
A luxury river cruise through the vineyards of Champagne, with tickets from £63,000
Who knew big-bottomed barges could be sexy? Belmond, apparently. The LVMH group's seven-strong fleet journeys along some of France's 2,700 miles of canals and inland waterways, seducing guests with its slow travel ethos with disarming ease. Coquelicot, a 39-metre converted Dutch cargo barge is Les Bateaux Belmond's leading lady, and the only one that meanders through effervescent Champagne (others cruise Burgundy, Provence or Camargue).
There's a whimsical pleasure associated with canal cruising, typified by the kitschy Roses & Castles paintwork that identifies traditional narrowboats with just enough room for two at the tiller. Belmond's floating villa, however – all sage green accents and Brazilian hardwood decks – is rather a cut above, and I can think of no more luxurious way to carve out a gentle sojourn through the vineyards of France's Pinot Noir countryside.
I first glimpsed Coquelicot, my home for two nights, moored on the bank of the Canal latéral à la Marne, a 42-mile (67km) stretch of scenic waterway built to bypass the River Marne's tricky navigation upstream of Épernay. I'd made the mad dash that morning through London's St Pancras International to catch the Eurostar to Paris, before jumping aboard a fast train to Reims, which spat me out onto Champagne's doorstep like a popped cork.
Fortunately, that's where the frenetic pace ended, and soon I was strolling along a grassy towpath gulping deep lungfuls of glorious fresh air tinged with the buttery tang of rapeseed. Coquelicot's young crew – clad to a man in Saint James Breton tops and Palladium boots – welcomed me aboard (so far, so superyacht) with a glass of delicately bubbled Ruinart Brut, while the dulcet tones of Edith Piaf wafted from a discreetly placed pair of speakers onto a peachy afternoon breeze. The great slow down had officially begun.
Bounding from the galley (with all the Parisian panache of a chef whose restaurant has garnered three Michelin stars) came Dominique Crenn, whose partnership with Les Bateaux Belmond to create signature menus (one lunch, one dinner) that celebrate seasonal local ingredients brings a slice of Atelier Crenn's San Francisco farm-to-table ethos to Champagne.
'I told my team to close their eyes and imagine what we would want to eat on the boat,' she said, holding court on the top deck as we dived into a starter of spring pea tart topped with trout roe, mint and spoonfuls of milk velouté.
'You're going to be drinking a lot of wine and relaxing all day, so you need light, fresh food that brings happiness to the palate,' she added prophetically, as a steady stream of epicurean delights served on Marie Daâge crockery alighted the table.
Pretty platters of white and green wild asparagus served with caviar, saffron, and tartare of tomatoes (Chef Crenn's preferred ingredient in May) were swiftly followed by ladles of crab and mussel bouillabaisse, each layer washed down with a delicately paired vintage from the boat's bulging wine cellar (pre-stocked with guest requests) showcasing the finest of France's Grand Crus.
Novice oenophiles are also in good hands with Coquelicot's two consummate hosts, Marie-Jeanne and Thomas, whose selections included a citrusy Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru and a punchy Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru from the 2020 vintage. Both were met with enthusiastic approval from the Parisian food writer who joined me on the trip. Her request for a crisp rosé later the next day – as we drifted past banks of cobalt blue irises – saw us quaffing glasses from retired-NBA star Tony Parker's Saint Laurent vineyard, who, along with Seth Rogan and Catherine Zeta-Jones, is – I'm told – a fan of Coquelicot's dreamy offering.
Eating and drinking is central to all of Belmond's river cruises (one in Burgundy takes in a whopping 12 Michelin stars), as evidenced by the culinary dishes served up by Coquelicot's equally talented Lithuanian onboard chef, Virgil Tiskus, whose pan-fried bass fillet with celeriac and vanilla puree was a notable highlight.
Week-long itineraries for up to six guests also include several off board meals; perhaps lunch at the glass-clad Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa's Michelin-starred Le Royal which holds the largest champagne collection in the region. Or, an immersive gastronomic five-course dinner at the historical headquarters of Coquelicot's partner Maison Ruinart, the oldest champagne house, whose history is brought to life on the plate through projected illustrations by Japanese-born Kanako Kuno.
