Free Solo climber Alex Honnold: ‘If you gave me $50m I wouldn't be any happier'

Telegraph

6 days ago

Alex Honnold, 39, is an American professional rock climber, widely regarded as the best in the world. He found fame in 2017 when he became the only person to climb the 2,900ft (883 metres) El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, California without a rope, as captured in the Oscar-winning film Free Solo. In 2012, he founded the non-profit Honnold Foundation, which provides grants for solar energy projects worldwide.
Today he lives in Las Vegas with his wife and two daughters.
How did your childhood influence your attitude to money?
I've never been stressed about money. The way we grew up was solid, keeping things simple. My parents were teachers so we had enough but not a ton of it, and having just enough money for things you need is still my attitude.
I grew up in suburban Sacramento, California. I never wanted much and I got the things I needed, like Lego. Now my attitude is 'if you need a thing, buy it. If you don't need it, don't.'
What was your first job?
Besides doing jobs for the family like yard work and pruning my grandparents' trees, I worked at a climbing gym from the age of 14. I'd do things like sweeping floors and helping out at birthday parties where blind kids would take turns climbing the wall – 'Lift your feet, you're safe. Don't worry!' I'd say.
Are you a saver or a spender?
Saver, because the things I'm interested in – climbing, outdoor adventures and higher performance – you can't buy. I love sweets and chocolates but that's no luxury, it's 10pc of my diet!
Did you climb as a kid?
Actually Sacramento is only an hour and a half away from the Sierra Nevada... and I did occasionally go and climb in those places, but as a suburban kid I didn't have access to a car. I climbed tons of trees and buildings as a kid. That was a big part of why my parents took me to the climbing gym because I was already climbing all these other things.
Have you had to resist suggestions that you get a 'proper job'?
Definitely. While living in the van for 10 years and climbing a lot, people would often say, 'Should you finish your education and make something of your life? ' Less so when they think you're famous. Now nobody asks if I'm going to get a real job.
There's a 'winner takes all' nature of some sports and entertainment where if you get to the top it's super-easy, but if you don't it's really hard. All my climbing friends are as good as me at climbing, or better. Yet because I've had a movie made about me, and get corporate speaking opportunities, it's much easier for me to make a living.
Have you ever had trouble paying your bills?
No. My overheads were incredibly low for a decade. I lived in a van because I was climbing all the time, and you could really only spend money on food and gas. My mobile phone bill was really low, and I've never had any debt, so I've lived very cheaply for a long time. I wasn't trying to.
Does money make you happy?
What you can do with money makes me happy, like being able to climb wherever I want. If you added $50m to my account, it wouldn't make me happier or change my life. I'd probably give it all to my foundation, which would make me satisfied.
Do you own property?
Yes, in Las Vegas. It also has another unit we rent to my in-laws. We held on to the first small, cheap house I bought down the road, which we rent to one of my father's co-workers. Our home is surrounded by amazing open land where you see desert tortoises, roadrunners, coyotes and horses walking around.
How does money affect the climbing industry?
I think the more money that comes into climbing the happier everybody is. More people can make a living from it if there's a surrounding industry. Just like cycling, where there must be tens of thousands of people earning as a result of the sport. Then good climbers who are never going to be the most well-known professional climbers can make a business as coaches, nutritionists or helping others.
What's the most you're paid for corporate talks?
Embarrassingly large amounts, five to six-figure sums. I've always been glad I can make a living doing the thing I love.
Have you done lucrative TV commercials?
Yes, a totally crazy one. I was a stunt double for a Citibank commercial in 2012. A lead climber friend was the focus of it with just one shot of my face while she climbed a spire. They used it extensively for two years and we wound up making six figures in residual cheques.
For two days' shooting I made more than my teacher sister made in two years. That's a big part of why I started my foundation. Commercials are fun and easy money but what do you need it for? It won't change the quality of my life. It's a good way to give it away.
What's the hardest lesson you've learnt about money or business?
I've invested money in friends' businesses, some of which I'm pretty sure I'll never get back. You could take that as a lesson about being responsible with investments. But I think it's worth supporting friends sometimes, even if you're only investing money you can afford to lose.
I was once sponsored by Beyond Meat with a bunch of stocks without me really putting money into it. For two months their stock was valued at $1m and after it dropped a lot I gave some to the Honnold Foundation. Now it's down to $5,000-$10,000. It's easy to say, 'I lost $990,000!' but it's not like I did anything to earn the stock.
Have you gambled?
No but living in Vegas I joke that I prefer only to gamble with my life.
How quickly did your fame lead to fortune?
My 17-year professional climbing career has been a slow, gradual build. I also joke that I'm an overpaid day-labourer because I still get paid by the day for appearances.
My very first paying sponsor paid me $100 a month. I thought, 'They're paying me to rock-climb. That's great!'
The North Face has been my biggest and most important sponsor for my entire career: starting with a $3,000 travel budget, my first three years I got paid $10,000, $12,000, $15,000. Now it's six figures a year. I haven't really had to buy climbing gear for years because I've been sponsored by companies since 2007-08.
How does the Honnold Foundation work?
It started from wanting to do something useful to help people and the environment. First it was just me giving my money away to non-profits I thought were doing meaningful work, mostly solar projects. Now I do it through the foundation.
In the past two years I've given $650,000 to it, which covers staff salaries. Anything they fundraise from corporate sponsors or small donors – I've contributed maybe a third – goes directly to grants to non-profits. I'm covering everything else. Over the past two years we've given $2m in grants each year.
Has your travelling had its funny side?
I've spent so many nights in nice hotels because corporate speaking is always held in some fancy resort. I've spent six weeks in a leaky tent in Greenland with a storm raging. I want to do whatever's easiest, whether it's a nice hotel and you're like, 'Ooh!' or sleeping on a bench outside.
Podcaster Tim Ferriss had me on a podcast while I was living in the van. He lived in San Francisco; I didn't want to fight traffic so I drove there and the next morning rolled out and was like, 'I'm here for the podcast. Let's do it!' He was like, 'So you're the creepy van parked out the front of my house.'
For more information visit honnoldfoundation.org. TV documentary The Devil's Climb, featuring Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell climbing one of the most dangerous mountains in North America, can be seen on Disney+.