This Is What Fashion Needs Now
So it was pretty audacious, all things considered, for Glenn Martens, the new designer of the brand, to decide that his first coed show — and the first Margiela show of any kind since Mr. Galliano's — should also be couture.
Good thing it offered some genius of its own.
An exhilarating, multidimensional, occasionally misguided explosion of ideas, it was the most propulsive show of the week; a scream of originality amid collections and designer debuts that have largely offered well-calibrated wearability. It was extreme in its imagination and technique (sometimes too much so), but never namby-pamby. It's what fashion needs.
Even if it did not begin well.
Held in the same underground warren of concrete rooms where Martin Margiela, the founder, had staged his last show in 2008, it began, in fact, with two women in transparent plastic dresses. Their hands were trapped at the waist beneath their pencil skirts, their faces encased in plastic masks.
Masks were a Margiela signature — he thought they served to focus attention on the clothes — but here the models looked as though they were suffocating. It was painful to see, and seemed even more painful to wear, whether or not it was conscious commentary on the state of women in the world.
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It is, she says, an example of a classic perfect fifth, a musical interval known for its harmonious quality. 'It sounds so complete, so satisfying.' Glynne celebrated a decade of the track in March, which gave her her first UK number one, staying at the top of the charts for three weeks. Nominated for Song of the Year at the 2015 BBC Music Awards, it even charted on the US Billboard Hot 100. As well as being the soundtrack to all 115,000 Jet2 flights each year, it's been sampled in a Coca-Cola ad and was part of the 'Bridget Jones' Baby' soundtrack. Glynne hasn't publicly commented on the song going viral, but she did post her own spoof of the ad in May, larking around in the gym with her girlfriend. 'Here's to Jet2 blasting it in everyone's ears,' she wrote in March to mark its 10-year anniversary. She has started closing her sets with the track, as fans brandish 'Nothing beats a Jet2 Holiday' signs, according to music publication NME. 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