Anticipated downtown cafe now open with biscuit sandwiches, horchata coffee
Owner Kevin Lee set out to build a space that would fulfill quick needs for office workers while also providing a daytime destination in the downtown core. He kicked things off with just drinks and pastries on April 14, building to include sandwiches on April 21. This week, he'll introduce the lunch menu.
Core to the offerings are square biscuits in classic butter-only and cheddar-chive. They are appropriately sturdy for handhelds that range from a bacon, egg and cheese to a vegetarian choice with fresh guacamole. For more of a snack, grab one for $5 with another housemade specialty: strawberry jam.
The pastry case here is another compelling reason to choose Third Space, as Lee was very intentional in partnering with other local food and drink businesses. From Lobo Bakery, indulge in a selection of laminated pastries ($6) ranging from an almond croissant to a seasonal number most recently filled with lemon-laced rhubarb. Don't sleep on the cruffins, especially the churro number filled with dulce de leche. The Common Cookie, based in Sumner, has delivered a series of sumptuous treats ($5.50) that happen to be gluten-free, such as the macadami-banana and the glazed blueberry-lemon which was reminiscent of a muffin in all the best ways.
Coffee, of course, is a draw, and the beans come from just a mile away at Naomi Joe inside 7 Seas Brewing's Tacoma taproom. (Naomi Joe Coffee is also one of the only other ways to secure Lobo pastries outside of a few farmers markets.)
In addition to the usual espresso drinks, house specialties highlight subtly sweet syrups that Lee and his staff also make on site. Try the Orange Spice latte, finished with real zest, or the horchata with a creamy cinnamon boost.
One special note: Like most coffee shops today, Third Space keeps cow's milk and alternatives in the fridge, but you won't pay extra for the latter. Whether you need to be dairy-free or prefer it, Lee doesn't think it should cost you more.
Lee started working on the former Pita Pit space late last year. Thank goodness he got rid of the bright-green and dark-gray paint, refreshing it with a cool midnight blue and swapping the pendant lighting for mod-style frosted globes with gold accents. He kept the footprint of the kitchen that now feels less like a fast-food operation than a modern open kitchen with a wood-slat base and quartz countertop, behind which you can see staff cracking eggs right onto the griddle.
Seating aims to satisfy various needs. Have a quick meeting at the lounge area in one of the street-facing windows. Take a coworker or friend to lunch at one of the tables along a banquette. Grab a quick bite at a high-top.
The big mural on the main wall with characters eating, working and chatting showcases the Third Space mentality as 'a place to socialize that's not home or work,' as Lee described it last fall.
He left his management job at Beecher's Cheese to open his own business, taking after his parents who ran a couple of cafes in downtown Tacoma when he was growing up. The Third Space Instagram page has amassed more than 21,000 followers in just a few short months, thanks in part to his deep-dive 'Starting My Own Cafe' video series.
Over 31 episodes so far, he has documented everything from permitting with the Tacoma-Pierce County Health Department and sharing his vision with the graphic designer behind the shop's cute branding, to picking paint colors and perfecting recipes. He visited equipment providers, walking through rows of espresso machines and coffee grinders, and got the low-down from the technician who fixed the walk-in cooler. Along the way, he also divulged detailed numbers — down to the cent — in a rare behind-the-scenes of what it really takes to start a small food business. Think nearly $26,000 plus a loan for every piece of coffee equipment.
After the inaugural week, just with coffee and pastries, he said the cafe brought in a little more than $5,300 in sales. Then he broke down the cost of goods (about $1,600), labor (around $1,700) and weekly rent ($980). On paper, that lands about $1,040 in profit — before other expenses such as internet, utilities and loans, he explained.
'I think it's safe to say we're probably in the negative this week,' Lee said in that April 20 video, but 'for this week, the most important thing is not our numbers, but that we were able to get open to serve you and have such amazing people come through our doors.'
As Third Space settles in, look for the menu to evolve into lunchier sandwiches and salads, with later hours and weekend service possible.
▪ 921 Pacific Ave., Tacoma, thirdspacetacoma.com
▪ Current hours: Monday-Friday 8 a.m.-3 p.m.
▪ Details: new cafe with local coffee, pastries and house biscuits, sandwiches and salads; weekend hours anticipated in coming months

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