6 of Mexico's best festivals
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Day of the Dead may be Mexico's most famous festival, but it's just one of 5,000 that take place in the country each year. These celebrations blend the culture of pre-Hispanic Mesoamerica with rituals brought by their Catholic colonisers: some are devoted to God, others to the devil; some celebrate life, others death. Processions form to mark everything from saints to particular professions, and no event is too small — even a girl's quinceañera, or 15th birthday party, might turn a town on its head. Here's our pick of the festivals worth travelling for.
For weeks leading up to Day of the Dead, traditionally celebrated on 1 and 2 November, the walls of Oaxaca are flushed bright orange with freshly cut marigolds — fixed to doors, hung in garlands or, in some cases, cloaking entire buildings. According to legend, the flowers act as guides to souls revisiting the land of the living, where they're greeted by raucous street parties, decorated ofrenda (altars), painted faces and skeletal puppet parades. Join in by adding a picture of a lost loved one to a communal ofrenda and, typically, a sweet treat or drink they can enjoy on their journey home. Half an hour south of the state capital, you'll find the candlelit cemeteries of Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán — one of several surrounding settlements that hosts its own festivities.
Celebrations of the Virgin of Guadalupe, Mexico's patron saint — as she appeared to Juan Diego, the first Indigenous person of the Americas to be canonised — begin on 12 December. Across the country, crowds carry flower-wrapped representations of the Holy Virgin and worshippers don colourful headdresses to perform the Dance of the Matachines in her honour, with live music and fireworks to follow. Morelia, the capital of the central state of Michoacán, has the most fervent festivities — each year, around 150,000 pilgrims take part in a procession towards the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, its interior gleaming with gold.
Guelaguetza (meaning 'offering') is a 3,000-year-old festival that traditionally honoured the Zapotec goddess of agriculture but now serves as a celebration of the state's dazzlingly diverse Indigenous culture. Oaxaca's 16 Indigenous groups are represented, with dancers, musicians and costumed carousers from each group travelling to the state capital for the last two Mondays of July. Their processions mainly take place in an open-air amphitheatre built into the Cerro del Fortín hilltop, for which tickets are required — but the festive spirit tends to spill over into city streets.
This annual festival, held in January, is inscribed on UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage List and is the chief claim to fame of this Chiapas highlands town. Honouring three Catholic saints (Saint Anthony Abbot, Our Lord of Esquipulas and Saint Sebastian), it sees parachico dancers wearing painted masks spinning amid crowds donned in folkloric costumes. Participants wear designs specific to their place of origin, with men parading in neon-woven serapes (traditional shawls) and women in meticulously embroidered pluming skirts. Soundtracked by beating drums and children's chattering maracas, the procession makes its way towards the grand doors of the Cathedral of Santo Domingo de Guzmán for a dedicated mass.
This Pacific Coast city's multi-day Carnaval celebrations, held in the lead-up to Lent, has the same roots as its famous counterparts in Brazil and the Caribbean — but today, Mazatlán's iteration is mostly an excuse for a city-wide party. Neon lights shine from the sides of grand parade floats and dancers wearing bedazzled bikinis and feathered headdresses twirl to pounding tunes late into the night. The daytime procession tends to be calmer and more family-friendly, with fairground rides and the coronation of the Carnaval King and Queen.
Among the few festivals tagged neither to pre-Hispanic ritual nor the Catholic calendar, this celebration of Spanish-language arts takes place in the central Mexican city of Guanajuato each autumn. Named after the Spaniard Miguel de Cervantes, author of Don Quixote, its packed programme of live events includes performances of traditional Mexican folkloric ballet in the central hub Plaza de la Paz, music in repurposed baroque churches and pop-up nightclubs in subterranean catacombs.
