Green Almond Pantry chef opens cozy Turkish restaurant in Georgetown
Spendy, splashy restaurants are opening around D.C., but there's a homier new spot that industry folks and foodies are buzzing about: My Little Chamomile.
Why it matters: The cozy Turkish restaurant tucked away in lower Georgetown is chef Cagla Onal's first full-service spinoff of her long-running market and cafe, Green Almond Pantry.
Dig in: Onal cooked at Obelisk and Etto before launching her own farmers market business — and D.C. food writers like me have been following her since, craving unfussy, lovingly prepared fresh breads, frittatas, and seasonal vegetables or lamb dishes swimming in good olive oil and herbs.
Her Shaw marketplace opened in 2018 and later suffered a fire, after which Green Almond relocated to Georgetown. For years she dreamed of opening a restaurant, and launched My Little Chamomile — a nickname for her blonde-haired daughter — with the help of a Kickstarter campaign.
The vibe: Mom's house — cozy, lots of warm woods, potted flowers and collected ceramics. The dining room and walk-in bar span over 50 seats, and diners are greeted with a small menu designed to change often with seasons and specials.
"I think, if I go to my mom's house, what will she cook for us? I'm not trying to be fancy," says Onal.
On the table: Onal's menu is divided by specials, grilled items, sweets and "from mom's kitchen" — "labor-intensive dishes," says Onal. "If you visit, she's cooking for you." Think braised lamb over smoky eggplant, stuffed grape leaves, or manti dumplings cloaked in yogurt and butter sauce.
Diners can graze between seasonal salads and spreads, scooped with homemade lavash bread. The grill turns out two sharing platters: a whole branzino with spicy arugula and charred lemon, or a New York Strip steak with seared tomatoes.
Onal plans to grow the menu with spring. Ditto for the beverage list, where you'll find wine "from friends" like a lovely Turkish red or white from a family producer.
The bottom line: Over a year ago, Onal wasn't sure if she'd even be cooking. A back injury and surgery left her bedridden for months, and she temporarily closed Green Almond. She says her restaurant industry friends and regulars helped build her and the restaurant up.
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