Farmers and their traditional harvests keep Goa's culinary heritage alive
Panaji:
From the fields of Agasaim, Xavier Gracias tends to his patchwork of seasonal crops. Among them, one leafy jewel stands tallest—the red amaranthus, or tambdi bhaji, as it is fondly known in Goan homes. The burgundy pigmented plant is known for its nutritional wealth—rich in iron, calcium, and essential vitamins. Xavier smiles as he shares its secret, 'It thrives in our soil, matures in just under two months, and is always in demand,' he says.
A mosaic of farmers—young and old, traditional and new—are sowing seeds of sustainability, heritage, and hope in Goa, with each furrow in the soil holding more than just a crop. In Taleigao, Madhavi Gawas, once a humble kitchen gardener, blossomed into a full-fledged farmer. Her garden is a vibrant chorus of brinjals, radishes, tomatoes, and okra. But her pride lies in the unique 'saathsheero bhendo'—the seven-ridged okra. Long and sculpted with seven distinct ridges, the okra, unlike any other lady finger in the world, remains succulent even after growing past a foot in length. 'The demand speaks for itself,' Gawas says. 'They fetch a good price, and I never have to market them aggressively. I merely pluck them in the morning, and by noon, they are all sold out.'
In Saligao, Anjali Gad-Kerkar, a senior citizen and a woman farmer, nurtures the gavti mirsang—local Goan chillies known for their pungency and aroma that grow well in Pernem, Mapusa, and Canacona. Though age keeps her from physically visiting the marketplace every day, the chillies, alsando (cowpeas), pumpkins, and brinjals from her farm find their way to homes across Goa through govt horticulture outlets. 'Each chilli carries the essence of the land where it grew,' she says with pride.
In Bicholim, Umesh Raut takes pride in his organic mission. His fields are fed by jeevamrut, a concoction made from cow dung, cow urine, jaggery, pulse flour, and soil. 'My crops were once under siege by pests, but applying jeevamrut allows me to grow chemical-free crops that are resilient and rich,' he said.
At Cumbharjua, farmer Prasad Naik tends a lesser-known treasure—gavti kandem, Goa's indigenous onions. Though the sight of these onions is increasingly declining in markets, they flourish quietly at Naik's farm, destined for simmering pots and aromatic gravies that define Goan kitchens.
These stories, scattered across talukas, reflect the deep-rooted respect for the Goan land, according to the Agriculture Technology Management Agency. 'These farmers have a lot of potential and traditional knowledge. We are giving them demonstrations and training in various agricultural aspects, and the results that are yielded are evident,' said Prasad Parab, project director, ATMA-North Goa.
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