Chef Vikas Khanna: 'Every dish has a reason it exists in a certain way'

Khaleej Times

31-03-2025

Chef Vikas Khanna is as much a chef as he is a make-up man, out to give what we know as Indian cuisine a much-delayed makeover. He's dragging flavours that have tantalised generations with their five rich elements — sweet, sour, bitter, spicy, and umami — out from the shadows of Indian households, dressing them up in finery and presenting them to a global audience that is ready to tease new tastebuds into existence.
Take Khanna's dahi ke kebab (yoghurt kababs), for instance. It's wrapped in a cocoon of vermicelli thread that's placed over a drip of sauce made using milk and turmeric. When you spear the dish, after a crunchy snap, it reveals fluffy, spiced up yoghurt that melts in your mouth. So the essence of the dish — once fed to the elite of Lucknow remains, even though it's dolled up differently. 'When I innovate, I don't want to change the essence of the dish; rather, I want to enhance it. I ask myself — how do I make this more accessible? How can I tell a new story while respecting the tradition? That's how I approach creativity,' Khanna tells City Times in an interview.
The celebrity chef — he's the owner of Kinara in Dubai and Junoon and Bungalow in New York; has hosted MasterChef India for years; and was one of the first Indian chefs to earn a Michelin Star – was recently in Dubai to meet media at the city's branch of Kinara. Considering the 53-year-old's spot on the charts of Indian food history, one could expect to find a chef with a self-important air. What we find instead is a man whose smiles result in crinkles around his eyes, the laughter lines poking through.
He speaks about the impact his family has had on him, why he loves food, and offers sage advice to the students of cooking: 'Stay hungry, stay curious, stay humble.'
Excerpts from the interview:
Chef Vikas, your culinary journey has been extraordinary, from your grandmother's kitchen in Amritsar to Michelin-starred success. Can you tell us about the moment you knew that food would be your life's passion?
My passion for cooking was ignited in my grandmother's kitchen in Amritsar. As a child, I was born with club foot, a condition that delayed my ability to walk until I was six. I used to sit in the kitchen with my Biji, watching her cook, observing the alchemy of ingredients transforming into something magical. That's when I first fell in love with cooking.
Those childhood memories and the aromas of her dishes have stayed with me, inspiring everything I do today. Her warmth, her hands kneading dough, the stories she told while making flatbreads—those moments shaped my journey.
You've worked in kitchens across the world, from India to New York City. What were some of the key moments in your career that have shaped the chef you are today?
There are a few moments that define my journey. Moving to New York was one of them. I arrived with very little, worked as a dishwasher, slept on subway platforms, and faced struggles I could never have imagined. There were days when I had nothing to eat, but I held onto the dream of one day owning a restaurant that celebrated Indian cuisine on a global platform. The opening of Junoon and receiving a Michelin Star against all odds was another defining moment. It was the result of resilience, faith, and the lessons my grandmother instilled in me.
With your success, how do you stay grounded and continue pushing the boundaries of creativity?
I have never forgotten my roots. Regular visits to Amritsar and time spent cooking in my mother's kitchen bring me back to the essence of why I started this journey. When I create, I let my heart lead. Food is an emotional connection for me — it tells a story, evokes memories, and creates a bridge between cultures. And of course, my mother is my biggest inspiration. Even today, I can't start cooking in my restaurant until I hear her voice. She must be there, either physically or virtually, to bless the first pot. That ritual keeps me connected to my purpose.
What do you think is the biggest misconception about Indian cuisine?
A lot of people think Indian food is all about heavy curries and just being spicy. But Indian cuisine is a tapestry of history, culture, and regional flavours. Every region has its own identity, its own spices, its own techniques, its own food philosophy. The world is still discovering the depth of Indian cuisine beyond butter chicken and naan. Our food is about the perfect balance of flavours — sweet, sour, bitter, spicy, and umami. And that balance is what makes it so special.
How do you balance tradition with innovation when creating new dishes?
For me, the most important thing is respect for the dish. Every dish has a history, a reason it exists in a certain way. When I innovate, I don't want to change the essence of the dish; rather, I want to enhance it. I ask myself — how do I make this more accessible? How can I tell a new story while respecting the tradition? That's how I approach creativity.
The dining experience at your restaurants is known to be immersive. How do you bring that storytelling element into your food?
When you dine with us, it's not just about eating — it's about understanding where the food comes from. We use storytelling, visual elements, fragrances, textures, and sound to bring our dishes to life. A simple dish like 'Raan' isn't just lamb, it's the history of the Mughals, the warmth of Indian hospitality, the spices that travelled the Silk Road — all on one plate. I want my guests to feel like they are travelling through India with every bite.
You've been an advocate for sustainable cooking. What are some simple steps people can take at home to be more eco-friendly in the kitchen?
'We need to respect ingredients — every part of them. That means using vegetable peels to make broths, consuming seasonal and local produce, reducing food waste, and understanding the impact of our choices. Small steps like composting, supporting local farmers, and reducing food waste can make a big difference.
What excites you about the future of Indian cuisine?
We are experiencing a global awakening to the complexity of Indian food. The world is recognising that India is not just one cuisine, but a collection of countless regional flavours and stories. The future is about bringing those hyperlocal, ancient traditions into contemporary culinary spaces and onto global tables.
If you could share one piece of advice with aspiring chefs, what would it be?
Stay hungry, stay curious, stay humble. Travel, explore, cook with your heart, and never forget where you come from. Cooking is more than just a skill; it is an emotion, a connection to something greater. Hold on to that, and it will show in your food.