Loh Mei Specialist: SG's only stall selling this fermented beancurd stew?

Yahoo

2 days ago

You would think in a multi-cultural foodie paradise like Singapore, there's bound to be at least 2 same stalls selling the same dish. However, Loh Mei Specialist proved me wrong as I was searching for stalls to feature in our recent Food Centre guide.
, alternatively known as Loh Kai Yik, is a traditional Cantonese dish that was mostly sold on push carts back in the 1950s and 60s. It has a unique flavour profile, with a base of a stew made from Nam Yu (red fermented bean curd). A plethora of braised liao, ranging from tofu and a medley of meats to veggies can be found in the mix.
As I waited in line to order, the uncle in front of me coolly nodded his head in greeting to the owner and the latter got to cooking, no words exchanged. What in the telepathy? Upon seeing my surprised face, the uncle running the stall explained that it was his long-time customer who had been consistently patronising the stall for 30 out of the 50+ years they've been open!
Nothing unexpected here. With only 2 items on the menu — (S$5/S$7/S$9) and Egg Noodles (S$3.50) — both with largely the same ingredients, I went for the smallest portion of Loh Mei at S$5 and added instant noodles for an additional S$1. You can opt for rice at S$0.50 too, like the uncle in queue before me.
The first note of the stew to hit me was its deep, savoury flavour, followed by the pungent wave that tides over with a mellow sweetness. There's a mild spice to it, too. After taking my first sip, I told my dining companion, 'err… IDK what to feel about this.'
Initially, I was expecting the funky taste to be much sharper based on my memory of fermented bean curd, but the umami-ness rounded it out nicely. With every mouthful, it actually started to get more and more… addictive?
I'm not sure where to start with the ingredients because there were just so many swimming in the stew.
All the meats were stewed to perfect tenderness, starting with this piece of pork belly here. The long hours of braising had rendered the fat silky smooth, while the meat itself was melt-in-your-mouth tender.
Based on the picture, it's obvious the chicken wing wasn't very meaty, but the small chunks that slid off the bone were delightfully soft and infused with the rich stew.
Now, I'm not a fan of offal, but I was pleasantly surprised by the gizzard. It was surprisingly tender, and because it didn't carry its usual gaminess, I almost didn't realise it was the one ingredient I was avoiding in the dish, oops.
Pig skin isn't everyone's go-to, but I think this one could convert some sceptics— it was gelatinous, almost buttery, and didn't have any semblance of a porky taste. Instead, it soaked up the flavours of the stew like a sponge.
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Onto the tau pok (fried bean curd puff) and tau kee (bean curd skin), which were my personal favourites of the bowl. As expected, one bite into the tau pok sent the rich, savoury broth rushing into my mouth and engulfing my taste buds with an umami bomb. SUPER SATISFYING.
The kang kong and cuttlefish both had a slightly sweeter profile, which balanced out the whole dish nicely. I especially liked that both had a standout texture — the kang kong was crunchy while the cuttlefish retained a delicate bounciness.
Individually, I can easily say each ingredient was above average. However, the stew clings onto every piece, inevitably melding the flavours together. It was a pleasant stew, yes, but after a while, I must admit it got a little boring when everything started to taste the same.
For my first loh mei experience, I'd say this was an interesting dish with a complex taste profile and a roller coaster of texture that's hard to find in other foods in Singapore. It is an acquired taste but you enjoy fermented goodies, this will probably be right up your alley.
It's crazy to think Loh Mei Specialist is single-handedly keeping the legacy of loh mei alive in Singapore. If you ask me, I'd say you should definitely try this dish at least once.
Expected damage: S$3.50 – S$9 per pax.
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