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9 Rome restaurants locals swear by
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). In Rome, where every other restaurant promises a 'true' carbonara or 'classic' pizza, the pursuit of authenticity can feel elusive. Travellers often stay within the confines of the historical centre and rely on the greatest hits served in well-worn trattorias offering English-language menus. But do as the locals do and seek out culinary quality in Rome's quieter corners and you'll really get a flavour of the city. From contemporary trattorias to wine kiosks, here are nine of the best places to eat in Rome — trusted spots that locals return to time after time. Best for: classic dishes with modern flairSince opening in 2017, Santo Palato has carved out a reputation as one of the capital's most exciting trattorias — a place where Roman classics are revered alongside inventive dishes. In March, it changed location from a small venue in San Giovanni to a larger space in Porta Metronia, unveiling a sharper, more design-forward look with bright orange surfaces, sleek pendant lighting and a glass-walled kitchen. But despite the contemporary look, the spirit of the place remains the same. Wood chairs and comfy tables lend it a cosy, old-school feel, while the menu leans heavily on the Roman canon. Start with one of the best iterations of trippa alla romana in town — Rome-style tripe braised in a rich tomato sauce with pecorino — and don't miss the decadent house carbonara. The daily specials are always worth a glance, too, with dishes such as chitarra pasta with a duck ragu and fried veal brain with a punchy mullet-liver mayo. Best for: small platesTucked down a quiet backstreet in Trastevere, this small enoteca (wine bar) offers a low-lit, intimate setting behind hefty double doors marked with large letters 'VI' and 'NO'— 'vino'. Inside, just 16 guests get to try plenty of it, sitting at bar-height tables or at the counter, while a carefully curated collection of vinyl plays out softly. The restaurant's loyal regulars pop in to greet the young chef Mirko Pelosi at the bar before settling in for dinner. Pelosi's experiences in Europe's top Michelin-starred and avant-garde restaurants have been translated into a menu of inventive small plates and a natural-leaning wine list. While the dishes have a clear grounding in Italian cuisine, they do stray beyond its confines. A Japanese-inspired raw tuna dish, for example, sees sashimi slices draped over a vignerola — a Roman spring veggie stew — while a lamb ragu is accompanied by thick Middle Eastern grilled pitas. And don't miss the smoked bottarga (cured fish roe), which is sliced and topped with pickled raw almonds. Best for: cool ambianceFor many, Rome conjures images of rustic trattorias rather than the minimalist venues tipped for Michelin stars. But the latter is exactly the offering at this spot next to the Pantheon. Expect moody corridors and spotlit chefs working behind red, semi-translucent curtains in what is one of the city's most exciting kitchens. Here, the menu combines a few mainstays — including the oxtail terrine or green spaghetti — with additional specials taking in the likes of eel and black garlic risotto and a glorious artichoke katsu sando. With a list of more than 90 wines, all available by the glass and mostly Italian, but with a handful of international picks, the restaurant is a real draw for discerning drinkers. For a more relaxed setting, head to Retrovino, the venue's wine bar, tucked out the back. Sit at the counter or linger streetside, glass in hand — with dishes from the main restaurant also available to order there, too. Best for: a casual drinkLocated next to a faded funfair, Fischio is a kiosk-style bar popular for its laid-back atmosphere. Part pavement hangout, part neighbourhood secret, it serves some of the best coffee in the city, thanks in part to its recent hire: the star barista from nearby LOVE, a bakery renowned city-wide for its coffee and pastries. Come late afternoon, the mood at Fischio shifts to a la dolce vita vibe. With a tight, well thought-through wine list and a front-row view of local life drifting past, it's an ideal spot for a glass of sparkling natural wine and a bit of people-watching as the Roman evening sets in. Best for: slices of pizzaThere's no shortage of tourists lining up for pizza by the slice in Rome — and luckily, the city has more than enough