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Hindustan Times
17 hours ago
- Hindustan Times
Reframing the courtesan: Umrao Jaan
Watching Muzaffar Ali's Umrao Jaan restored by the National Film Archive of India was like taking a peek at a favourite Banarasi saree, one that has carefully folded in mulmul wrap, still fresh with the memory of when you last wore it. Rekha in and as Umrao Jaan. (HT Photo) A cinematic classic, the film which returned to theatres 44 years after its original release in 1981, lets the contemporary audience revisit the bygone world of tawaifs in its full complexity. Set in Faizabad and Lucknow of the 1840s, this period drama is about a distinct group of independent women performers who ushered in a unique salon culture during the 18 and 19th centuries. Connoisseurs of the fine life and all its trappings including dazzling jewellery and exquisite silks and brocades, they were often highly cultured and more educated than the average woman of their times. Some played an active role in resisting colonial rule and were active during the Uprising of 1857. Umrao Jaan is centred around the life and times of Umrao Jaan Adaa, one such famed tawaif of Lucknow. The screenplay is adapted from Mirza Hadi Ruswa's semi biographical Urdu novel of the same name. The story of Amiran, a young girl who is kidnapped and sold to kotha owner Khanum (Shaukat Kaifi) and who goes on to become a sought after tawaif – a role assayed to perfection by Rekha – recreates the feudal, decadent society of the period. While her talent makes Umrao Jaan a performer who is much sought-after, she is also repeatedly abused as a bazaari aurat, a woman outside the pale of polite society. A reflective Umrao reminiscences about all that's happened to her: the kidnapping that was a result of a criminal neighbour wreaking revenge on her father, arriving at the kotha, her most intense but failed relationship that has left her broken... It tells of how the talented performer and versatile poet was straitjacketed by patriarchy into being a mere object of desire and little else. Rekha and Farooq Sheikh in Umrao Jaan. (HT Photo) What makes Umrao Jaan beautifully distinct is its near tactile quality with the evocation of historical elements like a gentle silken pashmina draped around the neck never poking the skin. It can be interpreted as a romantic film, a musical about a woman's quest for dignity, a tale about heartbreak, all of which are intertwined strands much like Umrao's beautiful silk parandis onscreen. A cinema of loss, longing, and introspection, it has the protagonist asking the big question, 'Who Am I?' even as she faces a string of harsh life situations. The many poignant scenes with Umrao looking into the mirror transforms the mirror itself from mere prop to vital metaphor. Muzaffar Ali's direction presents the historical moment and the unique ethos of the courtesan's world without overtly glamourising or underplaying it (as in the recent HeeraMandi). His approach ensured that Umrao Jaan was part of the rich list of authentic period films of the era like Junoon (1978) and Shatranj Ke Khilari (1977), which also continue to get better with each viewing. Its continued resonance can be attributed to the excellent Urdu dialogues by Shama Zaidi, Javed Siddiqi, and Ali himself, the sublime song lyrics by Shahryr, Subhashini Ali's painstaking costume design that included heirloom jewellery (now back in fashion), and Ali and Bansi Chandragupta's production design. Though Ali, unlike Shyam Benegal or Satyajit Ray (directors of Junoon andShatranj Ki Khiladi, respectively) isn't too invested in actual history, he employs an element of historicity via the fiercely anticolonial rebel-dacoit Faiz Ali (Raj Babbar). Rebel-dacoits were, of course, involved in the resistance against British rule that emerged after the annexation of the Kingdom of Awadh in 1856, which itself fanned the flames of the conflagration that was the Uprising of 1857. Muzaffar Ali, director of Umrao Jaan (Gokul VS/Hindustan Times) Faiz Ali creates a beautiful twist in the storyline towards the end. Unlike the other men in her life, he accepts Umrao for who she is, a powerful woman. In his company, she is at her gutsy best. His brief presence in her life turns her towards reinventing herself as she walks away from the Lucknow kotha. For the contemporary viewer, Umrao's story is 'modern' and the film's logline could read: 'a successful woman, baffled by existential questions, tries to find herself as she navigates the world'. This is not far off the mark. Ali used elements of love and loss but adds the angle of introspection to open the narrative to more than one generation. This means Umrao Jaan transcends the labels of historical drama or tawaif film. The exploration of her search for identity and her evident dignity helps Umrao's character emerge as a sensitive, emotionally mature and creatively accomplished woman who is not just an 'object of desire' like Zohra in Muqqaddar Ka Sikandar (1978) or so many other depictions of tawaifs as mere gaane,bajanewalis. Pertinently, the pejorative term was coined by the colonial administration to maintain their civic tax ledgers and is a perverse interpretation of salon culture. Viewed almost four-and-a-half decades after it was made, Umrao Jaan remains as fresh as ever. Nilosree Biswas is an author, filmmaker, columnist who writes about history, culture, food and cinema of South Asia, Asia and its diaspora.
