Uncovering the best of the Greek islands
Travel Correspondent Simon Calder shares some of the best bits of the popular islands of Santorini and Mykonos, while The Independent's Global Travel Editor Annabel Grossman reveals which spots will allow you to escape the tourist crowds for a more authentic experience, including Symi and Chalki.
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The Guardian
an hour ago
- The Guardian
Hot springs, empty beaches, forests and wine: exploring the unspoilt Greek island of Ikaria
There are no signs to the hot spring, but I locate it on the map and we drive to the end of the paved road. Overlooking the sea is a stone bench someone has dedicated to her parents, 'with gratitude and love as deep as the Aegean'. My dad died recently and the words strike home. I'm glad my mum has joined me on this little adventure. We walk down to the deserted cove at Agia Kyriaki thermal springs. There are old fishing shacks with stone-slab roofs, and shuttered cottages. Down an unmarked path, we find a rock pool where hot waters bubble gently from the sand, blending with the sea to a perfect temperature. Immersed in the healing mineral bath, I look up at juniper trees and blue sky, lulled by lapping waves and cicadas. Ikaria, in the eastern Aegean – named after Icarus, the Greek mythological figure who flew too close to the sun – is known for its forests, springs and wine, communist leanings and longevity. Its population of about 8,000 is spread across dozens of scattered villages over 255 sq km, with few dedicated to tourism, and it only really gets busy in July and August. We arrive in mid-June from Kos (ferries also connect Samos and Athens to the port of Evdilos) at the port of Agios Kirykos and drive north-east to Faros, which has a mile of beach without a single hotel. The house we've rented for our first few days, Lighthouse Lodge, is perfectly located next to a cafe-bar and two tavernas – the hot spring a few kilometres away. While Mum reads in the shade of a tamarisk tree on the beach in front of the house, I walk around the mastic- and thyme-covered cape to Drakano tower, with remains of fortifications from the fourth century BC. The lofty peak of Samos and the Fourni islands are the only features in an expanse of blue – the space and light are mesmerising. A few Greek families with young children linger on Faros beach until dark. At Grigoris taverna, we eat grilled sardines and soufiko, summer vegetables cooked slowly in olive oil, and drink Ikarian red wine. Then we fall asleep to the sound of the waves. The next day we explore the north of the cape, swimming in the clear turquoise waters of Iero bay, near the cave where legend has it that Dionysus was born. Getting to Monokampi, a pretty village 15km inland from Agios Kirykos, and our base for the following two nights, requires negotiating the forest-covered Atheras mountain, which stretches in a 40km ridge across the full length of the island, rising to more than 1,000 metres. Our route zigzags up a vertiginous slope, cypresses poking up from the tangle of trees. We're late and I call George, owner of Moraitika Farmhouse, to say we're on the mountain somewhere. 'Ten kilometres in Ikaria are not like 10km anywhere else!' he laughs. When we arrive, George shows us around what was his great-grandmother's farm, lovingly restored over 15 years. Three houses are now tourist accommodation, while the oldest one, from the 14th century, is like a museum to old Ikarian life, with a large fireplace for smoking meat, an inbuilt oven and a secret back door for escaping from pirate raids. A forest of arbutus (strawberry tree), oak, olive and ivy has grown over the once-cultivated terraces and the footpath his grandmother used to walk over the mountain. In the evening on the terrace, as the sun descends over the sea, we eat local cheese with an organic dry white wine, Begleri – all picked up en route, as we're a long drive from a taverna. Eleonora's falcons swoop, an owl hoots and there are tiny, bright lights of glow-worms. In the cool morning, birds sing their hearts out. We walk through Monokampi's village square, dominated by a huge plane tree, and follow a sign to Agia Sofia, a hidden chapel built into a rocky spur. Mum points out honeysuckle and walnut trees, and we pick mulberries and plums. The next day we descend to the coast and continue west, stopping at Karavostamo for a swim and fresh spinach pies from the bakery, then we drive on, looking for a place to stay for the