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The cheaper, quieter Amalfi Coast alternative only in-the-know Italians visit
The cheaper, quieter Amalfi Coast alternative only in-the-know Italians visit

Telegraph

timean hour ago

  • General
  • Telegraph

The cheaper, quieter Amalfi Coast alternative only in-the-know Italians visit

Envisioning Italy's coastline often conjures up the colourful cliffside villages of the Amalfi Coast, or the vibrant, emerald sea of Sardinia. However, tucked along the Adriatic coast in central Italy's Marche region, the Conero Riviera (Riviera del Conero) feels like a well-kept secret whispered only among those in the know – a slice of paradise far from the hordes. Towering over the 20 kilometres of shoreline is Monte Conero, a 572-metre limestone promontory that disrupts the usual, flat rhythm of Italy's other Adriatic beaches. Rich vegetation, characterised by Mediterranean scrub and Aleppo pines, spills down rocky slopes to meet white-pebbled beaches and azure waters, offering a theatrical interplay between cliffs, forest and sea. Beyond its raw nature, the coastline is punctuated by charming hilltop towns, where cobbled streets slalom past stone houses and panoramic terraces overlook the waves. Buses and trains are few and far between in the area, meaning renting a car is the best way to get around smoothly. Fortunately, there are a number of car rental services at nearby Marche Airport, which was recently ranked as Italy's 27th busiest – far below the likes of bustling Rome Fiumicino or Milan Malpensa. But this lack of public transport only helps to preserve Conero's authenticity. Take the walled town of Osimo, just 15 kilometres southeast of Ancona. Known locally as the 'town without heads' – a nod to the 12 headless statues which line the entrance of the town hall – Osimo's spiritual crown jewel, Cathedral of Saint Leopardo (named after the town's first saint), is a striking blend of Gothic and Romanesque architecture. Just a five-minute walk from the 12th-century cathedral is the Basilica of St Giuseppe of Copertino, a church teeming with colourful Giotto-style frescoes. Beneath the streets lies a labyrinth of tunnels and chambers, the caves of Osimo (grotte di Osimo), some of which date back 2,500 years. The multi-layered network, which can only be accessed with a tour guide, includes former worship sites, catacombs and war shelters. Of the four caves, Grotte del Cantinone is the largest. South of Osimo is the Conero Regional Park, a protected natural area home to rare coastal fauna and wild boar – the latter of which is also a staple on the menus of local agriturismi (farmstays), which dish up farm-to-table meals including local cheeses that are washed down with a glass of Rosso Conero, a full-bodied red made with Montepulciano grapes. Agriturismo Poggio del Conero and Agriturismo La Sorgente both come highly recommended. Trekking is a popular pastime in this neck of the woods, and though trails are well-signposted, it's advisable to check the Ente Parco del Conero website or AllTrails before heading out. The North and South Belvedere offer sweeping views of the blue-flag beaches below, whilst the Passo del Lupo trail offers a more focused view at the iconic Two Sisters (Le Due Sorelle) beach. Folklore has it this particular beach – named after the two stacks jutting out of the sea – owes its origins to a siren who lured sailors into a cave with her voice. To help her capture them, a sea demon transformed into a rock, which then split into two parts, forming the 'sisters'. To reach this wild beach, you'll need to take a boat from the neighbouring Numana port. Note that there are no beach services available here, however, so remember to bring your own towels, food and drink. If you're after easy-to-reach beaches with a few facilities, fret not: there are plenty in the surrounding area including, Portonovo, San Michele, Sassi Neri, Urbani and Del Frate. Del Frate beach is closest to Sirolo, a medieval village perched on the southern slopes of Monte Conero. The village has a laid-back, quaint feel, with many small shops selling handmade goods reflecting the town's heritage, and alleyways lined with an abundance of colourful houses perfect for getting lost in. For the best views, grab a gelato from Gelateria Quattrini (which makes classic flavours as well as experimental ones) and head over to the panoramic balcony, where rumour has it you can see Croatia on a clear day. Likewise, for aperitivo, swan over to Il Grillo to sip a glass of wine whilst snacking on olive all'ascolana, moreish green olives stuffed with mincemeat and cheese then fried in breadcrumbs. Ristorante della Rosa and Vicolo Urbani are both good options for dinner, both offering tasting menus and their own fresh produce – though the former has the added bonus of a sea view. Within walking distance of Sirolo is Numana, a town divided into two parts: the old-world Numana Alta and the livelier Numana Bassa. Both have easily accessible beaches with various amenities. Specialties along the shore include moscioli di Portonovo (mussels harvested from the area and served steamed, with lemon, or tossed in pasta) and brodetto all'anconetana, a rustic fish stew made with up to 13 types of seafood simmered in tomato, garlic and vinegar. While most towns in the area serve these dishes, one no-frills local favourite in Numana is Ricci Pescato & Fritto di Ricci Fernando, known for its freshly fried fish. The fare is easy on the purse strings without scrimping on flavour. If that isn't enough to whet your appetite, wine lovers can indulge in tastings of Rosso Conero (among others) at Fattoria le Terrazze vineyard – a winery that's been in the same family since 1882, and sits just a five-minute drive from the centre of Numana. Another short drive – this time inland – takes you to Loreto, a hilltop town famous for its Basilica della Santa Casa, believed to house the Holy House of Nazareth, where the Virgin Mary lived and received the Annunciation. It's one of Italy's most important pilgrimage sites, and a thoroughly fitting end to your offbeat adventure in Italy's best Amalfi alternative. Essentials

