Forget The Maasai Mara, This Is The Best Safari Holiday In Kenya

Graziadaily

3 days ago

In 2025, this may be a controversial opinion but I'm not a fan of destination weddings. I won't dwell on this, lest I offend anyone, but what I will say is that, when two of my friends announced they were going to be married in Kenya – where they currently live – all of my principles flew out of the window. This is because, not only did I want to experience their (amazing) traditional Indian wedding and celebrate the joy of their marriage, I have also always been desperate to go on a safari. So, while the wedding was to be in Nairobi, I quickly started researching the best places to go on safari afterwards.
Most people will tell you to go to the Maasai Mara; it's obviously the most famous national reserve in Kenya, and the place where people tend to see the most wildlife. I'm not going to tell you that, though, because I went north to Samburu County, an arid landscape about which I knew absolutely nothing. The reason I chose to shun the Maasai Mara, despite the wealth of great options available if you do want to go there, is simple: Sasaab.
A luxury tented camp in the heart of the Samburu wilderness, this is like no other place I've ever been. Firstly, when I told locals at the wedding where I was going, they looked very impressed. 'Sasaab is the best place you could have chosen,' said my friend's uncle, who had been with his wife a year earlier. He said it far outshone anywhere else (and he would know), so it's fair to say my expectations were incredibly high. After boarding an internal flight from Nairobi, which is itself an experience – the plane is tiny and picks up people at various locations, a bit like a bus – we landed on an airstrip that was populated by zebras, our very first exciting wildlife sighting. We were immediately whisked off in a jeep to Sasaab, where the amazing staff were waiting to greet us in the most spectacular surroundings.
Immersed in the wild Samburu landscape, Sasaab boasts open-plan architecture which is distinctly North African in style, with stunning views over the Ewaso Nyiro River. It's owned by The Safari Collection, which was established by Kenyans Tanya and Mikey Carr-Hartley in 2009, who grew up in the African bush and share a mutual love of Kenyan wildlife and the spectacular landscape in which they reside. They now own four properties across the country, including the Giraffe Manor Hotel in Nairobi, which you've probably seen on Instagram.
Sasaab, though, is the jewel in this crown, thanks in part to its incredible location but also thanks to the wonderful service and strong sense of respect to the local community, present throughout the property. There's a commitment to nature and sustainability, too; the camp runs entirely on 100% solar power and has earned Global Ecosphere Retreat® (GER®) status as a result – one of the highest sustainability standards in the world, only achieved by 11 other properties worldwide.
There are 11 canvas-sided rooms in total, each with their own plunge pool, plus there's a large swimming pool for all guests to use. There's also a spa, offering luxurious treatments and even a small gym if you're so inclined. The camp has a strong relationship with the local Samburu communities, which includes everything from wildlife conservation to the provision of free medical centres offering healthcare. This is the sort of place where you'll need to pinch yourself every so often, just to ensure you're not dreaming.
As mentioned, the 11 'tents' (although this word feels laughable considering the reality) are perched high above the Ewaso Nyiro River, which offers a cooling breeze as well as phenomenal views. Our room, with its four poster bed complete with mosquito net, was huge, with a sitting area and a bathroom with quite possibly the best I'll ever see from a shower ever again. Not only were the sunsets cinematic, I would also spend lazy afternoons in our private plunge pool, watching families of elephants cooling down in the river.
The tents can be fully opened up if you want to enjoy the view from inside, although you are advised to close it properly each time you leave, lest you be plagued by mosquitos and various other forms of wildlife on your return. There's everything from monkeys to mice roaming around outside, so I took this advice very seriously indeed.
Upon arrival, we were asked what we like to drink, before being given an entire bottle of gin with which to make G&Ts in our room. You can also have sundowners in your room if you're not on a safari, which was a particularly lovely way to watch the sun set over a truly enchanting landscape. One of my favourite things were the 'star beds', situated on a higher terrace, where you can star gaze until your heart's content.
This was my first safari, and boy what a way to start. Our driver and Samburu guide was Dowdi, a charming and incredibly knowledgeable local who's been working with Sasaab for years. We had an early start, ready to track down the diverse and remarkable wildlife for which the Samburu is known. Almost immediately, Dowdi located a family of lions, including a new cub who was playing around his parents and older sibling. I was breathless with excitement, desperately trying to take as many photos and videos as my iCloud storage would allow – but this was just the beginning. Quickly, the sight of an elephant became almost commonplace, which tells you just how special this place is. We saw families bathing in the river, mothers and their babies seeking shade under trees and lone gigantic males passed so close to the car, I could have reached out and touched them. We saw the Samburu's reticulated giraffes, which are a species with a slightly different coat (they're incredibly beautiful) and, similarly, we were lucky to see Grevy's zebra, known for their striking narrow stripes and rounded ears.
After a few hours of these overwhelming sights, we had breakfast in the bush, which was yet another incredibly special experience. Game drives are available morning, evening and night, and you're always in your own vehicle with your personal guide. The sundowners we had were amazing, too, as Dowdi took us to Sundowner Rock in the Westgate Conservancy, which has a view so phenomenal you'll never forget it.
Other than game drives, Sasaab offers the opportunity to go fly camping, where you sleep under the stars (and a mosquito net!), and you can even book camel rides or helicopter tours. There's also the chance to go into one of the local villages to meet the Samburu people, which the Sasaab staff arrange with the village elders.
Every day, the incredible chef at Sasaab prepares a set menu with a distinctly Moroccan influence. Each course was more delicious than the last, with servings of chilled soups, mouthwatering lamb koftas and incredible cakes for pudding. The drinks flow, so expect generous helpings of wine (if you want it) throughout dinner, although you may need to take it slowly if you're getting up at the crack of dawn for an early morning game drive.
If you get hungry during the day (although this isn't likely, given how generous portions at mealtimes), the staff are only too willing to arrange a snack for you. This is not a place where you'll be left wanting – your every whim is catered to.
In short, this is the best service I've ever experienced. The staff are all a joy, smiling and ready to answer any questions you may have. We loved everyone we encountered; they really are an incredible team. One thing to note is that you're not expected to tip as you go in the usual way – instead, you can give a tip at the end, which is shared equally between everyone, including your guide. You'll want to ensure you have some money handy to do this; never has a tip been more earned.
Rates at Sasaab start from approximately £930 per adult per night sharing on a full board basis. This is by no means a cheap safari holiday, but you really do get what you pay for. If you're looking to book an unforgettable, bucket list luxury holiday, you won't get much better than this. Sasaab offers once-in-a-lifetime experiences that you'll truly cherish forever.