
A luxury river cruise through the vineyards of Champagne, with tickets from £63,000
Who knew big-bottomed barges could be sexy? Belmond, apparently. The LVMH group's seven-strong fleet journeys along some of France's 2,700 miles of canals and inland waterways, seducing guests with its slow travel ethos with disarming ease. Coquelicot, a 39-metre converted Dutch cargo barge is Les Bateaux Belmond's leading lady, and the only one that meanders through effervescent Champagne (others cruise Burgundy, Provence or Camargue).
There's a whimsical pleasure associated with canal cruising, typified by the kitschy Roses & Castles paintwork that identifies traditional narrowboats with just enough room for two at the tiller. Belmond's floating villa, however – all sage green accents and Brazilian hardwood decks – is rather a cut above, and I can think of no more luxurious way to carve out a gentle sojourn through the vineyards of France's Pinot Noir countryside.
I first glimpsed Coquelicot, my home for two nights, moored on the bank of the Canal latéral à la Marne, a 42-mile (67km) stretch of scenic waterway built to bypass the River Marne's tricky navigation upstream of Épernay. I'd made the mad dash that morning through London's St Pancras International to catch the Eurostar to Paris, before jumping aboard a fast train to Reims, which spat me out onto Champagne's doorstep like a popped cork.
Fortunately, that's where the frenetic pace ended, and soon I was strolling along a grassy towpath gulping deep lungfuls of glorious fresh air tinged with the buttery tang of rapeseed. Coquelicot's young crew – clad to a man in Saint James Breton tops and Palladium boots – welcomed me aboard (so far, so superyacht) with a glass of delicately bubbled Ruinart Brut, while the dulcet tones of Edith Piaf wafted from a discreetly placed pair of speakers onto a peachy afternoon breeze. The great slow down had officially begun.
Bounding from the galley (with all the Parisian panache of a chef whose restaurant has garnered three Michelin stars) came Dominique Crenn, whose partnership with Les Bateaux Belmond to create signature menus (one lunch, one dinner) that celebrate seasonal local ingredients brings a slice of Atelier Crenn's San Francisco farm-to-table ethos to Champagne.
'I told my team to close their eyes and imagine what we would want to eat on the boat,' she said, holding court on the top deck as we dived into a starter of spring pea tart topped with trout roe, mint and spoonfuls of milk velouté.
'You're going to be drinking a lot of wine and relaxing all day, so you need light, fresh food that brings happiness to the palate,' she added prophetically, as a steady stream of epicurean delights served on Marie Daâge crockery alighted the table.
Pretty platters of white and green wild asparagus served with caviar, saffron, and tartare of tomatoes (Chef Crenn's preferred ingredient in May) were swiftly followed by ladles of crab and mussel bouillabaisse, each layer washed down with a delicately paired vintage from the boat's bulging wine cellar (pre-stocked with guest requests) showcasing the finest of France's Grand Crus.
Novice oenophiles are also in good hands with Coquelicot's two consummate hosts, Marie-Jeanne and Thomas, whose selections included a citrusy Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru and a punchy Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru from the 2020 vintage. Both were met with enthusiastic approval from the Parisian food writer who joined me on the trip. Her request for a crisp rosé later the next day – as we drifted past banks of cobalt blue irises – saw us quaffing glasses from retired-NBA star Tony Parker's Saint Laurent vineyard, who, along with Seth Rogan and Catherine Zeta-Jones, is – I'm told – a fan of Coquelicot's dreamy offering.
Eating and drinking is central to all of Belmond's river cruises (one in Burgundy takes in a whopping 12 Michelin stars), as evidenced by the culinary dishes served up by Coquelicot's equally talented Lithuanian onboard chef, Virgil Tiskus, whose pan-fried bass fillet with celeriac and vanilla puree was a notable highlight.
