Casey, from Italy to India
Just before this, we spent a few days in Italy, staying in a Venetian villa on the Brenta Canal. It was everything Casey loves. This became the riviera for wealthy Venetians between the 16th and 18th centuries, and our hotel, Villa Margherita, has frescoes, fine furnishings, boldly and traditionally patterned textiles, and period furniture.
Casey is in his element and I don't even break it to him that we'll only be home a couple of days before coming to India.
There are some aspects of the subcontinent which are simply not Casey's cup of chai. I instantly recall an image of him jammed into a bright yellow, highly chromed auto rickshaw with 'Jesus Loves' hand-painted across the back and Bollywood music blaring out as we (literally) bumped our way round Kochi, in the south-west.
I quickly remember the time he was totally lost in Mumbai airport. I searched for nearly two hours and finally spotted 'his royal blueness' in a 5m-tall pyramid of black luggage which someone, for some reason, had pulled off a conveyor belt. ('It might be in the lost pile,' an official had said brusquely, pointing me there.) And not too buried in my memory is the hotel in Agra which was so dirty Casey literally stuck to the floor.
There have been highs higher than those lows have been low, so here goes India again…
But this time Casey and I (not necessarily in that order, but don't tell him) have been invited by Uniworld, which has a river cruise ship on the Ganges, sailing short return voyages from Kolkata — still one of my favourite cities in India.
We are heading to their ship, the Ganges Voyager II, but in a loop through Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, staying at Oberoi hotels along the way.
We arrive in Delhi and are escorted into the Oberoi Gurgaon, where a florist is just completing a sphere of red carnations in the lobby. Hundreds and hundreds of perfect flowers in a huge ball of Oasis.
Casey visibly quivers with joy as I duck slightly to have a garland of plump marigolds put around my neck. In Indian Hindu life, these bright orange and yellow flowers are said to be the favourite offerings of many Hindu gods and goddesses. They are linked to Surya Dev, the sun god in Hinduism. Laksmi might likes the lotus and Kali might craves a hibiscus, but lords Vishnu and Ganesha admire the marigold.
They are a symbol of the divine aura and, when we get to our beautiful and spacious room, I put it around Casey, spreading the blessing.
But Casey is otherwise engaged — viewing the amenities, wallpaper with its lotus symbols, the full-sized bath and luscious bed.
At the Oberoi Amarvilas in Agra and Oberoi Rajvilas in Jaipur, the marigold greeting is repeated and, as the story of Casey spreads, his arrival and farewell are taken increasingly seriously.
Indeed, when we leave Oberoi Rajvilas, the baggage handler is careful to place him on top of all other luggage, and to solemnly salute him farewell.
Casey absolutely loves all this. I can see his ego visibly inflating to trunk-like proportions…
At the domestic airport in Kolkata, having just flown direct from Jaipur in a couple of hours with the rather good IndiGo (clean, efficient, new plane but you buy your food), I let Casey go past me and round the big, slow, looping luggage delivery belt.
I think one more circuit might just rattle him. It might just take the wind out of his sails. Take him down a peg. He might just appreciate me a bit more. And all of that is a good thing as we make this jump from Rajasthan, with its monumental buildings (Taj Mahal, Pink Palace) and pretty things (block-print cotton, whirling dancers, bangles) to Bengal — to this dense heart and soul of India. It has a different political, creative and emotional 'temperature'. India's independence, as it built up to the British leaving in 1947, and the land reform that followed in 1950 are just two examples of movements seeded and grown in the fertility of Bengal.
For Bengal also has the Ganges — this holy river, descended from heaven and caught in Lord Shiva's hair.
Bengal is a testing hotbed of thought and belief and resistance.
But Uniworld's Ganges Voyager II is not. It is calm and very comfortable. Casey is escorted to our suite, with its four-poster bed, big bathroom (with a 2m-deep shower), armchairs and air-conditioning.
After placing Casey on the luggage stand, the room attendant takes one step back and puts his palms together, fingers pointing upwards in what we would recognise as a traditional form of prayer.
He bows: 'Namaste.'
Uniworld's tour manager, Vishal Bhaskar, has explained one meaning — that the two hands represent our two hearts. The left is his, the right is mine, and this is them coming together.
The deeper the accompanying little bobbing bow, the more the respect.
As the room attendant does this, I am standing next to Casey and, to this day, I'm not sure who he is bowing to.
Well, this is different. Casey and I have flown home from India with Singapore Airlines (him in the hold, me in 66K), had one day at home (Casey emptied, all washing and ironing done) and flown direct from Perth to Uluru.
And here is Casey, on a luggage trolley, being dragged out into the Red Centre sun.
We were on our charter flight, in partnership with our great friends at Holidays of Australia, with around 100 readers. National Jet Express brought baggage handlers with us and, rather than being loaded onto a conveyor belt at Yulara, the airport for Uluru (sparing Casey that mortifying extra lap), the chaps have brought the bags straight out to the coaches.
