All the flavours of Budapest: a culinary tour of the Hungarian capital

The Guardian

2 days ago

Whether you're grabbing a satisfying street food snack, sampling traditional Hungarian fare or sipping a wine crafted just beyond the city reaches, one of the best ways to enjoy Budapest is through your tastebuds.
The culinary scene reflects the essence of the Hungarian capital, with its combination of old-world grandeur and modern, pulsing energy.
Among the art nouveau spires are opulent 19th-century coffee houses, that really have to be seen to be believed. Think high ceilings, intricate panelling, chandeliers and golden flourishes, where the literati once debated over coffee and sweet treats. Markets and traditional restaurants serve hearty Hungarian dishes, while a new generation of experimental chefs give their take on local ingredients in Michelin-starred restaurants.
Budapest is just a two-and-a-half-hour flight with British Airways from London. It's the perfect excuse to plan a city break and discover the gastronomic delights of one of Europe's most magical cities.
Weaving together influences from east and west, from the Ottoman empire and Austria, Hungarian cuisine is a reflection of the country's complex history.
Rich, homespun dishes are the cornerstone of it all, often flavoured with Hungary's favourite spice – paprika – and featuring rich meats, seasonal vegetables, cheeses and fresh breads.
Any gourmet tour of Budapest should take in the signature dish, goulash. This warming stew consists of slow-cooked beef and vegetables, with the unmistakable smokiness of sweet paprika. And there are stews for all seasons, from summery lecsó (vegetable stew made with peppers, tomatoes, onions and paprika), to creamy chicken paprikash, with sour cream stirred into the gravy – a perfect winter warmer.
Don't miss halászlé, a fiery fisherman's soup served up in eateries around the Danube and Tisza river regions. Sundays are reserved for breadcrumbed and fried chicken, pork or turkey with potatoes and cucumber salad.
Eating on the go is all part of the adventure in Budapest. There are plenty of markets where you can refuel, from the vast, 19th-century Great Market Hall, where stalls serve street food on the third floor, to contemporary, colourful Lehel Market.
One of the best snacks to try is the humble deep-fried, cheese-topped flatbread known as lángos, slathered with sour cream and garlic. Don't miss kürtőskalács, a sweet, cylindrical chimney cake, wrapped around a spit to give it that distinctive shape and baked over an open fire. These tasty, truncated treats are coated in caramelised sugar as they cook, resulting in a golden-brown crust.
For meaty snacks, try Budapest's beloved kolbász (sausage), best washed down with a local beer. You'll also find hurka (liver sausage) and véres hurka (blood sausage) at street vendors around the city, usually served with mashed potato and sauerkraut.
Budapest has a strong cafe culture, with traditional coffee houses offering a glimpse into the city's glamorous past. Often adorned with dazzling frescoes and chandeliers, they form quite the backdrop for Hungarian coffee and decadent desserts.
Don't leave without trying somlói galuska, a layered sponge cake or Hungarian trifle filled with chocolate sauce, walnuts, and whipped cream, or dobos torte, a multi-layered chocolate and buttercream sponge topped with caramel brittle.
Prefer something a little lighter? Try rétes (strudel), a flaky pastry that comes in a variety of sweet fillings including steamed apple and sour cherry.
While traditional Hungarian dishes hold a special place, Budapest's culinary scene is far from being stuck in its ways. The city is experiencing a dynamic trend towards innovative fine dining, driven by a new generation of Hungarian chefs pushing boundaries with imaginative takes on classic Hungarian gastronomy.
The city is home to seven Michelin-starred restaurants – from Babel with its central European influence and wine pairing focus to the modern European Costes – and a liberal sprinkling of intimate dining venues that combine rich Hungarian flavours with the best of international cuisine. Expect sophisticated flavour combinations, artistic presentations, and contemporary twists on classic ingredients, showcasing the city's evolving style and increasingly refined palate.
The perfect pairing for Hungarian cuisine is one of the country's award-winning wines, and Budapest is well stocked with vintages from vineyards just beyond the city limits.
Hungary's rich winemaking tradition stretches back to Roman times, while the diverse range of indigenous grape varietals and fertile landscape make for some exceptional vintages.
Try the country's most famous wine, the sweet and complex white Tokaji, or combine a rich meat dish with one of the country's full-bodied reds such as those from the Eger and Villány regions.
For something a little different, Unicum is a traditional Hungarian liqueur made from more than 40 herbs and spices, blended and aged in oak casks for at least six months.
From hearty traditional dishes and delicious street food to elegant fine dining and opulent cafes, Budapest offers a feast for the senses. And it's easy to reach with British Airways.
Find out more and book your Budapest trip at ba.com. When you fly with British Airways, you'll enjoy a generous hand-baggage allowance and best of British service. You'll also be able to book an ATOL-protected holiday package with British Airways Holidays, with the option of low deposits and flexible payments