Are The World's Most Sustainable Cities Worth Visiting?
Are The World's Most Sustainable Cities Worth Visiting?

Forbes

timean hour ago

  • Business
  • Forbes

Are The World's Most Sustainable Cities Worth Visiting?

Helsinki, Finland, is one of the world's most sustainable cities. It's no secret that the world's most sustainable cities think their forward-looking views on the environment will attract more visitors. But what's less known is whether being green makes them worth a visit. What are the most sustainable cities? According to the latest Global Destination Sustainability Index (GDSI), they are Helsinki; Gothenburg, Sweden; Copenhagen; Bergen, Norway; and Aarhus, Denmark. (I hope you like Scandinavia.) The GDSI ranks cities' eco-friendliness, assessing 69 criteria across environmental, social, and economic factors. It gives a snapshot of a city's sustainability performance and highlights areas for improvement. Although it isn't focused on tourism, many destination management organizations tout their GDSI scores, hoping it will add to their appeal. "Being sustainable can have a long-term impact on a city as a tourism destination," says Evelyn Xiao-Yue Gong, who teaches operations management at Carnegie Mellon University's Tepper School of Business. "Being rated one of the most sustainable cities in the world inarguably increases the visibility of a city, and evokes travelers' curiosity, both of which are important stimulants for tourism prosperity." But Gong says there's a potential downside. Some visitors may experience inconveniences — like having to recycle or use mass transit instead of driving. "Nevertheless, these small frictions are typically outweighed by the overall positive push on tourism," she adds. But how exactly does that work? Let's go down the list by ranking. Helsinki Cathedral in the city center. The Finnish capital ranks first on a new sustainability list. One of the first things you notice about a city like Helsinki is how squeaky clean it is. Every piece of trash is picked up. Every leaf that falls off a tree is raked. "There are bikes everywhere," says Tampa marketing executive Jasmine Charbonier. "And I mean everywhere." I spent several days last year in Helsinki, and tourism officials there told me that they are pursuing sustainability without worrying about how it affects visitors. And yet it does. The city limits the number of cruise ships in its port, as do the other top sustainable cities. There's a heavy emphasis on mass transit. But most of the green initiatives are not noticeable to the average visitor. The only place where someone might feel it is in the wallet — all those initiatives cost money, so you'll pay more for hotels, restaurants and attractions. Älvsborgsbron Bridge over the sea in Gothenburg, Sweden. When I visited Gothenburg a few months ago, one of the things I noticed was how normalized their sustainability efforts had become. "It's been regarded as the most sustainable city in Europe for numerous years," says Duncan Greenfield-Turk, a travel advisor. "The city runs practically entirely on renewable energy, and public transport is rather effective, which makes exploration simple without a car." Greenfield-Turk says the culinary scene is a standout. Restaurants like Bhoga concentrate on seasonal, hyperlocal foods. Of course, you can't miss the cinnamon rolls at Café Husaren. But there, too, sustainability is not front and center. Gothenburg is known for its food and cultural attractions, and it just happens to be sustainable. Very sustainable. Copenhagen, Denmark, is rated as one of the most sustainable cities in the world. Denmark's capital also has a well-earned reputation for being green, as Lizet Wesselman discovered when she recently spent a month there. "They have an amazing