
The risk of death is greater than safari goers would like to believe
My most recent uncomfortably close encounter occurred earlier this year during the height of Kenya's rainy season. Thick grey clouds had gathered over the luxury lodge where I was staying on the edge of the Maasai Mara, accelerating the onset of dusk.
During daylight hours, it's generally considered safe to walk freely between rooms – even in unfenced areas – so with the sun still hovering above the horizon, I assumed a short dash to the communal dining area would be fine.
As I left my fancy villa, furiously scrolling through emails on my phone, I heard a growl far louder than peals of thunder tearing across the plains. Looking up, I saw the back end of a lioness prowling through the undergrowth and I did exactly what I've always been told not to do – I turned around and ran.
In reality, she was probably more terrified of the giant two-legged creature encroaching on her territory – but bumping into a big cat in Africa doesn't always end so well.
On May 30, businessman Bernd Kebbel was mauled to death by a lioness as he stepped out of his tent to use the toilet. He was camping in Namibia's Hoanib Valley, a remote area where desert-adapted lions roam along seasonal riverbeds.
I'd visited the region only two weeks previously and had been thrilled to spot a lion in a region historically ravaged by drought.
According to a survey carried out by Namibia's Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism (MEFT) in 2022/2023, there are less than 100 desert-adapted lions in the country, with numbers fluctuating due to human/wildlife conflict. That population declined further when Charlie, the lioness responsible for the attack, was shot dead by authorities.
What happened to Mr Kebbel was tragic, but it's not the first time that foreigners have had fatal run-ins with animals.
Last year, an American tourist was killed when an elephant charged their vehicle in Zambia's Kafue National Park. A month earlier, a Spanish traveller was trampled to death by a breeding herd when he stepped out of his car to take a photograph in a South African game reserve.
As the safari industry continues to thrive and our appetite for wild encounters grows, our guards have dropped faster than the fences which once enclosed many camps.
I've always been an advocate for opening up corridors, allowing elephant herds to follow traditional migratory routes and predator-prey dynamics to naturally evolve. But living alongside wildlife requires careful and cautious planning and as human populations continue to grow, that relationship hangs in a delicate balance.
The real problem is not 'them' but 'us' and the safari industry is partly to blame.
Cultivated by marketers eager to sell holidays, the romantic, Disneyfied notion of an idyllic wilderness is misguided.
On countless game drives, I've watched vehicles edge uncomfortably close to potentially dangerous animals in the hope of getting a better iPhone photograph. There's also an assumption that booking a room in a five-star lodge gives us carte blanche to wander around freely as we would at home.
Despite repeated warnings from staff, it's all too easy to switch off our senses – ironically detaching ourselves from an environment where we're encouraged to feel immersed.
To their credit, many camps – like Angama Amboseli in Kenya and Dukes in Botswana – are attempting to educate travellers about the true struggles of human and wildlife co-existence.
But due to a combination of complacency and over-confidence, too many have lost a healthy, respectful fear for the wild.
Of course, not every creature in Africa's forests, plains and oceans is actively set on killing humans. Far from it. Most would prefer to be left to continue their lives undisturbed.
But blurring the invisible boundaries which should exist between humans and wild animals can lead to fatal accidents.
Every time I look into a lion's eyes, I shudder. Hearing their guttural roars outside my tent still sends me into shivers. That tingling fear is humbling – a reminder of the awesome wonders existing within our natural world.
Several years ago, I joined a mobile safari through northern Namibia with the late conservationist Garth Owen Smith. One night, we camped on a dry riverbed, close to the Hoanib Valley.
As we fell asleep, listening to lions roar, I asked Owen Smith why nobody had thought to pack a rifle for protection.
'Because we might be tempted to use it,' he replied matter-of-factly.
Years later, his response makes total sense. Far more effective than bullets, fear, respect and caution are the greatest weapons we have to protect ourselves in a world which should always be alluringly but dangerously wild.

