‘Made for sex': the hedonistic party palaces of New York's Fire Island – and the blond bombshell who made them
Over the last century, Fire Island Pines, as the central square-mile section of this sandy spit is known, has evolved into something of a queer Xanadu. Now counting about 600 homes, it is a place of mythic weekend-long parties and carnal pleasure, a byword for bacchanalia and fleshy hedonism – but also simply a secluded haven where people can be themselves.
He stole his first commission from another architect by seducing the clients – with whom he briefly formed a throuple
'My most vivid memory of my first visit here in the late 90s is being able to hold my boyfriend's hand in public without fear,' says Christopher Rawlins, architect and co-founder of Pines Modern, a non-profit dedicated to celebrating the modern architecture of the island. The palpable sense of community and liberation here is, he says, 'what happens when people who are accustomed to a certain degree of fear no longer feel it.'
That was even more the case for Horace Gifford, an architect who arrived here in 1960, aged 28 and bored with working in a dull office in Manhattan and determined to make his mark in the sand. Over the next two decades, the young Floridian would build 63 holiday homes here, channelling his native beach culture into a seductive vision of breezy, timber-framed modernism that would define the look of the Pines – and beach homes – for the rest of the century.
Long before the term sustainability was invented, Gifford's houses were models of compact, light-touch living with the land. While others were building sprawling mansions in the Hamptons, Gifford encouraged his clients to reduce their footprints, strip away extraneous details, and submit to what Rawlins describes as 'an artful form of camping'. Clad with planks of raw cedar inside and out, interspersing solid volumes with walls of glass, and crowned with angled roofs to 'reach out and grab for light', his homes felt at one with the island – and celebrated its sexually liberated way of life with voyeuristic relish.
Few had heard of Gifford until Rawlins began digging in the archives for his seminal book, Fire Island Modernist, first published in 2013 and long out of print, but now expanded and updated with new photography and additional homes. Gifford had been criminally overlooked, in part thanks to his own criminal record, which had put him off ever applying for his architect's licence, in a state where licensed professionals had to be 'of good moral character'. Like many others of the period, Gifford was arrested during a police raid on Fire Island in 1965, in a dune cruising zone known as the Meat Rack. Such raids happened throughout the 60s, with police threatening felony sodomy charges for anyone who challenged their misdemeanour arrests. Names were published in newspapers and careers ground to a halt. 'They would entrap and beat the crap out of the guys,' recalls one of Gifford's clients in the book, 'then drag them down the boardwalks and corral them at the harbour-front like dead fish!'
Gifford's arrest might have put paid to his professional licensure, but that didn't hinder his success on Fire Island. He was a statuesque, charismatic blond, who had been voted 'best looking boy' at school, and few could resist his charms. He turned heads as he strode down the beach from meeting to meeting, 'wearing a Speedo and carrying an attache case', as one amused client recalls. He once hosted an elegant black-tie party – where that was the only item of dress people wore.
'He understood his power over people,' says Rawlins. And he started how he meant to go on. He stole his first Fire Island commission from another architect by seducing the clients, with whom he briefly formed a throuple. 'He affected a quiet vulnerability,' recalls one college friend, who majored in psychology, and found Gifford a fascinating study. 'But he was anything but. He was ferociously narcissistic.'
It worked a charm with the press. A 1964 issue of The American Home magazine declared Gifford to be 'undoubtedly the top beach-house designer in the country'. Another newspaper headline in 1968 cooed 'He Sends Cutting Edges into the Sky', while the New York Times singled out his work in a travelling exhibition of beach house architecture the same year. They highlighted his treehouse-like design for textile designer Murray Fishman, raised on a series of chunky wooden columns, which doubled up as hidden cupboards. As Gifford joked to Fishman: 'You will now have 20 closets to come out of.'
