Roger Dubuis And Patek Philippe:A Tale Of Two Grand Complications
Patek Philippe Ref. 5308G Quadruple Complication.
A grand complication is the Triathlete of the watch world. To qualify, it must achieve three major feats of watchmaking all in one package. That means it should have a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar and either a chronograph or a tourbillon. Combining these functions in one super watch is a longstanding tradition in the world of high horology. Two examples of a grand complication, both introduced at Watches and Wonders earlier this month, demonstrate how modern design codes are changing a genre that has been around for more than a century. Roger Dubuis's Excalibur Grand Complication and Patek Philippe's Ref. 5308G perform similar functions, and both are contemporary expressions of the grand comp, but the similarity ends there.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5308G Quadruple Complication.
Aside from timekeeping, Patek Philippe Ref. 5308G has a minute repeater, a split seconds chronograph and a perpetual calendar. Patek Philippe is famous for all three complications, particularly chronograph/perpetual calendar combinations. The dial architecture of the iconic Patek Philippe chronograph/perpetual calendar was established in 1941 with the famous Ref. 1518, (versions of which now cost seven and eight figures at auction). It stayed much the same right up to its current perpetual calendar/chronograph model, the Ref. 5720, and most examples by other brands followed the traditional layout it established: day and month appear lined up side by side in windows at the top of the dial. Subdials at 9 and 3 provide chronograph hour and minute counters, and the date index surrounds the moonphase at 6.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 set the design code for a perpetual calendar/chronograph.
The 5308G is not that. It modernizes the way we read those functions, with day, date and month set in windows that form an arc at the top of the dial. The chronograph minutes and hour counters occupy the 3 and 9 positions, but in reverse, and with a modern font, and the ice blue dial gives it a pure 2025 vibe. The dial color is the year's strongest trend in luxury watches. The 5308G also has a state-of-the-art movement with several patents, and because it adds a split seconds function to the chronograph, Patek counts that as a fourth complication, referring to it as a Quadruple Complication. It is not limited, but it is expensive, with a price tag (in Swiss francs) of CHF 1,050,000.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication.
The Roger Dubuis is another version of a grand complication that is even more aggressively modern, but also steeped in tradition. The first watch Roger Dubuis produced when he started his brand in 1995 was a a bi-retrograde perpetual calendar, the first time anyone had designed a perpetual calendar that way. The new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication revives the signature bi-retrograde display and adds a flying tourbillon and a minute repeater for a full-on high-watchmaking spectacle.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication.
The day appears on the retrograde index at left, and the date unfurls on the right side of the dial, with month on a disk at 12 o'clock and the flying tourbillon taking position at six. The dial is openworked, not just because of the modern aesthetic, but to demonstrate its high-watchmaking finish. It is made to Geneva Seal standards, which means every inch of it is finished and decorated in some way – with brushed surfaces, polished chamfers and something called coin rentrant, which means that inner angles of the bridges are beveled and polished to perfection, a task that takes years of training. Flip the watch over, where the finish is just as perfect, and you can see the gong and hammers of the minute repeater.
Caseback of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication.
Despite these very traditional nuances, the Excalibur Grande Complication has a completely modern look, with its crenelated bezel, triple lugs, skeleton hands and edgy rose gold and black color scheme. It will be made in a limited edition of eight pieces, priced at $691,000.
