proudly on most menus of the area. Eating the pasta in no more than the broth is apparently the best way to see the skill of the cook and the required fine-finger technique of the pasta maker's skill. Such is the obsession with doing tortellini al brodo the 'right way' I reckon it's hard to find a bad one – even at a dodgy place behind Bologna's central railway station. This is also held out by local foodies' guides all listing different places to get the best tortellini. I found the tortellini good and al dente but the broth a little salty at the century-old Emilian icon Ristorante Diana, but I loved the version at Drogheria della Rosa. This quirky spot on a quiet side street in Bologna is the perfect place to while away a long lunch. The simplicity of the dish leaves nowhere to hide but the tortellini here are deliciously plump with the umami hit of meat boosted by the aged parmesan also in the filling. (Never sprinkle extra parmesan over the tortellini because it should have enough in it and you'll throw the hard-strived-for balance of the dish.) Drogheria della Rosa is Matt Preston's choice for tortellini in Bologna. Luck has a hand in me finding a fine tortellini al brodo in Modena. We're dragging our cases from the train station to our accommodation when a yellow sign in a nondescript suburban street hoves into view. Trattoria Ermes opened in 1963, and the late chef and owner Ermes Rinaldi became a giant of Modenese cuisine. The restaurant he left still is. Amazingly they have one table left for lunch. The dining room is tiny; communal tables with red-checked tablecloths are packed and the vibe is boisterous. The set menu changes each lunch but thankfully today is a tortellini al brodo day and there's a €12 bottle of local lambrusco on the table – it's the most expensive on the list – suggested by winemakers having a long, fraternal and raucous lunch at a nearby table. The €10 bowl of pasta has a broth that is clean but rich, and the tortellini are suitably half and half meat and pasta. This is the sort of honest cookery that I travel for and while their stewed tripe might be a little too rustic for some, escalopes of pork finished with balsamic vinegar are such a hit that it's a recipe I now make at home. Cavallino restaurant at the Ferrari Factory at Maranello. Another fine choice for tortellini in Modena is Cavallino, the restaurant overseen by Massimo Bottura at the Ferrari Factory at Maranello. The tortellini here is handmade by children and adults on the autism spectrum in a social workshop project called Il Tortellante that's been running for almost a decade – the project says this traditional, precise but repetitive process helps instil traditional skills, confidence and a sense of inclusion. The students' mentors are local nonnas who in Modena are revered with the title rezdora… 'she who rolls'. They are highly valued as the custodians and teachers of the ancient local culinary ways of which tortellini is paramount. I ask Massimo Spigaroli for his favourite tortellini outside home and he points to Osteria di Fornio, a simple rustic restaurant 10 minutes outside Fidenza. It immediately goes on my bucket list. Originally published as Matt Preston finds the best tortellini in Italy's Emilia Romagna region
