The insider's guide to Bali's secret side
Hipster Canggu and chic Seminyak have ousted Kuta as the party playground, while mellow, mystical Ubud lures more visitors each year, thanks to its reputation as one of the world's premier yoga and wellness centres. Drive just a couple of hours from all that bustle and you'll find serene rural villages in East Bali where traditional life continues, unhurried and unchanged.
The island's western third is almost untouched – an off-the-radar swathe of rice terraces, palm-fringed beaches and jungle valleys where wild deer, langur monkeys and the rare Bali starling (the island's own 'bird of paradise') still roam free.
For more Bali inspiration, see our guides to the best hotels, restaurants, bars and nightlife, things to do and beaches. For further advice, see our expert's ultimate two-week itinerary in Bali.
In this guide:
How to spend the perfect day in Bali
Morning
If you want to escape the crowds, be sure to base yourself on Bali's tranquil south-west coast. After a beachfront breakfast at Puri Dajuma Beach Eco-Resort & Spa, take the chance to walk with buffalos – rare pink buffalos – and learn about Bali's unique rice-farming heritage with local farmer Pak Sudana. Enjoy a leisurely coffee break and tropical fruit smoothie at a beachfront café in Yeh Sumbul (The Holy Tree is a firm favourite).
Everyone knows everyone in West Bali's little beach towns, so ask around and you're sure to find an experienced surf instructor who will show you the best local surf spots. Medewi Point is not suited to beginners because of its dangerously sharp rocks but Yeh Sumbul's sandy, uncrowded beach-break is one of the best for an introductory session in Balinese surf.
Afternoon
Grab lunch at Bombora Medewi to catch grandstand views of the local hotshots ripping Medewi's super-long wave. It's easy to rent a car (or a scooter), but consider hiring a knowledgeable driver who can act as a guide for an afternoon exploring.
It's a 50-minute drive from Medewi to the fishing village of Perancak and the route leads you through beautiful paddy vistas. You'll see spectacular birdlife and might even be treated to the rare sight of buffalo ploughing the fields in the traditional way.
At Perancak, you'll find one of Indonesia's most astoundingly colourful sights: more than 100 rainbow-hued and ornately decorated fishing trawlers. It's also likely to be blissfully quiet as very few tourists (and even relatively few islanders) are aware that it exists.
Night
Bali's iconic sea temples – most famously Uluwatu and Tanah Lot – tend to be jammed with selfie-snapping crowds at sunset, but at Rambut Siwi (three miles from Medewi) you can enjoy unbeatable clifftop views along 10 miles of beach, often in solitude. Despite the lack of crowds, this sprawling temple, with mysterious grottos at the foot of the cliff, is one of the most important places of worship for Balinese Hindus.
Finish the day with a Bintang or a fresh coconut plucked straight from the tree at Rasta café Medewi. Self-taught chef Dewi (Rasta's wife) has inspired some of Bali's celebrity chefs with her regional specialities made from fresh locally-sourced ingredients. Try the spicy fish rendang or, if you have a sweet tooth, the dadar gulung (Balinese pancakes made with palm sugar).
How to spend a week-long holiday
If you have a single week to experience the best that Bali has to offer, then start at Menjangan, a small island off Bali's far western tip. Getting there is a big part of the adventure, so allow three hours to drive over the mountainous route from the airport. The highland road must surely be one of the world's most breathtakingly beautiful drives – especially if you leave at first light as the sun's early rays are lifting the mist out of the jungle valleys. The road quite literally passes through the sacred Bunut Bolong banyan tree.
Check into The Menjangan, a lovely eco-resort, and spend the rest of the day kayaking around the mangrove-fringed lagoon where giant monitor lizards prowl and herds of majestic sambar deer cool their heels on the shallow reef.
Rise early on day two for a Menjangan birdwatching tour, where you're almost guaranteed to spot the endemic Bali starlings (one of the world's rarest birds). Spend the rest of the morning snorkelling on the reefs around Menjangan Island.
