
How the mega rich are making holidays unaffordable
Ever feel you're being priced out of your annual trip abroad? For many ordinary holidaymakers the choice of affordable destinations seems to be narrowing by the year. These days anywhere even vaguely pretty has been colonised by luxury brands and their mega-rich devotees. With fewer 'hidden paradises' for them to discover, wealthy travellers are now flocking to places once considered standard holiday fare. And while the rest of us were 'staycationing' in the drizzle, investors were busily hoarding anywhere with a half-decent beach.
Oliver Corkhill, co-founder of bespoke tour operator Viadi Group, thinks the definition of luxury travel has evolved significantly in recent years. He says: 'Quality and exceptional service are now baseline expectations, with the focus shifting to what guests can truly take away from their holiday. It's no longer just about indulgence; it's about truly connecting with a destination.'
Corkhill believes there's been a mindset shift with wealthier travellers now seeking an 'enriching experience'. He acknowledges that this rise in expectations, coupled with companies competing to attract money-is-no-object travellers, has priced many people out of the market. Globally, the number of millionaires is spiralling, as is their desire for high-end experiential holidays. And destinations – particularly those stung by over-tourism but keen to maintain the income holidaymakers bring – are desperate to woo them.
This rush to inhabit the top-end of the market is a relatively new phenomenon. Moneyed travellers have traditionally been quite conservative in their choice of getaway. Old favourites such as Mustique, Monaco and the Amalfi Coast were seen as familiar, reassuringly expensive and far from the gaze of the package holiday hordes. But that was before the great post-Covid land grab.
Take one of the more recent examples, the tiny island of Platte in the Seychelles. Thirty years ago this remote idyll in the middle of the Indian Ocean could easily have become one of those lost paradise-on-a-budget destinations beloved of grubby backpackers – think tents on beaches and cheap, palm-fronded bars. But investors have long since hollowed out that meagre revenue stream.
In 2024 Hilton Group opened a five-star Waldorf Astoria resort on Platte, filling what had once been a small coconut plantation with imported palm trees and high-end lodges. The gamble appears to be paying off, with no shortage of high flyers lining up to pay around £12,000 a night for a five-bedroom villa.
The Seychelles wasn't always a magnet for the super rich. Local expat artist Michael Adams and his wife Heather moved there in 1972, and have fond memories of the islands before the developers arrived. 'For years the place was a hippy paradise with a few arty expats like us living a very simple, carefree life,' says Heather. 'We rarely encountered many tourists other than a few hairy dropouts seeking nirvana. These days it feels more like a playground for rich bankers and swanky wedding parties.'
European destinations are also trying to attract the billionaire class. Once known for their bohemian vibes, Greek islands such as Mykonos, Santorini and Ios have been well and truly blinged in recent years, abandoning the needs of ordinary holidaymakers in favour of the luxury end of the market. Santorini feels less like the rustic outpost of old and more a roped-off playground for the yachting fraternity. At Santa Marina, a five-star resort on Mykonos, rooms cost around £2,400 a night. It's all a far cry from the homely mama and baba pensions that once proliferated here.
Then there's Montenegro, once seen as one of Europe's most affordable destinations, but now home to fleets of mega-yachts and a plethora of five-star resorts such as Nikki Beach and The Chedi, part of a sprawling new beach community in Luštica Bay complete with luxury apartment blocks, a handsome town square and one of Europe's highest, most exclusive golf courses.
Even Benidorm has been trying to shed its less-than-salubrious image. When I visited recently the town felt more like a cross between Miami and Dubai with shiny new high-end hotels looming over the wide, perfectly manicured beaches. These days the old town feels properly cosmopolitan and the Boca del Calvari Museum even had a Goya exhibition.
You'll also struggle to find a decent room for less than £200, and up in the mountains overlooking Benidorm, the Asia Gardens and Melia Villaitana resorts are as good as anything you'll find in more traditionally lavish locations.
Ibiza's transformation from scuzzy 1970s hippie retreat to the world's most exclusive global party hub has been more gradual but no less dramatic. When I was there visiting friends recently, the decadent vibe felt like a two-fingered salute to all those bearded dropouts who decamped to what was then a remote corner of the Balearics.