recycling system, which is more extensive than I've ever seen anywhere else," says Wesselman, a blogger who specializes in sustainability. (It is indeed impressive — and complex.) But, she adds, that doesn't really affect tourists. "The two biggest things that are relevant for tourists are the extensive bicycle path network and the fact that the whole city seems to be cashless," she says. I've been touring the world's most sustainable cities, and was only in Copenhagen briefly last summer. But it certainly left an impression. I'm not sure if visitors will notice its commitment to sustainability or even if they will visit because of its sustainability — but there is no question this city means to be green. Panorama of historical buildings of Bergen at Christmas time. "Bergen is one of those places that quietly impresses you," says Cindy Scott, a videographer and outdoor adventurer. "It doesn't shout about its sustainability efforts, but you can feel it everywhere. The city just gets it." On my last trip to Bergen, I was stunned by the number of EVs on the road. Norway leads the way in EV adoption, and nowhere is that more obvious than Bergen, where you really have to look both ways before crossing the street. You can't hear the traffic coming. Scott said as a visitor, she noticed the EVs too, especially the buses. Also, she said the restaurants were proud of their local ingredients, which made them more sustainable. But like other sustainable destinations in Scandinavia, Bergen wasn't in her face about being green. Aarhus by night in the blue hour and reflection in the sea. In Aarhus, sustainability is more visible, according to Richard Burgon, who publishes an RV site. But it's not where you might expect. "I wasn't struck by the green spaces or the green technology," he says. "Rather, it was the extent to which the people living in the areas integrated sustainability in their lives." For example, he found a lot of urban farming projects in Aarhus (not unlike the ones I recently reported on in Berlin). "It felt like something from a futuristic novel," he says. There's a reason behind it. Aarhus has an ambitious plan to invest in green spaces and sustainable design to create a healthier and more livable environment. It's working toward a goal of becoming carbon neutral by 2030 through a range of initiatives, including increasing the use of renewable energy and reducing waste. A consensus of the travel experts I interviewed for this story was yes, it's worth going. But no, you probably won't see a lot of big sustainability projects. It's small stuff like many multicolored recycling bins, urban gardens, and lots of mass transport and bike paths. And it's also knowing that you're supporting a place that aligns with your values — if, indeed, being green matters to you. Kristin Winkaffe, owner of Winkaffe Global Travel, says for most of her clients, sustainability means visitability. "People are looking for places that align with their values," she says, "whether that's supporting local businesses, enjoying eco-friendly accommodations, or exploring cities that prioritize green spaces and clean energy." So if you care about the environment, consider adding one or more of these cities to your "must visit" list, says Jennifer Goff, a travel advisor who specializes in sustainable vacations. "The revenue directed toward local businesses, artisans, and sustainable programs helps improve infrastructure, provides more opportunities for local entrepreneurs, and creates jobs that are rooted in ethical practices," she says. Your visit will have a ripple effect. As tourism increases, other cities will see that sustainability can also affect profitability. And who knows, maybe you'll see your favorite place on the next GDSI list, which is due in October.