India.com
3 days ago
- India.com
Best 4 Banarasi Sarees to Shop on Flipkart Freedom Sale (13th August)
Get the grandeur of Banarasi sarees to celebrate your Independence Day on Flipkart Freedom Sale, which begins August 13 onwards. Famous because of their eternal beauty and history, Banarasi sarees combine a rich combination of silk, rich zari work, and festive colors that echo a true Indian combination. These sarees are quite comfortable and equally awesome, whether you pick embroidered silk, sat, or art silk. You guys are all welcome to these wonderful discounts this Freedom Sale; it's high time this symbol of tradition and beauty is in your wardrobe. 1. Pheasant Woven Banarasi Jacquard Art Silk Saree Image source- Order Now The Pheasant Woven Banarasi Jacquard Saree is full of heritage and contemporary charm and combines the comfort of art silk with an artisanal Banarasi pattern. Perfect to wear at festive events. Key Features: Art silk with Banarasi jacquard weave Elegant zari border and pallu Lightweight for easy draping Perfect for weddings and festive wear Soft texture for comfort May require careful ironing to maintain crisp folds. 2. Kalapushpi Embroidered Banarasi Satin Saree Image source- Order Now And when you want to flaunt a saree that turns the spotlight on you, the Kalapushpi Embroidered Banarasi Satin Saree is the star on the red carpet. Rich satin finish along with beautiful Banarasi embroidery makes it ideal to be worn at receptions or evening parties. Key Features: Smooth satin fabric with Banarasi embroidery Glossy finish for a luxe look Lightweight yet structured Suitable for parties and festive nights Detailed pallu and borders The glossy texture can be slippery to drape for beginners. 3. Kanjiqueen Woven Self Design Banarasi Silk Blend Saree Image source- Order Now Elegant and all-purpose, Kanjiqueen Silk Blend saree proposes the classic Banarasi flair in a convenient, shopper-friendly silk blend fabric. The self-design weaving can be described as having a modest touch of elegance, which can be considered the best option to use in both large and small events. Key Features: Silk blend with Banarasi self-design Subtle yet rich appeal Durable and easy to maintain Versatile for formal and festive events Classic Banarasi motifs It may feel slightly heavy for all-day wear in warm climates. 4. Avantika Fashion Printed Temple Border Banarasi Art Silk Cotton Silk Saree Image source- Order Now Ideal for admirers of temple cricket artwork in sarees, the Avantika Fashion Banarasi Saree has an exquisite art silk and cotton silk mix. It has a decorative architectural style that combines both comfort and magnificence, perfect for traditional events and celebrations. Key Features: Blend of art silk and cotton silk Unique printed temple border Soft and breathable fabric Eye-catching festive wear Easy to pair with gold or silver jewelry Colors may appear slightly lighter in natural light than in online images. On this Independence Day, make your Independence Day outfits a story of tradition and culture, and grace with a Banarasi saree in Flipkart Freedom Sale on 13th August. Right up to the stately glamour of Pheasant Jacquard and rich folds of Kanjiqueen Silk Blend and temples-borde sophistication of Avantika Fashion designs, every creation evokes centuries of Indian weaving tradition. With irresistible prices, luxury has become affordable as the sale gives a golden opportunity to possess these masterpieces. Either as a gift or as a purchase with which to treat yourself, a Banarasi saree is not so much a clothing item, but it is an emotion in fabric. Never give up a chance to lose it and shop in elegance and tradition at its best. Disclaimer: At IDPL, we help you stay up-to-date with the latest trends and products. It should not be construed as an endorsement to buy. IDPL may make a very small commission from its sale if one chooses to buy the product from any of the links in this article.
Hans India
6 days ago
- Hans India
Janhvi Kapoor and Sidharth Malhotra Bring Param Sundari Energy to Gaurav Gupta's First Bridal Couture Show
The runway was nothing short of cinematic as the 'Param Sundari' stars walked hand-in-hand, embodying the perfect fusion of timeless heritage and contemporary flair. In a dazzling celebration of love, ritual, and reinvention, Janhvi Kapoor and Sidharth Malhotra turned heads as the showstoppers for Gaurav Gupta's first-ever bridal couture showcase in Mumbai. The designer unveiled his latest masterpiece, Quantum Entanglement, a collection that reimagines the traditional Indian bride and groom for the present and future. Janhvi's bridal moment Having previously walked for Gaurav Gupta at India Couture Week in 2023, Janhvi returned to the runway in a look that was pure modern bridal fantasy. She wore a heavily embroidered lehenga paired with an off-shoulder blouse, topped with a delicate veil edged in intricate embroidery. The ensemble's most striking detail was the iconic Gaurav Gupta infinity logo, meticulously embellished on the lehenga's waistband. Her understated yet luminous glam, paired with contemporary kalires , offered a refreshing twist on bridal tradition, celebrating the elegance and individuality of the modern Indian bride. Sidharth's regal complement Sidharth Malhotra perfectly matched Janhvi's ethereal presence in an ivory sherwani adorned with tonal embroidery. Draped with an ivory shawl, his look exuded royal opulence while maintaining a sleek, contemporary edge—ideal for the modern Indian groom. A couture homecoming Marking his most rooted collection to date, Gupta described Quantum Entanglement as a year in the making—a deliberate creative pause from the Paris Haute Couture calendar to focus on something deeply intimate: a return to home and heritage. Each piece was envisioned as a future heirloom, carrying ancestral memory while reflecting the voice of a new generation. The collection showcased handwoven Banarasi brocades, antique zardosi embroidery, and Chantilly lace sourced from historic French mills, weaving together craft, legacy, and innovation. Star-studded celebration The event drew a glittering crowd of Bollywood celebrities, including Malaika Arora, Khushi Kapoor, Vijay Varma, Disha Patani, Nitanshi Goel, Neha Dhupia, Angad Bedi, Kiran Rao, Anshula Kapoor, and Shriya Saran. The audience witnessed not just a fashion show, but an artistic statement that set the tone for the upcoming wedding season. Global impact, Indian heart Gaurav Gupta has long been celebrated on global platforms, with his creations worn by icons like Beyoncé, Shakira, Cardi B, Rihanna, Halle Berry, Katy Perry, Joey King, and Taraji P. Henson. Yet this showcase reaffirmed that his deepest inspiration still draws from the traditions, rituals, and evolving spirit of India. By blending heritage craftsmanship with imaginative silhouettes, Gupta's first bridal couture show was more than a debut—it was a bridge between the past and the future, between the universal language of love and the infinite possibilities of design.
