How folksy grandad became the coolest guy in fashion
SS Daley, the cult British brand launched by fashion wunderkind Steven Stokey-Daley and famed for its bird-watching shirts and farmyard knitwear, is launching at John Lewis on 19 May. It's a strategic move by the retailer to boost its fashion credentials – Harry Styles is such a fan of the house that he became a 'minority stake' investor. The goldfish jumper featured in the John Lewis collection looks as if it could have been knitted from a pattern and wool found in the store's beloved haberdashery department, which epitomises the founder's nostalgic sensibilities and the modern perspective he brings to eccentric, heritage dressing.
SS Daley Archie Lambswool Fish Zip-Through Knit in Blue Fish, £525, John Lewis
The makers themselves are at the heart of this homespun trend and no one epitomises this better than British brand Folk, which this spring celebrates its 25th anniversary with an archive collection that celebrates nostalgic design. To reiterate the focus on the artisan, it is also collaborating with five creatives to create special artworks inspired by the humble pencil. Another British brand that deserves an honourable mention is Story MFG – Zak Maoui, style director of Gentleman's Journal, says it is 'the label that comes to mind most for this look', as he believes 'it's the UK's answer to Bode, and is perhaps even better when it comes to its attention to craftsmanship'.
'It's not hard to see these craft-focused brands as an antidote to the digital age: something that's not fast fashion, covered in logos, and has at least some evidence of the human hand,' explains Johnny Davis, style director at Esquire. 'These clothes have an individuality, a meaning and they invite conversation.' It's also part of a wave of anti-algorithm styling – Maoui explains this is a direct protest against Shein and Boohoo's conveyor belt of polyester.
The spiralling cost of luxury fashion is also sparking a renewed appreciation for the art of making clothes. 'I think we're seeing more and more people wake up to the fact that just because something is the most expensive brand doesn't necessarily mean that it's the best-made product,' says Liam Hess, American Vogue 's senior lifestyle editor. With brands like Bode, Story MFG or By Walid, 'you really feel like you're spending that money getting something unique and truly special, as opposed to a jacket from a conglomerate-owned brand that is produced in its thousands'. Hess also notes that not only is the attention to detail higher, but 'their business practices are generally more sustainable, and you're supporting an independent brand in the process'.
While a Bode quilted shirt costs around £700 (enough to make an original folk grandad spit out their ginger tea), you can also master the look on a charity shop budget. 'The cool thing about this folksy, craft-led trend is that if you're into it, you can achieve the look by investing some time to scour vintage stores and eBay,' adds Hess. 'It's fun that it feels more democratic.' Plus, visible repairs and imperfections only add to the charm. 'Nothing says folksy grandad like something well-worn and mended,' adds Will Halbert, menswear writer. 'Invest in good vintage – that way, most of the mileage and natural patina is done for you – and remember that scuffs and scars are character building, as is learning how to sew on a button.'
It does, however, require considered styling so that you don't actually look like Nicholas Hoult in About A Boy. 'Stick to one statement garment that leans into the trend,' advises Maoui. 'Going too OTT will make you, as with anything, look costume-like and pretentious.' Davis agrees that it's essential you 'avoid the crime of everything at once'. There is such a thing as too much craft, so don't mix patchwork with embroidery with novelty knits, or you will rapidly enter into retired art teacher territory.
'Your grandad has always dressed better than you, it just took you this long to see it,' quips Halbert, who notes that 'the gorp-core hangover is real and skinny-fit fatigue is at full peak', so people are experimenting with looser silhouettes and returning to natural fabrics. 'The rises are getting higher, the legs are getting wider, and people are having more fun with denser textures and less conventional volumes,' he explains.
SS Daley Clarence Cotton Blend Trousers in Yellow, £525, John Lewis
You do need to exercise some caution when it comes to the volume, however, in order to not look like an actual grandad. 'Lots of these pieces are cut big, with natural volume, so don't lean into that,' advises Davis. 'Don't tuck shirts in, or overly layer up accessories and other distracting items.' Take the mustard yellow SS Daley trousers that you can buy at John Lewis, which have a curved, tapered leg and lots of excess fabric at the knee, for example. Davis advises you style these with a structured coat or jacket on top to focus attention on the voluminous shape of the trousers, which is 'the point of them'.
The idea is to bring a youthful energy and a wink and a nod to once dusty, grandad staples. 'Harry Styles is a good person to look at, as he gives folksy dressing a modern edge, wearing band tees with cardigans and Bode shorts,' says Maoui, along with Saltburn 's Jacob Elordi who 'loves an oversized cardi'. These stars are ushering in a more playful approach to menswear, with clothing that invites conversation and has a sense of humour. If a mallard jumper can't spark some interesting chat, then what can?
Folksy grandad brands to discover
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