quality spots to go round. Skip the queues at the famous Forno Roscioli, and head instead to Circo Massimo to try Fratelli Trecca's thinner, crispier, but equally satisfying slices, with standouts including the rossa con l'erbetta (marinara with parsley sauce) or the cipolle e cipolle, a white base topped with two types of thinly sliced onions, roasted until just shy of caramelised. Come the lunch or dinner rush, the menu expands to include classic Italian charcuterie toppings or other pizza specials like beef tongue with salsa verde or the rustic coppa di testa (pig's head brawn) with chicory. At €2.50 (£2) a slice, it's an affordable, flavour-packed bite that pairs nicely with a pint of the Puglian beer, Raffo, that's served on tap or a glass of natural wine. Best for: outdoor seatingOnce a humble, working-class neighbourhood, Pigneto has become the go-to for weekend drinks among young Romans seeking a break from the hurly-burly of more established areas like Trastevere. At its heart is Necci, a laid-back bar-cafe that's ideal for an al fresco aperitivo. In its gravel-strewn garden with walls draped in jasmine, Necci serves a solid wine list, house cocktails and a menu that blends Italian staples like bucatini all'amatriciana (a simple pork and tomato pasta dish) with international comfort food like chicken schnitzel and forest berry cheesecakes. On sunny Sundays, it's a welcome refuge for a slow brunch — cappuccinos sipped beneath its mature trees are paired with cornetti pastries oozing with apricot jam or pear and chocolate chip almond cakes. Best for: local cheeseJust at the entrance to the Jewish Quarter, this shrine to cheese is home to just few small tables facing a long glass counter stacked high with produce. There are golden shards of Parmigiano Reggiano, wheels of Alpine tommes and lesser-known regional treats including blu dolce di capra — a blue goat's cheese with a sweet creaminess and a tangy bite. Browse from a shelved wall of wine, with plenty of low-intervention varieties and ask the staff to put an accompanying cheeseboard together for you. Simply tell them how much cheese you're after — 200g, 300g or more — and they'll build a board with different options to suit your tastes, and your chosen wine. If looking for a souvenir to take home, a wedge of their well-aged pecorino Romano is the perfect choice. Best for: food market haulJust a few blocks north of the Vatican, at the city's largest and most exciting food market you'll find locals doing their shopping, rather than tourists seeking a photo op. This deeply Roman neighbourhood bazaar has stalls that generally sell ingredients rather than snacks — everything from neatly packaged handmade ravioli and tubs of fresh ricotta to ropes of plaited garlic strung above parades of picky shoppers. One exception would be Il Pescatorio, an unassuming seafood stall by the Via Andrea Doria exit, where you can settle at a bar stool and pick from paper plates piled high with zingy octopus salads, swordfish parmigiana di melanzane and tuna sashimi. Look out for the maretozzos, Il Pescatorio's seafood spin on Rome's famous whipped cream-filled bun maritozzo. Best for: gelato and coffeeOtaleg has long been celebrated for its wildly inventive gelato — the kind that blends seasonal ingredients with a mad genius chef's precision. While most come for a scoop, Otaleg's secret is behind the coffee counter. At the Monteverde branch, award-winning barista Gianni Olimpo — crowned Italy's best in 2022 and 2023 — serves deeply aromatic brews made with meticulously sourced beans. Whether it's a pour-over, Chemex or a textbook espresso, every cup is crafted with care. Pair the perfectly foamed cappuccino with a decadent zabaione-filled cornetto for a morning ritual that rivals any in the city. This Relais & Châteaux hotel, a few steps away from Piazza del Popolo, is housed in a renovated 17th-century building that was once an educational facility for orphaned girls. Rooms are decorated in colourful velvets and contemporary Italian furniture, while the hotel's public spaces carry modern artworks by the likes of Andy Warhol and sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro. But the food offerings are the showstopper. The breakfast spread includes generous charcuterie — soft morsels of mortadella and indulgently fatty prosciutto — alongside a pastry table piled with Italian staples such as cream-filled maritozzi. San Baylon, the hotel's fine dining restaurant, helmed by chef Christian Spalvieri and featured in the Michelin Guide, offers a refined take on Italian cuisine with a focus on produce — including olive oil pressed from Palazzo Ripetta's own groves in the volcanic Alban Hills southeast of Rome. There's also the chance to dine in the hotel's lush garden piazzetta and enjoy an aperitivo with a view over Rome's homes and domes at the rooftop bar, Etere. Double rooms from €550 (£463) B&B. To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