next few nights. We stop above an impressive beach at Gialiskari, but there's the thump of music from a bar so we keep going. At Nas, we pull in at a taverna. After a lunch of courgette fritters, herby meatballs and homemade cheesecake with sea views, we think we might have found our place. We walk on until we spy a lush river canyon and a sparkling cove, and soon find rooms at Artemis Studio. Sign up to Inside Saturday The only way to get a look behind the scenes of the Saturday magazine. Sign up to get the inside story from our top writers as well as all the must-read articles and columns, delivered to your inbox every weekend. after newsletter promotion Steps lead down the rock to the bamboo-fringed estuary, where swallows and damselflies flit. The other bank is dominated by the walls of an ancient harbour and a ruined sanctuary for the worship of Artemis, protector of nature and wildlife. The waters flow from the deep, pine-covered Halari gorge, which extends several kilometres inland, with paths leading in various directions. The riverbed, with pink-flowering oleander and little waterfalls, fills with wild campers in mid-summer. For now, quiet reigns. We quickly fall in love with Nas. Mum swims in the freshwater lagoon with the frogs; I swim in the sea, which is cold enough to leave my skin tingling. When the sun sets into the ocean, we settle on Artemis's peaceful terrace for baked aubergine with kathoura cheese and red peppers, and goat roasted in olive oil and wine. The taverna is run by Thanasis, a musician who offers tours of his family's organic farm, and Anna, who has a ceramics studio and shop, where we take our time choosing pretty jewellery. After a breakfast of fresh juice, eggs and Ikarian smoked ham at nearby Reiki cafe, we head on to our next stop, in the village of Agios Polykarpos. We're staying at Monopati Eco Stay, which has studios of stone, wood and bamboo, with large windows framing a magnificent view of blue sky, canyon and forest. The owner says we will find his 87-year-old mother in the garden. Svelte and sprightly Popi, covered up against the sun, is thinning out her basil plants and beams at us. She shows us terraces filled with courgettes, sweet potatoes, aubergines and tomatoes. The next day she picks me apricots, shows me how to make basil pesto with walnuts and sunflower seeds, and tries teaching me to dance the ikariotiko, with a deep laugh when I mix up the steps. Her philosophy is: good food, good thoughts and outdoor exercise. Every morning, she looks at the magic of nature and feels gratitude. 'We only have one life – we must make the most of it.' Mum and I feel that exact sentiment as we wave goodbye. We've made the most of our two weeks of discovery in Ikaria. We leave not only revived by good food and rest, but energised and inspired by the sweeping landscapes and time together, with precious memories to last a lifetime. Lighthouse Lodge, Faros, from £105 a night (sleeps 4, minimum three nights); Moraitika Farmhouse, Monokampi, from £55 per house (sleeps 2-4); Artemis Studio, Nas, from £40 per studio (sleeps 2); Monopati Eco Stay, Agios Polykarpos, from £80 per studio (sleeps 4-6, minimum three nights)
The Guardian
3 hours ago
- The Guardian
‘The Thailand of Europe': foreigners live holiday dreams in Greece but locals priced out
From a booth facing the ferries moored at Piraeus, Tassos Papadopoulos cuts tickets for passengers heading to the isles of the Saronic Gulf. It's 5pm on a hot summer's day and through the sun-streaked haze he takes in the cars and trucks lining up to cross the steel ramp into the hold of the Aegina-bound vessel. Last year the queues were much longer. 'People aren't travelling it seems,' he says with a shrug. 'The weekend traffic is heavier but ticket sales are down by, I'd say, 50%.' Shimmering within view of the hills beneath the Acropolis, the Argo-Saronic isles are popular precisely because of their proximity to Athens. In 2024 Aegina attracted more than 2 million visitors, many budget-conscious Greeks drawn by the island's affordable ferry fares. 'This time, last August, all the loungers over there were taken by 10am,' says Konstantinos Tsantas, who runs a watersports business on shores framed by the jugged outline of the Peloponnese beyond. 'This year they're empty. I know watersports people all over the country and they all say the same: that business is down. And to think, Aegina is comparatively cheap.' 