'What a sight to behold': All-night festival in Co Cork pays tribute to Seán Ó Riada

Irish Examiner

3 days ago

As dawn breaks on an overcast day in July 2011, Ruth Ní Riada is standing in a field in Cúil Aodha. Mist is rising from the river and through the stillness a French horn sounds the emotive opening notes of her grandfather's Mise Éire, an outdoor orchestra swelling to a stirring crescendo on a stage by the banks of the Sullane.
'When Mise Éire was being played it was very cloudy but as soon as they started playing, a small hole appeared in the clouds and the sun shone down on the stage,' recalls Ruth. 'It was just surreal. You'd look back on it and think, did that actually happen or did I imagine it?'
Equally ethereal were the sounds of soprano Judith Mok's voice drifting over the Cork Gaeltacht village at 4am, and Mícheál Ó Muircheartaigh's commentary as a band of sporting heroes charged, banners unfurled, down the glen and across the riverbank at that first all-night Aeríocht 14 years ago.
'Seán Óg Ó hAilpín, Anthony Lynch, and Briege Corkery coming down the mountain at 6 o'clock in the morning – what a sight to behold,' says Ruth.
This week, when she stands in 'Páirc na Laoch' or the 'heroes' field' in Cúil Aodha at the third Féile na Laoch, Ruth will be heading the organising committee, taking over the role from her father, composer and broadcaster Peadar Ó Riada.
Held once every seven years, the festival was founded by Peadar in memory of his own father, composer Seán Ó Riada 'and other heroes', with Martin Hayes, Glen Hansard, Phil Coulter, and Christy Moore, Cara O'Sullivan, Michael D Higgins, Charlie Bird, and Nuala Ní Dhomhnaill among the heroes having performed on stage in Cúil Aodha.
'It's a festival to celebrate our cultural heroes,' says Ruth. 'We have seven heroes from each of the different disciplines - poetry, visual arts, storytelling, dance, singing, acting, music, and sport.'
Ruth never got to meet her grandfather Seán, leader of groundbreaking traditional group Ceoltóirí Chualann, broadcaster, founder of Cór Cúil Aodha, and composer of Ceol an Aifrinn, commonly known as the Ó Riada Mass, including the music for 'Ag Críost an Síol'. He passed away aged 40 in 1971, and Féile na Laoch, which is celebrated in two parts, marks what would be his 94th birthday on August 1, as well as the date of his death on October 3.
Though as a family member she is reticent about lauding Ó Riada's achievements, she acknowledges: 'For us, it's hard to say because we're biased, but he's very much a cultural hero in this country, and only for him you just wouldn't know what way things would be, both musically and in our own identity and heritage. He represents what it is to be Irish.
Ruth is named after her grandmother, who died just six years after Ó Riada, having developed cancer. 'All his grandchildren feel like we met him because we've heard so much about him, both publicly and in the family,' she says. 'It's an incredibly proud thing to say that he's our grandfather and the only regret is that we never got to meet him or Ruth.
'His music has changed the face of Irish music. He completely revived Irish traditional music and that was just one small aspect of what he did in his career. He was known internationally, and for what he did in communities – here in Cúil Aodha. The choir is the prime example – the choir is made up of every kind of a person in every kind of a job and they come together in the community for the community.
'To think of what he achieved, and died at the age of 40, is just incredible.'
Peadar Ó Riada and his daughter Ruth with members of members of the organising committee of Féile na Laoch in Áras Éamonn Mac Suibhne, Cúil Aodha. Picture: Dan Linehan
Seán Ó Riada's premature death saw his teenage son Peadar thrust suddenly into public roles including director of Cór Cúil Aodha. Now 70, Peadar passes over the running of the festival honouring his father to the next generation in more ordered fashion. He retains the role of creative director while the chairperson's job is in the capable hands of Ruth, an army captain who is based at Cork's Collins Barracks and has served in Syria and Lebanon.
'I'm very aware that you're only as good as how you manage to leave things after you, and my father left very suddenly, so I started running since I was 16,' says Peadar. 'I'm on duty since and I wouldn't wish anyone the start that I had. When I took over [the choir] I had to learn how to play on the job.