Sometimes the references were more risque. In a chapter titled Form Follows Foreplay, Rawlins describes how Gifford designed a fur-lined 'make-out loft' for Stuart Roeder, a Warner Brothers' PR man known for his wild parties. With its lusty loft suspended above a couch-rimmed conversation pit, the house provided a lurid backdrop for the 1970 pornographic film, The Fire Island Kids. A year later, the island provided the setting for Boys in the Sand, the first gay porn film to go mainstream, which cemented the Pines' reputation as a place of 'bronzed skin, stripped-bare facades of cedar and glass, flaxen hair, and shimmering pools,' as Rawlins writes.
It was the perfect calling card for Gifford's more raunchy work, which included homes with multi-man outdoor showers, bathrooms with big picture windows facing the boardwalks and 'telescoping' interiors, choreographed like stage sets for the enjoyment (and enticement) of passersby. Gifford would even sometimes commission 'peephole' style photographs of the interiors, as if to hint at the imminent indiscretions.
As Fire Island's reputation grew, so did the fame of its residents. In 1977, after divorcing his first wife, Calvin Klein bought one of Gifford's beachfront homes. He then hired the architect to convert it into a souped-up party pad, adding a black-lined pool, a 'pool boy's quarters', a gym and a garden. 'It was amazing,' Klein recalled in 2013, 'the ultimate hedonist house. I mean, it was made for sex.' Following a series of unsympathetic additions, Rawlins is now busy restoring the house to its original splendour, as he has for a number of other homes in the Pines.
By the 1970s, Gifford's designs had evolved from their humble beach shack origins. As the island's foliage matured, the ground enriched by leaching septic tanks, he developed 'upside down' floor plans that raised sunny living areas above shaded bedrooms. Budgets also grew. The owners of Broadway Maintenance, a lighting company, commissioned Lipkins House, a home that pulsated along the beachfront with disco energy. Inside, a sunken living area led down to a windowless den lined with electric blue shag carpet and a mirrored ceiling, with lights that throbbed in time to the music. Its current owners are delighted with its ingenious details, like a hidden bar, cylindrical showers and clever sun-loungers that can be lifted out of the poolside wall, all still intact.
'We bought it just as Hurricane Sandy hit,' they tell me. 'Both our neighbours lost their pools and their decks, but miraculously we were OK.' They look out at the beach, across a freshly planted protective sand berm, studded with clumps of new grass like a hair transplant. It was recently rebuilt, at a cost of $52m, after the previous $207m beach fortification – completed in 2019 and designed to withstand a 44-year storm event – was washed away in just four years. 'We shouldn't even be allowed to have houses here,' the owner tells me, with a guilty look. 'It's a nature reserve. But the homes are 'grand fathered' in. When the hurricane hit, I thought, 'My God, what have we done?''
Fire Island Pines has already been decimated once. Just as it reached its free-spirited, out-of-the-closet peak of liberation, Gifford's generation was wiped out by Aids, the architect himself included, at the age of 59. The island became a ghostly place of mourning in the 1980s and 90s. But it is booming once again. House prices have rocketed, fuelled by the Covid pandemic and the arrival of high-speed internet, with the island's fame boosted by a 2022 romcom bearing its name. Sexual freedom has also been turbo-charged once again by the advent of PrEP, an HIV-preventive drug.
Homes are getting bigger too, as new owners join lots together and bulldoze the quaint shacks of old, with an eye for lucrative short-term rentals. Watching the waves crash against the shore, as contractors drive piles for ever bigger, bloated beach houses, raised up on stilts against the floods, Gifford's light-touch legacy looks just as fragile as ever.

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Business Insider
01-08-2025
- Business Insider
I traveled long-distance on Amtrak for the first time. These 10 things surprised me.
