Visiting this charming Norfolk seaside town feels like stepping into another century

Telegraph

a day ago

I stepped off the train and into, it seemed, a former century. Sheringham is the terminus of the mainline from Norwich but, on the other side of Station Road, on another set of tracks, the steam locomotives of the Poppy Line clank and exhale, waiting to take trippers further along the coast.
It was the arrival of the railway in 1887 that transformed this small fishing town. The poet and theatre critic Clement Scott wrote of the rail-accessible joys of North Norfolk for The Telegraph (coining the term 'Poppyland'), and holidaymakers began to flock in, creating such demand that fishing families would rent out their homes (sound familiar?).
Now, the heritage railway is one of Sheringham's biggest draws.
But it wasn't the only thing generating vintage vibes. Red, white and blue bunting flapped in the North Sea breeze, strung along a bygone-era high street: greengrocers, butchers, bakers, a model railway emporium, and an ironmongers dating back to 1897.
Every September, Sheringham holds a 1940s Weekend, with themed window displays, classic cars and period music.
But it was looking pretty throwback even on a regular Tuesday. 'It is a bit like going back in time,' one local told me. 'Whether you think that's good or bad – well, that's a personal preference.'
What's it really like?
As seaside resorts go, Sheringham is pretty low-key. There are a couple of arcades, ice creameries a-plenty, a toyshop that's sold buckets-n-spades since 1912. Sheringham Museum is filled with lifeboats and local history and a gallery of 200 shell sculptures, if things made from shells are your thing.
Best is the big Blue Flag beach, backed by some of the county's highest cliffs; Norfolk's zenith, 103m (!) Beacon Hill, is nearby.
The beach itself is lovely, when it's there – at high tide the sand is swallowed completely
For all its nostalgic charm, Sheringham is actually pleasingly real, having managed to remain itself in the face of surrounding forces. It doesn't have the social issues that plague Great Yarmouth, 40 miles south.
But nor is it as expensively gentrified as spots like Burnham Market (aka 'Chelsea-on-Sea'), 20 miles west – though local house prices reflect its proximity.
Sheringham's identity has been tested. Long holding out as a bastion of independents, the town finally caved to Tesco in 2013, after a 17-year planning battle. However, the supermarket hasn't affected trade as much as feared: it's close to the centre, with parking – it may have actually brought more people in.
More recently, a surge of young entrepreneurs has shaken things up. One of them is Ben Stubbs, who grew up in Sheringham and runs Stubby's, a 'chef-led' pizzeria where toppings include vodka sausage and black pudding.
' The Gangway bar opened around the same time as us,' Ben told me. 'Before, there were just pubs and fish and chips. Suddenly there was pizza and cocktails!' Gentrification, Sheringham style.
What's not to like?
Honestly, not a lot. The town's elderly-leaning demographic means you're unlikely to find much to do beyond 8.30pm, but that's probably not why you're here. And there's no headline-grabbing destination hotel or Michelin-starry restaurant – yet.
Sheringham isn't perfect. But unlike the boarded-up shops and dwindling investment experienced in many coastal communities, it seems positively vibrant. District Councillor Liz Withington believes it may just offer the blueprint for other such towns looking to revive their fortunes. Liz moved here in 1994 but has lived all over, including Marbella – and sees similarities.
'It's the same with many seaside towns – rammed in summer, back to community in winter,' Liz said. 'We've got it right because we've maintained that sense of community.'
There are concerns about preserving Sheringham's retail diversity as takeaway outlets increase. The current beef is with a pizza chain that's trying to move in. The council has objected, the chain has appealed.
'High streets are supposed to be about 30 per cent hot-food takeaways; Sheringham is over 40 per cent already,' Ben explained. 'If the appeal is overturned, where does it end? It could be the first Domino to fall, pardon the pun… Small towns are delicate little ecosystems. They need to be nurtured and protected.'
Do this…
Definitely ride the Poppy Line, which takes 25 minutes to huff from Sheringham to the pretty market town of Holt. After that, head to the Little Theatre. Seating just 160, and almost entirely run by volunteers, it's small but mighty.
In 2024, actress Suranne Jones – who has a holiday home nearby – became President. 'She'd started to come quite regularly,' explained Debbie Thompson, the Little's director.
'She loved that it was a true community theatre and wanted to be involved.' Jones hosts workshops and helps promote the theatre's varied programme, which includes a traditional summer rep season, music, comedy and more.
Eat this…
Crab. Cromer, five miles east, has sown up the marketing, but Norfolk's famed crustaceans come from Sheringham too. In CA Seafoods you can buy them neatly dressed; it also has a 150-year-old smokehouse where they hot and cold smoke all sorts of fish. However, I ate at Camellia Cottage, a postcard-pretty, brick-and-flint cafe by the clock tower.
It was heaving, both inside and out in the courtyard garden. I ordered the crab sandwich and had a tense wait while the server checked with the kitchen, and nabbed the last one of the day. Steep at £12, but a local treat.
But don't do this…
The ancient Cromer Shoals Chalk Bed – nicknamed 'Britain's Great Barrier Reef' – is the longest in the world, and lies only a stone's skim offshore. The 46-metre-long Sheringham Snorkel Trail, which follows a disused Victorian sewage pipe, leads out to this unexpectedly colourful underwater world that teems with crab, lobsters, fish, rare sponges and anemones.
But in order to experience it, you need a long period of calm to cause the North Sea's sediment to drop and turn the water clear blue – which happens for about five or six days a year. Unless you get lucky, perhaps go stand-up paddle boarding with SUP Shack instead.
From a local
'Shops come and go, restaurants change – but not a lot. That's the charm of it. Sheringham is expanding out, with new houses, but the core has remained the same. It's a great little town where everyone looks out for each other.' – Chris Taylor, Sheringham-born photographer, lifeboatman and shanty-man.
From a tourist
'We've made a day-trip. My mum recommended the steam train, and it fully lived up to expectations. Quite slow but nice views and friendly staff. We like the museum. Now we're going to walk the seafront and get fish and chips from the shop with the longest queue.' – Sarah Wilson and Carl King from Lincolnshire
Get there
Sheringham is an hour by train from Norwich, at the end of the Bittern Line, which also stops at Cromer and Hoveton & Wroxham (a jumping-off point for the Broads).
The Coasthopper Bus connects Wells-next-the-Sea and Cromer, via Sheringham. For more information, see Visit North Norfolk and Experience Sheringham.
Stay at
Burlington Berties (01263 821500) has B&B doubles from £320 for two nights.