Our guests don't have to handle them at all. In fact, when we get to Sails in the Desert, the five star hotel at the Yulara townsite, the bags will be taken straight to their rooms.
When I get to mine, Casey is already there, standing cheerily on the jolly Red Centre toned carpet.
I hadn't expected Casey to be so amenable.
I hadn't expected him to take our shift to red dust and spinifex so well.
Casey isn't a fan of either, frankly, and I rather think he could do with a few days at home, just to let our recent travels settle and resonate, and to enjoy the echo. We all need that, sometimes. I think the gaps between our journeys can be as important as the trips themselves. This is when our experiences and reactions more firmly embed in us; they expand, enrich, inform and enhance us. They percolate through us.
But Casey shows no sign of this. The weather at Uluru is perfect on this mid-June day — cool with a blue sky, and gentle sun, which is coming in through the window and falling in a warming shaft across Casey's blueness.
I'd swear that Casey is exuding contentment.
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This dramatic example of Moghul architecture, built by Empress Bega Begum for the deceased Emperor Humayun, was completed in 1572. We visit Raj Ghat, where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated after his assassination by another Hindu in 1948, and bounce through the laneways of Old Delhi in cycle rickshaws. The Oberoi hotel group is a fine fit for the Uniworld package, as this is very much an India company, and proud of it. That comes through, again, in loyal and long-term staff, who are well trained and have pride in their work, and being part of Oberoi. A comfortable air-conditioned coach takes us on to Agra, where we see the Taj Mahal both at sunset and sunrise. Not only that, but I can see it from the window of my room at The Oberoi Amarvilas — just as you can from every room. This beautiful hotel, with pools bringing freshness to its entrance, and a grand lobby with a huge chandelier, is built for guests to fully experience the Taj Mahal. The pool area is that side of the building. And, to top it all, it is literally a stone's throw from the great, white marble monument built by Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his wife, Mumtaz Begum. It took 22 years to build and was completed in 1653. Another coach trip takes us on to Jaipur, the pink city. And the city does, indeed shimmer pink in the warm evenings. We visit City Palace, still run by a royal family and Jantar Mantar Observatory, built between 1728 and 1734, where 17 big astronomical instruments accurately plot the skies. A highlight for me is always the Amber Fort with its beautiful Ganesh Gate and Hall of Mirrors. But another highlight for me is the Oberoi Rajvilas. I do actually love this hotel — as it is built around an ancient temple. As the stone plaque outside rightly says: 'This ancient 280-year-old Lord Shiva Temple adds a very positive oorja (energy) and spiritual serenity to the entire resort.' Prayer is conducted by a local priest twice every day: 'We welcome you to participate in this age-old tradition and seek divine blessings.' More than 150 peacocks stroll the grounds and more than 1000 species of migratory and resident birds have been identified in these beautiful and extensive gardens. To me, Oberoi Rajvilas is more than a hotel. It is a sort of rare-air village, with rooms set at ground level among the gardens. My sunken white marble bath looks out at a private garden courtyard. The four-poster bed is set in the large main room, which has a window seat and a writing desk in one corner. There's a separate walk-in dressing room. Pathways to the rooms have gardens, waterways and fountains. Oberoi Rajvilas has a past, but also has an abundant, sharing life, here in the present. I feel the spirituality of the place. I feel deep joy (two words that roll around my head as I stroll in the gardens, visit the temple and feel a tranquil sense of 'coming home'). And I am completely unsurprised when my butler introduces himself. 'My name is Deepjoy.' + Stephen Scourfield was a guest of Uniworld. They have not influenced, or read this story before publication. + Ganges Voyager II sails from September to March and is in high demand, so travellers need to plan and book ahead. Most do this through a travel agent, can book direct with Uniworld by calling 1300 370 792. Also see + Uniworld has two packages which include a seven-night cruise on Ganges Voyager II. India's Golden Triangle and the Sacred Ganges is a 13-day package from New Delhi to Kolkata. It starts with Delhi, Agra and the Taj Mahal and Jaipur and the Pink Palace, staying in Oberoi hotels. Then travellers join the ship. In 2026, it is from about $12,239 per person in a Signature Suite, depending on date and cabin type. That includes excursions and 12 breakfasts, 10 lunches and nine dinners. Meals onboard prepared are excellent, using fresh ingredients. There is already limited availability. Bicton Travel is a key travel agent handling bookings for the packages. 9339 0277 + The other, 16-day package combines cruise and rail and is The Sacred Ganges and the Maharajas' Express — a luxury train from Delhi to Agra, Ranthambore, Jaipur, Bikaner, Jodhpur, Udaipur and Mumbai. Guests cruise the Ganges first on Ganges Voyager III, and fly from Kolkata to Delhi on day eight, to join the train. In 2026, it is from about $34,4843 per person, and there is already limited availability. + Both packages include welcome and farewell gala dinners.
