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Time of India
2 hours ago
- Business
- Time of India
Is it still ‘profit vs planet' for brands?
Nicole Rycroft , founder and the force behind Canopy , a solutions-focused environmental not-for-profit, proudly describes herself as 'fun and sassy' with a hint of troublemaker. That's a fitting mix for someone who's convinced that some of the world's most iconic brands — from LVMH and H&M to Zara and Stella McCartney — need to rethink their impact on the planet. 'Fashion's pretty well positioned to make anything sexy — even supply chains and supply chain transformation,' she tells Brand Equity during a visit to Mumbai. Rycroft's Canopy has partnered with over 1,000 global brands —helping shift entire industries toward sustainable, next-gen alternatives that are better for forests, wildlife and the climate. Edited excerpts: What's your elevator pitch to some of the biggest brands? Large brands understand that sustainability is no longer just 'nice to have'; it's a 'must have'. Traditional take-make-waste models are increasingly volatile. As the climate crisis worsens, we're seeing more frequent and intense floods, wildfires. The conventional fibre baskets that their businesses were built on, are no longer reliable. Looking 15 years ahead, there must be an accelerated transition to more circular, next-gen alternatives built for the 21st century. How did we get into this supply chain mess? It started with the Industrial Revolution, with the idea that we could build an economy around the take-make-waste systems. We don't have the environmental 'bank account' to sustain this model — raw materials make up 85% of a brand's environmental footprint, and the waste created squanders natural and human resources. It's unsustainable. What's the first step that brands can take to fix this? One company, no matter how big, can't change an entire supply chain. We work with brands to develop policies. Fashion brands create a commitment. That means pledging not to source from high-carbon, high-biodiversity forests, which inherently pose business risks. It's about working with us — and with others — in a pre-competitive space to help scale next-gen circular solutions. What are the biggest challenges that brands face when integrating sustainability? Brands are juggling a lot. They need clarity on the most impactful sustainability choices and must accept that they can't transform supply chains on their own. So how do they create the market conditions for lower-impact materials to be available at scale, with the right price points and performance specs? That's where we come in — focussing not on small, exclusive runs, but on shifting the market to make sustainable materials accessible for all. What role does sustainability play in shaping a brand's identity in 2025? I started Canopy in 1999 — many grey hairs ago! Back then, brand executives weren't returning my calls. But now, they do. We are in a different time — both, socially and politically. People are more aware of climate change and biodiversity loss. They want to wear designs and support brands that reflect their values. We're seeing fashion lovers gravitate toward brands that integrate sustainability into their core. How can brands balance profitability with environmental responsibility? That's an outdated dichotomy — profit v. planet. Also, governments are banning deforestation-derived materials and requiring eco-design and recycled content. So, brands that delay the transition face increased risks and costs. Companies say customers won't pay more for sustainable options. Will this change with consumer education? While people claim in polls that they would pay more, at the checkout, it's a different story. But fashion, especially luxury, is different — consumers pay for exclusivity. Brands need to scale production so sustainable options don't carry a premium. Just like solar energy costs dropped by 90% in 10 years, we're studying that and applying it to textiles. Fast fashion and sustainability seem at odds. How do brands like Zara and H&M reconcile their business models with environmental goals? They were two of our earliest partners. They've helped shift viscose sourcing away from high carbon forests and have pushed their suppliers to improve. They're also collaborating with others to pioneer and scale next-gen materials. They know they have volume — and influence — and are trying to leverage it. As consumers, how should we read clothing labels? What should we look for? Actually, before looking at the label, ask: 'Do I really need this?' Then check the label — look for recycled content, organic cotton, next-gen fibres such as Circulose, CIRC, etc. Many brands highlight these on tags. Which industry, other than fashion and publishing, would you give a makeover to? Food and beverage. The industry uses a lot of paper packaging, which impacts forests. Plus, many of the food commodities have major land-use impacts. It's an area ripe for change.
