What's so special about Greenland? I went there to find out
It takes around 30 hours to fly from Australia to Greenland but the timing of my arrival couldn't be better.
It's June 21, not only the longest day of the year but also Greenland's national day. So after touching down at the newly minted international airport in the capital, Nuuk – an eye-catching arrangement of crayon-coloured buildings anchored to bedrock beside the Labrador Sea – I head straight out to join the celebrations. There's nothing like crisp Arctic air and brilliant sunshine to banish jet lag.
I've arrived too late for the annual seal hunt and kayaking show but I'm just in time for the carnival at Nuuk Stadium. On a tiny stage beside the astroturf oval, performers alternate between Greenlandic and pop songs as children pile onto inflatable playhouses or swing from straps tied high up a light tower. Like a maypole but way more perilous.
National Day celebrations at Nuuk Stadium. Picture: Kendall Hill
In the city centre there's a band jamming on the balcony at Daddy's bar above a busy square where pop-up stalls sell hot dogs, fairy-floss and craft beer to revellers.
That evening I head out with US colleagues – just arrived on the new direct flight from Newark, New Jersey – to Foodlovers Streetfood, Nuuk's sole food truck, which serves local lamb, scallops and fish (and whale) with chips. Then we swing by a local hall to see veteran rockers Inua play to a crowd so packed we can't even squeeze in. Around 10pm there are fireworks but it's broad daylight so they appear as smoky explosions in a bright blue sky.
The national day celebrations are modest – Nuuk's population only hit 20,000 in January, around a third of the island total – but they feel uniquely Greenlandic. And I assume that this year they'd be more significant given Trump's renewed threats to simply annex the world's largest island. But Greenlandic sovereignty is far more complex than that.
Ice floes float past the colourful buildings and homes in Nuuk.
'We have just been a plaything or toy for the last 300 years,' explains Qupanuk Olsen, arguably Greenland's most famous person thanks to her viral social media channels. 'We are used to just being seen as an object that you can just decide over, as if we have nothing to say for ourselves.'
Olsen launched Q's Greenland, her viral education and travel series, five years ago after travelling to more than 30 countries and realising 'people know nothing about Greenland'.
When Trump declared last December that he needed 'full control' over Greenland for national security, Olsen says Greenlandic people thought it was a joke. He'd made similar threats in 2019 that came to nothing. 'He's so not serious,' she says.
But then Trump Jr visited Greenland in January, followed by vice president Vance. 'That's when we started to realise his words are not just words, they're becoming a reality.'
For Greenlanders, national day was complicated long before Trump stumbled onto the scene. Colonised by Denmark in the 18th century, they've officially been Danish citizens since 1953 – though Greenland's parliament is largely autonomous today. While polls earlier this year showed 84 per cent of islanders want independence from Denmark, very few are interested in becoming US citizens.
Olsen, elected to the 31-member parliament in March as a member of the pro-independence Naleraq party, used to be 'a huge royalist' – she even served in the Danish navy – and an enthusiastic participant in national day celebrations. But no more.
'How can you call it your national day when we're still under Denmark?' she says. 'There's not even any difference between Danish people and Greenlandic people. I cannot call myself an Inuk, an Inuit, on paper.'
Greenland still relies on Denmark to fund around 20 per cent of its annual budget, but the island's current tourism boom, coupled with its lucrative fishing industry and deposits of rare-earth minerals, are fuelling hopes for its eventual independence. The timing is the tricky part.
Olsen, the territory's only mining engineer (she earned her masters in Kalgoorlie, of all places), estimates it could be 20 years before Greenland's resources potential begins to be realised. 'Greenland is like a huge mine deposit just waiting for the right price. So right now it's not our way out.'
X
SUBSCRIBER ONLY
It will be a delicate balancing act between exploiting the island's mineral resources – mostly buried beneath an ice cap almost 3000km long – and the deep-seated Inuit respect for nature.
'What we value in life is going hunting and fishing, being one with the nature,' Olsen says. 'We'd rather be out in the wild and be one with the nature than anything else.'
When I ask about her hopes for the future of her homeland, her answer is simple but also complicated. 'I really want my children to grow up in an independent country where they know that that their voice is just as worthy as any human being on Earth.'
The writer travelled to Greenland as a guest of HX Expeditions.