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Times
a day ago
- Times
15 of the best safaris in Africa
The African continent offers endless options when it comes to safari breaks. For first timers, South Africa might be the obvious choice. You're guaranteed to spot at least one of the big five — lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino — and there's accommodation to suit all budgets. For more of an off-the-beaten-track experience, try Zambia, where walking safaris completely immerse you in the wild. Or there's Rwanda and Mozambique, both of which have become known for their conservation efforts in recent years. Every destination is different though, and it's worth speaking to your travel operator about what to expect before you book. Meanwhile, here are some of the best safari spots to start your research. This article contains affiliate links, which may earn us revenue On the border of Rwanda and Tanzania, Akagera National Park is something of a conservation success story. Since 2010, the area has been restored from its previously degraded state and thousands of animals now inhabit the park, including reintroduced lions and black rhinos. Akagera is a patchwork of wetlands, lakes, savannas and woodlands — a geographically beautiful park that's full of fascinating wildlife, including the very rare shoebill stork. The 60-room Mantis Akagera Game Lodge is a four-star, mid-range hotel in the national park, overlooking Lake Ihema. In the centre of Mozambique, Gorongosa National Park — once a safari destination favoured by the rich and famous — fell off the tourism radar during the country's civil war, which ended in 1992. A 20-year-old conservation and community development project has reintroduced tourism alongside a slew of other endeavours, from multiple scientific research studies to other income generators such as coffee farming. Visiting Gorongosa is a very cool opportunity to discover a safari destination in development (rehabituating animals, for example), see how a place can recover, and explore the breadth of possibilities within a national park. Muzimu Lodge is a new addition to the park, a tented camp (not suitable for under 12s) on the banks of the Mussicadzi River. • Read our full guide to the world's best adventure holidays This inactive, ancient caldera is — at 2,000 feet deep and spanning 100 square miles in area — one of the world's most dramatic landscapes for viewing wildlife. There are elephants, critically endangered black rhinos, lions and flocks of flamingos. It's not just safaris that you can do in and around the crater, but also hikes and visits to nearby Masai villages. The crater does get crowded, especially at the peak of the dry season from June to September. Wetter weather during the low season means smaller crowds and better rates, though of course conditions are not as favourable. Neptune Ngorongoro Luxury Lodge is a smart, comfortable hotel with 20 private log cabins, a pool and a spa — and it's just minutes away from the entrance gate of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. • Best safari camps and lodges in TanzaniaIn the southwest of Uganda, Queen Elizabeth National Park is made up of savannas, forests and lakes, and it holds a diverse range of wildlife from elephants to chimpanzees. It's perhaps best known for its lions that have an unusual penchant for climbing trees, but it's also a great place for boat trips and birding. Given its proximity to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, it's an excellent safari partner to mountain gorilla trekking (though you'll need to sort a permit for that well in advance). Buffalo Safari Lodge, with beautiful views and a close location to the park entrance, is a great option for Queen Elizabeth visitors. South Luangwa's wildlife viewing is among the best in Africa, particularly for big cats and elephants. You can spot rare subspecies unique to the area, such as Thornicroft's giraffes, too. The park — and Zambia generally — is renowned for walking safaris. So, if you're keen to explore the bush on foot, whether just for the day or on an epic fly-camping adventure, this is the place for you. The Luangwa River attracts large numbers of animals during the dry season, the most popular time to visit. Be aware that many lodges close for the wettest months, between December and March. A popular little spot just outside South Luangwa National Park, Flatdogs Camp used to be a backpackers' base and retains a relaxed, friendly vibe. In southern Tanzania, Nyerere is the country's largest national park — and one of its newest. It was formerly the northern section of the massive Selous Game Reserve, until 2019 when the area was designated a national park. The best wildlife viewing is around the Rufiji River — leisurely boat safaris are a highlight — and the park has populations of lions, elephants, hippos, critically endangered black rhinos and wild dogs. As an added bonus, Nyerere — and the south of Tanzania generally — receives a mere fraction of the tourists who visit the northern parks. Serena Mivumo River Lodge sits on the banks of the Rufiji, with 12 elevated chalets overlooking the the far northeast of South Africa, the Kruger is the most popular safari destination of them all. In addition to the wildlife viewing being superb — especially for leopards, which tend to be extraordinarily nonchalant around vehicles — it's got great tourism infrastructure, including good roads for self-driving safaris. There are basic self-catering facilities or super-luxury lodges in the Kruger's private reserves, so something for most budgets. It can be very busy, but travelling in shoulder or low seasons will help, as might venturing to the less-visited north of the park, where there are great walking trails, big baobabs, and fever tree forests. Among the sleekest luxury lodges on the continent, Singita Lebombo is for the stylish safari-goer. There are 15 suites overlooking the bush or river. The food and wine offerings are excellent, too. • Where should I go in South Africa?