It's a half-hour drive to Pemuteran but this low-key diving town on the north coast is worth an overnight stop if you want to explore the reefs (both man-made and natural) that are accessible from the shore. Round off the day with dinner and cocktails at a beachfront restaurant.
The three-and-a-half-hour drive south to Ubud is a spectacular roller-coaster journey across the high volcanic peaks. Before descending to the southern slopes, consider breaking the journey with a guided rainforest walk and boat ride at Tamblingan Lake (you'll find certified guides at the office by the car park).
Check into Bambu Indah (which takes Indonesian bamboo construction to mind-boggling new levels) for two nights. Drag yourself away from the breathtaking property to experience the healthy and spiritual side of Ubud; take in a yoga class at the iconic Yoga Barn or a traditional spa treatment at Fivelements Retreat. Murni's Warung has been one of Bali's emblematic restaurants for decades and remains a favourite lunch venue.
For a touch of romantic highland solitude, spend your last days hiking the paddies and spice forests around Sidemen. Base yourself at the riverside Wapa di Ume Sidemen but, if you feel like road-tripping a little farther east, make a lunch reservation for a delicious traditional meal at Bali Asli Restaurant, which affords views towards the peak of Bali's sacred Mount Agung volcano.
Depending on your flight time, consider splashing out for the last night at the sumptuous Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay, just across the bay from Bali's international airport.
How to get there and how to get around
Bali's I Gusti Ngurah Rai International Airport is served by all the main regional airlines. Qatar, Emirates and Etihad offer some of the cheapest and most convenient connections from the UK.
Grab (the Asian equivalent of Uber) is a hassle-free and secure way to get around, but you can hire a private car with a driver from £30 per day. Many tourists opt to hire scooters but beware that accidents are common (often due to reckless riding) and are not recommended for inexperienced riders.
When to go
April to October is traditionally the dry season, but even through the wetter months – most notably November to January – the rainfall tends to be short and sharp. These storms can be excitingly dramatic and are invariably interspersed by bouts of sunshine.
It's worth bearing in mind that the rainy season brings the benefits of uncrowded sights, shoulder-season prices, cheaper flights and dramatically cascading highland waterfalls. The north shore, with landscapes featuring cactus and even vineyards, is dry all year round.
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Where to stay
Luxury Living
Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan holds an impeccably poised position above stepped rice fields on the banks of the sacred Ayung River. More than two decades after it was built, it remains one of Ubud's most stylish five-star hotels. From the space-age concrete architecture to the chic suites and inexhaustible facilities, this resort is a real show-stopper.
Along the quiet west coast of Bali, Puri Dajuma Beach Eco-Resort & Spa is a peaceful waterfront hideaway surrounded by palm groves, rice paddies and banana plantations. It's a wonderful escape from the tourist hotspots of the island; a luxurious yet down-to-earth refuge in a peaceful part of 'the real Bali'.
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Know before you go
Essential information
Bali Government Tourist Office (00 62 361 222387; disparda.baliprov.go.id)
The basics
Currency: Indonesian Rupiahs. £1 = 21,956 IDR
Telephone dialling code from abroad: +62
Time difference: GMT+8
Travel time from London: +-17 hours
Local etiquette
While many parts of the island are world famous as beach destinations, islanders view beachwear as highly inappropriate (rude even) when worn in streets, businesses and homes. Bali has hit headlines recently because of the behaviour of tourists who have violated the sanctity of religious spots with disrespectful costumes and poses.
Accessibility
Many resorts are well-equipped for travellers with disabilities. Potato Head Suites and Studios goes the extra mile with facilities for guests with disabilities and Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan (equipped with golf-carts and elevators) is also an ideal base. Unfortunately, even in the main tourist towns like Kuta, Ubud, Canggu and Seminyak, pavements are frequently broken and potholed and traffic is often dangerously erratic.
About our expert
Mark Eveleigh
I first fell in love with West Bali during a surf trip 25 years ago. Since then, I've returned at every opportunity and, whenever I'm not on assignment, I write from a bamboo and thatch house in the West Balinese village of Pekutatan.
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