2025 will be remembered as the year Greeks decided to forfeit their annual pilgrimage to the beach. Immortalised by singers and songwriters, poets and cinematographers, the carefree joys of summer have, for many, fallen prey to the harsh reality of making ends meet. 'Our studies show that one in two Greeks will not go on holiday this year,' says Takis Kalofonos, chief financial adviser at EKKE, the union of working consumers of Greece. 'Whereas 10 years ago people would take 20 or even 30 days off, this summer it's less than a week. The Cyclades and islands further out are a distant dream for many Greeks. Who can pay €450 on boat tickets, which is what it would cost a family of four with a car, when the average salary is €1,342 a month?' The great August retreat – often centred on the religious festival of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary on 15 August – has for many been whittled down to days spent with family or friends in villages on the mainland. 'I'd love to spend time in Amorgos but getting to an island so far away is just out of bounds,' said Ismini Balale, who is 28 and struggling to survive on a retail sector salary of €850 a month. 'I can't cough up €200 a night for a room. All my friends are in the same position, and we all have postgraduate degrees. We're taking a few days off, here and there, this summer.' The European Statistics agency, Eurostat, recently endorsed EKKE's findings, announcing that 46% of Greeks – 19% higher than the rest of the EU – were unable to afford a one-week holiday last year. In Athens, August has given way to once unimaginable scenes: the public transport system is bursting; traffic in the city centre has barely thinned; seats at open-air cinemas are sold out and bars and fast food eateries are teeming with young Greeks who have been unable to get away. 'They talk about our country's economic recovery but none of those positive indices affect people like me,' says Balale. 'And I don't think this government much cares.' Sign up to This is Europe The most pressing stories and debates for Europeans – from identity to economics to the environment after newsletter promotion Paradoxically, it is partly because Greece is such a perfect place for holidays that Greeks are increasingly unable to afford them. The arrival of 36 million travellers last year – nearly four times the resident population – has ensured the Mediterranean country is one of the top 10 go-to places globally. The sector brought an estimated €21.7bn in revenue in 2024, helping Athens reduce its gargantuan public debt load from 180% of GDP, at the height of the nation's excoriating debt crisis, to 153.6%. But while tourism is the engine of the Greek economy, providing at least one in five jobs, success has also resulted in soaring prices. Wages, by contrast, have remained stagnant, outpaced by inflation rates that have far outstripped other EU countries, prompting a steep rise in the cost of living. Those who do manage to put money aside say increasingly they find it cheaper to holiday abroad than within Greece. An Alco poll in June revealed rocketing accommodation costs, ferry fares and restaurant prices as the main impediments to travel. 'Greeks are being priced out from enjoying what was a cultural and religious tradition, the August holiday,' says Prof Christos Pitelis, an expert on industrial economics and the tourism and hospitality sector at the University of Southampton. 'Dwindling disposable incomes make this an experience many simply cannot afford.' With the middle class hit hardest by austerity measures that were the price of the bankrupt Greek economy's rescue by international creditors a decade ago, the prime minister, Kyriakos Mitsotakis, has said relief measures are on the way. His centre-right government has pledged to bring down taxes and raise the average monthly wage to €1,500 by 2027. But it is not lost on Greeks that while foreign visitors can savour the natural beauty and other joys of their country, such pleasures for them have become a bittersweet memory. 'We are the Thailand of Europe; we provide services for others to enjoy,' says Aris Apikian, taking in the passing tourists outside the carpet shop where he works in central Athens. 'While foreigners live their dreams in Greece, we experience the sharp end of everything that is wrong with it. Who wants to go on holiday when they're told energy bills, you name it, are about to rise? I think the penny is beginning to drop, now that we cannot afford to take even a week off, that it's us Greeks, who are the real losers.'
