Momoa recalls near-death surfing experience in Hawaii
Speaking on the 'Smartless' podcast with hosts Will Arnett, Jason Bateman, and Sean Hayes, the Aquaman and Chief of War star recounted the incident, which occurred at the Jaws surf break in Maui. At the time, Momoa had paddled 13 miles down the windy coast with friends, nearly a mile offshore, when his surfboard leash suddenly snapped.
"It's so windy on Maui, and so the board just went. I couldn't even see it anymore," Momoa said. "I was trained pretty well, so it was fine — but I took quite a few on the head. They were pretty big, like 10-foot Hawaiian waves."
Momoa explained that he became stranded on the outer reef without realising it. "They couldn't see me, and I had my paddle, waving it, but they couldn't see me. I literally gave up and I'm screaming inside," he said.
The 45-year-old actor recalled that his foot eventually struck the reef, allowing him to anchor himself against the pounding waves. "I dig my feet into the coral and I'm literally in the middle of the ocean," he said, adding that he thought of his daughter throughout the ordeal.
After about 10 minutes, a friend reached him on a surfboard, towing another board for him to use. Momoa described the journey back to shore as exhausting, with his feet bloodied from the coral as they fought their way over the waves.
The episode was discussed as Momoa promoted the premiere season of his new Apple TV+ series Chief of War.
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