Week-long itineraries for up to six guests also include several off board meals; perhaps lunch at the glass-clad Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa's Michelin-starred Le Royal which holds the largest champagne collection in the region. Or, an immersive gastronomic five-course dinner at the historical headquarters of Coquelicot's partner Maison Ruinart, the oldest champagne house, whose history is brought to life on the plate through projected illustrations by Japanese-born Kanako Kuno.
Another appeal of luxury barge cruising is the ease with which we moored up on tree-lined canals, hopping onto Coquelicot's four bikes and setting off on jaunts across the vineyard-strewn countryside, chauffeured by the affable Sarah. She deposited us at the ancient subterranean crayères (chalk pits) of Veuve Clicquot where we learned how to release the cork with an 'angel's kiss'.
The next day, we strolled through Ruinart's sculpture garden housing works by environmental artists Mouawad Laurier and British artist David Shrigley (his miniature faces carved into the chalky cellars are a delight) before sampling the Maison's dangerously palatable Blanc Singulier Edition 19; a 100 per cent chardonnay cuvée and surprising silver lining to the evolving climate change the region is facing.
There's hot air ballooning for early risers, or Hautvillers Abbey, the final resting place of Dom Pérignon – not to mention the region's litany of wisteria-clad villages for picturesque walks, including the aptly named Bouzy and Dizy. The restless have use of Lipova natural wood gym equipment (some boats have heated panoramic pools), but I preferred to laze onboard as we wove our way past brightly shuttered gîtes, lulled by birdsong and the hypnotic rhythm of the mechanical locks, the last of which delivered us with a surge onto the wide-bodied River Marne.
In a region that can barely be disentangled from its namesake product, I was barely able to rouse myself from a dream-like revery. If this is how the upper crust do luxury slow travel, sign me up for the summer.
Essentials
Les Bateaux Belmond has seven-day sailings to Champagne aboard Coquelicot from €75,000 (£63,800), based on a private charter for up to six guests. This includes meals, beverages, daily breakfast, all excursions (including use of the onboard bicycles), a private guide, and return transfers from within France and Geneva. Departures on August 3, 10 and 17, 2025.

Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles


Times
2 hours ago
- Times
‘I was forced to abandon a case of expensive wine at Palermo airport'
✉ I booked a flight with Volotea from Palermo in Sicily to Tarbes in France last month and paid for an extra 25kg piece of luggage. It was a sturdy cardboard box, well packed and secured, holding 12 bottles of wine, worth about £380, for personal consumption. It weighed about 18kg and I've checked in similar items with other airlines many times over the years. At check-in the box was refused after I told them what it was. Apparently this was because I'd exceeded my personal allowance; because it wasn't in a suitcase; and because it was inflammable liquid. This legal item was refused on spurious grounds and I had to leave what was an expensive case of wine in Palermo airport. I've had no apology or offer of compensation. What further steps can I take to bring Volotea to account?Peter Harvey What a shame you had to abandon a case of delicious Sicilian wine in Palermo. Unfortunately it will be tricky to get compensation for your loss. Volotea insisted you'd exceeded your personal alcohol allowance, which was five litres, but this was irrelevant because the rule applies to drinks with between 24 and 70 per cent ABV and you only had wine, which is about 12 per cent. It added, however, that the decision was also made in line with safety regulations. 'The item was transported in a cardboard box rather than a suitcase, raising additional concerns about packaging and suitability, as items may be refused if their weight, shape, or nature is deemed unsuitable for transport under the applicable guidelines.' It will not offer any compensation and gave no clue about what happened to the wine. If you want to take your case further you could try the UK International Consumer Centre, which aims to resolve disputes with companies outside the UK ( Next time you might be safer using a suitcase and a roll of bubble wrap to transport precious bottles. ✉ I have nostalgic memories of childhood holidays in Switzerland and Austria, in Heidi countryside, with a stream, meadows and the sound of cowbells along the road each morning. I'd like to arrange a week's holiday in a similar place, with a friend or family member, and am looking for a good traditional-style hotel with a pool or spa, with easy access from London by plane or train. Any ideas?Viv Lowe Hotel Meisser in Guarda in Switzerland's Engadine Valley could have stepped straight out