Tatler Asia
2 hours ago
- Business
- Tatler Asia
Jonathan Anderson: When creative thinking becomes a sustainable luxury business strategy
Rather than simply designing seasonal collections, Anderson understood that a luxury brand must possess an enduring asset, a design language that transcends trends and translates across disciplines. Hence, the Puzzle bag is more than a hit accessory. It has become a cultural reference, spotted in contexts ranging from art installations to interior design. In an industry increasingly driven by speed and churn, Anderson pursued the opposite: a brand built to endure, where customers are drawn not by impulse but by a lasting aesthetic ethos. Luxury comes from craftsmanship Among luxury houses in the LVMH group, the common pursuit is scale. Anderson, however, chose another direction. He did not chase rapid expansion or quarterly spikes, but rather aimed to position Loewe as a discerning, almost elusive brand rooted in craftsmanship and admired by a refined clientele. A defining feature of Anderson's approach was embedding craftsmanship at the heart of the brand, not simply treating it as a talking point. The Loewe Craft Prize, for instance, is not a one-off campaign but a sustained initiative to build meaningful identity. Through such efforts, Loewe has distinguished itself and helped recast the narrative of modern luxury: no longer about rarity in material, but rarity in skill. Sustainable luxury strategy: An unconventional business model Instead of short-lived commercial pushes, Jonathan Anderson focused on constructing a creative architecture robust enough to outlast his tenure. This commitment is reflected in three core principles: Creating products with lasting value: Beyond the Puzzle bag, collections such as the Gate, Hammock, and ready-to-wear lines are designed with longevity in mind, rather than being discarded with each passing season. Connecting with contemporary culture: Anderson positioned Loewe not as a follower of trends, but as a contributor to wider cultural dialogue, engaging with art, architecture and sculpture, and earning a place among cultural connoisseurs. Prioritising quality over quantity: As many brands pursue broader appeal through mass-market ranges, Anderson maintained a focused, tightly curated strategy ensuring craftsmanship and customer experience remained paramount. Anderson's legacy: A creative model that can continue to evolve The question in the wake of Anderson's exit is not simply who will take the reins, but whether the distinctive strategy he has embedded will endure. In a luxury landscape often dictated by volume and immediacy, Anderson's work at Loewe offers a blueprint that few houses can follow—an approach driven by patience, intellect, and originality. NOW READ Micro time, macro impact: How microbrands are rewriting luxury watchmaking rules Anti-design: When ugliness becomes a manifesto of creatives defying traditional beauty The Shape of Memory: Humberto Campana's Dreamwork with Louis Vuitton
Time of India
2 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Time of India
BLACKPINK Lisa's Emmy nominated performance sparks fresh debate over boyfriend Frederic Arnault's influence: 'Lipsynced travesty'
The 2025 Emmy nominations are finally out, and while most headlines are focused on acclaimed dramas and streaming heavyweights, one unexpected nod is stirring up chatter online. A performance from the 2024 Oscars featuring BLACKPINK's Lisa has been nominated, not under her name, but her presence alone has reignited speculation about the role her boyfriend, Frederic Arnault, may have played in her rise in the global spotlight. Lisa's Oscar moment lands an Emmy nod but not for what fans think. The nomination in question falls under Outstanding Choreography for Variety or Reality Programming. The performance, a James Bond-themed tribute at the 2024 Oscars, was choreographed by Mandy Moore and featured a powerhouse trio: Lisa, Doja Cat, and Raye. While the Emmy nod rightfully credits Moore, Lisa's presence in the number has reignited the online debate that first flared up when the Oscars aired. EMMY NOMINATED PERFORMANCE Back then, critics questioned why Lisa, a K-pop idol with no prior acting roles or original Oscar-nominated tracks, had taken centre stage in such a high-profile segment. Some fans speculated that her relationship with Frederic Arnault, son of LVMH's CEO and a key executive himself, may have helped secure her spot, since LVMH was one of the event's major sponsors. Others felt she simply didn't 'earn' the spotlight, and now, the Emmy nomination has brought those discussions back. The White Lotus, Lisa's acting debut, racks up nominations too Interestingly, Lisa's name