In July, a room at the Six Senses in Cala Nova will set you back over £1,300 a night. That's assuming, of course, the hotel isn't already fully booked; Ibiza has become the Glastonbury festival of holiday destinations where tickets sell out fast. Many of the older residents I spoke to complained that the island itself had sold out to a new breed of flashy drug-fuelled pleasure-seekers with little interest in island life.
While the super rich are expanding their holiday horizons across every nook and cranny of Europe, don't expect long-haul destinations to offer much of an affordable alternative.
Back in the early 1990s, if you backpacked across south-east Asia you were still considered something of a pioneer. On Thailand's Koh Phi Phi, I remember being told not to drink the water and to carry a torch with me at all times due to unpredictable electricity supplies. How times have changed. Phi Phi along with neighbouring Koh Phangan and Koh Samui have seen heavy development over the past 20 years with sprawling resorts replacing the tatty beach huts of old.
Mexico's Yucatan peninsula has suffered a similar fate, with the unmade but picturesque ocean road from Cancun to Tulum now a gleaming highway lined with upscale hotels. Tulum, once a remote Mayan ruin surrounded by a smattering of camp sites, has been transformed into a glamorous beach resort where rooms at La Valise Tulum will set you back over £300.
Wealthy travellers may be shaping the holiday landscape but there are still some surprisingly affordable pockets of Europe that have resisted. The Dordogne, for instance, has some lovely family-owned chateau hotels that don't cost the earth. Rooms at four star hotel L'Abbaye in sleepy Saint-Cyprien start at around £120 and from there you can tour the region's many historic castles where entry costs around £10. Drop by any of Périgord's heavenly villages and you can still enjoy a three-course menu du jour for around £14.
But if you're still feeling down about the affordability of your next trip abroad, just remember: the super rich feed on exclusivity. So perhaps they'll grow tired of colonising the entire world and retreat back to their more familiar habitats – allowing the rest of us to rediscover favourite haunts we assumed were beyond our reach.
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The Independent
2 hours ago
- The Independent
Uber brings helicopter taxis to the Amalfi Coast
Uber has announced that customers will be able to book helicopters in minutes in Italy this summer to beat crowds. From 26 July to 23 August, travellers on Italy's Amalfi Coast can reserve a private Uber Copter to take them between Sorrento and Capri using the Uber app for €250 (around £184) per head. The dual-pilot helicopter service will operate every Saturday and Sunday with a 9am departure from Sorrento and 5pm return from Capri. The journey includes door-to-door transportation to and from the helipad and is available for groups of up to six passengers. The American transport company, best known for its taxis, is also launching the Uber Boat in Italy with private charters for up to 12 people available between 26 July until 24 August. Travellers will sail from Sorrento Marina on Italian Gozzo 35 boats, with ample opportunity to soak in the coastline's most breathtaking spots on the four-hour trip. Each trip comes with its own personal skipper and complimentary snacks and beverages. This summer is set to be the southern coastline's busiest on record following the launch of international flights at Salerno Airport. The Amalfi Coast, famed for its pastel-coloured fishing villages and excellent food, is one of Italy's most popular tourist spots, attracting around five million tourists a year. Very narrow roads link the most popular towns on the coastline meaning travellers face traffic bottlenecks and competition over seasonal ferries. Uber said it is responding to the rise in demand from international customers for Uber's mobility services, which increased by up to 25 per cent last summer in places like Rome, Lake Como and the Amalfi Coast. It added that more than 400,000 international customers used the Uber app in Italy during the holiday period in 2024. Anabel Diaz, vice president, EMEA Mobility at Uber, said: 'At Uber, we strive to help our customers go anywhere, wherever they are travelling. Italy is fast becoming one of our most popular tourist destinations, with travellers turning to the Uber app to help make their holiday travel stress-free. This summer, we're adding a series of unforgettable experiences that will make travelling by land, sea or air more magical than ever before.' Customers are required to book at least 48 in advance via the Uber Reserve from anywhere in Italy beginning on 25 June for both the Uber Copter and Uber Boat. The availability of Uber Copter and Uber Boat is expected to be limited and subject to weather conditions.