of Heidi, such is its fairytale setting. Tucked away in the Swiss Alps and surrounded by meadows, this deeply traditional family-run hotel is housed in beautifully preserved 17th-century Engadine buildings decorated with pastel murals and has classic stone pine panelled interiors. There's great walking from the door but if you prefer to stay put, there's a gym, yoga house and sauna, or you can drink in the magical views from one of the loungers in the garden. Half-board doubles start from £286 this month ( Fly to Zurich and then take the train to Guarda (there are two changes) and the post bus up to the village. • The Alps is my all-time favourite summer holiday. Here's where to stay ✉ We're looking for a change from the UK norm this Christmas and are keen for a relaxing ten-night long-haul break for a family of four, including two children aged 11 and 12. We'd love an all-inclusive hotel, direct flights from London and the opportunity to take them snorkelling, ideally from the beach at the hotel. Our budget is up to £12,000. Any suggestions?Kate Voss It's only June but Christmas long-haul trips are selling out and trying to tick all your boxes is already difficult. Mauritius, the Seychelles and Mexico are too expensive but a trip to the Caribbean is doable and if you stay at Dreams Dominicus La Romana in Bayahibe in the Dominican Republic you'll have snorkelling from the beach on a man-made reef directly in front of the resort (you can also snorkel along the right side of the resort's beach, near a jetty and more reefs). An 11-night all-inclusive holiday with flights from Gatwick on December 23 starts at £12,018 if you all share a deluxe tropical view room ( • 29 of the best winter sun destinations for 2025 ✉ As an expat Australian with thyroid problems I really suffer in London winters and would like to spend January in a warm climate, not too far from the UK. I want to fly from Gatwick and be within walking distance of a beach and places to eat and shop. I love art and history. I only need one bedroom and have a good budget. Can you recommend anywhere?Allison Holmes If you're looking for the perfect quick escape from a gloomy London winter, make sunny Malaga your base. It's an easy trip from Gatwick, has a beach within walking distance of the city centre and some of the best museums and galleries in Andalusia, including the Museo Picasso (the artist was born here) and an outpost of the Pompidou Centre in Paris. For history buffs, the Malaga Museum, with its fantastic archaeology section, is a must-do and once you've worked through the city's cultural offerings, Cordoba and Granada are an easy train ride away. Best of all, temperatures often creep into the 20s in January. There are plenty of centrally located one-bedroom apartments starting at about £1,200 a month ( ✉ My husband and I were caught up in the power outage in Spain on April 28 when we were due to board the 9.15pm British Airways flight from Madrid to Heathrow. With no electricity in the whole of the city, no phone signal at all and no feasible way to get to the airport, we had no way of contacting or being contacted by BA to ascertain whether the flight was still going ahead. When the electricity came back on at about 9pm, we got a notification from BA that our flight was going ahead with a short delay. It was still impossible to get to the airport, so with phone lines working again, we desperately tried to get hold of BA but to no avail. We had to get back so we booked the last two BA seats we could find the next day, costing £1,257.60 (£628.80 each), as well as another night in our hotel, which cost £464. I put in a claim but BA phoned me to say that because the original flight took off, the airline was unable to provide any reimbursement. Am I in the wrong for expecting some sort of recompense? We were forced to book those flights because in the chaos that day, BA was unavailable for passenger Simbulan BA really does need to sort out its communication and advice to passengers during critical incidents (I've also heard from a reader who tried his best to get into Heathrow Terminal 5 when it was shut on the day of the power outage there in March because the BA app insisted his flight was still going ahead). There was obviously no way you could get to the airport and BA should have followed the example of easyJet, which quickly announced that it was offering free transfers to other flights for passengers unable to travel. After I sent BA details of your case, one of its customer service team got in touch to offer a full refund of your replacement flight and hotel stay as a gesture of goodwill. • 19 of the best places to visit in January 2025 Have you got a holiday dilemma? Email traveldoctor@


Telegraph
15 hours ago
- Telegraph
Why a voyage on the water doesn't mean compromising on style