Originally published as What's so special about Greenland? I arrived at the perfect time to find out
Hashtags
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
West Australian
2 hours ago
- West Australian
Greenland is planning tourism on its own terms
It must create value, pride and new local opportunities. It should benefit the whole country. And, to bring this to reality, Greenland has developed a comprehensive 10-year strategy. It looks beyond the global traditional focus visitor numbers and to prioritises 'value-creating tourism'. The 10-year strategy spearheaded by Visit Greenland sets a framework for strategic priorities and initiatives between now and 2035. And it is timely. A new international airport opened in the capital, Nuuk, in November 2024. It's a pivotal moment, as this completely shifts access to Greenland. It lines it up as a reachable Arctic destination. The first United Airlines direct flight from New York to Nuuk arrived in June, 2025. And Visit Greenland's partnership with Icelandair has brought a significant increase in visitors. But Greenland is committed to manage tourism growth on its own terms. Visit Greenland is the country's national tourist board and its chair, Anette Gronkjaer Lings, is the founder of Greenland Dog Adventure. The company, which is now run by her daughter, Julia, is 'committed to the conservation, protection, and study of the Greenland sled dog and its cultural heritage.' It has more than 40 Greenland sled dogs and its preservation program. The company's mission statement adds: 'Our integrated approach includes close collaboration with local communities, governments, and international partners to ensure the survival of this iconic species and the traditions it supports.' Annette started the company after seeing the decline of the country's sled dog population, as modernisation of tools and hunting methods and the impact of climate change reduced the need for ice-based transportation. Melting ice has meant more use of boats for fishing and hunting. Her own business is an embodiment of the 10-year strategy: 'The strategy focuses on strengthening tourism development with consideration and respect for nature, culture and people. It clarifies how the organisation will work towards making tourism a responsible and long-term driver of societal development, focusing on creating value, pride and new opportunities locally. 'Visit Greenland's job is to bring stakeholders together, promote collaboration and develop solutions that create real and lasting value — locally and nationally.' It's quality over quantity, ensuring tourism contributes meaningfully to Greenlandic society rather than simply generating revenue. Anette adds: 'Greenland is experiencing increasing international attention, new airports and a growing interest from travellers abroad, which creates great opportunities for our country but also significant responsibilities. 'With this strategy, Visit Greenland takes clear responsibility for seizing opportunities wisely and contributing to tourism development for the benefit of both the population and our guests.' THREE LANDMARKS Visit Greenland's strategy has three key objectives — benchmarks for tourism development towards 2035. + Tourism must be co-created. The strategy says: :'We want people to feel ownership and co-responsibility, and we want tourism to be something we develop with — not around — the people who live in the country.' + Focus on value creation. 'It's not just the number of visitors, but also the quality of their stay, engagement and contribution to society that takes centre stage. Tourism should benefit the whole country, both geographically and year-round, and boost local businesses, jobs and experiences.' + Tourism must be developed in balance with the country's most valuable resources: nature, culture and community. 'Tourism must not erode what makes Kalaallit Nunaat special. It must be responsible — both in practice and in principle — and developed with respect for all that we share.' fact file Visit Greenland: Greenland Dog Adventure:
West Australian
8 hours ago
- West Australian
Anette lives her philosophy
Anette Gronkjaer Lings lives Greenland's philosophy for its future in tourism. For she is also chief executive of Hotel Sisimiut, in Sisimiut, on the west coast of Greenland — a hotel community that is deeply rooted in Greenland's culture and history. With a population of about 5500 people, Sisimiut is the biggest business centre north of the national capital of Nuuk and one of the fastest growing cities in Greenland. Its reputation as a good, central base for travellers to experience the country's culture and adventures has grown in recent years. Hotel Sisimiut is a three-star hotel with 40 rooms, and a gourmet restaurant and a bar. A spokesperson for the team there says: 'The hotel was founded with a vision to provide travellers with an authentic experience where modern hospitality meets Greenland's spectacular and untamed nature. 'From the very beginning, Hotel Sisimiut has taken pride in offering comfortable facilities and exciting experiences that bring guests closer to the Arctic landscape.' Rooms are comfortable and it has a wilderness bath and sauna, from which guests can see the Northern Lights or glow of the midnight sun. But the spokesperson explains: 'Hotel Sisimiut is more than just a hotel — it is an integral part of the Sisimiut community, combining accommodation, dining, tours and a shop to offer authentic Greenlandic experiences. As a locally owned business, we are dedicated to promoting sustainable tourism while preserving Greenland's culture and natural resources. 'Beyond food, we invest in local artisans, ensuring they have a stable income year-round, even outside the tourist season. 'By purchasing handmade crafts through structured agreements, we help sustain Greenland's cultural heritage while offering visitors high-quality, locally made souvenirs.' The hotel supports cultural and sports initiatives, including vocational training for students and cultural events. And the spokesperson adds: 'At the heart of our vision is Anette Gronkjaer Lings, who grew up in Sisimiut and has a deep passion for developing the town and its surrounding wilderness. 'Together with her partner Bo, she has built Backcountry Greenland, a universe of experiences that includes Hotel Sisimiut, wilderness lodges, fly-fishing camps, Backcountry Tours and Greenland Dog Adventure, an initiative dedicated to preserving the Greenlandic sled dog. 'The next generation is also deeply involved, with her daughter Julia leading the training and development of our many sled dogs, ensuring that this cherished tradition continues to thrive.' The team at Hotel Sisimiut can also put together packages for guests. These depend on season — sled dogs, snow mobiles in winter. Northern Lights in their peak season. ATV, Backcountry and culture. In the warmer months, from June to October, that could be an ATV (all terrain vehicle, or quad bike) trip to Nerumaaq fjord, to an Arctic Circle viewpoint, or into the mountains. Northern Lights excursions by ATV are from June to October. In the cold months, from December to April, there will be dog sledding and snow mobiles. From January to April there are Backcountry trips by snow mobiles. From June to October there is a boat cruise to the abandoned settlement of Assaqutaq, and also an Inuit hike. There is general winter mountain hiking from December to April. As a guide to prices, a 1½ hour Northern Lights adventure is from $238 (DKK 955). A 4-hour dog sled tour is from $503 (DKK 2100) and the Inuit hike is from $71 (DKK 300).
