4 Surprising Truths I Learned Testing Dozens of Mascaras

New York Times

07-02-2025

The best mascaras plump your lashes and let you forget about them completely. The worst mascaras flake, itch, and annoy all day. I should know: I spent months researching mascara and talking with product development specialists and cosmetic chemists, then I spent several more wearing dozens of different formulas. I found many favorites—you can read about our picks in our guide to mascara—and I also learned four surprising truths that helped me be a more savvy shopper.
It's never been easier to find high-quality formulas at an amazing price. In fact, during testing we found many drugstore formulas that far outperformed pricier brands.
The larger beauty conglomerates that own many budget brands also produce high-end makeup that's shockingly similar for triple the price. For example, L'Oréal owns the brand Maybelline, which makes one of our picks, Lash Sensational Sky High Mascara. And it also owns Lancôme, a brand that sells mascaras for more than $30. Connie Park/NYT Wirecutter
Much of the difference is in the wands and the wiper, said product development expert Alexis Androulakis. Their design impacts how much formula winds up on the brush and the effect the bristles have on lashes.
Or it may be simply a matter of marketing. Take a look at one of the least expensive mascaras we tested, the Essence Lash Princess False Lash Effect Mascara (about $5), and the Gucci L'Obscur Lengthening Mascara (about $36). Each one contains the usual mix of waxes, pigments, and preservatives. But Gucci's peachy-pink tube, Gucci logo, and tactile gold wand feel luxurious and special. That chic packaging may or may not be worth more money to you, but be clear-eyed about what you're getting. (Though, for the record, neither of these mascaras impressed us much during testing.)
Mascaras that claim to curl lashes aren't telling you the whole truth. No tube of mascara can actually alter the curl pattern of one's lash.
What mascara can do is make lashes look more lifted by combining them with a curved brush while applying a fast-drying formula to hold the shape. It doesn't curl lashes as much as arrange them upwards and outwards a bit. Cosmetic chemist Ni'Kita Wilson said, 'When the solvent in the mascara evaporates, the lashes will be fixed in that curl pattern.'
If your lashes are particularly straight or droopy, an eyelash curler—we like this one from Shiseido—will give you a much better result. It temporarily reshapes the lashes with mechanical force, said Androulakis. Set the curl with mascara, and it should last longer and deliver shapelier results than any curling formula.

This tubing mascara encases lashes with a shiny black film that elongates and doesn't smudge. It's not technically waterproof, but it's exceptionally durable and long-lasting.] $26 from Thrive Causemetics
Washable mascaras often break down throughout the day, flaking into the eye and causing irritation, especially for those with sensitive eyes. Tenacious waterproof formulas might fare a bit better, but getting them off could require irritating remover and rubbing. Tubing mascaras are known for creating dramatic, lush lashes, but they also happen to be far less irritating to eyes. Connie Park/NYT Wirecutter
Androulakis said, 'Their higher level of film formers give the strongest performance and wear.' They envelop and seal each lash in a flake-free sheath until removed, sliding off each lash in 'tubes' with just warm water and a gentle pulling motion.
While testing, we discovered that removing these formulas, such as that of our pick from Thrive Causemetics, does have a bit of a learning curve—but once our testers nailed it, they found them easier to wash off than traditional formulas. The mascara gently peels completely away from the lashes, leaving no product residue to aggravate sensitive eyes.
If you have sensitive eyes and would rather skip the tubing mascara, do avoid formulas with allergens like diazolidinyl urea and formalin (both used as preservatives), which can irritate the eyelids and cause dryness and itching.
Speaking of preservatives, they're important ingredients in mascaras to prevent bacteria and mold from invading your tube (or worse, your eyeballs). So even though the phrases 'clean' and 'paraben-free' often get tossed around in mascara ads, those preservatives are essential.
But beauty brands understand the fickle nature of shoppers, and they know how to pivot to meet the moment. 'Parabens used to be the go-to preservatives,' said Androulakis. 'However, over the years, some concerns have been raised about parabens potentially being endocrine disruptors. Although the evidence isn't definitive, many consumers prefer to avoid them just to be cautious.'
Once customers began clamoring for paraben-free makeup, brands started leaning into alternative preservatives such as phenoxyethanol (an ingredient in all our favorite mascaras), as well as other preservative-boosting ingredients like ethylhexylglycerin. But all this means that referring to mascara as 'clean' is just marketing.
This article was edited by Patricia Tortolani and Jennifer Hunter.

What I Cover
Meirav Devash has covered beauty trends for over two decades as a magazine editor and writer, personally testing an unreasonable number of cosmetics, skin-care items, and hair products. She has an encyclopedic knowledge of lipstick and heavy metal.