What if there was a ship that was in tune with the type of hotel you like to stay at? Serene and stylishly understated, this hotel on the water would embody that relaxing Scandinavian aesthetic. Every design detail, from the elegant public spaces to the Aquavit Terraces, would be inspired by nature. Think granite, slate and finely crafted birch and juniper woods, hand-woven textiles, ingenious lichen 'rugs', and traditional Norwegian-knit bed throws. Pelt-draped sofas and cosy fire pits would complete the look. Service would be subtle and refined (better, possibly, than you're used to on land) though never formal or stuffy. On this light-drenched ship, and with no children on board, you would be assured of a blissful hush, whether watching the horizon, dipping into one of the hundreds of books from the well-curated library, or relaxing with a drink in the Lounge. The good news is this is not a 'what if ' scenario. Your stylish sanctuary on the water awaits – on board a Viking ocean, river or expedition ship. A cut above Viking does holidays on the rivers, lakes and oceans like no other line. When it comes to décor, design and ambience, it is simply being true to its Scandinavian roots. Torstein Hagen, the chairman and chief executive of Viking, brings decades of experience and Norwegian heritage. Combine the company's heritage with some impressive cultural partnerships and an emphasis on destination enrichment, and it's no wonder that the Viking experience is a cut above. Nothing is showy – you won't find cocktail umbrellas, casinos or chintz on a Viking ship. Announcements are kept to an absolute minimum and there are no formal nights or dinner jackets required. Think of a place you'd love to visit and chances are Viking sails there. Launched in 1997 with four river ships, Viking now offers journeys on rivers, oceans and lakes around the world and visits all seven continents. In Europe there are river itineraries for every interest and season, whether it's castles, cathedrals, wine, tulip fields, grand waterside cities or snow-draped villages and festive markets. River ships also sail the Mekong, the Mississippi and the Nile, while ocean ships visit places such as the remote Easter Island, the Panama Canal, the Chilean fjords and Sydney Harbour. Much closer to home you could be weaving through Norway's dreamy Lofoten Islands or sailing down a stunning fjord towards the Unesco-listed Montenegrin port of Kotor. Ships ahoy Viking's fleet of innovative river, ocean and expedition ships are purpose-built for both enjoyment and comfort. Two of the latest ships to join the Viking family are Polar Class expedition ships, each carrying a host of state-of-the-art equipment and two submarines. Viking seeks to elevate the guest experience, which is why it takes its guests to inspiring destinations on all seven continents. Viking offers exclusive, behind-the-scenes access on its excursions and was the first to offer a boutique, Scandi-luxe vibe to the Mississippi. Viking's inquisitive guests show an appreciation for culture, art and design. They travel to be stirred, to widen their horizons in destinations including Asia and to deepen their knowledge of a place and its inhabitants. Through Viking's signature Privileged Access shore excursion programme guests can choose to take private tours of world-class institutions. Viking's cultural partners include the Munch Museum in Oslo, where guests can see paintings by the Norwegian expressionist Edvard Munch. In fact, one of the largest collections of his works outside of Oslo can be found on board Viking's ocean ships. At the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York guests can access the museum before it opens to enjoy a clear view of its artworks, guided by a museum expert. Expansive experience Each Viking journey includes shore excursions and an onboard enrichment programme that provides immersion in the destination through talks from carefully selected guest lecturers on topics including wildlife, architecture, culture, cuisine and natural phenomena, such as the aurora borealis. In certain destinations there may be wine tasting, a culinary class or a music performance. All of this is included in the ' inclusive value ' fare. Across the whole Viking fleet, the pricing covers everything that guests could possibly need – all meals on board, wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner, Wi-Fi, a shore excursion in most ports, onboard gratuities and flights. And on ocean and expedition ships, guests can enjoy access to alternative restaurants and spa and fitness centres. So, there is no need to worry about any hidden surprises mysteriously finding their way onto your bill. The only problem that you'll ever face when you're on a Viking ship – if you can even call it a problem – is that you may get too settled, feel too at home, and not want to get off. And that would be a shame, because this hotel is going places. Start exploring Viking's incredible range of river, ocean and expedition voyages, on ships designed for discovery.


