In Tokyo, fish-shaped ‘taiyaki' treats offer a sea of options

Japan Times

6 days ago

The world of sweets in Japan is vast. It's a realm unto itself that positively jostles with originality and regionality, imported flavors and home-grown traditions.
A particularly recognizable member of the Japanese sweets family is taiyaki. Shaped after its namesake — tai or sea bream — it is made by pouring a wheat flour batter into a cast-iron mold and then filled with (traditionally, at least) adzuki bean paste before it is cooked (yaki) or baked. Today, the bean paste is just one of hundreds of available fillings, which run from custard to ice cream and risotto to matcha.
The origins of taiyaki aren't exactly clear, but a popular theory suggests that it may have originated at Naniwa-ya, a shop that opened in Tokyo's Azabu-Juban neighborhood in 1909. Imagawayaki, a squat, cylindrical sweet made in the same way and with a history dating back to the Edo Period (1603-1867), could have also been taiyaki's progenitor.
Historical claims aside, Tokyo is a tantalizing sea brimming with taiyaki makers of various backgrounds that range from stalwart establishments to new kids on the block. They showcase not only their versatility but also a willingness to not always stick to tradition.
Yanagi-ya
Yanagi-ya has been specializing in taiyaki since 1916. Queuing up at the tiny store, you can get a good look at the casting and cooking of the baked goodies behind the counter.
Established in 1916, Yanagi-ya is one of the oldest "taiyaki" shops in Tokyo. |
RUSSELL THOMAS
Here, it's all about the old-school, thin-skinned taiyaki (¥200 each): Their Hokkaido-grown adzuki bean paste filling, which has just the right amount of sweetness, doesn't break through its light and crisp exterior. In short, it is scrumptious. And if you're a fan, you can grab a box of six (¥1,350) or more — just phone ahead if you're thinking of ordering dozens.
Aside from taiyaki, aisu monaka — ice cream (vanilla or ogura, a mix of smooth or coarse bean paste) sandwiched between two wafers — are also available at ¥200 apiece, offering a small respite from these sweltering times.
Ningyocho 3-22-7, Chuo Ward, Tokyo; 03-3666-9901; takeout available
Meguro Hiiragi
Meguro Hiiragi is nestled along the parade of stores running from the east exit of Gakugei-Daigaku Station. It's one of the more modern offerings on this list, having opened its doors in 2020, and fits in comfortably with the casual-chic gastronomic delights in this part of town.
The adzuki bean paste filling used for Meguro Hiiragi's "taiyaki" is also sold individually. |
RUSSELL THOMAS
You may take away your taiyaki (¥230 each) and devour it in the comfort of your air-conditioned abode, away from the summer heat. The skin is thin and baked until satisfyingly crispy, while its filling has an unadulterated bean flavor. You can also bring home a pot of the adzuki bean paste (¥520).
If you eat in, the in-cafe menu offers, among other things, a taiyaki and a drink of your choice (tea or coffee) for ¥680. Also recommended in this infernal heat is the shirokuma (literally, 'polar bear'), a kakigōri (shaved ice) of fruit and condensed milk decorated as the fluffy white mammal.
Takaban 2−8−23, Meguro Ward, Tokyo; 03-6303-1709
Taiyaki-ya Oyoge
The website of Oyoge flashes a hashtag while loading, 'Taiyaki janakute mo ii jan' ('It doesn't have to be taiyaki'), which hints at its concept. Moving away from the traditional sea bream-outlined shapes, Oyoge offers alternative silhouettes of iwashi (sardine), aji (horse mackerel) and asari (clam), with fillings of bean paste and cream cheese, white bean and caramel, and rum caramel, respectively (¥360 each).
Packed with butter and coarse bean paste, the "an-batā sando" from Taiyaki-ya Oyoge is a greasy, mouthwatering sandwich. |
RUSSELL THOMAS
Possibly named after the 1975 children's song 'Oyoge! Taiyaki-kun,' which tells the story of a taiyaki that escapes a taiyaki shop to live in the sea, Oyoge is not the cheapest around, but it's also where I've eaten some of the most creative taiyaki. The an-batā sando — adzuki bean paste and butter sandwiched in a slim iwashi-shaped batter (¥450) — offers a wild, messy bite. Its batter is thick, and the salty, greasy butter complements the coarse-textured beans for a dose of sweet-savory deliciousness.
Roppongi 7−13−10, Minato Ward, Tokyo; 03-6447-0094
Daikokudo
Another venerable establishment, Daikokudo was founded in 1929 but traces its sleek, new look to 2020. This near-centenarian store can boast having its goods stocked at the Kabukiza theater, namely its ningyoyaki, which are shaped like the Shichifukujin (Seven Lucky Gods).
Daikokudo, though, is better known for its ayuyaki (¥150 each), which are named after the ayu (sweetfish) that were once caught along the banks of the Tama River located a stone's throw from the store.
Daikokudo's soft serve ice cream paired with a spongy "ayuyaki" (sweetfish-shaped pancake) batter is a welcome treat this summer. |
RUSSELL THOMAS
Its soft-serve vanilla ice cream (¥450), served on a rather thick and spongy ayuyaki batter along with a crisp wafer cone, is also a bestseller.
Denenchofu 1-55-5, Ota Ward, Tokyo; 03-3721-2789
Taiyaki To
Taiyaki To is a fine example of Tokyo's ability to offer great food in the least obvious of places.
Hidden amid the residential warren of Ebara in Shinagawa Ward, it is the one-man venture of Daisuke Hasegawa, who cut his teeth at the famous Naniwa-ya over in Azabu-Juban before opening his shop in 2022. He makes his taiyaki using the now-somewhat rare itchō-yaki, a method where each taiyaki is cooked individually over an open flame.
Taiyaki To is one of the few shops in Tokyo that still cook each "taiyaki" individually over an open flame. |
RUSSELL THOMAS
Hasegawa's taiyaki are decidedly old-school, a style reflected in their very thin and crisp batter. The fillings are fun, and options change every now and then. You'll find flavors like zunda (¥300), a paste made from edamame, and tsubu-an (coarse red bean paste; ¥200), which has just the right amount of sweetness. Pair your treats with an ice coffee (¥350) and chill inside the tiny retro box of a store or on a bench outside.
Ebara⁡ 6-6-8, Shinagawa Ward, Tokyo; 070-9036-0871
Honorable mention
It would be remiss to omit Naniwa-ya . This celebrated taiyaki joint has been serving up what some would say is the original version of taiyaki since 1909. While it probably thrives on its reputation, there is no doubt that the thin-skinned taiyaki here (takeout price: ¥200) offers a taste of a bygone era: Its crisp batter is just slightly overcooked, while the natural sweetness of the bean filling is accentuated by a touch of salt. You can also sit in for a kanmi-nomimono (sweet and drink) set from ¥800.