• Best safaris in South Africa While the density of its wildlife is much lower than other parts of Africa, Namibia makes up for it with its breathtaking desert landscapes. In the north of the country, Etosha National Park is its most popular safari destination. The best time to visit is during the dry months when animals gather at the water: there are lots of elephants, plus giraffes and lions — and it's possible to see black rhinos, too. The Etosha Pan, the focal point of the park, is a salt pan where mammals and birds such as flamingos gather. You can drive up from the capital Windhoek, or take a scenic light aircraft flight — either option reveals some of Namibia's huge, open landscapes. On the edge of Etosha National Park, Ongava Tented Camp is in a private reserve, where you can go on bush walks and after-dark game vast plains of the Serengeti, in northern Tanzania, star in nature documentaries for good reason. Not only is it a striking landscape, but it's home to incredible wildlife, most of which is extremely habituated to tourists. Watch cheetahs scan for prey from atop a termite mound, or park up next to a leopard chowing its kill in a tree. The Great Migration wildebeest herds stop to graze and give birth to their young in the south of the park from around January to March; from June, you can see them crossing the river as they move between the Serengeti and Kenya's Masai Mara on their cyclical journey. In the south of the park, Elewana Serengeti Pioneer Camp has glorious views across the plains. The 12 tents each have private decks and side panels that can be rolled up to take in the central Kenya, the Laikipia plateau is a less-visited alternative to the Masai Mara, with a different appeal. The landscape is open and rolling, with views of Mount Kenya's jagged peaks. The various reserves in this area are home to the big five — including many black rhinos and the last two northern white rhinos, which live in Ol Pejeta Conservancy. The region also has wild dogs and rare subspecies such as the reticulated giraffe and Grevy's zebra. A mid-range option in Ol Pejeta, Sweetwaters Serena Camp is a solid choice for travellers looking for comfort without blowing the bank. • The best Kenyan safaris Close to the border with Botswana, Madikwe is a scenic reserve, with rolling hills and rust-orange sand. It's home to the big five and other animals, such as wild dogs. Madikwe is a great option for families, as it's malaria-free and many of the properties are geared to hosting children, with fun activities and private villas. You can also drive from Johannesburg, which cuts down on the expense of light aircraft flights. Madikwe Safari Lodge is a luxury option in the reserve, with 20 suites (including some family suites with bunkbeds) and a three-bedroom National Park is one of Zimbabwe's best and most popular safari destinations, with a diverse range of wildlife. Animals you might spot here include lions, wild dogs, leopards and cheetahs; Hwange is also home to one of Africa's largest elephant populations. In private concessions, you can take walking safaris in addition to game drives. And the park benefits from Zimbabwe's famously excellent guides (due to a rigorous qualification programme). Hwange is easily combined with Victoria Falls, which is only around two to three hours away by road. In a private concession, the simple but comfy nine-tent Wilderness Davison's camp is set by a waterhole often visited by On the banks of the Zambezi River, Mana Pools feels wilder and quieter than most safari destinations in Southern Africa. The name means 'four' in Shona, referring to the four main pools that make up the park. As well as lions and wild dogs, Mana Pools is known for elephants that have learned to stand on their hindlegs to reach higher branches. Explore the river by canoe, or take a bush walk during the dry season (in the wettest months, December to March, parts of the park are inaccessible and lots of properties close). With ten tented suites, set in a private reserve, Wilderness Ruckomechi gives guests a sense of exclusivity and remoteness. Don't miss the opportunity to sleep under the stars. The Masai Mara in southwest Kenya is famous for the beauty of its rolling savanna grasslands, the density of its wildlife populations, and, between July and October, the great wildebeest herds that thunder across the Mara River. Big cats — lions, cheetahs and leopards — are prolific. Wildlife is habituated and easy to find. The key to enjoying your time in the Mara is avoiding the crowds — that means finding a great guide or paying a little extra to stay in one of the private community-run conservancies around the edges of the national park. The high-end Cottar's 1920s Camp is in a private conservancy — great for uncrowded wildlife sightings — and is a long-established camp in the Mara. • The best time to visit Kenya The Okavango Delta is one of the most beautiful and wildlife-rich areas in Africa. Located in northern Botswana, it is fed by floodwaters from Angola between May and October. This is the time when visitors can explore the reed-lined waterways by mokoro — a traditional canoe — which is a particularly special experience. There are a number of reserves in the delta and tourism is controlled so it feels wild and remote; it's also the most expensive place to go on safari. But the wildlife viewing is exceptional: think buffalo-hunting