In all my travels between cities — which have led me to explore almost all of Florida — I had never set foot on a long-distance train. While I am familiar with local light-rail systems like Miami's Metrorail or the New York City subway, I have most often opted for long-distance, intra-city buses when moving around Florida. The state is loosely connected by a network of rail systems, including the local Brightline high-speed rail and the commuter trains TriRail in South Florida and SunRail in the Orlando area. On my latest trip from Miami to Tampa, I opted to try Amtrak, which services both areas through its Floridian line, which travels from Chicago to Miami. On the way to Tampa, I rode in the coach economy class, and on the way back, I had a first-class roomette. These 10 things surprised me as a first-time Amtrak passenger. I was surprised that traveling by train was not cheaper or faster than driving. At first, I expected my train journey to offer a clear benefit compared to other methods of transportation, like cost or time. However, the train ride — which made nine stops between Tampa and Miami — took longer than it would take me to drive or, obviously, fly between the same two points. In fact, my almost-six-hour train ride was an hour and a 1/2 longer than an average drive starting at the same time of day. While the train reached a top speed of about 80 miles per hour, which would be a bit faster than driving on the highway, it also faced a fair amount of train traffic, and our average speed was closer to 45 miles per hour, which is slower than the speed limits on Florida highways, which usually have a minimum speed of 50 miles per hour. Of course, I reaped some benefits by traveling by train rather than driving the route. I didn't have to deal with road traffic, and I had the chance to sleep, eat, and relax on the journey. I was also surprised that the ticket cost wasn't much cheaper than driving or flying. An ultra-economy flight on a carrier like Spirit Airlines from Tampa to Miami can cost between $35 and $150, depending on when you book. Driving the trip would cost an average of $34.16, as calculated using The Zebra's fuel cost calculator and AAA's state average fuel prices. I paid $60 for a single coach ticket (and $230 for the first-class ticket), so both driving and flying could've been faster and cheaper. Riding by train felt like traveling back in time. Despite the extra time and cost, there were benefits to taking the train — it was a fun and enriching experience that felt like traveling back in time, with routes going through rural areas that were once hubs of industries like manufacturing. The stations themselves — many of which were built during a time when train travel was a much more common form of transportation — felt like glimpses into a different era. In Tampa, for example, I boarded the train at Tampa Union Station, which is on the National Register of Historic Places, having been built in 1912. I experienced more waiting around on my trip than I expected. Expecting a somewhat elevated travel experience compared to long-distance buses, which can often be delayed by road traffic, I was surprised by the amount of waiting around that I experienced on my particular journeys. On one leg of the trip, for example, I stood in line for food in the café car for almost an hour, and on the other, my train was delayed by five hours due to extreme heat — a factor that is increasingly impacting rail travel, The New York Times reported in 2024. Boarding was quick, with no security checkpoints. Once your train arrives, you can just hop in and find your seat, similar to long-distance buses. While I appreciated the uncomplicated boarding process, a thought or two about safety did cross my mind when comparing it to airplane boarding. That said, as someone used to traveling via long-distance, intra-city buses, I wasn't too concerned. In documentation about its safety measures, Amtrak said "the security framework that works in the airport setting is not easily transferable to the rail station system," and its trains instead rely on the Amtrak police department, a dedicated police force working inside train stations and aboard the trains, to ensure passenger security. I experienced what felt like never-ending airplane turbulence while on my journey. Even compared to driving or riding on a long-distance bus on the highway, the train ride felt very bumpy, mirroring the most turbulent of flights. For one of the legs of the trip, I booked a first-class roomette, and was glad to have a space to lie down to ward off any motion sickness. I wasn't limited to my seat. Roaming the cars was one of my favorite parts of traveling by train. Although walking between cars was difficult — the bumpy ride meant I had to hold on tightly to available handles while going from one car to another — I enjoyed the freedom to walk back and forth between eating and sitting areas, giving me the chance to stretch my legs on the long ride. Unlike traveling by bus or airplane, it felt very communal. With the café and dining cars open and waits often affecting all passengers, traveling by train was much more communal than the heads-down, headphones-on experience of airplanes and long-distance buses. The compact space aboard the trains makes it nearly impossible to avoid striking up a conversation with someone next to you, or at the very least, enjoy a fair share of eavesdropping. I was surprised by how much the first-class dining car felt like a fine-dining restaurant. With the $230 roomette ticket, I received a complimentary dinner in the first-class dining car. I was surprised the experience resembled a fine-dining restaurant, from the amenities to the attention from the staff. With each table having its own white tablecloth and rose bouquet, I almost forgot that I was moving at nearly 80 miles per hour during my meal. However, the food options in coach and first class weren't all that different. Unfortunately, the train I'd booked a first-class ticket for was five hours delayed. By the time I boarded at Tampa, which was at the latter end of the train's Chicago-to-Miami route, its complimentary first-class food options had run out. While I was expecting a three-course dinner with options like steak or roasted salmon, we were instead offered a turkey sub, a ham sandwich, or a cheeseburger, offerings I recognized from my previous travel in coach. However, I know my experience probably wasn't typical, and I received an apology email from Amtrak. I still enjoyed the food that was served, even if it wasn't the three-course steak dinner I had expected. Overall, traveling by train felt more like an experience of its own than just a way to travel. Even with all its delays, inefficiency, and dwindling food options, traveling by train gave me a more full and enriching experience than I was expecting. From looking out the window at new, rural locations to experiencing school-cafeteria-style communal eating, my train journeys felt more like experiences of their own rather than simply a way of getting from point A to point B.