was also floated in Emmy conversations for her acting debut in the buzzy third season of The White Lotus, where she played the mysterious character Mook. The HBO series has emerged as the second-most-nominated show this year, pulling in an impressive 23 nominations, just behind the frontrunner Severance. While Lisa didn't individually land an acting nomination, many fans celebrated her inclusion in such a critically acclaimed series, marking a milestone in her transition from global pop star to Hollywood crossover talent. Internet brings back lip sync allegations Lisa's Oscar performance was highly contentious, with some users claiming the segment was pre-recorded and others accusing her of lip-syncing during the live broadcast. "The Emmy voters must be thrilled to honour choreography from a James Bond tribute that had half the audience asking, 'Wait, was that live?'" one user wrote. The Emmy voters must be thrilled to honor choreography from a James Bond tribute that had half the audience asking, "Wait, was that live?" "Does this make sense? I don't have any problems with Raye and Doja. But Lisa?" another user mentioned. Does this make sense? I don't have any problems with Raye and Doja. But Lisa? "Mind you, this lipsynced travesty is nominated in the same category as THEE BEYONCÉ BOWL," one user added. Mind you this lipsynced travesty in nominated in the same category as THEE BEYONCÉ BOWL However, some fans also came out in her defence, with one mentioning, "Before losers start crying, shaking, and throwing up in the QTs, shout out to the CHOREOGRAPHER for her well-deserved nomination—the execution was immaculate!" before losers start crying shaking throwing up in the qts shout out to the CHOREOGRAPHER for her well deserved nomination- the execution was immaculate! "The award goes to the choreographer of the performance, and there are already misogynistic people saying that LISA paid for this. Like, can you think before commenting stupid things?" wrote another user. The award goes to the choreographer of the performance and there are already misogynistic people saying that LISA paid for can you think before commenting stupid things? Meanwhile, Lisa is currently lighting up stages on BLACKPINK's DEADLINE World Tour alongside bandmates Jennie, Rosé, and Jisoo, earning praise for her show-stopping performances and stage presence at every stop. For all the latest K-drama, K-pop, and Hallyuwood updates, keep following our coverage here.
Fashion Network
10 hours ago
- Business
- Fashion Network
Givenchy recruits Zhao Liying as new global beauty ambassador
The Lanfang, Hebei-born actor began her career in 2006 after winning a talent contest and quickly gained attention with roles in "Legend of Lu Zhen" (2013), and "Boss & Me" (2014). Most recently, the actress starred in the 2025 film "We Girls", a crime drama directed by Feng Xiaogang. Marking the partnership, a new Givenchy beauty campaign shows the Chinese star wearing the Parisian brand's new Le Rouge Velvet Matte lipstick in almond terracotta. The appointment comes as the LVMH -owned Givenchy looks to freshen up the image of its makeup vertical and inevitably boost sales. In its most recent trading update in April, LVMH logged a 3% drop in first-quarter sales, missing expectations and confirming a broader sector slowdown as shoppers pulled back on designer fashion amid a volatile economic climate.
Fashion Network
11 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Givenchy recruits Zhao Liying as new global beauty ambassador
Givenchy on Tuesday revealed Chinese actress Zhao Liying as its new global beauty brand ambassador, the first celebrity partnership since Sarah Burton took the creative reigns of the French brand in September. The 37-year-old star is known for her leading roles in Chinese day-time dramas such as 'The Journey of Flower" (2015), 'The Story of Minglan' (2018), and 'Wild Bloom" (2022), which saw her earn a 'Best Actress' award for her performance as Xu Banxia. Zhao is no stranger to the silver screen either, having starred in films "Duckweed" (2017), "The Monkey King 3" (2018), and "Article 20," released last year. The Lanfang, Hebei-born actor began her career in 2006 after winning a talent contest and quickly gained attention with roles in "Legend of Lu Zhen" (2013), and "Boss & Me" (2014). Most recently, the actress starred in the 2025 film "We Girls", a crime drama directed by Feng Xiaogang. Marking the partnership, a new Givenchy beauty campaign shows the Chinese star wearing the Parisian brand's new Le Rouge Velvet Matte lipstick in almond terracotta. The appointment comes as the LVMH -owned Givenchy looks to freshen up the image of its makeup vertical and inevitably boost sales.