'I don't want that to happen with Féile na Laoch so I asked Ruth would she take on this year's one - she's good at organising things.' His father's presence is 'always there', he says, and has shaped Féile na Laoch.
'Seán Ó Riada caused people to dream. The whole idea of Féile na Laoch is dream-time to look at heroes, what we admire about people, and to renew ourselves in many different ways – that's why it covers so many aspects, not just the creative but the sporting and the spiritual – and also a chance to reset our own batteries.
'By recognising heroes we are rediscovering who we think is wonderful and what is wonderful about them, so that we can aim for that ourselves.' The heroes on stage at Thursday's all-night Aeraíocht include singers Celine Byrne and Liam Ó Maonlaí, Altan's Mairéad Ní Mhaonaigh, jazz musician John Donegan, dancers Natasha Bourke, Tobi Omoteso, and Siobhán Ní Dhuinnín, storytellers Cónal Creedon and Pat Speight, and poet Dairena Ní Chinnéide.
Glen Hansard and Michael D Higgins at the previous Féile na Laoch in 2018. Picture: Paul Reardon
As heroes, 'these people are at the top of their game in their own respective disciplines, but it's more than that,' adds Ruth. 'It's what they represent in their own communities as well – they're not just heroes as musicians or singers or poets. A lot of the people that we've given the honour to are people who have given a lot back to the community as well.'
Community involvement is central to the féile, at which both heroes and helpers volunteer, free of charge. 'The main event is the Aeraíocht, an overnight multifaceted concert out in the air, from sunset to sunrise. It's all community-led and voluntary,' says Ruth.
'Every event is free of charge but that means that it's all reliant on our funders and sponsors and on the meitheal of volunteers that come together. We are looking for volunteers and everyone is more than welcome to be part of it, anything from a flag-bearer in the parade to a steward, to helping out with the food.'
Volunteer musicians are also being recruited for a 'People's Orchestra' to play Mise Éire as the Féile na Laoch stage is rotated to face the rising sun on Friday morning, Seán Ó Riada's birthday, the stage having been moved by degrees from its starting position facing Thursday's sunset.
'It's not an elitist thing – it's the people's orchestra,' says Peadar, offering transport from Cork city and 'a bloody good breakfast' for orchestral recruits. 'The music is so recognised, it's nearly like the nation's trumpet call. Every time, at any State occasion, they play Mise Éire - it's time to let people know they have access to it.'
Féile na Laoch takes place overnight on Thursday, July 31, at 7pm. Tickets are free but booking is advised at: eventbrite.ie
For full details, see feilenalaoch.com
Féile na Laoch highlights
President Michael D. Higgins sits on stage as musicians play for a previous Féile na Laoch. Picture: John Delea
Aeraíocht: Thursday, July 31, 7pm: Fire taken from the hearth at the Ó Riada home, with parade to Cúil Aodha for opening of Féile na Laoch, and to Páirc na Laoch 8.30pm for Aeraíocht. Friday, August 1, 5.50am: Mise Éire played at sunrise; sounding of horns to summon sporting heroes; 6.20am: a horse is brought to the fore to honour the role of the horse in Irish culture.
Concert celebrating Seán Ó Riada: Friday, August 1, 8pm: Branches of Comhaltas Ceoltóirí Éireann perform in concert presented by Peadar Ó Riada live on Raidió na Gaeltachta and online.
Harp and Pipes Forum: Saturday, August 2, 10am: Seminar with Louise Mulcahy, Laoise Kelly, Paul Dooley, and Ailean Dòmhnallach to discuss influences on the evolution of the Irish instruments.
The Way of the Arts: Saturday 11am: Opening of trail with works of art, including by Maria Simonds-Gooding and John Behan, displayed in the windows of seven houses in Cúil Aodha.
Coirm Órga/Gold Concert: Saturday 8pm: Past winners of the Oireachtas Corn Uí Riada and Seán Ó Riada Gold Medal, presented by Máirtín Tom Sheáinín Mac Donncha, live on RnG and online.
Spiritual Day: Sunday, August 3, 11am: Mass with Cór Cúil Aodha; Assembly of choirs from Ireland and Scotland and contemplative exploration of the future of Church and spiritual community in the face of dwindling vocations to the priesthood.