‘Clothes should last longer than you': Designer Roksanda Ilinčić on how to dress sustainably

Independent

25-02-2025

London-based fashion designer Roksanda Ilinčić discussed her thoughts on the future of fashion and creating timeless garments at Dylon's Sustainable Fashion Future panel, which closed London Fashion Week.
'I come from Serbia and the culture there is quite sustainable,' Ilinčić explains.
'You know, we don't buy many clothes, we don't throw the clothes away. It's very natural that clothes last almost longer than you!'
'When I grew up, we were not an over-consuming society, so somehow it's embedded in me already. So these [sustainable initiatives] are not unusual to me at all, because it's very normal to pass clothes from grandmother to mother to daughter. [Clothes] become an emotional part of you – it's not about wearing it for one season and then checking out.
'That's where the timelessness in my designs comes from.'
The Serbian-born designer established her namesake brand in 2005, and quickly became known for her bold, smart and sculptural approach to womenswear.
Roksanda gowns are worn by everyone from the Princess of Wales to Anne Hathaway and Cate Blanchett, as her sleek yet vibrant designs are fit for royals and Hollywood A-listers alike.
Ilinčić's sustainable ethos is also a key selling factor for her clientele.
Her latest autumn/winter 2025 collection, which debuted at London Fashion Week, was part of a collaboration with Dylon Detergent. The textile dye company explored the concept of 'Rethink New' with Roksanda, and how caring for your clothes properly can help shape a sustainable future of fashion.
'This show was inspired by the late British sculptor Phyllida Barlow, and in the heart of her practice was actually using old, discarded objects – pieces that didn't have any meaning – and giving them a new life,' explains Ilinčić.
'Barlow incorporated lots of recycled wood, MDF, polystyrene, sponges, duct tapes, cardboard [into her artwork]. And I love that idea of looking into something that is very often overlooked – that is left to die – and painting it a new life.'
Ilinčić used Dylon colour dyes in her most recent runway collection, reviving old fabrics from past collections.
Referring to one colour-blocked dress, 'You can see [the dress's] colour blocking, very much part of my design DNA, but it's also combining different textures [such as] the black fabric which was one of my core fabrics that I used to use in almost every season.
'It was a true pleasure to reuse something to come up with something new.'
When asked about how one can start sourcing preloved pieces if they're used to fast fashion purchases, Ilinčić drew attention to the emotional connection people have with clothing.
'I think it's very important to buy pieces that you really love, that you really appreciate. It starts with a conscious purchase of investing in something that is going to have longevity from an emotional perspective, and then, of course, caring about it.
'I still have some dresses, for example, that I took from my mum – and I think making sure that you love [the piece] means that care will come naturally.
'You will make sure that it's in the best condition, taken to the best cleaners [and making sure they] are washed with the best products. So yes, it starts with the emotional connection you have with the piece that you buy. Ask yourself: Why am I buying this?'
How one cares for their clothes in order to increase their longevity is becoming a growing trend in the sustainable fashion space.
'Wash your clothes at a lower temperature,' proclaims fellow panellist and deputy director of the Institute for Positive Fashion, Shailja Dube.
'That was one of the things that was quite interesting when we did our research in our Enabling Garment Longevity report, that actually just going from, say, 40 degrees to 30 degrees makes a big difference, alongside spot cleaning.'
'It's not about changing everything at once,' says Ilinčić, 'it's about small, constant steps.'