Times
5 hours ago
- Times
Guided tours are bad tourism — here's how they need to improve
We stumbled off the coach, blinking in the harsh light but delighted to have arrived in Bukhara, Uzbekistan. Some of us had been dreaming of this moment since Joanna Lumley discovered this Silk Road city in 2018. Others even longer, but in all the excitement half the group missed the guide's instructions to cross the road and were left behind. By the time they caught up, the vanguard was fighting through an international brigade of tourists to gain entry to the fortress of Nasrullah Khan, the 19th-century 'Butcher of Bukhara'. In a forest of flags held up by dozens of guides, some of us joined different groups. Others got lost. Alone, I blundered into the throne room in the same way Arthur Conolly had in 1841. He'd come to rescue the British spy Charles Stoddart from a three-year incarceration in the bug pit: 12ft deep, 4ft wide and regularly topped up with ticks, rats and scorpions. However, as Conolly was thrown into the same foul hole himself, he must have realised that all hope was lost. • 17 of the best Silk Road tours Now, 183 years later, as we were hurried up stairs, down alleys and along battlements, all trying to make sense of the garbled words in our earpieces, some of us shared Conolly's despair. I found one of our group slumped on a stone bench in the shade of an arch. 'This is not how I dreamt Bukhara would be,' she sighed. Guided tours have been around as long as tourists — Herodotus was unimpressed with his while on a Treasures of Egypt trip in 442BC — but the type in which a coachload of confused travellers follow a pink umbrella through the busy heart of an ancient city is a product of the industrial age. Groups were being led around Rome in the 1820s; the essayist William Hazlitt noted with disappointment that the Eternal City comprised 'an almost uninterrupted succession of narrow, vulgar-looking streets'. In the 1920s the Rev Henry Mullineux of the St Barnabas Society was leading group tours of the Western Front. A decade later coach tours were all the rage: in 1936 Yelloway Motor Services of Rochdale offered an eight-day guided tour of the West Country for £8.75 all-in. • I'm 62: here's what I've learnt during ten years of group tours But as the travel industry matured, the way in which tourists were shown the sights remained all but unchanged. The shepherd leads the flock through the streets, corralling them at each point of interest. Facts and figures are reeled off; Herodotus recounts how a guide read out a list, without context, of the names of 300 kings on a long afternoon in Egypt. Then the sheep are herded onwards. The route is fixed, the clients are passive, and if you don't want to traipse half a mile through a sullen neighbourhood to see some street art, tough, because you won't know where you're going until you get there. I have nothing against group trips. They're a terrific way of making new friends and sharing experiences in wonderful destinations, but that tour of Bukhara was disappointing. It was also uncomfortable. There's something infantilising about following someone with a microphone and a flag through crowded streets like a seven-year-old on a school trip. Fortunately, Bukharans still welcome tourists. The same cannot be said of Paris. Last September I joined a walking tour of the city led by one of the world's biggest group tour operators. Twenty-two of us trudged through Montmartre following two tour leaders and the local guide. We clogged the pavements. We stood in shop doorways. We walked in roads. And then we blocked the door of a bakery that had been on TV. As the guide told us about Amélie, Emily in Paris or Chocolat — I wasn't really listening — the tour leaders caught up on their social media. Engrossed in their phones, they didn't notice as locals became increasingly enervés, subjecting us to a tirade of obscenities. Another hissed 'Ce n'est pas Disneyland' — but worse was to come. A lady in a wheelchair tried to push through a group of nice people who had suddenly become the exemplars of the dumb tourist. Later I asked the tour leaders about the incident. They were dismissive. 'They need tourists in Montmartre,' said one. 'The wheelchair woman had plenty of space,' said the other. I asked if there was an acceptable number of locals they were allowed to upset in the pursuit of so-called sustainable travel, but they declined to comment. I cringe when I recollect that afternoon. Assigning 20 or more guests to a single guide may be a cost-effective way of conducting tours, but in a world where tourists are increasingly resented more than they are welcomed, stomping through cities like an invading army is not a good look. • 11 of the best group tours for solo travellers None of us like to feel unwanted, and yet when I spoke last summer to the citizens of Palma, Barcelona, Santorini and other destinations blighted by overtourism, the human centipedes came second only to Airbnb in terms of disdain. It's a problem easily fixed. Reducing group sizes to a maximum of six and taking different routes around attractions means visitors will have a richer, more