Civic pride on show as Pembroke town honours tradition
Paternoster Farm, based in a converted milking shed near Hundleton, has featured in the Good Food Guide for three years running and was recently described by The Sunday Times as 'a rural gem reinventing Welsh dining.' But despite its success and loyal customer base, the restaurant has been told to vacate the site following Pembrokeshire County Council's decision not to renew the family's 10-year tenancy.
The farm and restaurant are run by Michelle Evans, a former solicitor who gave up law to pursue her love of cooking. She built the venture with her family from scratch over the last four years, offering a £58 set seasonal menu based on ingredients sourced from their farm and the local area.
Michelle says the decision came as a shock. 'By the time we were made aware, Paternoster Farm had already been offered to another party,' she said. 'There has been no consultation, no negotiation, just a letter telling us to move on. The hospitality industry is tough enough—we've poured our heart, soul, time and money into this. Now, just as we're getting there, it's being taken away.'
The council has offered the family an alternative tenancy at a larger holding in north Pembrokeshire, but Michelle says it's not a practical or fair solution. 'This isn't just a business. It's our home. It's our children's childhood. We've built something here that's part of the community—guests book their holidays around dining with us, local businesses benefit from the visitors we bring in. The council talks about economic development, but where's the support for something that's clearly working?'
The decision has prompted widespread concern among customers and locals, with Michelle encouraging supporters to write to Pembrokeshire County Council's County Farm Estates department in protest.
In a statement, Pembrokeshire County Council defended its actions, saying: 'Tenancies on our estate are not for life. They are for a fixed term, and tenants are fully aware of that when they sign up. In this case, the tenant has been offered a tenancy at a larger holding.'
But Michelle says that offer does little to reflect the deep roots the family has put down at Paternoster. 'This peninsula means a lot to me. We've created something special here and it's been cut short without any meaningful discussion. Our children are devastated. We're now left to consider whether to fight this or start over somewhere else.'
The restaurant hopes to remain open until autumn 2025, but may close earlier if a new opportunity arises.
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