The posh olive oil revolution

Times

27-05-2025

Perched above the verdant, undulating landscape of southern Tuscany is Mount Amiata. This 5,702ft-tall lava dome was formed over millennia by the slow extrusion of thick lava through the Earth's crust. It's now dormant, and the only reminder of the ancient volcano's origins are the thermal waters that feed local hot springs such as Bagni San Filippo, Bagno Vignoni and San Casciano dei Bagni. On their way to take in panoramic views from the mountain's summit, hikers and cyclists alike pass through groves of beech, chestnut and olive trees, fed by the areas nutrient-rich volcanic soil.
This is the homeland of Manni Oil, founded in 2000 by Armando Manni and considered 'pure liquid gold' by none other than the wellness guru Gwyneth Paltrow. The organic, extra virgin olive oil is available in a Grand Cru version (from £61 for a set of two bottles) beloved by chefs including Gordon Ramsay, Thomas Keller, Heston Blumenthal, Daniel Boulud and Hélène Darroze, who hold more than 30 Michelin stars between them. Yes, like wine, olive oil can have different qualities, or crus, though the term is only officially applied to wine. In the case of olive oil, it usually signifies high-quality, limited-edition and often single-origin oil. 'Manni oils have become an integral ingredient in our kitchen,' says Keller, the chef-patron of two ultra-exclusive restaurants on each of the US coasts — the French Laundry in California and Per Se in New York. Meanwhile, Manni's second-tier oil, The Oil of Life (from £46), has won multiple taste and quality awards.
'Our oil has an incredibly high concentration of antioxidant polyphenols, giving it a fragrant and intense flavour profile and an even longer shelf life,' Armando Manni explains. The luxurious oil is produced using the world's first olive mill that ensures zero waste and a circular economy production method that keeps materials and products in use for as long as possible. As part of this, Manni Oil has just introduced a new product that makes use of the olive waste from oil pressing to create an antioxidant-packed flour that can be added to both human and pet food. To ensure both the high quality and the scientific basis for the claims made about the health benefits of its products, Manni's products are regularly tested by the University of Florence.
Scientific studies have shown that the polyphenols — antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compounds — contained in olive oils have a range of benefits including helping to prevent coronary heart disease and atherosclerosis. However, these compounds naturally degrade as newly pressed oil ages due to exposure to environmental factors such as light and temperature. 'If not properly handled, an extra virgin oil can lose all its antioxidants and turn into a simple virgin olive oil in just a few months,' Manni explains. Thanks to Manni Oil's production methods — it's the only mill in the world with a patented circular economy production platform that uses advanced techniques to generate high-quality oil and upcycle waste into a new ingredient, ManniOlivePowder — the company's oils 'are guaranteed to stay the same delicious, healthful, perfect extra virgin olive oil when you uncork the bottle as they were when they were just pressed — and to stay that way for at least two years'.
Increased health benefits are just one aspect that can make an olive oil more expensive. Another is taste. In another similarity with wine, there are also olive oil sommeliers. One such is Mazen Assaf, otherwise known as the Olive Oil Guy, who has parlayed his obsession with all things olive into a burgeoning brand. In addition to judging international olive oil competitions and lecturing on the golden liquid at Le Cordon Bleu, Assaf produces a select range of oils for sale through retailers such as Harrods in London.
It all started on a childhood trip to Portugal with his father. Although Assaf grew up in Lebanon, a country renowned for its own olive oils, the Portuguese sojourn allowed him to appreciate regional nuances in taste. 'At that moment I discovered that olive oil is a craft, with many varieties, each having its own unique flavour profile. This discovery turned into an obsession,' Assaf told us. 'Ever since that moment in Portugal I've been on a mission to explore the intricate world of olive oil and elevate its role in the culinary world — celebrating it as a craft.'
To do that, Assaf unpacks the notes of flavour that can be found in oils, as well as suitable pairings for them. In fact, there are more than a thousand varieties of olive in the world, with about 139 of these accounting for 85 per cent of the oil produced — each with its own flavour profile. 'The truth is that good olive oil comes in a wide diversity of flavours,' Assaf explains, 'and each palate will have a different preference.' His current Sommelier's Selection spotlights, among others, the Spanish Picual variety of olive (with its tomatoey notes, it pairs well with stews), the pungent Coratina from Puglia (which lends itself to rocket salads) and the rosemary-like Lebanese Souriani olive (excellent with hummus).
The Olive Oil Guy's offerings are sourced from family-owned micro-farms that have produced olive oil for generations. 'This allows many families across Greece, Italy and Spain to continue their longstanding craft and honour their legacy,' Assaf says. 'Our sourcing methods are fair trade and open source, which makes a massive impact on an industry that is rife with fraud and unethical practices.'
Luxury olive oil is more than just something in which to sauté your vegetables or drizzle over your salad — it's also an experience for the senses. Since 2007, Speiron's λ /lambda/ olive oil has been produced with an eye on ultra-premium quality. 'To ensure its exquisite sensory qualities remain untouched, each and every one is bottled entirely by hand,' the founder, Giorgos Kolliopoulos, told us (minimum order €100). This oil comes from the fruit of some of the oldest olive trees on the Peloponnese, both the Koroneiki and Maroneia varieties. 'The region, inhabited since prehistoric times, has a rich tradition of producing excellent-quality olive oil. It's also where my family originates, adding a deep, personal bond.' Again, comparisons to wine abound, with Kolliopoulos noting, 'I'd seek the highest-quality oil solely for the experience of uncorking the bottle and letting the intricate, complex aromas fill the room. That sensation alone would be enough for me.'
With a growing number of exceptional, high-quality luxury olive oils on the market, those wanting to experience the full gamut of tastes and aromas have more options to choose from than ever before.
El Mil de Poaig
This organic extra virgin olive oil is produced from millennia-old Farga olive trees in the heart of the Maestrat region, near Valencia in Spain. The age of the trees means a lower annual yield and therefore more exclusive harvest. No glass bottle here — the oil is sold in a handcrafted white porcelain container. £228, elpoaig.com
Terra Creta Grand Cru Koroneiki
With low acidity and a mild, fruity flavour, this award-winning extra virgin olive oil is produced sustainably in Crete, paying attention to both the rhythms of nature and the local way of life. £28, terracreta.gr
Aceites Oleomile Oldfargus 2000
Available in only 400 bottles per year, this oil has aromas of green walnuts, green apple skin and fresh grass and, like El Mil de Poaig, is produced from the rare Farga variety. €230, oleomile.com