On Japan's Rural Coast, One Sleepy Town's Locals Are Vying For the Megacities' Travelers
On Japan's Rural Coast, One Sleepy Town's Locals Are Vying For the Megacities' Travelers

Condé Nast Traveler

time3 hours ago

  • Business
  • Condé Nast Traveler

On Japan's Rural Coast, One Sleepy Town's Locals Are Vying For the Megacities' Travelers

This is part of Uncovering Japan, a collection of stories that spotlight the lesser known gems that belong on your Japan itinerary, offering everything from a wellspring of local craft and a vibrant street-food culture to traditional wellness. Read more here. There is a small and rather unremarkable city of 30,000 people in one of Japan's rather unremarkable prefectures, located around three hours due north by train from Kyoto, called Obama. It would have remained that way were it not for something strange and serendipitous that happened in 2008: On the other side of the planet, the United States elected a president who shares his name with the oft-forgotten destination—an event that would unbury this little burg from its hardened obscurity. The town of Obama is located three hours north of Kyoto and stretches out into the Sea of Japan. William Sean Brecht Obama, in Japanese, roughly translates to 'little beach'—a fitting moniker for a city that yawns along a protected cove facing the northerly Sea of Japan. And when American political happenstance lent its name new relevance, its citizens came up with a plan to capitalize on their good fortune—not only to stoke the embers of tourism but to give their home a fighting chance of staving off the depopulation that has plagued many of the country's minor metropolises. Without the glittering towers of Tokyo, or the palaces and pagodas of Kyoto, Obama couldn't necessarily leverage its attractions, new or old. So locals made a bold bet on another cultural currency: its people. While soft smiles and polite words are the signature aspect of the Japanese hospitality experience, visitors can find it hard to pierce the veneer of 'omote'—an outward facing polish that can prove to be a major hindrance to the deeply connective experience many of us travelers crave. But this is not the case in Obama, where its citizens are focused on nurturing more genuine relationships with foreigners, duly inviting them into the fold. Without the glittering towers of Tokyo, or the palaces and pagodas of Kyoto, Obama couldn't necessarily leverage its attractions, new or old. So locals made a bold bet on another cultural currency: its people. And the wager is starting to pay off. With a soaring number of tourists—emboldened by the feeble yen—Japan's conduits of connectivity are already becoming clogged with the steadily accruing crowds. As a visitor, suddenly I craved the Japan I had discovered 20 years ago in my teens, and by the recommendation of a friend, I soon found myself at a rather unremarkable train station on a cold, snowless night late last December. Via MyTownObama, the author visited with geishas not for traditional dancing or shamisen playing; instead they talked for hours. Brandon Presser Obama's last remaining okiya, or geisha house, is inhabited by three generations who trained in Kyoto's illustrious hanamachi districts. William Sean Brecht I had arranged through MyTownObama for a locally based guide to pick me up, and not long after, we were ringing the doorbell of Obama's last remaining okiya, or geisha house, which is inhabited by three generations of these entertaining artisans. Although the grandmother of the house had retired, she briefly entered the salon in her house clothes to offer me an orange. Her daughter and granddaughter, both dressed in brilliant autumnal-themed robes, had trained in Kyoto's illustrious hanamachi districts, though there was no traditional dancing or shamisen playing tonight. Instead we talked for hours—no-holds-barred conversations that started with questions about life as a geisha before evolving into heated discussions about everything from favorite K-pop artists to post-Obama-era (the president this time, not the city) politics. Despite the late night I rose early the next morning to watch a fleet of fishing vessels bring in the latest catch and fill an entire depot with styrofoam boxes of crab, squid, and fish. Long ago, the fishermen explained, there existed what was called the saba-kaido, or mackerel highway, where local traders moved seafood from the port in which I stood across the mountain passes and down to feed the nobles in capital city Kyoto. This was also the channel through which many of Japan's major influences, including Buddhism, are thought to have reached the country's seat of power. Archaeological evidence proves that local merchants were trading with China as early as 300 CE; the elaborate pavilions Myotsu-ji temple complex were built contemporaneously with Kyoto's most storied—and most visited—places of worship, though you would never know it, as I had the entire campus to myself. The friendly abbot, on his break, walked me through. Fukui Hakusan Heisenji is in a valley an hour and a half north of us, about a 20-minute drive east of Fukui city. It's a great stopping-off point on the way into or out of Obama and/or as a day trip from Obama. William Sean Brecht Even today Obama is always looking beyond its borders. A walk down its main commercial streets will reveal a French-style bakery where staff serve the best croissants this side of the Pacific; a Thai restaurant that spins a mean curry (but only until 9:30 p.m., when the owner gets into his pajamas and crawls into bed upstairs); a chic vintage-eyewear boutique where the manager will let you try on every frame in the store; and an impossibly cool leathersmith who uses European techniques to craft one-of-a-kind wallets and satchels. He'll also brew you a thick cup of java from his proprietary batch of African shade-grown beans, if you ask nicely.