Hashtags
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Forbes
28-05-2025
- Forbes
Patek Philippe And Rolex On The Block At New York Watch Auction: XII
Aurel Bacs auctioneering lot 18 for CHF 5.5 million during The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is gearing up for another extraordinary two-day event: The New York Watch Auction: XII. Slated for June 7 and 8, it comprises 144 lots that represent both legacy brands and independent watchmakers, with more than a few pieces being offered publicly for the first time. The lots may be previewed on June 4 through 6 at 432 Park Avenue, where the auction will take place. Patek Philippe Ref. 1518. There's plenty to draw a watch lover in, from the impressively preserved 18-karat yellow gold Patek Philippe Ref. 1518, which has remained in the same collection for close to 40 years, to a Rolex Daytona gifted to Formula One legend Jean-Pierre Jabouille on the occasion of his Grand Prix win in 1979. The Rolex , Ref. 6265, features a caseback engraving that reads, 'DIE TO DRIVE – RENAULT F1 -J.P.J. 79.' Another Rolex is up for sale: the Cosmograph Daytona 'Rainbow' – a gem-set stunner that features flawless sapphires and other gemstones, perfectly cut and fitted on the bezel without prongs. The lugs are set with diamonds and the dial features pavé diamonds. There are very few Rainbow variants in pink gold – and this one is in virtually brand-new condition. The first commercially sold Biver Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater is included in the remarkable auction lineup. Here crafted in titanium, it is a stunning representation of contemporary haute horology that melds classical craftsmanship with acoustical engineering, as evidenced by the carillon that features three hammers striking three gongs on three distinct notes. This numbered watch is the first piece produced after the original prototype, which was offered by Phillips in 2023. The prototype sold for CHF 1,270,000. Independent watchmaker F.P. Journe is well represented. The stainless steel Répétition Souveraine, an ultra-thin minute repeater with a translucent dial, is offered here by its original owner. Another, the unique Chronomètre à Resonance Piece Unique by Harry Winston x F. P. Journe combines elements of Harry Winston's Maximillian Busser-championed Opus One with Journe's signature visuals. This uber-dressy watch features a black dial and well-placed diamonds on the bezel, lugs and dial. Patek Philippe – a highly sought-after brand at auction (or anywhere) – is making numerous appearances. Note the pink gold chronograph, Ref. 530, which is one of only about 140 examples produced (and only 30 in pink gold) and the rare Ref. 570 with a three-tone dial and applied Breguet numerals. Coveted marques like A. Lange & Sohne, Omega, and Audemars Piguet are also on the roster. As a point of reference, the Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, held May 10 and 11 in Switzerland, was a distinguished event with 188 lots sold, totaling $52,196,552. The top lot was the Breguet Pendule Sympathique Clock No. 1, built by F.P. Journe and Techniques Horlogères Appliquées in 1991. It sold for CHF 5,505,000. More recent still, Phillips achieved a total of over $27 million at the The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX, held May 23 to 25. This surpasses the pre-sale high estimate of $23,121,745. A possibly unique Patek Philippe Ref. 5970P-013 in platinum led the sale, achieving a hammer price of over $1.29 million.
Elle
16-05-2025
- Elle
The Reformation x Jimmy Fairly Collab Is Back—Shop It Now
Every item on this page was chosen by an ELLE editor. We may earn commission on some of the items you choose to buy. Looking around the office while writing this piece, I realized that pretty much all of the ELLE editors—myself included—are wearing a pair of Jimmy Fairly opticals. So, naturally, we were all thrilled to hear that the French sunglasses brand is teaming up with Reformation for a second season. 'We rarely repeat collaborations, but our 2024 collection with Jimmy Fairly sold out so quickly that we wanted to bring it back for those who missed out,' says Lauren Caris Cohan, Reformation's Chief Creative Officer. 'Customers were emailing us for months after asking us to restock their favorite styles—Coline, Brune, and Flore were all bestsellers last year .' One of our favorite dress brands of all time, Ref has slowly but surely expanded its remit to include shoes, handbags and now sunglasses over the years. We mean slowly because, lets not forget, the LA-based label is all about sustainability. Aside from making effortlessly cool pieces, at reasonable prices, that customers can't get enough of, this is of course what Ref and Jimmy Fairly have in common: they both care about the planet. Nope, even eyewear hasn't been spared greenwashing in today's market, which means finding eco-friendly sunglasses is generally difficult, confusing, and decidedly unstylish. SHOP REF X JIMMY FAIRLY What you need to know in a nutshell is: the sustainable sunglasses material de jour is bio-acetate, which is made with plant-derived renewable materials, such as wood pulp. Where other brands mix traditional petroleum-based acetate with bio-acetate to craft their frames, the Reformation X Jimmy Fairly lineup is 100 percent bio-acetate. (Should you already have jumped on the hype and started looking for Jimmy Fairly opticals, just an FYI they are composed of 60 percent recycled acetate and 40 percent bio-acetate, so you're good). The duo didn't stop at the frames, though. The lenses are bio-nylon, a natural alternative to crude-oil Nylon we've seen kicking around since the 1940s. It's formulated with engineered microorganisms that ferment plant sugars to produce renewable nylon. Both of these materials are fully biodegradable, so you can rest assured they'll be kind to planet post-use, too. Not that you'll want to give them up—timeless designs like these are sure to serve your looks summer after summer. Last year, Reformation X Jimmy Fairly was a smaller considered collection of classics like the cat-eye Joan, the 1990s-inspired oval Flore and Coline, and the aviator style Brune and Josephine designs. This year, things are expanding to include more of a 1970s vibe—tapping nicely into the boho renaissance—with the Jeanne, which is reminiscent of Jimmy Fairly's popular The Lou optical. There's also an injection of Y2K glam with the Eve (she even comes in a bubblegum pink colorway). The collection launches May 15 and can be shopped online at or in various Jimmy Fairly stores across London.
