Inside Bowie, the new Montreal speakeasy hidden in Old Montreal

Time Out

21-05-2025

This new exclusive resto-bar doesn't allow cameras, but I got in. Here's what I experienced—photos included.
Sometimes when I'm comfortably seated in a dining room, alternating between watching the other guests (trying to decipher their emotions), admiring the décor, and observing the staff at work while browsing my favourite reading material (the menu!), I wonder just how much the setting and atmosphere can influence the outcome of an evening.
The décor, the lighting, the music, the staff's energy and the atmosphere created by the clientele—all of these elements may seem secondary compared to the quality of the food.
But if you consider that each guest will likely spend more than half their time taking in their surroundings, it's clear that creating an epic atmosphere that aligns with the restaurant's concept is essential.
(Coincidentally or not, the last time I asked myself the same question was after leaving Dorsia last summer, Bowie's impressive sister project from the WITH group: Ayla, Ryu, Livia).
Heading downstairs to Bowie, tucked away below Dorsia in Old Montreal, I realised immediately that if the team is trying to raise Montreal's standards of elegance, refinement, service, and guest experience at Dorsia, then this new speakeasy is just as committed to the cause.
Pushing the envelope even further by opening only by reservation, enforcing a strict dress code, and banning all cameras, the VIP card is being played loud and clear at Bowie.
Whether you're stopping in for an early evening cocktail, settling in for a full meal featuring chef Miles Pundsack-Poe's Asian-inspired cuisine, or wrapping up your night in style with bottle service and guest DJs, Bowie has nailed the art of offering a bespoke experience as soon as you walk through the door.
Before diving into the menu (does it live up to the setting?), it's worth making a stop at the cocktail list, created by Louis-Philippe Laforest.
Each drink is the result of infusions, evaporations, percolations, dry blends and careful layering. It's a deeply personal and often daring menu, but one that's impeccably executed and leaves little room for interpretation.
I'm talking about cocktails like the Smalltown Boy (Johnnie Walker Black Label, dry Zérès, banana, Campari, Laphroaig 10 Year, molé); Golden Years (Reposado tequila, bianco amaro, Lillet Blanc, coffee, palo santo, coconut oil infusion); Diana's (Brown butter Belvedere vodka, champagne, white peach, jasmine green tea, crème de cassis) and Babylon Club (London Dry gin, dry vermouth, chrysanthemum, raspberry, lemon).
There's also a handful of martini riffs, like the Cosmo Solway which stood out for me thanks to its perfect balance of Aupale vodka, mandarin liqueur, morello cherry, vanilla, and cherry blossom.
But the star of the evening was a brilliant twist on the classic gimlet, blending sea buckthorn with kalamansi gin. Wow!
Chef Pundsack-Poe naturally leaned into Asian influences for the food, unsurprising for someone who led Chinese fine dining restaurant Ensue to 19th place on Asia's 50 Best Restaurants in 2022, following a few years at California's now-closed Michelin three-star Meadowood.
Between dumplings, shrimp toast, cucumber salad, beef short rib, and a whole deep-fried fish in sweet chili sauce, you'll also find a cheeseburger slider, beef tartare, and fries with Espelette mayo (with the option to top them with fresh truffle).
Unlike the drinks, where every sip brought new surprises and had me coming back for more, the food was a more uneven experience—a culinary score that alternated between standout highlights and duller, less defined moments.
I craved more bold flavours, more crisp, expertly executed fried items like the fried chicken sandwich. More freshness and acidity, like the cucumber salad with wood ear mushrooms, soy sauce, and chili oil. And more memorable moments like the spectacular short rib glazed with sticky, umami-rich Chinese BBQ sauce.
And it's in between these high notes that the supporting cast (the setting, the drinks, the atmosphere) picked up the slack for less successful dishes: a tuna tataki lacking seasoning, an overly oily shrimp toast, or otherwise promising steamed dumplings held back by a bland, watery sauce.
With a mix of culinary highs and lows, I suggest ending things on a dazzling note that left me grinning: the mochi doughnuts with apple butter.
⭐️⭐️½
Atmosphere:
The vibe evolves as the night goes on, with a DJ setting up around 10 p.m. The acoustics at Bowie deserve praise: despite the lively energy, you can still hear each other speak.
What to eat:
Small plates perfect for sharing throughout the night (dumplings, beef tartare, tuna tataki, fries), plus heartier options (whole fried fish, Wagyu ribeye, lobster roll). Full kitchen service until 10 p.m., with a reduced menu available until 2 a.m.
What to drink:
Inventive, carefully crafted cocktails made to be savoured. A few whites and reds are also available by the glass to satisfy any mood. Cocktails are served at the table well into the night, even during bottle service.