intimate experience, locals will be less irritated and there will be more work for guides. Yes, it will be more expensive, because more guides will have to be paid. But if that's the cost of a happy memory, I'll pay it. As for the guiding, I want storytellers not statisticians. I don't really care what year any cathedral or castle was built, or how many hectares a ruin occupies — and I certainly won't remember. But tell me the tales of the people who lived and died there and I'll be boring people in pubs about it for weeks. By Richard Mellor Launched in 1998 by the travel writer Jonny Bealby, Wild Frontiers crafts itineraries where the routes, transport and places to stay are painstakingly considered. Groups have an average of nine and prices tend to include all meals, permits and entrance fees. Most guides have deep regional knowledge, language skills and local contacts (which can translate into special access), while the firm seeks out unusual destinations — epitomised by a new Pioneer collection, and its Mongolia tour, which takes in giant ancient petroglyphs, remote mountain lakes and a golden eagle hunters' Twelve nights' full board from £4,195pp ( Fly to Ulaanbaatar Rated consistently highly for its tour leaders and customer service, Explore! offers more than 350 trips to about 100 countries — everything from Inca Trail hikes to cycling in Kerala. An average group size of 11 means that tours are flexible, and can emphasise locally owned hotels and restaurants. Potential travellers can find out who has already booked on a particular trip (age range, solos or couples, etc). This summer's tours include Slovenia via laid-back Ljubljana and the photogenic, mountain-backed Lake Seven nights' B&B from £1,595pp ( Fly to Ljubljana Steppes's biggest USP is the chance to travel with some true experts — think Jonathan Green, the founder of the Galapagos Whale Shark Project, or the author William Dalrymple on an Indian train charter. The average group size is ten and accommodation is mostly luxurious, highly characterful or both. Run by a team of ex-rangers, guides or camp managers, it focuses on culture, history, good old-fashioned adventure or iconic animal species — such as a boat-based November tour where you can snorkel alongside killer whales in northern Seven nights' full board from £7,559pp, including lectures ( Fly to Alta Are you a fan of guided tours — or not? Share your views in the comments


Times
6 hours ago
- Times
Charlotte Ivers: ‘My road trip through Spain's world-class vineyards'
There's a small strip of land along the Duero River known as the Golden Mile. As is the way of such convenient place names this is, of course, a lie. The golden mile is in fact nearly ten miles long. It's an inauspicious piece of land: parched earth, and the soil doesn't look up to growing much. Drive along the dusty road, and little collections of buildings — sun-bleached, ramshackle, seemingly hastily assembled — spring up on the horizon and disappear as soon as you reach them. There's something of the Western frontier to this place. Or maybe it's more like California during the gold rush, or those early Texas oil towns. But it isn't oil these pioneers are chasing. It's grapes. For a long time this little chunk of Castile and Leon was a destination only for those who knew what they were looking for, and what they were looking for was wine. Madrid to the south and San Sebastian to the north take care of the tourists in search of a bit of glamour and a Michelin-starred meal. Wine connoisseurs — importers, restaurateurs, buyers — come to the Golden Mile to cart back crates of red bottles of liquid gold. In recent years, however, the small Spanish hotel group Castilla Termal, which specialises in converting historic buildings into high-end spa destinations, has opened a five-star hotel in a restored 12th-century monastery. Suddenly, there's a reason for luxury travellers to come to this part of the world. Perhaps there always was: the vineyards here are world-class. If you're into tempranillo, this place is the ultimate pilgrimage site. But this was not an area designed for leisure visitors. It was a hard sell as a mini-break before this extravagant hotel and spa sprang up. Stuck onto the side of tiny San Bernardo, the bottom half of the monastery remains a historical site, and the Catholic church attached is still used by the hundred or so people who live in the village. There is a sense of staying in a living museum: a type of historic grandeur with which no billion-pound new-build could hope to compete. Most rooms are located on the first floor, reached by a walkway looking down into the cloisters below. There are only 79: all spacious, some cavernous, all decorated in an understated, modern manner. We are here as part of a package Castilla Termal has set up. The idea is that you spend three nights here at Monasterio de Valbuena, then two at another of its hotels in the slightly larger village of Brihuega (of which more later). On arrival, the first thing this entails is dinner at Converso: a restaurant set up in the hotel just a few months ago with the advice of Miguel Ángel de la Cruz, a renowned local