National Geographic
15 hours ago
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Where to eat in Rome like a local
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). In Rome, where every other restaurant promises a 'true' carbonara or 'classic' pizza, the pursuit of authenticity can feel elusive. Travellers often stay within the confines of the historical centre and rely on the greatest hits served in well-worn trattorias offering English-language menus. But do as the locals do and seek out culinary quality in Rome's quieter corners and you'll really get a flavour of the city. From contemporary trattorias to wine kiosks, here are nine of the best places to eat in Rome — trusted spots that locals return to time after time. Duck ragù clings to strands of chitarra pasta in this deeply flavourful primo at Santo Palato. Photograph by Berkok Yüksel Santo Palato's tiramisu comes unapologetically tall, with generous layers of rich cream. Photograph by Berkok Yüksel Santo Palato Best for: classic dishes with modern flair Since opening in 2017, Santo Palato has carved out a reputation as one of the capital's most exciting trattorias — a place where Roman classics are revered alongside inventive dishes. In March, it changed location from a small venue in San Giovanni to a larger space in Porta Metronia, unveiling a sharper, more design-forward look with bright orange surfaces, sleek pendant lighting and a glass-walled kitchen. But despite the contemporary look, the spirit of the place remains the same. Wood chairs and comfy tables lend it a cosy, old-school feel, while the menu leans heavily on the Roman canon. Start with one of the best iterations of trippa alla romana in town — Rome-style tripe braised in a rich tomato sauce with pecorino — and don't miss the decadent house carbonara. The daily specials are always worth a glance, too, with dishes such as chitarra pasta with a duck ragu and fried veal brain with a punchy mullet-liver mayo. A standout plate at L'Antidoto: white asparagus with black mulberries, olives and a fermented asparagus sauce. Photograph by Simone Proietti Marcellini At L'Antidoto, chef Mirko Pelosi runs the kitchen solo, crafting inventive small plates with precision and flair. Photograph by Simone Proietti Marcellini Enoteca L'Antidoto Best for: small plates Tucked down a quiet backstreet in Trastevere, this small enoteca (wine bar) offers a low-lit, intimate setting behind hefty double doors marked with large letters 'VI' and 'NO'— 'vino'. Inside, just 16 guests get to try plenty of it, sitting at bar-height tables or at the counter, while a carefully curated collection of vinyl plays out softly. The restaurant's loyal regulars pop in to greet the young chef Mirko Pelosi at the bar before settling in for dinner. Pelosi's experiences in Europe's top Michelin-starred and avant-garde restaurants have been translated into a menu of inventive small plates and a natural-leaning wine list. While the dishes have a clear grounding in Italian cuisine, they do stray beyond its confines. A Japanese-inspired raw tuna dish, for example, sees sashimi slices draped over a vignerola — a Roman spring veggie stew — while a lamb ragu is accompanied by thick Middle Eastern grilled pitas. And don't miss the smoked bottarga (cured fish roe), which is sliced and topped with pickled raw almonds. At Retrobottega, signature plates like wild garlic spaghetti sit alongside seasonal indulgences like the artichoke katsu sando. Photographs by Berkok Yüksel Retrobottega Best for: cool ambiance For many, Rome conjures images of rustic trattorias rather than the minimalist venues tipped for Michelin stars. But the latter is exactly the offering at this spot next to the Pantheon. Expect moody corridors and spotlit chefs working behind red, semi-translucent curtains in what is one of the city's most exciting kitchens. Here, the menu combines a few mainstays — including the oxtail terrine or green spaghetti — with additional specials taking in the likes of eel and black garlic risotto and a glorious artichoke katsu sando. With a list of more than 90 wines, all available by the glass and mostly Italian, but with a handful of international picks, the restaurant is a real draw for discerning drinkers. For a more relaxed setting, head to Retrovino, the venue's wine bar, tucked out the back. Sit at the counter or linger streetside, glass in hand — with dishes from the main restaurant also available to order there, too. At Fischio, the crowd often spills beyond the tables — locals linger around the kiosk with a glass in hand as evening sets in. Fischio Best for: a casual drink Located next to a faded funfair, Fischio is a kiosk-style bar popular for its laid-back atmosphere. Part pavement hangout, part neighbourhood secret, it serves some of the best coffee in the city, thanks in part to its recent hire: the star barista from nearby LOVE, a bakery renowned city-wide for its coffee and pastries. Come late afternoon, the mood at Fischio shifts to a la dolce vita vibe. With a tight, well thought-through wine list and a front-row view of local life drifting past, it's an ideal spot for a glass of sparkling natural wine and a bit of people-watching as the Roman evening sets in. Fratelli Trecca Best for: slices of pizza There's no shortage of tourists lining up for pizza by the slice in Rome — and luckily, the city has more than enough quality spots to go round. Skip the queues at the famous Forno Roscioli, and head instead to Circo Massimo to try Fratelli Trecca's thinner, crispier, but equally satisfying slices, with standouts including the rossa con l'erbetta (marinara with parsley sauce) or the cipolle e cipolle, a white base topped with two types of thinly sliced onions, roasted until just shy of caramelised. Come the lunch or dinner rush, the menu expands to include classic Italian charcuterie toppings or other pizza specials like beef tongue with salsa verde or the rustic coppa di testa (pig's head brawn) with chicory. At €2.50 (£2) a slice, it's an affordable, flavour-packed bite that pairs nicely with a pint of the Puglian beer, Raffo, that's served on tap or a glass of natural wine. Necci dal 1924 Best for: outdoor seating Once a humble, working-class neighbourhood, Pigneto has become the go-to for weekend drinks among young Romans seeking a break from the hurly-burly of more established areas like Trastevere. At its heart is Necci, a laid-back bar-cafe that's ideal for an al fresco aperitivo. In its gravel-strewn garden with walls draped in jasmine, Necci serves a solid wine list, house cocktails and a menu that blends Italian staples like bucatini all'amatriciana (a simple pork and tomato pasta dish) with international comfort food like chicken schnitzel and forest berry cheesecakes. On sunny Sundays, it's a welcome refuge for a slow brunch — cappuccinos sipped beneath its mature trees are paired with cornetti pastries oozing with apricot jam or pear and chocolate chip almond cakes. At Beppe e i suoi formaggi, cheeseboards are built to order from a counter stacked with raw-milk wheels and Alpine specialities. Photograph by Andrea Di Lorenzo Beppe e i suoi formaggi Best for: local cheese Just at the entrance to the Jewish Quarter, this shrine to cheese is home to just few small tables facing a long glass counter stacked high with produce. There are golden shards of Parmigiano Reggiano, wheels of Alpine tommes and lesser-known regional treats including blu dolce di capra — a blue goat's cheese with a sweet creaminess and a tangy bite. Browse from a shelved wall of wine, with plenty of low-intervention varieties and ask the staff to put an accompanying cheeseboard together for you. Simply tell them how much cheese you're after — 200g, 300g or more — and they'll build a board with different options to suit your tastes, and your chosen wine. If looking for a souvenir to take home, a wedge of their well-aged pecorino Romano is the perfect choice. Mercato Trionfale Best for: food market haul Just a few blocks north of the Vatican, at the city's largest and most exciting food market you'll find locals doing their shopping, rather than tourists seeking a photo op. This deeply Roman neighbourhood bazaar has stalls that generally sell ingredients rather than snacks — everything from neatly packaged handmade ravioli and tubs of fresh ricotta to ropes of plaited garlic strung above parades of picky shoppers. One