National Geographic
29-07-2025
- National Geographic
Planning the next family trip? Look to Galveston
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Stretched along the coast of the Gulf of Mexico in Texas, Galveston is where maritime history, ornate Victorian mansions and a decidedly Floridian beach-town vibe seamlessly blend. A popular choice among late-1800s holidaying elites and investors looking for new prospects, this barrier island became the richest city in the state, packing Southern charm and wild decadence into its gilded mansion-lined streets. Today, it's evolved into a year-round destination with things to do for all ages. It's the variety on offer that's especially appealing, from immersive museums and world-class animal education centres to attractions focusing on much more than just planet Earth. Plus, the relaxed Gulf-inspired dining scene is well-suited to kids, the city is manageable in size, and gentle Gulf breezes and occasional afternoon rains ensure temperatures stay comfortable. Here's why under-the-radar Galveston should be your next family getaway. Moody Gardens Pyramids are impossible to miss on the approach to Galveston. Photograph by Moody Gardens 1. Learn about animals at the Moody Gardens Pyramids The three pyramids rising high from the coastline, their glass exteriors glistening in the sun, are impossible not to notice upon your approach to Galveston — and yet even more eye-catching exhibits await inside. The pyramids are at the heart of Moody Gardens, a wildlife, education and nature centre with a focus on rescue and rehabilitation and programmes to save endangered species from extinction. The Aquarium and Rainforest Pyramids offer a chance to learn about animals and their habitats, and feature exhibits to help kids (and adults) connect the dots between marine biology, animal conservation and human activity. In the Rainforest Pyramid, animals such as sloths and saki monkeys roam free, and tropical birds flit through the canopy; the Aquarium Pyramid's Coral Reef Lab is dedicated to researching and helping to protect Florida's coral reefs, which are facing a severe bleaching crisis. The third — Discovery Pyramid — features travelling exhibitions and immersive motion-simulator experiences. Friendly sloths are just some of the animals roaming free in the Moody Gardens Rainforest Pyramid. Photograph by Visit Galveston 2. Tour the historic harbour Galveston's maritime heritage takes centre stage at the Texas Seaport Museum and the tall ship Elissa. Visitors can climb aboard the fully restored 1877 vessel and imagine life at sea during the Age of Sail, plying gruelling trade routes around the world. On shore, the Ship to Shore exhibit uses immersive technology — think motion platforms and multimedia storytelling — to bring to life Galveston's seafaring history, from immigration to storm survival. Afterwards, take time to wander the adjacent harbour, where working fishing boats and occasional cruise ships pass by. There are also options to join harbour or dolphin-watching tours, or visit a retired jack-up oil rig to understand the science and impact of oil production. 3. Become an astronaut for a day Just a 45-minute drive from Galveston, Space Center Houston is a must for any kids (or parents) interested in the universe. The official visitor centre for NASA's Johnson Space Center — part museum, part training ground — is where astronauts prepare for their missions. Kids can touch Moon rocks, try out virtual reality spacewalk and space travel simulators, see a Saturn V rocket (used for the Apollo missions) and explore one of two original aircraft used to transport the iconic Space Shuttles. Daily tram tours take visitors to mission control and astronaut training facilities (VIP options grant even more