I Simplified My Skin Care Routine, and I'm Obsessed With the Results
Ahead, a look at my simplified six-step skin care routine. If you're considering a similar approach, here's a little food for thought from Dr. Shokeen: 'A streamlined routine promotes better adherence to essential steps that give you the biggest improvement, leading to consistent care and improved skin health over time.'
Step One: Cleanser
The French approach to cleansing—or rather, not cleansing—kick-started my simplified regimen. Turns out not washing my face in the morning was a helpful way to keep my skin soft and balanced. I found a healthy sweeping of micellar water across my skin in the morning useful then a double cleanse at night to remove all traces of makeup.
Bioderma's micellar water quickly and effectively lifts dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin. It's become my go-to in place of a morning face wash and is incredibly useful for removing mascara traces. Just douse a cotton round, wipe, and go. No H2O necessary.
I didn't like cleansing oils until I tried this one by La Roche-Posay. It's almost like an oil-meets-gel texture that lathers into a soft foam that's gentle on skin. Plus, it's enriched with the brand's prebiotic thermal spring water, niacinamide, and shea butter so as not to strip skin of its essential oils. Bioderma Sensibio H2O Micellar Water, AED90 La Roche-Posay Lipikar AP+ Gentle Foaming Cleansing Oil, AED100
Step Two: Toner & Essence
Toners and essences are essential to any Korean skin care routine. Alicia Yoon, Korean skin care expert and founder of Peach & Lily, previously explained that the former is designed to balance skin's pH, while the latter boosts hydration levels. Both help skin absorb any skin care products that follow and promote plump, luminous skin. That said, I have been testing an array of hydrating toners and am sure to use one of the below morning and night.
The Base Face Milk is one of my absolute favorite Ilia launches ever. My skin seriously loves this stuff. Not only is it lightweight and never ever pills, but it's also full of good-for-skin ingredients—hyaluronic acid, prickly-pear-flower extract, and squalane—that improve the look and feel. I like to use this when my skin is on the drier side and requires a little extra moisture before face cream.
A Korean essence meets a French toner, Eadem's Cashmere Peel is the best of both worlds. A 9% blend of AHA/PHAs (lactic, azelaic, and tranexamic acid, plus gluconolactone) unclog pores for smoother skin, while rice water and colloidal oatmeal extract keep skin nourished and plump. Ilia The Base Face Milk, AED235 EADEM Cashmere Peel Gentle Exfoliating AHA & PHA Toner, AED170
Step Three: Morning Serum
Vitamin C is one of the most acclaimed skin-brightening, antioxidant ingredients out there—the 'gold standard' as Alabama-based board-certified dermatologist Corey L. Hartman puts it. So, true to his advice, I prioritize incorporating it into my morning regimen. Consistent with my hydration agenda, I also like to incorporate a hyaluronic-acid serum. Each morning I'll use one or the other.
As an oily-skin girl, SkinCeuticals Silymarin CF is perfect for me. It uses L-ascorbic acid, silymarin, ferulic acid, and salicylic acid to reduce excess oil production, refine pores, and protect against free-radical damage.
I'm quite fond of Bioeffect's EGF Serum. Formulated with just seven ingredients, this is led by the power of epidermal growth factors known to boost collagen production for more youthful skin. SkinCeuticals Silymarin CF, AED758 BIOEFFECT EGF Serum, AED581
Step Three: Night Serum
At night, I basically swap my morning serums for my night serums. This is when I incorporate the best retinol creams or any exfoliating treatment my skin might need. I've found it useful to do these treatments at night to sandwich between a toner and a generous dollop of moisturizer.
Thank you, Issa Rae, for putting me on to OleHenriksen's Dewtopia. As the Emmy-nominated star says, this limits my breakouts like no other, thanks to potent concentrations of AHAs and PHAs. I like to apply this on my forehead and cheeks only, where I tend to get blemishes. (Remember: You do not have to use every product all over your face!)
Instead of leaving my skin tingling and taut, Elemis's toner pads keep my skin calm and comfortable. Perhaps we have the featured shea butter to thank for that, pairing the conditioning ingredient with lactic acid and papaya enzyme known for their resurfacing properties. Ole Henriksen Dewtopia 20% Acid Night Treatment, AED265 Elemis Dynamic Resurfacing Facial Pads, AED239
Step Four: Moisturiser
If I were stranded on a desert island with only one product, it would be face moisturiser. (I think.) The below lock in hydration and, thanks to intelligent formulations, offer multipurpose benefits like softening skin texture and smoothing wrinkles. My face moisturiser is essential to seal in all the goodness from the toners and serums that preceded it.