Daily Mail
7 hours ago
- Daily Mail
Europe's most expensive beach clubs REVEALED - with minimum spends of €1,500
Beach clubs offer stunning coastal views as well as top-notch food, drinks and service, but they often come with a hefty price tag. The exclusive venues typically promise guests waterfront amenities, including sun loungers, shaded seating areas and luxurious spaces to relax in. However, the grandeur isn't given away for free. Visitors might even find themselves paying €350 (£302) for just one fish at certain venues. One of the most expensive beach clubs found by the Daily Mail was DK Oyster, located in Mykonos, where people claimed to have spent hundreds of euros on food. Describing itself as the 'freshest, all-day entertainment venue of Mykonos', the establishment is along the Platys Gialos beach and promises luxury and style. DK Oyster combines the 'ample elegance of a high-end venue' to a beach alongside parties and fun. Customers have reported paying top prices at the premium spot, including one on TripAdvisor who recently penned, 'For a whole fish, we paid 350 euros and for three dishes, 1000 euros [£864]'. Describing itself as the 'freshest, all-day entertainment venue of Mykonos', the establishment is along the Platys Gialos beach and promises luxury and style Another visitor in 2022 was charged '570 euros [£492.50] for two drinks, a salad and crab legs' due to the crab legs being priced per 100g. Entry to the venue is free, but customers are expected to spend €35 (£30) each. Meanwhile, in France, Nammos Cannes is another luxurious beach club with high-end prices. The lavish venue offers 'seaside dazzle' on Palm Beach - but it comes at a price. One customer on TripAdvisor shared a receipt showing how they were charged €15 (£13) for a bottle of sparkling water and another paid '€47 [£41] for a plate of five ravioli'. A menu uploaded last year showed also showed a mushroom paperdelle was priced at €50 (£43), while lobster risotto was €128 (£111). Elsewhere, Playa Padre in Marbella describes itself as 'a unique beach club' with 'exclusive rhythms and atmosphere' through performances and live DJs. Visitors pay for the exclusive experience, and the beach club charges €100 (£86) entry. Customers wanting a single sun bed are asked to pay €120 (£104) - €50 (£43) for the bed and €70 (£60.50) minimum spend. As seen in the online menu, a single piece of nigiri can be as much as €12 (£10), and a small fruit platter is €40 (£34.50). Another Greek venue, Scorpios Mykonos, attempts to 'create transformational experiences in shared rituals in arts, music, festivity and mindfulness' for its customers. The chic beachfront establishment comes with top prices too, as the restaurant menu has seabass carpaccio listed for €56 (£48), a side of broccolini for €28 (£24) and a fruit bowl costs €46 (£40). Another club, Nikki Beach, in Monte Carlo, promises 'breath-taking views of both the city and the Mediterranean Sea'. Customers can enjoy 'luxurious plush daybeds' as well as a 'chic lounge area', but will have to meet a minimum spend in some cases. One review on TripAdvisor reads, 'Lunch was good but the two sunbeds with the minimum spend was 1500 euros [£1,296]'. Another recalled paying '€200 [£173] for a bed by the pool and a minimum consumption of €195 [£168.50]'. Meanwhile, Verde Beach Club in St Tropez offers 'a dream setting, right on the sand'. The exceptional location comes with a hefty price tag, with a creamy burrata listed on the menu for €40 (£34.50), and pizza for up to €50 (£43). Jondal Beach Club in Ibiza is another glamorous, beach-front setting, with plenty of spots to relax in the sun and enjoy good food. Prices are high, however, and one customer on TripAdvisor shared how they paid '€300 [£259] for a simple turbot for two people'. Also in Ibiza, Blue Marlin promises food and entertainment 'day-to-night' and offers a range of events. One person online described a '€635 [£549] price tag for two people' at the venue, while a 'big bed' for four people comes to €600 (£518.50), including a €100 (£86) rent fee and a €500 (£432) minimum spend. There's also a €25 (£22) to €100 (£86) deposit required to reserve a table, depending on the number of guests. Café Mambo, Ibiza is dubbed the 'hottest ticket in town' and offers breath-taking sunset views. The popular location comes with high-end prices, with one reviewer on TripAdvisor describing how fried chicken cost them €30 (£26). Other reviews mention €80 (£69) to €100 (£86) minimum spends, and one recalled a €600 (£518.50) minimum for four guests. While another gushed, 'Absolutely worth the 150 euros [£129.65] minimum spend.'