behind-the-scenes access), while interactive exhibits make the science of space travel more accessible. There are also STEM-focused play areas and challenges to test young minds. And with special events, seasonal programming and visiting astronaut talks happening regularly, there's always something new to learn. Plan a whole day to make the most of your time here. Space Center Houston is where NASA astronauts train for future missions and visitors can get a closer look at what the process entails. Photograph by Space Center Houston, Aaron Rodriguez 4. Tour Galveston's historic mansions Galveston's past isn't just preserved — it's celebrated. For history-loving families, a visit to The Bryan Museum is a fascinating dive into Texas and American West heritage. Housed in a former orphanage, the museum's collection spans centuries and includes exhibits on cowboys, Native American culture and early settlers, all presented with striking visuals and thoughtful storytelling. Kids can marvel at historic weaponry, try on period clothing or follow a scavenger hunt through the galleries. Beyond the museum, Galveston's East End Historic District is dotted with grand Victorian homes, many open for tours. Bishop's Palace and Moody Mansion are standouts offering not only an architectural wow-factor but also a glimpse into Galveston's gilded past. Walking tours of the district make for a gentle afternoon of exploring streets lined with trees and historic plaques. Finally, make time to stroll The Strand, once nicknamed the 'Wall Street of the Southwest' on account of it being a hub for bankers, brokers and cotton merchants. The Bryan Museum offers engaging and interactive exhibits on culture and heritage of Texas and the American West. Photograph by Visit Galveston 5. Indulge in Gulf food Gulf cuisine is rich in seafood, while Tex-Mex influences and casual dining make eating out with kids a breeze. Before exploring The Strand and the harbour area, start the day with breakfast at Star Drug Store. First opened in 1886 as Texas's first drug store, it's now a much-loved breakfast and lunch spot, serving hearty portions of fluffy pancakes and other classic breakfast plates, plus shakes and malts. For lunch near The Strand, kids and adults alike will love the Italian-influenced Riondo's Ristorante, offering crowd-favourite pastas and pizzas. If you're introducing the little ones to seafood, head to BLVD Seafood, which serves Gulf redfish, shrimp and soft-shell crab, all grilled or blackened, in a taco, wrap or bowl. Trendy Sugar & Rye is good for dinner, with a New Orleans-inspired menu of jambalaya, Cajun seafood pasta and gumbo (parents and adventurous young diners should try the Texas brisket onion soup). And if you get a chance for a parents-only evening, book at Rudy & Paco for impeccable service, a carefully curated wine list and an extensive menu of South- and Central American-influenced steak and seafood. The grilled Gulf red snapper in Creole sauce is a standout. A 15-minute drive from downtown Galveston, Moody Gardens Hotel, Spa and Convention Center is a great choice for families. The resort features indoor and outdoor swimming pools, access to the Moody Gardens Pyramids, ropes course and zip-lines. The hotel's Palm Beach water park doubles the fun with a lazy river, wave pool and water slides. All 433 guest rooms are spacious and well-appointed. Family packages with two-day passes to Moody Gardens Pyramids from $486 (£357) per night for two adults and two children. This story was created with the support of Travel Texas and Visit Galveston. To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).

Business Insider
22-07-2025
- Business Insider
I paid $230 for a first-class roomette on Amtrak. After my journey was delayed 5 hours, I appreciated the extra space.