A TikTok find that's certainly worth the hype, I've been loving this collagen-boosting jelly cream lately. Even dermatologist Dr. Dara Spearman is a fan: 'this is beneficial for those with dry or aging skin, as it helps improve elasticity and promotes long-lasting hydration,' she previously told Vogue .
I prefer a really lush PM moisturizer, and Irene Forte's Hibiscus Night Cream is just the ticket. The elixir features peptides, ceramides, shea butter, hyaluronic acid, and omega-rich oils—all things that reinforce skin's moisture barrier and deliver smoother, bouncier skin come morning. Medicube Collagen Jelly Cream, AED159 Irene Forte Hibiscus Night Cream, AED777
Step Five: Sunscreen
I'm not particularly fussy about sunscreen. I just look for something with a SPF level of at least 50 and a creamy, cast-free white finish. Oh, and because I'm wearing it in the AM, it needs to sink into skin and sit well under makeup.
Dare I say Chanel's UV Essentiel is the most underrated facial sunscreen? The girlies in the Vogue office can be heard gabbing about it all day long. It has a mid-cream texture that imparts a subtle glow—not to mention it's safe for sensitive skin.
No matter how many innovative sunscreens I try, I keep coming back to this La Roche-Posay formula. Anthelios Ultra Light is so milky it almost feels like a serum—and leaves skin with a natural matte finish that feels comfortable all day long. Chanel UV Essentiel Sunscreen, AED270 La Roche Posay Anthelios Ultra Light Fluid Facial Sunscreen, AED165
Step Six: The Add-Ons
Though I'm certainly relishing in my simplified routine, I welcome the occasional skincare treatment. Experts wax poetically about the benefits of red light therapy, so I'm sure to do a treatment at least once a week. You can also find me trying a more tailored treatment when my skin needs an SOS—think clarifying masks or depuffing solutions that have the power to transform skin in a matter of minutes.
Dr. Dennis Gross's LED face mask is my go-to because it offers both red light for anti-aging and blue light for acne. 'Patients often report more even tone and less redness after a few weeks of use. It's FDA-cleared and offers great cumulative benefits when used regularly (three to five times per week),' board-certified nurse practitioner Vanessa Coppola previously said of the device.
I swear by a good facial massage to stimulate blood flow and reduce puffiness. My favorite is this roller by Joanna Czech, which mimics the master facialist's signature massage technique. Dr Dennis Gross Spectralite FaceWare Pro, AED1,683 Joanna Czech Facial Massager, AED875
What is the optimal simplified skin-care routine? AccordionItemContainerButton
'I love a simple skin-care routine because it significantly increases the chance that the person is going to do it consistently, myself included,' double board-certified female facial plastic surgeon Dr. Angela Sturm says. For her, your routine should have at least three things: a gentle cleanser, a moisturizer (lightweight if you have oily skin, thicker if you have dry skin), and and sunscreen (ideally mineral, using zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, with an SPF of at least 30).
Then, you can add in one anti-aging product suited to you skin's needs. 'If you have brown spots and are in the sun, vitamin C in the morning can help lighten the spots and protect your skin,' she continues. 'If you have fine lines or acne, a retinol or retinoid at night can help improve your texture. If you have dry skin, a moisturizing anti-aging product with growth factors or peptides can help moisturize and improve the skin quality.'
What is the correct order of skincare for beginners? AccordionItemContainerButton
'If you're just starting your skin-care journey, think of it as building a wardrobe of basics, you need simple pieces before you can layer and accessorize,' Shirazi tells. 'A simple, effective philosophy of mine is cleanse, treat, protect. Here is what that looks like.'
Cleanse: 'Start with a gentle cleanser, this clears the canvas, allowing your next steps to absorb more effectively,' she says.
Treat: 'This step targets specific skin concerns like dullness, fine lines, or uneven tone,' Shirazi explains. 'Using actives like vitamin C or retinol (depending on the time of day) are applied during this step.'
Protect: 'During the day finish your routine with a broad-spectrum sunscreen, SPF 30 or higher,' she says. 'At night, finish your routine with a nourishing moisturizer to support your skin's overnight renewal.' AccordionItemContainerButton
Dr. Brendan Camp, MD, is a double board-certified dermatologist and dermatopathologist who sees patients in New York and Long Island.
Dr. Azadeh Shirazi is a board-certified dermatologist based in La Jolla, California.
Dr. Divya Shokeen is a California-based, board-certified dermatologist at the Ocean Skin and Vein Institute.
Dr. Angela Sturm is a Houston-based double board-certified female facial plastic surgeon.
Article originally published on Vogue US
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