lions, wild dogs sprinting through the bush, hippos cooling off in the water, elephants browsing acacias. And it's a great birding destination. Vumbura Plains is one of the fanciest camps in the delta and in a really good spot for wildlife sightings, particularly big cats. • Best safari camps and lodges in Botswana In most of southern and eastern Africa, the dry season runs from June to October. The advantage of the dry season is that wildlife tends to congregate around waterholes and the foliage is sparser, making animals easier to see. This is typically considered the best time to travel. But the rainy season can be better for landscape photography and birding (as migratory birds are in the south), as well as it being a quieter and generally cheaper time to travel. Pack comfortable clothes in relatively neutral shades (very bright colours can frighten animals) and layers — mornings and evenings can be chilly enough for a hat and gloves, but by 10am, it'll be T-shirt weather. Bring sturdy, closed-toe footwear if you'll be walking, a hat, sunglasses and suncream. Photographers will want their longest lenses, but plenty of people do fine with their smartphones. Binoculars are very useful, although guides often have pairs to share. A good guide will definitely enhance your safari experience — and in many places, you need them. Places like Kruger are great for self-driving (even without a 4×4) and the wildlife is prolific enough to find without a professional. But for walking or night driving, you will always need a qualified guide. Additional reporting by Qin Xie


Daily Mail
a day ago
- Daily Mail
How selfie-hunting influencers are 'ruining' safaris
Influencers desperate to see animals are turning Africa's tranquil wilderness into a hotspot for over-tourism - with 4x4 traffic jams and drones putting off genuine nature enthusiasts. Once considered a 'once in a lifetime' holiday that was firmly the preserve of the middle and upper classes, a trip to a game reserve has become increasingly mass market in recent years. Just as British beauty spots, including Cotswolds villages and Cornish beaches, have been besieged by selfie stick-wielding crowds on the hunt for 'content', it seems the TikTok tourist is now equally at home on Africa's remote plains. Destinations such as Kenya's Masai Mara - home to almost 90 species of mammals, Tanzania's Serengeti, and South Africa 's Kruger National Park have all seen a spike in tourism in recent years. Fed-up wildlife fans who've spent their hard-earned cash to see Mother Nature's most majestic animals - including giraffes, elephants, and wildebeest - say they now often have to do battle with Instagrammers posing as they try to catch a glimpse of what they've paid thousands to see. On social media, there are insights into just how saturated the safari market has become, with images and videos showing 4x4s sat bumper-to-bumper on dirt track roads at dawn in a bid to catch animals in the best light of the day. Pumping out petrol fumes, inside, they're crammed with tourists who'll apparently stop at nothing to get the perfect shot or footage of animals in their natural habitat. One particularly disturbing clip shows a lion walking along a rust-coloured road, with vehicles - full of tourists - surrounding the animal as they try and get a photo or footage. Alongside sophisticated camera and smartphone equipment, the arrival of drones as as an amateur videographer's best friend has ensured that whirring black dots in the arching blue skies above rolling savanna grasslands are now also occasionally seen. While many safari destinations have introduced strict regulations on using the radio controlled flying recording devices, permission can be sought in advance to use them in certain circumstances. Those who go rogue face fines, confiscation, and legal action - but in some destinations, including the Serengeti, tourists have spotted them being used by visitors. One British traveler, who wished to remain anonymous, told the Daily Mail her trip to the famous Tanzanian reserve had been marred by visitors who'd set off small drone devices from the vehicles they were in, and would then ask their guide to go and retrieve them. Other pitfalls? Four-wheel drive vehicles are often connected by radio, so when there's a sight to be seen, many of them flock to the same place, with big jams common as tourists scramble to get the best view. One TikTok user, @zozovdw, posted footage of dozens of Land Rovers lined up watching a hunt between lions and buffaloes. Another suggested that going on a modern safari holiday was mostly about sitting in a 4WD vehicle being bumped over rough roads. British travel blogger, Charlie Hill, warned about the realities of an animal-watching trip, telling TikTok followers: 'They don't tell you this before you go on safari…20 per cent "Wow, is that a lion?!", 80 per cent "My spine just did a somersault on this bumpy track". 