Unfortunately, my first-class journey began with a five-hour delay. The morning of my trip from Tampa to Miami, I began receiving text notifications that my train would be delayed. The Floridian train travels from Chicago through states including Ohio, Pennsylvania, Virginia, and the Carolinas before reaching Florida. Its 47-hour journey ends in Miami. On the day I traveled, an hourlong delay during its early stops soon escalated to a five-hour delay as the train faced challenges related to extreme heat warnings in northeastern states. By the time I headed to the train station, I was already hours behind my original schedule. After a long day of waiting, I arrived at the historic train station from which my train would depart. The Tampa Union Station was built over a hundred years ago, making the wait — which continued to get longer incrementally — more enriching. The station, which was built in the Italian Renaissance Revival style, had a few details that nodded to its long history, including a plaque and a few informative posters. Once my train finally arrived, I got to board early. Once the train arrived at the Tampa station, I joined other first-class passengers in early boarding. A dedicated attendant guided me down the slim walkways to my room. One of the main perks of the first-class roomette is access to a dedicated first-class attendant, who welcomed me aboard the train and showed me to my room, as well as informing me about the procedures for dinner in the dining car, which would start about an hour after boarding. Meant for two people, the roomette provided ample space to sit during my five-hour journey. My $230 ticket covered the cost of the roomette, which could be occupied by two people. So when split among two passengers, it would cost $115 each. The 23-square-foot room provided two spaces to sit and sleep: one upstairs and one downstairs. After spending a while in the train station — where masses waiting for delayed trains were growing impatient in the Florida heat — I was very happy to sit down in an air-conditioned private room by myself. The room had its own private bathroom, which seemed like it could be awkward to use. The roomette featured its own private bathroom — the "stairs" to the upper level could be opened into a toilet and a sink. However, actually using the bathroom was awkward as they weren't separated from the rest of the roomette. As a solo passenger, I wasn't too uncomfortable, but I could see how it could be awkward to use with two passengers occupying the space. The upper level featured a comfortable bed. Climbing the convertible stairs, the upstairs berth, which can be adjusted in height, came with two pillows, two blankets, and comfortable bedsheets. The bed was also comfortable to lie in, despite its rather limited space, which was similar to a twin-sized bed with cut-outs on the side for access. The upper bed had its own storage space and viewing window. The bed was next to a window and a luggage storage space. The upper window was my spot for sightseeing during the first half of the trip before the sun went down. After a long day of waiting, I could just lie down and enjoy the views of rural Florida from the comfortable bed. The upper bed could be raised to the ceiling when not in use and also allowed a passenger to sit underneath while another slept. The roomette's compact space was arranged efficiently so that the upstairs and downstairs spaces could be used simultaneously. While a passenger uses the upstairs bed, another can sleep or sit downstairs. I imagine this division of space makes long trips much more comfortable for two people sharing the small space. The dining car felt like a fine-dining experience ... With a design that reminded me of the art deco and mid-century modern styles, the first-class dining car felt like an elevated restaurant compared to the dining cars I usually see on trains. The tables were covered with white tablecloths, and each was decorated with a small bouquet of two roses. … even if the food didn't. As soon as I sat down to order in the first-class dining car, a waiter told each table that due to a complication with the train kitchen, the dining car was operating on a limited menu, which included options like cheeseburgers, turkey subs, and ham sandwiches. The options were the same I had seen in the economy class café menu on the first leg of my trip, which disappointed me as I was eager to try a first-class dinner on the Floridian. While the burger I had was tasty, enjoyable, and packed with all the essential toppings — tomatoes, lettuce, onions, pickles, and some condiments — it wasn't quite the luxury dining experience I had anticipated. Our first-class dinner came with dessert. After the dinner service, a waiter handed each diner a warm brownie topped with whipped cream and chocolate syrup. Although it was a sweet and enjoyable ending to a long day, it slightly reminded me of warmed-up day-old box brownies. After a long day, the bed in the roomette was a godsend. While the upper bed was more comfortable, I opted to sleep downstairs after a wave of motion sickness hit me after dinner. After a long nap that lasted most of the trip, I felt better, and I was thankful that I could lie down in my own private space — where I could make it as dark and cozy as I wanted — while experiencing motion sickness, rather than sitting in a coach seat. Finally, I arrived at my destination six hours after the scheduled time. After a filling meal, some enjoyable views of rural Florida, and a long and refreshing nap in the roomette, I arrived in Miami at nearly midnight. The trip, which came after a tiring day of delays, was ultimately enjoyable and gave me the time, space, and comfort to stretch and rest while traveling. I found that having a full bed to rest in without being disturbed was worth the price tag, at least under the particular circumstances of my travel. While I enjoyed having all the space to myself, splitting the fare between two people would be a better value option aboard the first-class roomette.