Annual sale: 5 reasons to subscribe to the Citizen-Times
Annual sale: 5 reasons to subscribe to the Citizen-Times

Yahoo

time4 hours ago

  • Business
  • Yahoo

Annual sale: 5 reasons to subscribe to the Citizen-Times

The Asheville Citizen Times and Hendersonville Times-News All-WNC track and field teams for 2025 NCHSAA, NCISAA seasons have been named. Roberson High School is playing in the state championship baseball series. New and old restaurants are finally opening after Tropical Storm Helene-caused tourism dip. Asheville and Buncombe County are facing budget shortfalls and proposed tax increases, also fallout from the unprecedented storm. The Citizen Times brings you exclusive coverage of all those topics and more — better than anyone in Western North Carolina. Take advantage of our annual subscription rate to and lock in unlimited access. Already a subscriber? Whether you get home delivery of the print edition or have a digital-only subscription, these benefits are included! Check out our activation guide for help on getting started. With a subscription, you can be one of the first to learn about breaking news with news alerts, flip through a digital replica of the print paper, get exclusive newsletters and more. Download the free app and start to personalize it to your liking. Additionally, you can download articles for offline reading and sign up for breaking and topical news alerts. Also in the app, you'll find the eNewspaper, available exclusively for subscribers. As an added benefit, subscribers can access the eNewspaper from any of our more than 200 sister papers across the United States, plus each edition of USA TODAY. ► SPECIAL OFFER: Save on a new subscription today. We know when you subscribe, you expect more. Each day, you can expect to see some of our award-winning storytelling, investigative work, sports analysis and more. Just log in with your account to enjoy your exclusive access. Here's some examples: What's happening post-Helene. Our investigation into Haven on the Hill, a temporary RV park set up for people displaced by the historic tropical storm, has found homeless discrimination, lack of basic services and alleged criminal conduct. Asheville Answers column. We know you have many questions about the lingering impacts from Tropical Storm Helene — the deadliest natural disaster in North Carolina history. Send us your questions. Each week a Citizen Times reporter will find you the answers. Asheville food news. Be the first to know when restaurants or breweries are reopening after Helene, and which are closing. Stay on top of all the latest news and trends in the city's food and dining scene. Enjoy a streamlined, fast-loading experience that makes it easy to view the stories, photos and videos you're most interested in. Through the app, you can personalize notifications so you can know the news right when it happens. You can select alerts for breaking news, news, sports, entertainment, weather and business. Quiet times for your alerts can be set within the app. Miss out on recent news? Get the latest effortlessly with our Catch Up feature. Want alerts when we publish something new on a topic you're interested in? Sign up to follow specific topics of interest with the "Add Topic" button at the top of articles. Personalize your feed further in the For You front. The app also provides you access to daily horoscopes and access to over 100 games. Want to follow the news from another city? You can add up to five of our sister publications across the country to get more news right in the app. ► DOWNLOAD THE APP: Get the latest news, sports and more To keep our subscribers informed, we email the most important articles to their inbox each day in the form of a Daily Briefing newsletter. Subscribers also get exclusive access to our Your Week newsletter. Each week, you'll get a note directly from the executive editor with background on a big story from the week, a behind-the-scenes look at our reporting and links to some of our top subscriber-exclusive work. ► SIGN UP FOR NEWSLETTERS: Browse our entire portfolio of newsletter offerings to pick more topics that interest you specifically. Right now, we have a special introductory offer. Visit our subscription page to start supporting our work that holds those in power accountable, and provides the news you need to make our communities stronger. Karen Chávez is Executive Editor for the Asheville Citizen Times, part of the USA TODAY Network. Tips, comments, questions? Call 828-236-8980, email KChavez@ This article originally appeared on Asheville Citizen Times: Why subscribe to Unlimited access, personalized app

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