Venice's food is tasteless, but I know a European city that does it right

Metro

07-05-2025

In the fourth installment of Metro Travel Hot Takes , Patrycja Zaras argues that the Polish city of her birth puts Venice's food scene to shame.
Is anything more universally beloved than Italian cuisine? It's like a hug from a long-distance friend: familiar, comforting, and made with love.
I was disappointed, then, to find nothing of the sort in Venice, Italy's floating city and one of its most popular holiday destinations.
At least not for the average Joe. I'm sure the Angelina Jolies and George Clooneys of the world would beg to differ when they roll into town for the annual Film Festival — Venice boasts 62 Michelin-starred restaurants.
But for a budget traveller like me, who's been to the City of Masks many times, its food has never left a positive impression.
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I've travelled to Italy many times in recent years, and I've come to expect the kind of meals that remind you, no matter how many times you try to recreate them at home, they'll never taste the same.
But from pasta to tiramisu, and the greatest of all Italian delicacies, arancini, Venice keeps letting me down.
On more than one occasion, I've been served pizza so thin, bland and flavourless, I'll admit it: I reached for the salt.
In Venice, waiters have served me food that has all the joy of a wet napkin, miserable fare that I'll gladly accept from 24-hour kebab joints. But from mid-range restaurants with sky-high prices? Per favore, Venezia .
And that's without complaining about coperto , the infamous cover charge that could see €20 or more added to your bill just for the privilege of sitting in places like St Mark's Square.
I'm sure hidden gems exist – this is Italy, after all – but they sure do a good job of hiding.
This isn't to say that you shouldn't visit Venice – it's a magnificent city and a true architectural masterpiece.
On TikTok, dozens of videos are devoted to helping visitors avoid tourist traps. There are tips for under-the-radar gelato shops, and hole-in-the-wall cannoli spots that won't require you to remortgage your flat.
But even still, the pickings are slim. Just don't expect mind-blowing food if you're travelling on a budget.
If that's what you're after, a recommendation that might surprise you is Warsaw, the place where I was born.
As shy and unassuming as big cities get, Poland's capital has been quietly climbing the culinary rankings over the past decade.
Just a few years ago, the idea of a food trip to Poland would be met with raised eyebrows. Now, it's being called one of Eastern Europe's most exciting food scenes by esteemed voices at The FT, Forbes, and The Guardian.
Having lived there for 19 years, I can confirm that Warsaw's culinary scene is full of surprises, with everything from Japanese to Middle Eastern and creative vegan kitchens.
Not big on meat? The city regularly appears in global rankings of vegan-friendly cities. My personal favourite for a budget-friendly green feast is Peaches, a trendy spot with
Their menu changes constantly, but one thing that's here to stay is the grilled oyster mushrooms glazed in muscovado. Rich, smoky, and just the right kind of sticky, it's easily the best vegan dish I've ever eaten, and I've had my fair share over the years.
Another unmissable joint is Joel. Every dish, from cloud-like hummus to roasted cauliflower, slow-cooked lamb to silky labneh, is cooked and presented to perfection.
And it's all served in a candle-lit, vibey space that sets the tone for a memorable meal. Check out some more 'locals only' tips below:
Joel Sharing Concept – the one I always come back to. Joel offers a modern twist on Middle Eastern cuisine, presented in a trendy sharing-plates concept. It's the owners' passion project, and you can taste the love in every dish. Whether you go veggie or meaty, you'll be thinking about it for days.
Peaches – they call themselves 'the best vegan food in Warsaw' for a reason. One visit and you'll forget everything you thought you knew about vegan cooking. Even the staunchest sceptic will be swayed. What they do with fruit and veg is simply magical.
Vegan Ramen Shop – a legend on Warsaw's food map. Ask anyone under 30 in Poland where to eat in the capital, and this is likely the first place they'll mention. It's earned near-mythical status for a reason.
Eden Bistro – ever wanted to dine in an enchanted garden? This is your chance. Tucked away in the posh Saska Kępa district, Eden is part garden, part 1928 modernist villa. Once an artists' residence, now a place for slow lunches and long dinners. Ask for a table in the greenhouse and thank me later.
Happa to mame – a Japanese café that invites you to slow down. It's the kind of space that wraps around you with its dark interior, low tables, a quiet calm that feels like a perfect escape from the city's chaos. Their matcha is among the best you'll find in Warsaw.
If you're like Kerri Kenney-Silver's character in The Four Seasons and just don't fancy a trip to Poland, there's another option: Puglia.
This lesser-visited Italian region offers far better food for far less money.
Its biggest city, Bari, is both charming and full of fantastic restaurants – and flights from the UK start from just £48 return. More Trending
Another option just an hour from Venice is Bassano del Grappa, which has all the same charm without the crowds and price gouging.
Clarissa Cappelletti, international country manager at WeRoad, says it's an excellent choice for travellers looking for something beyond Italy's mainstream tourist hubs.
'Bassano del Grappa is a charming and underrated destination,' she tells Metro. 'It's particularly appealing for those on a road trip, as it sits conveniently between major cities like Venice and Padua while offering a quieter, more authentic experience.'
So how about we give Venice a break and let it breathe a bit? Even its mayor is asking us to.
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