exception would be Il Pescatorio, an unassuming seafood stall by the Via Andrea Doria exit, where you can settle at a bar stool and pick from paper plates piled high with zingy octopus salads, swordfish parmigiana di melanzane and tuna sashimi. Look out for the maretozzos, Il Pescatorio's seafood spin on Rome's famous whipped cream-filled bun maritozzo. Since 2012, Marco Radicioni's Otaleg has redefined Roman gelato with unexpected, chef-driven flavours. Otaleg Best for: gelato and coffee Otaleg has long been celebrated for its wildly inventive gelato — the kind that blends seasonal ingredients with a mad genius chef's precision. While most come for a scoop, Otaleg's secret is behind the coffee counter. At the Monteverde branch, award-winning barista Gianni Olimpo — crowned Italy's best in 2022 and 2023 — serves deeply aromatic brews made with meticulously sourced beans. Whether it's a pour-over, Chemex or a textbook espresso, every cup is crafted with care. Pair the perfectly foamed cappuccino with a decadent zabaione-filled cornetto for a morning ritual that rivals any in the city. The courtyard at Palazzo Ripetta offers a tranquil setting for aperitivi and all-day dining beneath the Roman sky. Photograph by Palazzo Ripetta Where to stay: Palazzo Ripetta This Relais & Châteaux hotel, a few steps away from Piazza del Popolo, is housed in a renovated 17th-century building that was once an educational facility for orphaned girls. Rooms are decorated in colourful velvets and contemporary Italian furniture, while the hotel's public spaces carry modern artworks by the likes of Andy Warhol and sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro. But the food offerings are the showstopper. The breakfast spread includes generous charcuterie — soft morsels of mortadella and indulgently fatty prosciutto — alongside a pastry table piled with Italian staples such as cream-filled maritozzi. San Baylon, the hotel's fine dining restaurant, helmed by chef Christian Spalvieri and featured in the Michelin Guide, offers a refined take on Italian cuisine with a focus on produce — including olive oil pressed from Palazzo Ripetta's own groves in the volcanic Alban Hills southeast of Rome. There's also the chance to dine in the hotel's lush garden piazzetta and enjoy an aperitivo with a view over Rome's homes and domes at the rooftop bar, Etere. Double rooms from €550 (£463) B&B. To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
18 hours ago
Hajj attendance falls to 30-year-low excluding the COVID-19 pandemic period
ISLAMABAD -- This year's Hajj in Saudi Arabia attracted the lowest number of pilgrims for 30 years, excluding the COVID-19 pandemic period, according to figures released Thursday. The annual Islamic pilgrimage attracted just 1,673,230 Muslims, the majority of them from outside Saudi Arabia, according to a post from the country's Hajj Ministry on the social platform X. Authorities did not immediately offer an explanation for the low turnout. It's almost 160,000 fewer pilgrims than last year and a far cry from the pre-pandemic boom, when attendance would regularly push past 2 million. There was a record-breaking Hajj in 2012, when more than 3.16 million Muslims took part. The kingdom ran a pared-down pilgrimage during the COVID-19 pandemic, sharply reducing the scale of the Hajj between 2020 and 2022 while still allowing a small number of the faithful to take part in the annual event. The Hajj in 2023 was the first to be held without restrictions since the start of the pandemic in 2020. At the Hajj, Muslims gather in Saudi Arabia to unite in religious rituals and acts of worship as they fulfil one of the Five Pillars of Islam, a religious obligation. It can be the spiritual experience of a lifetime for them and a chance to seek God's forgiveness and the erasure of past sins. But inflation and economic crises around the world are putting the Hajj out of reach for some. Excess heat and tougher rules for entry may have also deterred potential pilgrims from heading to Saudi Arabia this year. Earlier Thursday, pilgrims gathered in Arafat to spend hours in worship and contemplation. The rocky hill holds immense significance in Islam. Arafat is mentioned in the Quran and it is where the Prophet Muhammad is said to have given his last sermon on his final Hajj. On Friday, pilgrims will head to the vast tent city of Mina to carry out the symbolic stoning of the devil ritual by throwing pebbles at pillars.