Another appeal of luxury barge cruising is the ease with which we moored up on tree-lined canals, hopping onto Coquelicot's four bikes and setting off on jaunts across the vineyard-strewn countryside, chauffeured by the affable Sarah. She deposited us at the ancient subterranean crayères (chalk pits) of Veuve Clicquot where we learned how to release the cork with an 'angel's kiss'.
The next day, we strolled through Ruinart's sculpture garden housing works by environmental artists Mouawad Laurier and British artist David Shrigley (his miniature faces carved into the chalky cellars are a delight) before sampling the Maison's dangerously palatable Blanc Singulier Edition 19; a 100 per cent chardonnay cuvée and surprising silver lining to the evolving climate change the region is facing.
There's hot air ballooning for early risers, or Hautvillers Abbey, the final resting place of Dom Pérignon – not to mention the region's litany of wisteria-clad villages for picturesque walks, including the aptly named Bouzy and Dizy. The restless have use of Lipova natural wood gym equipment (some boats have heated panoramic pools), but I preferred to laze onboard as we wove our way past brightly shuttered gîtes, lulled by birdsong and the hypnotic rhythm of the mechanical locks, the last of which delivered us with a surge onto the wide-bodied River Marne.
In a region that can barely be disentangled from its namesake product, I was barely able to rouse myself from a dream-like revery. If this is how the upper crust do luxury slow travel, sign me up for the summer.
Essentials
Les Bateaux Belmond has seven-day sailings to Champagne aboard Coquelicot from €75,000 (£63,800), based on a private charter for up to six guests. This includes meals, beverages, daily breakfast, all excursions (including use of the onboard bicycles), a private guide, and return transfers from within France and Geneva. Departures on August 3, 10 and 17, 2025.

Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles


BBC News
2 hours ago
- BBC News
Jersey ID card scheme for French day-trippers criticised
Jersey's ID scheme for French day-trippers risks opening a "dangerous backdoor" into the UK, the shadow home secretary Chris Philp has last week unanimously agreed to continue the scheme which allows French day-trippers to visit Jersey using their national ID cards rather than a Affairs Minister Deputy Mart Le Hegarat said she had been sent a letter by her UK counterparts outlining concerns. The BBC has requested a copy of the Home Office said: "Crown dependencies are self-governing, with their own immigration requirements which we cannot comment on." Philp said the ID scheme was a "glaring loophole" in the Common Travel Area and "undermined our national immigration rules"."Allowing entry on ID cards rather than passports risks opening a dangerous backdoor into the UK," he said."The government's job is to keep our borders secure."Ministers must urgently set out what safeguards are in place to prevent abuse and ensure this policy isn't exploited as a route into mainland Britain without proper checks." 'Right safeguards' Le Hegarat said Jersey officials had had "ongoing formal engagement on this matter with the UK government since 2023"."Now that we have a clear mandate from the assembly, I will continue this engagement with UK ministers and ensure we can continue to operate the scheme with the right safeguards in place," she said."Until those discussions progress, I'm not in a position to comment further."Guernsey is yet to make a decision on whether to continue its ID card scheme for French visitors but the BBC understands the island's Committee for Home Affairs is considering an extension.


