Ancient tradition puts Scottish cuisine in spotlight with sustainable and flavourful twist

Daily Record

09-07-2025

Once a survival skill, this traditional practice is back on found on menus across Scotland
A centuries-old practice is transforming Scotland into a surprising foodie hotspot. Chefs and foragers alike are turning to the shores in search of ingredients that are as sustainable as they are flavourful.
Coastal foraging, once a necessity for survival, has made a comeback, driven by modern interest in self-sufficiency, local sourcing, and unique dining experiences. Now, everything from sea spaghetti and red algae to sea buckthorn and sea urchins are appearing on menus across the country.
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First-time visitors might be expecting haggis and whisky, but instead are discovering delicacies like Loch Sligachan scallops, North Sea crab, and foraged seaweed from the Small Isles archipelago.
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James Aikman, chef-owner of Skua in Edinburgh, told the National Geographic: 'Most things wild-growing that are edible are generally packed with health benefits,'
Foraging, particularly along the coast, focuses on harvesting ingredients from estuaries, sand dunes, tidal pools and marshes. It offers not just sustenance, but a connection to the land, and sea, that is increasingly valued in today's culinary world.
Seaweed, in particular, has grown in popularity, helped by the influence of Japanese cuisine. Each variety brings its own distinct character: the umami truffle-like notes of pepper dulse, green bean hints from oarweed, or the toasted hazelnut flavour of red dulse, all with a briny freshness straight from the water.
Sea buckthorn, a bright orange berry from an invasive coastal shrub, is prolific along the Scottish coast and prized for its tangy flavour and vitamin content.
Foragers also gather coastal greens like scurvy grass, sea kale and sea sandwort, valued for their texture and nutritional benefits.
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At The Macallan Estate's new TimeSpirit fine dining experience, head chef Armand Lacan showcases Scottish seafood through a global lens.
'Having experienced culinary traditions globally, I can attest to the exceptional quality of Scottish seafood,' says Lacan, who pairs North Sea lobster with a bisque inspired by both Spanish and Asian cooking.
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Beyond flavour, there is growing awareness of the environmental benefits of foraged food. When responsibly harvested, these ingredients place less pressure on industrial agriculture and commercial fishing, offering a more sustainable path forward.
Aikman believes the recent revival of interest in coastal foraging is rooted in curiosity and a desire to reconnect with food sources.
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'There's something rewarding about searching for a wild ingredient, picking it, preserving it for later in the year or using it within our menu that week,' he says.
His restaurant works closely with local foragers like Coeur Sauvage to source items such as seaweed and sea kale, but the team also forages themselves.
'It's rare, as a chef, to feel that connected to what you're putting out for other people to eat,' Aikman adds.
Among his creations is a coastal-inspired raw scallop dish, layered with fermented and pickled seaweed, sea kale, a lightly cured scallop roe emulsion, a chilled broth made with dehydrated seaweed, and the often-discarded scallop skirt.