Telegraph
20 hours ago
- Telegraph
Discover timeless treasures with a voyage on the Rhine
Politics may be the reason why Strasbourg makes the headlines, but the historic beauty of the city is as eye-catching as anything discussed in the European Parliament. Wandering among the picture-perfect half-timbered buildings of the Petite France district, their flower-dappled facades reflected in the canals, the giant modern buildings of various EU institutions seem a world away. After giving my camera a workout, I relax in a café with a slice of tarte flambée; the next day, I learn how to make the Alsace version of pizza in a fun cooking demonstration on our Viking Longship, moored nearby. Strasbourg is a highlight of Viking's Rhine voyages and it features on the eight-day Rhine Getaway (which operates from early March to late November). The journey starts and finishes in Amsterdam or Basel (or vice versa), with ports of call in four countries. Arriving in Cologne, I find it easy to switch between standing in awe beneath its gigantic Gothic cathedral and sampling its revered beer culture in a traditional tavern. Another fine cathedral dominates Speyer, this one having sandstone walls and towers that glow brightly in the sun at the end of a charming 'high street'. Speyer is also home to my all-time favourite museum, the Technik, which has every mode of transport on display, from bicycles to a space shuttle. The charming town of Breisach is the gateway to an engaging included tour through the enchanted Black Forest to a hamlet where cuckoo clocks and the namesake gâteau are made. Then there's the spectacular Rhine Gorge, where the hillside castles and soaring churches come one after another – best enjoyed from the Sun Deck, with a commentary bringing the monuments to life. The authentic regional cuisine and live music on board the Viking Longship complement the chic modern comforts to be had on board. It's certainly a ship to luxuriate in, with its spacious staterooms, expansive, elegant suites, streamlined Scandinavian design and al fresco dining out on the deck. Our guide tells old tales of Kinderdijk, with its string of 19 handsome windmills built in the 18th century. Koblenz is a classic: pastel-coloured time-worn houses, cobbled lanes, enchanting churches and a colourful market square. Germany at its most picturesque is best found at Rüdesheim. The quirky taverns on and around Drosselgasse are perfect for people-watching with a glass of wine from a nearby estate. Heidelberg, on the River Neckar, a tributary of the Rhine, is unforgettable. Its huge castle dominates a hill above the river and the 18th-century bridge makes a perfect foreground for a photo. Viking offers an included excursion at almost every stop, plus a range of exciting options *. With the latter, you can discover other castles and palaces, further your knowledge of the local food and wine, explore by e-bike or climb up on the roof of a cathedral. Summer or winter? Choose one and I bet you'll return to savour the other. My unforgettable moments Infused with classic fairy tales, Germany's dense Black Forest is both romantic and mysterious. Everyone can join in Viking's included excursion from Breisach, taking the luxury coach along winding lanes, enjoying everchanging panoramas of wooded hills and lush pastures. At a hamlet hidden in the woods, you'll discover the history of cuckoo clocks, watch a glassblower and learn how to make the region's timeless gâteau. There is still enough time to follow a ravine through this captivating forest, imagining coming across Snow White or the Big Bad Wolf. The optional Beer Culture and Dinner excursion in Cologne is the perfect excuse to sample mouthwatering cuisine and beverages while immersing yourself in the cultural history of the German Purity Law, passed in 1516 to regulate beer production. In the company of a genial local host, you'll spend the evening hopping between traditional brauhauses, with generous helpings of the coveted kölsch beer and hearty food to soak it up.