The country that has rebranded from backpacker destination to cultural escape

Independent

07-08-2025

'Hi, please can I have a conversation with you?' asks a 12-year-old Vietnamese boy named Peter, along with his younger brother Ethan, as I squeeze my way through a dense crowd of people in Hội An, the charming, well-preserved ancient town in central Vietnam.
The pair started learning how to speak English six months ago and were keen to practise with foreign travellers seeking a combination of comfort, culture and adventure.
Before we are interrupted by the pervasive motorcycle culture – forcing both locals and tourists to be street smart – Peter and I exchange a few basic questions and answers in English, as his father beams with pride from across the street.
As I pass market stalls selling fresh fruit, vegetables, electric fans, phone accessories, lanterns, knock-off designer clothes and bags, and painted coconut shells, I make the mistake of catching the eye of a business-savvy Vietnamese woman who lures me over and asks me if I want to buy any of the jewellery and trinkets she has made.
Hội An is also renowned for its tailoring industry, offering a wide range of custom-made clothing at affordable prices.
Yaly Couture was founded by 51-year-old Quynh Trinh, and has since become the place where locals and tourists visit to get their bespoke tailoring done quickly – sometimes as little as three hours, thanks to her 486 members of staff – and at traditional value.
Celebrity fans apparently include TV presenter Jeremy Clarkson, 65 – who Trinh says 'ran laps around her shop' due to his excitement, and musician Mick Jagger, 82.
I decide to have a Vietnamese -inspired navy blue linen two-piece sleeveless top and trouser set made, and Trinh gifts me with a bronze half-neck keyhole maxi dress inspired by one I found on TikTok.
I'm assigned to one of her members of staff, who takes all of my measurements, helps me pick out appropriate material, arranges a fitting and makes both of my designs in less than 24 hours.
There is still so much to do in Hội An. So to better understand the original ways of Vietnamese tribal culture, I am also transported to their enchanting world at Hội An Lune Center for the Performing Arts with a production of Teh Dar – one of the Vietnamese Bamboo Circus performances of Lune Production.
During the performance, guests hear songs that have been sung deep in the forests and whispered around tribal flames for generations.
It's also a great opportunity to hear how a buffalo horn sounds with other percussion instruments.
Later, after a boat ride down the river, illuminated at night by hundreds of floating lanterns, I have a heartwarming five-course meal – which is gluten-free friendly – at the newly opened La Table Hội An restaurant, where French culinary tradition meets the soul of Vietnam.
On my evening stroll, I'm also able to admire the unique architectural structure of the infamous Japanese Bridge, and understand the influence it has on the bridge that also features at Banyan Tree Lăng Cô.
Over many years, Vietnam has built a strong reputation for being a backpacker's dream destination.
But whilst spending time in Hội An, and at Angsana Lăng Cô and Banyan Tree Lăng Cô, both part of the Laguna Lăng Cô integrated resort, I'm certain it has more to offer.
The resorts feature the 18-hole Laguna Golf Lăng Cô, designed by the legendary Sir Nick Faldo, and offers convenient access to all shared facilities and centralised services, including Terra Kids Club and Laguna Water Sports Centre.
Banyan Tree Lăng Cô is dedicated to quiet luxury and creating intimate and romantic experiences for couples, and Angsana Lăng Cô is a 220-room safe haven for all of the family to enjoy.
The first night at Angsana Lăng Cô set the tone of my time in Vietnam. I'm welcomed with a BBQ dinner party on the private beach – there is no private beach in Vietnam, but it's private at the resort – where all the seafood is sourced directly from the local Cù Dù fishing village, also known as Cua Van in Ha Long Bay.
Cù Dù is a unique floating village where residents live in traditional houses on boats and rafts, making a living from fishing and aquaculture.
I'm offered a glimpse into the local culture and the stunning natural beauty of the bay, whilst eating everything from lobster, oysters – which were cooked because of pesticides – squid, fish, and papaya salad with shrimp, just to name a few dishes.
During a tour of both resorts, it is easy to see how much of the architecture is inspired by local culture.
At Angsana Lăng Cô, I stay in the beach suite, which feels like a home away from home.
There's a living room and dining area, and access to a private pool with timber deck sun loungers, a kitchenette and a separate bedroom.
Every half an hour, from 8am, a Vietnamese-inspired boat takes you on a 10-minute journey down a fairy garden to Banyan Tree Lăng Cô. And at the entrance, there is a traditional cong used to welcome me and other guests.
Banyan Tree Lăng Cô – where I end my stay – is where I experience the serenity of the beach pool villa – only a few minutes from the private beach.
I have my own private infinity pool with a heated jacuzzi, a timber sun deck and a poolside sala pavilion, so I can truly relax.
Indoors, in both rooms, there's a king-sized bed, bath and shower and other modern amenities.
Vietnam has changed a lot over the last 10 years, both politically and economically. The commitment the country has to preserve its natural beauty is why older travellers deserve to experience it too, not just student backpackers.
7 nights staying at 5* Banyan Tree Lang Co, with flights and private transfers, from London Heathrow for 2 people is from £1,649. Beach suites at Angsana Lăng Cô are from £194, and beach pool villas at Banyan Tree Lăng Cô are from £497, based on two people sharing, inclusive of breakfast, taxes and fees.