Country diary: Divers, porpoises and otters – this is a kinetic wildlife spot
I first landed in 1971 and have regularly seen porpoises, bottlenose dolphins, minke whales and, on occasion, basking sharks, but no trip here is complete without otters. This time, the first ones surfaced during the two-minute ferry across Cuan Sound, soon followed by two more enjoying the flume ride along a spring water runnel, a 'sheugh', towards the open sea. Amid the splashing and spluttering as they blew across the surface of the water like kids in a bath, they drew me on through a lush flush of wild watercress which I collected to later make soup with. They led me to the remains of an earlier catch being cleaned up by gulls, with a white‑tailed sea eagle watching on.
The big bird looked a bit tatty in her winter weeds and headed off for the dark and jagged Belnahua, another of the Slate Isles. I spotted an increasingly rare great northern diver sailing offshore, body slung low in the water. These are winter visitors to the UK, favouring shallow coastal areas for the ready supply of fish, squid, crustaceans and molluscs. Occasionally nesting in Scotland, they breed in Iceland, Greenland and the other side of the Atlantic where they are known as loons, famously seen and heard in the film On Golden Pond.
The bird ducked its head under the surface then propelled itself down with its powerful webbed feet. The wings are then used for further propulsion. Diving to depths of up to 60m, they can stay submerged for three minutes and usually swallow the fish before surfacing. It is fun, if futile, to predict when and where the diver will emerge.
With its jewel-like red eyes, my diver, like the white-tail, was a little scruffy, as it was morphing into its remarkable black and white chequered summer plumage, like the kinetic paintings of Bridget Riley.
• Under the Changing Skies: The Best of the Guardian's Country Diary, 2018-2024 is published by Guardian Faber; order at guardianbookshop.com and get a 15% discount
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Miami Herald
15-07-2025
- Miami Herald
Blast Off to Norwich for an Interplanetary Trip with Space Hamlet and Visit This Magical Medieval Town
Looking for an escape from the madness of London or the Edinburgh Festival Fringe? This summer, Norwich has the ticket for you. Not only does this vibrant regional capital offer all the medieval magic you'd expect-think majestic cathedrals, ancient castles and cobbled lanes-but August 5-9, join composer/lyricist Daniel Sturman and me (co-writer) as Open Door Theatre launches our show, Space Hamlet. This rock musical adventure catapults Shakespeare's classic to a universe of space-faring Vikings, glam rock, aliens and blue-green horned puppets. Just under two hours from London by train or car, Norwich is a city where time travel feels possible. Wander through the most complete medieval city in Britain, where you'll find more medieval churches than anywhere else in northern Europe, a Norman castle and winding riverside walks. Having been there several times, I can attest to the city's compact layout. Explore everything from medieval marvels to cosmic theatre without ever needing a car. A millennium ago after his conquest of England, William the Conqueror ordered the construction of the Norwich Castle, establishing Norman authority in what was then one of England's largest and wealthiest towns. The Castle is undergoing a major renovation, but its varied exhibits and galleries are still open to the Norwich and the region with separate galleries for natural history, archaeology and fine and decorative art from the past to the present including the Norwich School of Artists with landscapes and the Royal Norfolk Regimental Museum which spotlights 300 years of the county's history. Let us inspire your travels! Sign up for our newsletter now. Enjoy the splendor of the Norwich Cathedral, which has watched over Norwich for more than 900 at the soaring Norman architecture and 315-foot spire, which is the second tallest in leisurely through the Cathedral Close where the historic precinct surrounding Norwich Cathedral is enclosed by the former monastery's precinct wall. It covers about 44 acres beside the River Wensum and is accessible mainly through two medieval gates on Tombland: the Erpingham Gate and the Ethelbert a free guided tour to discover nearly 1,000 years of history that include civil unrest, plague, war and the famous peregrine falcons that nest in the spire each spring. See a New Musical – Space Hamlet See what might be heading next to London's West End with new musicals and plays at a half dozen theaters in a trip to the planet Denmark-3 for the new rock musical Space Hamlet, a futuristic twist on Shakespeare's classic with puppets, people and aliens. It follows on the heels of last year's sell-out new musical, Yippie Ki Yay! – a musical for the Die Hard movie fans. At the UK's largest protected wetland and a National Park, The Broads are easy to reach by train (10 minutes) or car (20 minutes) from Norwich. 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Travel Weekly