chef who specialises in vegetarian and sustainable cooking. This restaurant is a clear statement of intent, in terms of sustainability and quality. The ingredients all come from the hotel's vegetable garden and, more impressively, the eggs come from its own hens. It is, quite clearly, Michelin bait. No doubt they will get their star soon: this is the best restaurant around by miles. The next day there's an almost infinite supply of vineyards to be getting on with. We visit Emilio Moro, one of the oldest and most notable vineyards nearby, for a tour, tasting and lunch. (During which the proprietors absolutely did not skimp on sharing their product. We rolled home.) Then there's an extremely pleasant day out to be had at Finca Villacreces, touring the vineyard on electric bikes to see the different terrains, before returning to base for tasting and snacks. In both cases, it is clear that these guys really live their wine; these are guides who can cater for everyone from the most serious of wine professionals to those who just fancy a few glasses of red and a look at the countryside. Back at the hotel the spa is the main event. The thermal pools, indoor and outdoor, contain more means of administering a water jet than you ever thought possible, whether you're standing, sitting or lying down. The best part, however, is the Chapel of San Pedro spa experience. Castilla Termal has painstakingly recreated the beautiful little chapel that sits off the side of the main church. Instead of worshippers, this one hosts a steam room, a sauna and a variety of Roman bath-style plunge pools of varying temperatures. It's a private space: you book your time and don't have to share with other guests. Once you've got over the vague sense of sacrilege and realise that a thunderbolt hasn't actually descended from the sky, it's wonderful. With its vaulted ceilings and pale stone walls, this is the spa you always imagine when plotting a relaxation day — but which never quite seems to manifest in the real world. The view from our vast bedroom window is quite remarkable. Looking out into the romantic garden we can see straight into the treetops. This view isn't hard to come by in this hotel; the rooms here circle the building, most facing outwards into the garden. The room is high-ceilinged and bright, with wood panels and the pale white stone of the original building. It's elegant and modern, yet understated. • 16 of the best vineyard hotels in Tuscany After three nights we drag ourselves away from the pools and head onwards to our next stop: driving a couple of hours east to Brihuega, a small town of fewer than 3,000 people just north of Madrid. Here Castilla Termal has another hotel, rising out of a hill in the centre of town in an old cloth factory. Again, this is a place you would never find on a standard tourist route. Again we find ourselves in the most remarkable building: circular, with a covered courtyard restaurant in the middle, at the centre of which is a vast indoor tree. Gardens in the romantic style surround the hotel, with views across the hills. It's a more casual dining situation here — a fresh, light, à la carte menu — and that's perhaps what we need after several days of red wine at lunch. And this time the town is big enough to sustain several restaurants and bars. Here we get the longed-for opportunity of every European holiday: to sit in a pretty town square with a small beer and some salty snacks. Except for the hotel, this is a locals' town. It only strikes me now that we didn't hear a single passer-by speaking English outside our hotel, quite a rare thing when combined with a luxury spa break. We enjoy our impeccably authentic tapas, negotiating the language barrier as we go, and then return again to the peace of the thermal spas (nearly identical to those in our last destination) and to the hotel's signature massage which, in homage to the building's origins, uses cloths to stretch out our limbs by pulling the fabric to extend or bend them gently. • 25 of the best vineyard hotels to visit in France As a day trip, the hotel team recommends we head an hour or so away, to Cogolludo, to meet quite a remarkable man named Yñigo Miguez del Olmo. Del Olmo has done the thing that every city worker threatens to do but never actually does: he has sacked off the corporate life to head to the hills, where he makes his own wine and has restored a quite remarkable 16th-century convent. Here he has created a makeshift museum, full of his collection of carved stone going back to Roman times. At 11.30am he uncorks several bottles of his wine made, to our excitement, from vines that emerged unscathed by the phylloxera that destroyed the vineyards of Europe in the 19th century. It is a thrillingly rare experience, made more delightful by del Olmo's general sense of joie de vivre. Soon, we are joined by his wife and baby daughter, and there is little wine left. We pour ourselves into the taxi home, utterly charmed by this rare show of hospitality and authenticity. These are the things that make this driving holiday such a remarkable find. So often, travel is a trade-off between luxury and authenticity. The