Is it still ‘profit vs planet' for brands?

Time of India

6 days ago

Nicole Rycroft
, founder and the force behind
Canopy
, a solutions-focused environmental not-for-profit, proudly describes herself as 'fun and sassy' with a hint of troublemaker. That's a fitting mix for someone who's convinced that some of the world's most iconic brands — from LVMH and H&M to Zara and Stella McCartney — need to rethink their impact on the planet.
'Fashion's pretty well positioned to make anything sexy — even supply chains and supply chain transformation,' she tells Brand Equity during a visit to Mumbai.
Rycroft's Canopy has partnered with over 1,000 global brands —helping shift entire industries toward sustainable, next-gen alternatives that are better for forests, wildlife and the climate.
Edited excerpts:
What's your elevator pitch to some of the biggest brands?
Large brands understand that sustainability is no longer just 'nice to have'; it's a 'must have'. Traditional take-make-waste models are increasingly volatile. As the climate crisis worsens, we're seeing more frequent and intense floods, wildfires. The conventional fibre baskets that their businesses were built on, are no longer reliable. Looking 15 years ahead, there must be an accelerated transition to more circular, next-gen alternatives built for the 21st century.
How did we get into this supply chain mess?
It started with the Industrial Revolution, with the idea that we could build an economy around the take-make-waste systems. We don't have the environmental 'bank account' to sustain this model — raw materials make up 85% of a brand's environmental footprint, and the waste created squanders natural and human resources. It's unsustainable.
What's the first step that brands can take to fix this?
One company, no matter how big, can't change an entire supply chain. We work with brands to develop policies. Fashion brands create a commitment. That means pledging not to source from high-carbon, high-biodiversity forests, which inherently pose business risks. It's about working with us — and with others — in a pre-competitive space to help scale next-gen circular solutions.
What are the biggest challenges that brands face when integrating sustainability?
Brands are juggling a lot. They need clarity on the most impactful sustainability choices and must accept that they can't transform supply chains on their own. So how do they create the market conditions for lower-impact materials to be available at scale, with the right price points and performance specs? That's where we come in — focussing not on small, exclusive runs, but on shifting the market to make
sustainable materials
accessible for all.
What role does sustainability play in shaping a brand's identity in 2025?
I started Canopy in 1999 — many grey hairs ago! Back then, brand executives weren't returning my calls. But now, they do. We are in a different time — both, socially and politically. People are more aware of climate change and biodiversity loss. They want to wear designs and support brands that reflect their values. We're seeing fashion lovers gravitate toward brands that integrate sustainability into their core.
How can brands balance profitability with environmental responsibility?
That's an outdated dichotomy — profit v. planet. Also, governments are banning deforestation-derived materials and requiring eco-design and recycled content. So, brands that delay the transition face increased risks and costs.
Companies say customers won't pay more for sustainable options. Will this change with consumer education?
While people claim in polls that they would pay more, at the checkout, it's a different story. But fashion, especially luxury, is different — consumers pay for exclusivity. Brands need to scale production so sustainable options don't carry a premium. Just like solar energy costs dropped by 90% in 10 years, we're studying that and applying it to textiles.
Fast fashion and sustainability seem at odds. How do brands like Zara and H&M reconcile their business models with environmental goals?
They were two of our earliest partners. They've helped shift viscose sourcing away from high carbon forests and have pushed their suppliers to improve. They're also collaborating with others to pioneer and scale next-gen materials. They know they have volume — and influence — and are trying to leverage it.
As consumers, how should we read clothing labels? What should we look for?
Actually, before looking at the label, ask: 'Do I really need this?' Then check the label — look for recycled content, organic cotton, next-gen fibres such as Circulose, CIRC, etc. Many brands highlight these on tags.
Which industry, other than fashion and publishing, would you give a makeover to?
Food and beverage. The industry uses a lot of paper packaging, which impacts forests. Plus, many of the food commodities have major land-use impacts. It's an area ripe for change.