Sydney Morning Herald
13 hours ago
- Sydney Morning Herald
One of the world's most isolated places is the ultimate cruise destination
It isn't just wildlife numbers that have an impact on visitors to South Georgia. You get closer to animals here than almost anywhere else in the world. Close enough to admire the sheen on penguins' feathers, to be alarmed by the fierce beaks of giant petrels, and to look into seals' watery black eyes. South Georgia beats the Arctic and Svalbard, where you're lucky to see only a few walrus or polar bears at a distance. It's even harder to get to, however. The British Overseas Territory is 1300 kilometres from the nearest permanent habitation in the Falkland Islands, and 2000 kilometres east of the South American mainland. South Georgia has no airport. Unless you join the British Antarctic Survey, the only way to get here is on an expedition cruise in summer. I'm here with Aurora Expeditions, a top choice for this remote and rugged destination. The inverted bow of Greg Mortimer provides increased stability in rough waters, and abundant decks a grandstand onto icebergs and drifting seabirds if you can stand the cold. Two well-placed hot tubs are terrific if you can't. Wind and waves set the agenda in this volatile environment, so you need an experienced company and expedition team that knows the best places to sail and land. I'm lucky to have Aurora's founder Greg Mortimer himself on board. The legendary adventurer – the first Australian (with Tim Macartney-Snape) to climb Mount Everest and various other big peaks, including Antarctica's highest – has led more than 80 expeditions to Antarctica. Every excursion brings something different. Hercules Bay has macaroni penguins with jaunty yellow head feathers, and a laziness of elephant seals as big as boulders. Fortuna Bay is encrusted with glaciers and bands of buckled rock, and jammed with fur seals and their newly born pups. The sun is bright on a silvery sea as we sail into Stromness Bay, illuminating alpine peaks. The ship's Observation Lounge, with coffee in hand, is my box onto the grand opera of scenery. By the time we anchor, clouds are low and the wind furious. What looked beautiful now seems desolate and grey, but going ashore is just as wonderful. By far the biggest pleasure of expedition cruising is the chance to tap into expert knowledge, and I soon find myself fascinated by lichen, cloud patterns and the penguin life cycle. Twice-daily talks by the expedition team add informative and entertaining detail to South Georgia's natural history. One afternoon, we land at St Andrew's Bay. Dozens of elephant seals are slumped on the beach. Fur seals are everywhere. The king penguin rookery is the biggest in South Georgia, with perhaps well over half a million animals. When I see Linda, I have to admit that my amazement at the wildlife all those days ago was indeed premature. The numbers are difficult to fathom. The island is home to most of the world's Antarctic fur seals and half its elephant seals, plus some 60 million seabirds. Returning to the ship seems surreal. The mudroom, where we strip off Aurora-supplied boots and polar jackets, is its portal between wilderness and the ship's comfort. A quick treatment for chilled bones in the sauna and pre-dinner cocktails are followed by pappardelle alla norma and an Argentine malbec. On our final morning in South Georgia, we're out in Zodiacs at Right Whale Bay. Peaks stab the background and waterfalls gush into a churning sea. The beaches are strewn with so many fur seals that we can't find spare sand on which to land. Bull seals agitated by the mating season grunt and huff. The water around the Zodiac plops with penguins, yellow beaks and throats flashing as they surface for air. They're as soon underwater again, sleek as synchronised swimmers. Once more, South Georgia provides a constant state of wildlife overstimulation. By late morning the wind has whipped up to 70 knots, forcing us to abandon our final excursion. South Georgian weather is capricious. 'You'll have some blue-sky days and bad days and some filthy days but get up and out anyway, because you'll always see things that are unique,' Mortimer advised us at the start of our journey. Loading Indeed. Now the snow is falling, or rather stabbing horizontally across the slush-slippery deck. But no matter. I huddle by the railing, peering through frozen eyelashes at my last glimpse of South Georgia, which disappears into the fog like a magical kingdom, leaving only albatross wandering in a milky sky. The details Cruise Aurora Expeditions visits South Georgia on several different itineraries that also take in the Antarctic Peninsula and Falkland Islands. For example, a 23-day Antarctica Complete journey, which next departs on December 20, 2025 and December 17, 2026, costs from $US29,756 a person ($46,640) including all shore excursions and Zodiac expedition. See
