Photography: Laura Murray Shrimp Loaf

Time Out

19-05-2025

New Orleans has a special place in my heart. Yes, my first visit in my twenties was marked with three-for-one drinks and frozen slushies dispensed in bars, malls—really, anywhere I could find get one. But in my subsequent travels down south, I've been more focused on how locals actually live, and more importantly, eat. While you can't truly define the cuisine of New Orleans in one sentence, Creole cookery, warming bowls of gumbo and all the oysters for the plucking is most definitely part of the story. So when Strange Delight made its debut last summer, I was more than happy to see a bit of New Orleans make its way to New York.
Even from the street, the restaurant makes itself known with a greenish tiled facade and shutters that perpetually stay open and welcoming. Walking inside, the front room almost reads like a diner, with cream tiled walls, soft globe lights and a squat marble bar with stripes of blue, brown and yellow. The counter provides the best shot of the expo kitchen, where you can catch chefs frying extra-large catfish nuggets, while others spoon generous hunks of seasoned butters onto oysters before they meet the fire of the oven. The back room is more formal and farthest away from the clanks of the kitchen, with turquoise booths, an illuminated back bar and even a skylight on the ceiling. While the back is probably the best for families and those who like quiet while they eat, those who appreciate the rhythm of the kitchen will appreciate the bar near the entryway. Is the air permeated with a thin film of oil from the fryer? Yes. Do you also get whiffs of Cajun steamed prawns pulled fresh from the oven? Also, yes.
Naturally, with it being a NOLA-inspired joint, seafood reigns supreme. One of my first bites, the Smoked Fish Dip ($20), was so good I considered making the entire review about it alone. Blanketed with handfuls of dill and cilantro, the crabby dip is further complemented with bright pops of lemon. However, the vehicle in which to get it to your mouth, the Creole fried saltines, is in a category all their own. Served in a paper bag, the red-tinged crackers are buttery with a nice back-end of heat that brings it all together. As one of the last tables of the night, I was gifted with another bag of crackers from the server. (I cherished them greatly over the next few days.)
Other seafaring selections include oysters and shrimp that you can put together in a seafood tower, ranging from $38 to $130. But if you end up choosing oysters, it is the charbroiled varieties that truly give a taste of the Big Easy. In a smart move, Strange Delight nods to the storied institutions that have preceded it, with Oysters Rockefeller presented in the style of the centuries-old, fine dining institution Galatoire's. While I have yet to visit the New Orleans oyster house that is Felix's, I can now say that I've at least had their oysters, as the Charbroiled Oysters are prepared in the same way. A garlicky and buttery number, the oysters are made even richer with a sprinkle of Parm and breadcrumbs. Speaking of rich, a dozen of these charbroiled beauties come in at a whopping $72 for twelve. However, it's worth the spend to try at least one, so if you are in a small group, the more reasonable (but still pricey) cost of $18 for three is enough to get the experience of it.
Another must-add to the table are the Hush Puppies ($14). While a number of my Hush Puppies experiences have ranged from gummy balls to downright nitty-gritty numbers, Strange Delight's are, dare I say, delightful. The craggy-looking balls give way to a light, almost sugary crust that nearly dissolves once bitten. It all comes with a butter-kissed honey that easily melts as soon as it's spooned.
Yet, the one dish that I was the most excited about were the po'boys. Strange Delight has a lineup of po' boys for the taking, from the Fried Shrimp Loaf to veggie-forward Fried Green Tomato Loaf. Giving the sandwich a needed update, all the sandwiches swap out crusty baguettes for pillowy milk bread made in house. I went for the Oyster Loaf while my dining companion tried the Catfish Loaf. Each sandwich was a hefty, two-handed thing and the usage of milk bread was a lovely addition—the many layered pickled bits quickly overwhelmed the fish. Pulling out the oysters individually, I finally got some salinity and flavor. But even then, there was more breading to be had than oyster. Overall, it was a good sandwich, but maybe not as mind-bendingly good as I've heard. Still, I wouldn't mind another visit just to snag those coveted crackers.
Restaurant Vitals
The vibe: The times to be had here are laid back, and almost, can we say, easy? The front room is a bit more boisterous, so be prepared to speak over the happenings of the kitchen and the rap music pumped over the speakers. The back area is a bit more tame with booths for larger groups and an illuminated bar.
The food: New Orleans is alive and well here. Seafood is fresh and sourced locally, hush puppies hit the spot and the po' boys sandwiches come plenty hefty with fish and a nice, snappy giardiniera. Every meal ends with a dessert on the house, a milk bread pudding drizzled a Sazerac custard. It's like a warm hug at the end of the meal, so you better eat it up fast before the temp starts to drop.
The drink: It would be remiss to visit a New Orleans-style spot and not get a Hurricane, no? Strange Delight's Hurricane comes properly boozed and never oversweetened, with a nice passionfruit taste, all poured over that good ice. They also make a mean Sazerac that will get you properly boozed.
Time Out tip: Sandwiches for charity? Strange Delight has them. The restaurant's springtime sandwich series, 'Live, Laugh, Loaf,' has partnered with a number of chefs like Hawa Hassan, Sohla El-Waylly and