At Dubai's Permit Room restaurant, go for the look of the thing

Khaleej Times

30-01-2025

So here's the thing about fusion fare – it makes my hackles rise because of how badly wrong it can go. So when we decided to head to Permit Room in Al Mankhool, I was glad that I hadn't seen the menu.
Upon first look, the vibe was nice and cosy; the tempered green on the walls enconsing small seating areas that yanked you back to memories of home and comfort. It was a bit reminiscent of my childhood, going up to hill stations in the Indian mountains, surrounded by the cold weather and keeping warm and munching on simple yet flavourful food.
It made me wonder if the food would also tick that 'full-of-comfort' box.
We were welcomed by executive chef Harangad, who explained that the homely vibe would extend to the menu, but each dish would come with a twist. One of the first things that were brought out was the Sindhi Tikka (a potato patty in a pool of tangy sauce). So far, so good; it was flaky and crunchy on the outside while being soft on the inside, and basically everything a 'tikki' should be.
Then came the Pav Bhaji Focaccia, which is a fancy take on the street food pau bhaji. Fortunately, the flavours of the bhaji (a homogeneous mix of vegetables) brought the flavour and we could mop it up most efficiently with the bread.
Then came a crispy mushroom momo (dumpling) with fermented chilli bean and Erachi pepper patti samosa.
The thing I'd like to point out here is the presentation, which takes precedence to practicality sometimes; but hey, if you want a little somethin'-somethin' for your Insta-feed, they have you covered with dishes that resemble little works of art.
For instance, the well-done cooker rogan josh (mutton) that came with a Cornish crunchy naan was actually served in a tiny pressure cooker that was opened right in front of us.
Stuffed (and satisfied, I might add) we almost didn't stay for dessert – and that would have just been wrong, for what we were served next was an explosion of chocolate with every mouthful – their signature Ferrero Rocher chocobar – and the dulce de leche tart.
Guess fusion fare isn't too bad after all, at least not at the Permit Room.