I spent 48 hours in Ao Nang and found the perfect Thai beach getaway
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There's good reason tourists follow the footsteps of the pirates once present in the Krabi town of Ao Nang.
With its hidden coves and camel-shaped limestone rocks jutting hundreds of metres out of emerald waters, this slice of Thailand is an area of ravishing beauty.
As well as restaurants with menus that tour the globe, you'll find massage parlours, night markets, clubs and hookah bars flanking powdery beaches as white as coconut meat. Adventures await inland, too, from visiting elephant sanctuaries to hiking mountain crests.
DAY 1: Morning
Planted amid neatly aligned rubber trees and towering peaks, Into the Forest cafe is a good place to kick off the day. It's surrounded by natural attractions and encapsulates the appeal of this karst region formed by the same tectonic smash-up as the Himalayas. I arrive at 9am and head straight for the terrace for a late Forest Breakfast (omelette, bread and jam – no bacon for me – cherry tomatoes and rosemary-roasted potatoes).
After soaking up the chill atmosphere – the sun peeps down from the cliff behind me while a spring fountain bubbles below – I hop on my scooter. Next stop? Sa Kaeo, or 'pool as clear as glass'.
This still, turquoise pool is said to be the deepest freshwater basin in Southeast Asia. It looks shallow but a local cave diver confirms it has a 240m-deep, submerged cave. Other on-site caves are home to bats. The entrance fee includes parking, a bottle of water, headlamp, plus a Tarzan jump from a rope above the invigorating pool.
The striking emerald pool of Sa Kaeo, the deepest of its kind in Southeast Asia.
Lunch
Five kilometres away is Khaothong Elephant Camp. These majestic animals are rooted in Thai history. They were instruments of war and used for transport because, unlike horses, tigers didn't attack them. Chained and with ropes attached, they also had to knock old rubber trees down on hills unreachable for machines.
I grab some noodles with beef balls, chicken legs and morning glory from Muttoam, a nearby streetside stall, then fuelled up, I meet pachyderms formerly abused for human entertainment. Riding the adorable giants is a big no-no here, but you can let them nab sugarcane off your hands, walk alongside as they blow air from their trunks, or prepare their food using mortar and pestle.
Resident elephants at Khaothong Elephant Camp.
Afternoon
No wonder Leonardo DiCaprio and Jackie Chan have been to Long Klong Srakaew. Framed by thick jungle, the kilometre-long, green-tinted freshwater stream is great for an adrenaline rush. Whether you kayak down the brook or float on an inflatable rubber ring you're almost guaranteed to hear a cuckoo's exotic tak-tak calls.
Be sure to add Kuan Nom Saow restaurant to your itinerary. Looking out over a sea of shrubs, palms and rubber trees stretching away over millions of acres of deep green woodland towards limestone monoliths on the horizon, this eatery and viewpoint will knock your socks off. There's also a campsite.
View from Kuan Nom Saow restaurant.
Evening
Back in the town centre, I stroll through the bustling Landmark Night Market for the meats barbecued on skewers, handicrafts and paintings of beautiful Thai scenery. Enjoying live music, I end the day with some fishy crocodile on a stick and watch fire spinners setting the night ablaze.
The vibrant Landmark Night Market.
DAY 2: Morning
I'm up early for a trek to Dragon Crest Mountain, also known as Khao Ngon Nak, after a coconut pie and coffee from a 7-Eleven.
The steep, 3.7km nature trail is an effective post-meal workout. You'll crouch beneath fallen tree trunks, pull yourself up on snake-shaped roots, and catch your breath in the Auburn Zone, where trees are fairytale red. Two hours later and I'm breathing fresh cool mountain air atop Dragon Crest, some 560m above sea level. Overlooking jungle-clad limestone rocks that slope to the Krabi coast, the summit is on a frequency of its own, set apart from the fast-paced world.
Dragon Crest Mountain (Khao Ngon Nak) nature trail leads to breathtaking views.
Lunch
Returning to Ao Nang, I stumble across the Thanark Gardens, an Asian fusion restaurant amid hanging plants and ferns in pots. This peaceful retreat serves everything from fried chicken wings to mildly spicy Massaman curry with incredible depth of taste. Inside you're set for a surprise. Angled pendant lights hint at Art Deco, while stained-glass windows radiate an old-world charm not typical in this part of Thailand. It's an inviting setting for a cool drink or lunch.
Traditional Thail longtail boat at picturesque Railay Beach.
Afternoon
Longtail boats anchored at the water's edge, gentle, emerald waves lapping over white sand, bioluminescent plankton and a hippie enclave, all under the watch of a giant rock the shape of a stalagmite. It looks like Maya Bay from the movie The Beach, but it's Railay, south of Ao Nang. There, surrounded by cliffs, I work on my tan and watch rock climbers sweating buckets. While this mesmerising coastline would be a good contender for the world's most beautiful peninsula, the quieter Noppharat Thara Beach further north wins me over for the rest of the lazy afternoon.
Noppharat Thara Beach is a quieter alternative to Railay Beach.
Evening
I've let the hours slip past gently in the shade of casuarinas, missing the chance to book a table at Kodam Kitchen. The roofed, open-sided restaurant is loved for its amazing and affordable Thai cuisine. A good alternative on a Saturday is Klong Haeng Market, which has local prices. If your body needs rest, enjoy an aromatherapy reward at Radarom Spa. This spa sets the standard in the region as it runs its own massage school, issuing certificates recognised by Thailand's Ministry of Public Health.
Great for post-dinner drinks, Mr Long Bar boasts a casual rastafari vibe and live music later in the night.
How to get to Krabi, Thailand from Australia
Thai Airways has direct flights daily from Bangkok to Krabi, as have budget airlines Thai VietJet Air, Thai Lion Air and Thai AirAsia. Minibuses and taxis will take you from the airport to Ao Nang. Direct buses also operate between Krabi and Ao Nang.
Where to stay at Ao Nang
The modestly priced Blu Monkey Pooltara Krabi Hotel hides in a quiet location close to nature and offers free bicycle rental for guests. Peace and quiet also await at Aonang Hill Krabi, backdropped by towering karst peaks.
How to get around Ao Nang
Ao Nang itself is delightfully walkable. If you're keen to explore the mountain hideaways, rent a scooter (make sure your travel insurance covers you first) or hop on a tuktuk, a four-wheel mini-truck.
Originally published as I spent 48 hours in Ao Nang and found the perfect Thai beach getaway
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