Business Insider
09-05-2025
- Business Insider
Mark Zuckerberg is a certified watch guy. Here are some of his standout timepieces, from a $120 Casio to a $900,000 design.
Anant Ambani seemingly sparked Mark Zuckerberg's interest in watches. While attending Ambani's pre-wedding party in March 2024, Zuckerberg and his wife, Priscilla Chan, were seen admiring a Richard Mille watch worn by the Reliance Industries heir. "You know, I never really wanted to get a watch, but after seeing that, I was like, watches are cool," Zuckerberg is heard saying in a video of the interaction. While he clarified to Chan that he wasn't interested in buying the exact same watch, he said he'd consider similar options. Six months later, he was seen wearing a coveted Patek Philippe design. On September 1, 2024, Zuckerberg shared an Instagram photo of himself embracing his wife. In the image, his wrist was adorned with a large watch featuring a gold face and a brown strap. Zuckerberg indulged watch fanatics who asked for details, sharing that the watch was a "5236P," or a Grand Complications In-Line Perpetual Calendar watch from Patek Philippe. The timepiece is crafted with a platinum case and an alligator-leather band. In terms of functionality, it displays the current day, date, and month. It also indicates leap years, moon phases, and whether it's day or nighttime. It retails for $141,400, according to the brand's website. He then displayed a rare watch he'd acquired from De Bethune. Zuckerberg appeared at an "Acquired" podcast event on September 10, 2024. While onstage, he was photographed wearing another flashy watch: a DB25 Starry Varius from the Swiss watch brand De Bethune. He seemed to be wearing its rose-gold model, which can cost over $80,000 from independent watch sellers. As watch specialist Bryan Li previously told Business Insider, only 20 of the watches are made annually. Other variants — like one made from titanium and another encrusted with 273 diamonds — can cost between $75,000 and $127,000. There's also the Aérolite version of the watch, which features a dial made from a meteorite and usually costs $260,000. This De Bethune piece — and Zuckerberg's Patek Philippe watch — showed a significant shift in the Facebook founder's style, taking his outfits from basic to luxe almost overnight. Zuckerberg also began wearing an F.P. Journe design in September 2024. He was photographed wearing a chunky silver watch onstage at the 2024 Meta Connect conference. It appears to have been a variant of a watch from the Swiss brand F.P. Journe's Souveraine collection. The specific one Zuckerberg wore featured a thick band and large black buttons on its side. Sotheby's listed what appears to be the same watch for auction in March, and said it was made entirely from aluminum. The auction company also said the watch style was produced between 2011 and 2014. The piece was estimated to sell for between $30,000 and $54,000, though it's unclear what it actually sold for. The same watch in a darker gray colorway is now available to purchase online for $135,000. At the beginning of 2025, the tech mogul debuted what appears to be one of the most expensive watches in his collection. On January 8, Zuckerberg posted a video to announce the end of Meta's fact-checking partnerships in the US. In the clip, he's seen wearing a Greubel Forsey watch that retails for over $900,000. According to the brand's website, the watch is assembled entirely by hand, and only two or three are crafted each year. It's made with white gold and contains 281 pieces. Michel Nydegger, the CEO of Greubel Forsey, told Bloomberg at the time that Zuckerberg showed "true appreciation for the most traditional approach to fine watchmaking" by wearing the piece. He then sported a Rolex at a UFC event in March. Zuckerberg posted a handful of photos and videos from the mixed martial arts event, which showed a thick gold watch on his wrist. BI spoke with four watch experts at the time, who all said the timepiece was likely a yellow-gold Rolex Daytona Le Mans. Though Rolex has never confirmed how many exist, collectors and sellers say the watch style is rare. That's partially why it had a resale value of up to $300,000, as Ng Yong Shen, a vice president at the Dubai-based secondhand retailer Re-Loved Luxury, told BI. His watch collection isn't entirely luxurious. In April, Zuckerberg appeared on The Colin and Samir Show wearing a white timepiece with a vibrant blue face. Watch fanatics quickly pointed it out as the GA2100WS-7A from Casio's G-Shock line. Made from resin and mineral glass, the watch retails for $120. So far, it's the least expensive watch Zuckerberg has worn in public.
