White House hospitality is a form of diplomacy that has evolved over time

USA Today

23-05-2025

White House hospitality is a form of diplomacy that has evolved over time | Opinion America's first state dinner was held 150 years ago and the tradition continues to grow to this day.
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Kenya State dinner
Jill Biden hosted a preview before Thursday's White House State Dinner for President William Ruto and First Lady Rachel Ruto of the Republic of Kenya.
Whenever the White House hosts guests for dinner, it also serves up American history.
From multicourse banquets in the 19th century to today's carefully curated menus highlighting American flavors and sustainability, White House formal dining is about more than just food — it has been a symbol of national identity and international diplomacy.
Since President Ulysses S. Grant held the first official White House State Dinner 150 years ago, presidential hospitality has reflected the evolving tastes, traditions and diplomacy of the United States. The meals served, the wines poured, and even the china and crystal used have told a story of changing culinary trends and cultural influences.
White House state dinners have become an American staple
State dinners into the early 20th century followed a predictable structure—soup, fish, meat, and dessert courses, all paired with European wines. White House china services also became a hallmark of American presidencies, with unique sets that reflected their tastes and their era's artistic trends. And not just the tableware, but the tables themselves have evolved; first lady Jacqueline Kennedy began the practice of using rounds, which has become the accepted setup of most state dinners, enabling the hosts to break away from the strict rules of protocol found in a formal seating arrangement.
The vast collection of presidential china now serves as both functional tableware and historical artifact. Dinnerware from George Washington's service is prominently displayed today in the White House China Room on the ground floor of the Executive Mansion, as is the State Service china, glassware, and silverware picked and used by the presidents. First Lady Edith Bolling Galt Wilson was the first to display the china in this room in 1917.
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My personal favorite is the china service commissioned by President Rutherford B. Hayes that arrived at the White House in 1880. Designed by Harper's Weekly magazine artist Theodore R. Davis, the Hayes china is remarkable for its nature-inspired motifs, featuring vividly painted American flora and fauna rather than the traditional presidential seals or national emblems. Plates adorned with bison, wild turkeys and fish reflected the growing appreciation for America's natural beauty during the post-Civil War era.
Later, china services introduced distinct stylistic elements. The red-rimmed service chosen by first lady Nancy Reagan, as designed by Lenox china of Trenton, New Jersey, added a bold, stately look to the White House dining table, with service for 220. The Clintons' gold-rimmed Lenox china, created for the bicentennial of the White House in 2000, featured images of the Executive Mansion's architectural details. Both services are prominently featured on the Official 2025 White House Christmas Ornament, commemorating 150 years of White House state dinners — a tribute to the elegance and tradition of presidential hospitality.
FDR introduced a more relaxed style of state dinners
The White House collection today includes 16 state china services, allowing the White House chefs and social staff to draw from a wide array of designs for different occasions and first family preferences.
The food service, as well as the dishes on which it is served, has evolved, too. As the 20th century progressed, White House cuisine gradually shifted toward a distinctly American fare. For example, Presidents Theodore Roosevelt and Woodrow Wilson introduced regional ingredients into their menus, serving dishes like Virginia ham, Maryland terrapin soup, and fresh seafood from the Chesapeake Bay.
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During Franklin D. Roosevelt's presidency, state dinners embraced a more relaxed yet refined approach, with menus reflecting the first family's personal tastes and the economic realities of the decade-long Great Depression. First lady Eleanor Roosevelt worked closely with White House housekeeper and cook Henrietta Nesbitt to simplify meals, emphasizing hearty American dishes over elaborate European fare. Turkey, cornbread dressing and cranberry sauce led the menu not just for Thanksgiving but for a state dinner held by President Dwight D. Eisenhower in September 1959.
A return to French-inspired dining came with first lady Jacqueline Kennedy, who hired French chef René Verdon as the first White House executive chef. The Kennedys' state dinners featured sophisticated dishes such as quenelles of sole, soufflés and elaborate pastries.
We can expect White House dinners to continue evolving
The early 21st century, however, saw a growing emphasis on American culinary diversity, sustainability and regional flavors. First lady Laura Bush introduced Southwestern and Texan flavors into White House menus, while first lady Michelle Obama championed locally sourced ingredients and healthy eating. The White House Kitchen Garden, established during the Obama presidency, provided fresh – and as local as you could imagine - produce for state dinners, reinforcing a commitment to farm-to-table dining.
During the first Trump presidency, White House hospitality embraced a blend of traditional and contemporary influences featuring classic American dishes alongside French-inspired elements, such as Dover sole and beef tenderloin. A state dinner in President Trump's first term was held in the White House Rose Garden, an outdoor evening event honoring Australian Prime Minister Scott Morrison. The setting, under twinkling lights with music played from the West Wing roof, was a striking example of the grandeur and creativity that White House hospitality can offer.
The Bidens celebrated American ingredients and culinary heritage. Chesapeake Bay crab, Midwestern beef, and California wines took center stage, while a careful blend of historical and modern china sets was used to create a sense of continuity and reverence that complemented past presidencies.
Wine service at the White House, too, has changed – just as it has across the country. In the early days, presidents favored European wines, particularly French Bordeaux and Champagne. As American viticulture gained international recognition, White House wine selections increasingly highlighted domestic producers.
President Lyndon B. Johnson was the first to exclusively serve American wines at state dinners, a tradition that continued in the decades that followed. The Reagans further elevated California wines from their home state, showcasing labels such as Robert Mondavi and Beaulieu Vineyard. The Bidens continued to feature American wines from California, Oregon, and Virginia, reflecting and enhancing the growing prestige of American wineries.
As President Trump begins a second term, the tradition of White House state dinners will undoubtedly continue to evolve. Whatever the china and glassware, the menu and the wine, White House hospitality will remain a powerful symbol of diplomacy, tradition and national pride. Whether through a plate adorned with American wildlife, a goblet of domestic wine raised in a toast, or a dish inspired by regional flavors, White House hospitality continues to tell the story of the nation, one meal at a time.
Stewart D. McLaurin is president of the White House Historical Association, a private nonprofit, nonpartisan organization founded by first lady Jacqueline Kennedy in 1961, and is director of The People's House: A White House Experience multimedia educational center and museum.