'Here's the honest truth about safari life: yes, the wildlife moments are unreal, but in between? You'll be bouncing around in a 4x4 for hours, dust in your teeth and a zebra-shaped bruise forming on your backside.' He did add that the adventure was 'still 100 per cent worth it'. A United Nations Tourism (UNWTO) report earlier this year found that visitor numbers to African destinations were up by 13.5 per cent year-on-year, with many of the country's safari destinations contributing to the rising tourism figures. Behind the Middle East, Africa is the second fastest-growing tourist region globally, with safari destinations including Kenya, Tanzania, Zambia, Rwanda, and Botswana amongst the destinations welcoming more tourists. The bucket list element has also swelled numbers, with tourists seeing the idea of a safari as a 'final frontier' if they've already explored many of the world's most famous sights. Chinese tourists are signing up for wildlife spotting trips in their droves. According to the Global Times, visitors to Africa from China during the summer of 2024 were up 40 per cent on 2023. Many African destinations have also relaxed visa rules in recent years, making it easier for tourists to plan a trip. For example, Kenya scrapped tourist visas in January 2023, instead asking potential visitors to apply online for more accessible travel permits. And the country's spectacular migrations bring in thousands of visitors, because there's more chance of spotting wildlife as animals - including wildebeest, zebras and hippos - rest en route to their seasonal destinations. How to sidestep the crowds and book a safari that doesn't come with a side portion of frustration? Calvin Cottar, is co-owner of Cottar's Safaris, which operates in the private Olderkesi Conservancy, bordering the Maasai Mara... but crucially with no other camps within its boundaries. He tells the Daily Mail that there's still plenty of ways to find a safari destination with plenty of solitude. He said: 'The antidote is choosing lodges with access to controlled conservation areas – whether national parks, community conservancies or private reserves. 'Strict rules limit vehicle density (for example, no more than one vehicle per 750 acres), cap numbers at sightings (often no more than five vehicles) and, in busier areas, set time limits at sightings.' Ensuring the company you book with has 'well-trained and fairly paid guides - so they do not rely on tips for sightings' will also enhance your experience, the company co-owner, whose family have been running safaris for more than a 100 years, adds. 'Be careful of companies or guides promising to show you every iconic megafauna in two hours, a safari should be slow and reflective; if you give Africa your patience, it will reward you with moments you will never forget – often when you least expect them. Off-peak is best@ Migration season can be one of the busiest times for tourism, but choose an off-peak period and you'll find rich rewards... with fewer tourists 'There are still places far removed from mass tourism, particularly private conservancies and less-visited parks, and the best time to visit depends on your priorities.' Avoiding peak season too, which falls typically between June to September in popular East African destinations, will ensure lesser crowds. When should you go? Says Cottar: 'There is much more to Kenya than the Great Migration: visit in the green season for lush landscapes and fewer visitors, or in the dry season for easier game viewing – both falling outside the peak migration months.'


The Sun
2 days ago
- The Sun
Fears for playful dolphin who DANCED with family in incredible video at popular UK beach after it's ‘hit by a boat'
FEARS have been raised for a dolphin that was spotted playing happily with a family in the water before it was found injured by a boat. Lynda MacDonald, 50, and her partner, son and his girlfriend, set out for their 6am morning swim at Lyme Bay, Dorset on August 3 when they encountered the friendly dolphin. 4 4 4 Just moments after leaping into the chilly water the family encountered a curios bottlenose dolphin. The playful dolphin dances across the water towards the astonished family before swimming on its back and asking for belly rubs. Sadly, the dolphin seen in the footage has since been found injured by a boat in the Lyme Bay area. Wildlife experts have warned swimmers to avoid the creatures and fear for other dolphins around the UK's coast. Lynda, who works in advertising, said about her encounter: "Out of nowhere, the dolphin immediately approached us and wanted to join in on the action. "It was friendly and playful. It even started guiding members of our group along the water with its beak. "It was not distressed by our presence and was very confident around us. "I've seen a dolphin before, but this is something I'll remember forever." Lynda described the encounter as "magical" adding how glad she was to have caught it on camera. Dolphins appear in UK waters fairly regularly, according to the Dorset Wildlife Trust there are 28 species of whales, dolphins and porpoises in British coastal waters. Dolphins surround kayakers off coast of Scots beauty spot The creatures are curios and playful and will approach boats and even sometimes come close to swimmers. But marine experts have asked tourists to stay away from the playful animals, raising concerns for the safety of the sea creatures. Touching the animals can leave them vulnerable to predators according to experts. Swimmers have also been warned away from feeding dolphins any animal food, which may kill them. Lynda said about her encounter: "You can hear the footage audio that the dolphin was happy to interact with us. "But we were mindful; we played for five minutes and then let it go on its way." The UK is thought to have a population of around 700 coastal bottlenose dolphins. The species is renowned for being sociable and playful, often interacting with vessels. They are regularly seen off the coast of the UK and spend a large amount of time in coastal waters. Bottlenose dolphins are commonly seen in Moray Firth, Scotland, Cardigan Bay, Wales, and off the coasts of Cornwall and Northumberland. Playing with dolphins could stress the animals and disrupt their behaviour, migration and feeding. Dolphins, along with whales and other porpoises, are protected by law under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981. Approaching or disturbing a dolphin can result in up to six months in prison as well as an unlimited fine.