03-07-2025
- Travel Weekly
Visit Norway's summer travel pitch for families
Felicity Long Summer is officially here, and with it comes the age-old question of where to take the kids for vacation. With that in mind, Visit Norway is making a play for families that haven't already firmed up their summer plans and are looking for somewhere visitor-friendly where children of all ages can absorb the culture and let off steam with an array of indoor and outdoor activities. Here are their top tips for cool things to do, which encompass nearly every region of the destination: Take a hike. Norwegians are known for taking even their youngest children hiking, and there are so many trails to choose from, such as Gaustatoppen in Telemark, Keiservarden in Bodo or Utladalen in the Sognefjord area, that there's an entire website dedicated to the best ones. There are even trails designed to be more accessible for parents with strollers as well as for hikers using wheelchairs and walkers. Mountains and ziplines Want something more challenging? Tackle a trail on Galdhopiggen, Norway's highest mountain, which is accessible from Juvasshytta via gondolas. Or hop on a mountain bike on trails for all skill levels. Top suggestions include Trysil, which features trails and jumps; Hafjell Bike Park, with more than 19 downhill trails; and the Summer Park at Geilo with family-friendly trails. Ziplining is increasingly popular with families, and Norway offers a wide range of options, some of which, like the Loen, whiz riders over fjords at dizzying heights. Some ziplines are combined with climbing walls. The Over climbing tower in Lillesand in southern Norway and Hoyt & Lavt, in Vestfold, are two to try. Beaches and Vikings If all this sounds a bit too high-adrenaline for the family, hit the beach. Visit Norway isn't pretending that the water is Caribbean-level warm, but with white sand under your toes and miles of coastline to explore — not to mention crystal clear lakes with their own smaller shores — small fry can while away an afternoon making sandcastles while families with teens can hop on kayaks from secluded coves. Kids who love dress-up can be a Viking for a day at one of Norway's Viking centers, with activities that include sailing on a Viking ship. At the Medieval Farm in Stiklastadir, children can join a pretend battle, shoot with a bow and arrow and visit a Viking house. Animal lovers can see native fauna like elk, bears, wolves and moose, at Norway's many zoos and wildlife parks. You can even join a moose safari with a trained guide and usually by car. Theme parks and museums Theme parks are a perennial family favorite, and Dyreparken in Kristiansand is a unique zoo-and-theme-park combo with a waterpark with its own "pirate" land where kids walk the plank. Other options include Kongeparken in Rogaland, Tusenfryd near Oslo or Hunderfossen Family Park in Lillehammer, known for its rides and troll theme. Norway's science museums are full of hands-on activities, climbing walls and virtual reality zones. The Technical Museum in Oslo features an engaging summer program, while the Kistefos Sculpture Park is an outdoor venue with eye-popping, and sometimes spooky, sculptures. Why now? One reason for visiting Norway in summer is the midnight sun, which means that kids can stay up longer and make the most out of each vacation day. Where to stay Accommodations are plentiful and include traditional hotels — Scandic and Radisson each have 90 properties around the country, for example. Or families can opt for stays at one of De Historiske's 66 historic properties throughout the destination. Cabin living is also big in Norway, and options range from rustic to posh and can even include stays in a lighthouse or tree house. Visit Norway is especially proud of its new Fairytale Finder App, designed to help travel advisors and families — especially those with kids age 4 to 12 — navigate the dizzying number of options for things to do and places to stay.
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Travel + Leisure
28-06-2025
- Travel + Leisure
These Hot Springs Are the Perfect Blue Lagoon Alternative—and They Have Stunning Fjord Views and Seal ‘Supervisors'
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