Why fine jewellery makes for an authentically Arabian brand extension
From marriage to children to milestone birthdays, over the last decade, we have witnessed the lives of the GCC and Levant's It girls-to-influencers evolve in the palm of our hands. And where once the nascent stars of blogs, Instagram and TikTok would convince us of the must-buy power of a new lipstick; today, with established life stories filling social media grids, they are finding success in more personal – and potentially, profitable – commercial ventures.
I was working as a luxury magazine editor at the start of influencer culture in the 2010s – a time when our print advertising revenue became increasingly diverted to 20-something women posting about makeup and handbags for jaw-dropping sums of money. This worked, for a while, until discerning consumers started to question whether luxury goods were devalued by being promoted by someone on the basis of their social media following. We'd hear whispered reports of high net worth clients becoming repelled by brands gifting, and paying, influencers to promote high value products. Likewise, over time the women and men sharing their life stories with us looked for ways to leverage their followings beyond sponsored content. Now in their 30s, 40s and beyond, these first gen influencers – like their audience – desire authenticity in their digital and physical lives. A natural next step is to launch an eponymous product line; some finding global success, such as Huda Beauty, whose foray into strip lashes has become a world-leading cosmetics player, recently returned to full founder ownership. Similarly, Karen Wazen's Gen Z catnip cat-eye sunglasses (as worn by Beyoncé), with fashion jewellery and belts joining the Karen Wazen Collection.
Beyond beauty and accessories, however, it can be challenging to formulate a physical fashion brand robust enough to survive the changing tides of trends. Over the years, we've had Noughties bootcut jeans (incidentally now back in style) designed by Dubai's Rima and Dina Zahran (more from Rima later), sharp-shouldered blazers by Saudi's Alanoud Badr, aka Fozaza, and everything in between. But to truly succeed and gain longevity, an influencer-driven fashion line needs a strong manufacturing partner. Denmark's Rotate Birger Christensen has managed this brilliantly by harnessing the Fashion Week peacocking of its glamorous stylist founders and turning it into accessible partywear, backed by a 150- year-old Copenhagen fashion giant.
While 150-year-old fashion firms have yet to exist, let alone wield manufacturing clout, in the GCC, the region does have incredibly strong heritage in fine jewellery, from the gold souqs to the family firms established during the 20th century. With a wealth of local craftsmanship on our doorstep, local tastemakers have a unique opportunity to parlay their audience connection into lasting jewellery pieces that cement that bond. It may seem contradictory that the transience of digital storytelling should translate effectively into the permanence of fine jewellery, and yet the deep intimacy of sharing your life online weaves into precious mementos with ease. In November 2022, Dubai-based Palestinian fashion designer-cum-influencer Rima Zahran launched her eponymous fine jewellery brand RZ by Rima Zahran with just one design; a heart-shaped locket bracelet that harks back to a piece she had made as a teenager who longed to fit in. Subsequent designs include a key pendant representing those worn by displaced Palestinian refugees as a symbol of the hope to return home.
Of late, international fine jewellery brands have come around to the power of Middle Eastern celebrity. Lebanese singer Nancy Ajram has been the face of Tiffany & Co since 2023, while Cartier dresses Egyptian actor Tara Emad (it has previously worked with Yasmine Sabri, although Sabri has more recently been associated with Chopard). Yet, there is something intensely personal and heartfelt about local creations, such as Zahran's – which are modelled by her and her female family members – that goes beyond a billboard or red carpet association. Zahran has succeeded in translating her personal brand into a physical, precious product that deeply resonates with her online following. She is also able to mine a sweet spot of pricing; the clear blue water between the anonymity of gold souq offerings and international powerhouse marques.
Leveraging local expertise in jewellery creation, and layering on individual heart, regional pride and intimate insights, Middle Eastern fashion influencers transforming digital currency into carats look set to shine brightly.
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