problem with places off the beaten track is that they aren't well-equipped for high-end tourism. The problem with places well-equipped for high-end tourism is, well, they are full of high-end tourism. What a joy to find a means of experiencing the best of both. And it doesn't hurt that it's accompanied by vast rivers of red wine. Charlotte Ivers was a guest of the Luxury Holiday Company, which has five nights' B&B from £1,935pp on a Gastronomy & Wellness in Central Spain itinerary, including flights, car hire, spa treatments, a wine experience and some extra meals ( This article contains affiliate links that can earn us revenue By Richard Mellor Despite one of the main Camino de Santiago pilgrimage routes passing through its compact centre, Logroño remains wonderfully untouristy, aided by the absence of an airport (trains from Bilbao take two and a half hours). The capital of the winemaking Rioja region, it has an elegant old town where all 60-odd tapas joints have their own speciality — be it Juan y Pinchame's langoustine and pineapple skewers, Bar Ángel's fried mushrooms or Torres Gastrobar's legendary calamari-filled buns with lightly spiced bravas sauce. Logroño also does a fine line in bodegas — Franco-Españolas, just across the Ebro River from the old town, was once visited by Hemingway (tours £23; — and, best of all, is exceptionally affordable, even on a Saturday night on the main street, Calle del Laurel. Equally good value and just off that street is the chic Sercotel Calle Mayor hotel, inside a 400-year-old Room-only doubles from £75 ( Fly to Bilbao There's no doubting Girona's headline act. El Celler de Can Roca is the creation of the three Roca brothers — head chef Joan, pastry chef Jordi and sommelier Josep — and has three Michelin stars for its bravura takes on Catalan cuisine (15-course tasting menu, £270). It has topped charts of the world's best restaurants and spawned many sister establishments that are far easier to get into, including a natural wine bar, a comfort-food restaurant and a fancy ice cream parlour ( But this handsome, Catalan-speaking medieval city, 40 minutes by train from Barcelona, also has a raft of other great restaurants to try, including tiny BionBo, where each day's unique, wildly inventive menu might be themed to comedy, sport or music (six courses, £38; As for somewhere to stay, let's turn back to the Rocas: Jordi's Casa Cacao chocolate shop also includes 15 cosy bedrooms (and a rooftop terrace).Details B&B doubles from £219 ( Fly to Girona On the Mediterranean between Andalusia and Valencia, Murcia is a dream for vegetarians. Much produce hails from its surrounding, Moorish-era market gardens, while the local, lauded Torre Pacheco melons and Cieza peaches have protected geographical indication status. Delicious bomba rice and paprika made using ñora peppers are other staples, with zarangollo — scrambled eggs loaded with courgette and onion — paparajotes, a dessert involving batter-fried lemon leaves dusted in icing sugar, among the classic dishes. Far more ambitious takes on those await at Frases, down an alleyway near the grand, gothic-baroque cathedral. Awarded a Michelin star in November, this informal haunt champions a distinctly regional larder (five courses, £63; Nearby, past squares that throng on summer nights, is the simple, stylish Hotel B&B doubles from £74 ( Fly to Murcia Woody Allen's favourite Spanish city is a heartland for the produce of Spain's lush northwest. Most famously there's Asturian cider which, poured from a dramatic height to inject effervescence, can be tried in various old-school sidrerias along lively Calle Gascona, ideally in cahoots with platters of pixin (fried monkfish chunks) and tangy Cabrales cheese, Spain's stilton. You'll also find that, alongside good chorizo, in El Fontan market. Build up an appetite by roaming the student-filled old town, then consider sitting down to a staple plate of cachopo — two large, breaded beef or veal escalopes filled with ham and cheese. An atmospheric former 18th-century hospice, the Eurostars Hotel de la Reconquista serves nice breakfasts, but that doesn't mean you can't have a second one at the renowned Camilo de Blas pastry shop B&B doubles from £135 ( Fly to Oviedo Neighbouring Portugal, Extremadura is a low-profile region where good birdwatching, grand palaces and great galleries converge. Gastronomically minded visitors come chiefly for two of Spain's most sought-after foodstuffs: premier jamon iberico de bellota (Iberico ham from pigs fed on acorns) and gooey torta del Casar sheep's milk cheese. These anchor two of four food-focused driving routes — the others themed on olive oil and wine — that road-trippers might follow past quiet holm and cork oak pastures ( Otherwise, simply head for the beautiful city of Caceres, where storks nest in 12th-century walls and the sustainable, three-Michelin-starred Atrio draws foodies from as far as France for its avant-garde use of Extremaduran fare (19-course tasting menu, £236). The same old-town complex also contains 14 spacious, art-filled and spare contemporary bedrooms around a small B&B doubles from £463 ( Fly to Badajoz or Madrid