Daily Mail
19 hours ago
- Daily Mail
Nadia Bartel enjoys luxurious Parisian holiday with longtime boyfriend Peter Dugmore and her two sons as the foursome settle into family life
Nadia Bartel 's romance with Peter Dugmore is going strong. The fashion brand founder, 40, has headed off to Paris with her longtime boyfriend and her two children. The social media sensation shared a series of updates from the luxury trip to Instagram this week. The images show Nadia cuddling up to Peter, and her kids, sons Aston and Henley, as they played tourist in the French city of love. Enjoying crepes, upmarket shopping and strolls along the Seine while taking in views of the Eiffel Tower, the foursome have clearly settled into life as a blended family. From A-list scandals and red carpet mishaps to exclusive pictures and viral moments, subscribe to the DailyMail's new showbiz newsletter to stay in the loop. 'The first day in Paris. We arrived early in the morning but couldn't check into our accommodation until 4pm so spent the day eating and shopping our way through Paris in the rain' Nadia wrote in her caption. 'I haven't been here in over 10 years and so happy with the accommodation we booked last minute as it was cheaper than all the hotels we were worried it was a scam' she continued. 'The boys literally crashed asleep when we were at our 4th cafe ha'. Nadia and Peter are going from strength to strength, having met after Peter slid into the fashionista's Instagram DMs. 'I don't usually respond to Instagram messages, and I don't know if it was because I was feeling lonely, but I responded,' she told her followers on Instagram. 'I looked at his profile and we had some mutual friends and he looked like a nice guy. He also didn't have a lot of posts – and I liked that,' she said. Nadia continued: 'I really enjoyed the chats but I never thought I'd ever see this person – it was just nice to chat. 'I was in a good place with my mental health and I didn't want to put myself in a position where I could be hurt again.' 'The first day in Paris. We arrived early in the morning but couldn't check into our accommodation until 4pm so spent the day eating and shopping our way through Paris in the rain' Nadia wrote in her caption The designer eventually met up with Peter at The Tan, a popular running route in Melbourne, and said they have been together ever since. Speaking to Daily Mail Australia, Nadia recently revealed marriage was currently not on the cards for the couple. 'I don't think so,' she laughed. 'You know when you've done that then you're like I don't know If I'd do that again.' 'But when you meet someone that you feel like you want to marry it's a good feeling. We are so happy. He's a good boy.' Nadia and Peter went Instagram official in December 2022. The pair confirmed their relationship by getting hot and heavy in a photo shared to Instagram Stories. Nadia told Daily Mail Australia her relationship with the former footballer-turned-model is going swimmingly. 'My love life is going well. It's good. I'm happy,' she shared. 'I think he's The One. I do think he is and I think that he's got so many amazing attributes,' Nadia added. 'He's just such a good person. I think the way he makes me feel...' After going public in late 2022, Nadia and Peter have often been seen cuddling up at exclusive events and on sweet dates around Melbourne. The loved-up couple were pictured sharing a passionate kiss in at the Australian Open in Melbourne last year. Nadia announced her split from retired AFL star Jimmy in August 2019, five years after they tied the knot on the Bellarine Peninsula. She shares her sons, Aston and Henley, with her AFL star ex-husband Jimmy Bartel, who she was married to from 2014 to 2021. While Nadia has moved on with Peter, Jimmy welcomed a child with Amelia Sheppard in April last year.


Daily Mail
21 hours ago
- Daily Mail
The six million skeletons hidden in over 150 miles of tunnels under Paris' streets
From the Eiffel Tower to the Louvre, Paris' top tourist attractions draw around 50 million visitors to the French capital every year. But many travellers miss one of the city's more curious landmarks - because it's entirely underground. Hidden beneath the streets of Paris is a labyrinth of tunnels with more than six million skeletons inside. The Catacombs were first opened in the late 18th century when public health issues at Paris' cemeteries led authorities to move the skeletons to an underground site. The last bones were put in the Catacombs in 1860 but the site was first opened to the public in 1809. The first visits were by appointment only but quickly became very popular. While just a small section of the Catacombs is open to the public today, the entire network is thought to be around 174 miles long. Nowadays, tourists can visit the site and the Catacombs gets around 550,000 visitors a year. Travellers will need to descend 131 steps, 20m down into the 'depths of Paris' to reach the site. Visitors then follow a 1.5km long route around the Catacombs which takes about an hour. And while the Catacombs are open all year round, there's a particularly good reason to visit during summer. Even if temperatures are heatwave-level outside, it's generally never warmer than 14 degrees inside the Catacombs, making the tunnels the perfect cool escape from warm weather. As unusual as it may seem as a tourist attraction, the Catacombs have picked up a 4.1/5 star rating on Tripadvisor. One reviewer writes: 'What a unique experience in Paris. It was an informative experience.' Another person says: 'Weird but interesting. The bones were arranged and stacked skilfully.' And another person reveals: 'This was my favourite part of my trip to Paris. I'm a nurse and a science lover, and am confident that anyone with great interest in history will enjoy visiting the Catacombs.'