Acropolis shuts, outdoor work halted as heatwave scorches Greece

'Happy people': folk festivals punctuate Greek summer life

Yahoo

2 hours ago

Yahoo

'Happy people': folk festivals punctuate Greek summer life

It's midnight in the Aegean Sea but on the Greek island of Ikaria, in the courtyard of the church of St Elijah, the revelry was barely getting started. Dozens of dancers and scores of onlookers, including many tourists, were attending the local "panigiri", a folk celebration that is an integral part of centuries-old summer traditions in villages across Greece. Anyone can lock arms under the strumming of lutes and join the circle for the "Ikariotikos", a dance whose origins are believed to date to the 15th century. "People of all ages dance together in a circle, and the energy that emerges is fabulous," said Katerina Gerner, a German yoga instructor who spends half the year on the eastern Aegean island of around 9,000 residents. Some of the dancers were elderly men who are among Ikaria's notoriously long-lived residents. "It's like entering a trance through music, dance, in the circle, people are happy," she said. "There are large tables... we drink, we dance, it's a very friendly and cheerful atmosphere where everyone talks to each other," said Martine Bultot, a former doctor from France who has visited Ikaria for 35 years. Most Greek summer festivals are held on August 15, an important religious holiday marking the Dormition of Virgin Mary. In Ikaria, however, they go on to mid-September. Each panigiri is associated with the feast day of a local patron saint, such as the Prophet Elijah on July 20 and Saint John on August 28. Panagiota Andrianopoulou, an ethnologist at the Museum of Modern Greek Culture in Athens said the celebrations have existed "since the early years of Greek independence" in the early 19th century. "We tend to associate them with entertainment, but in fact these celebrations had an economic, social, and symbolic function," said the researcher who has studied these festivities in northern Greece. - Local values - "It is the moment when local values are consolidated, such as hospitality, openness, and acceptance of the other," she told AFP. And summer, the height of the harvest, was conducive to trade exchanges, she noted. "Animals, fabrics were bought, dairy products and dried fruits were exchanged, for example," Andrianopoulou said. Ikaria, which has a strong left-wing tradition and votes Communist, was one of the first islands to open up its folk festivals to outsiders. "It is important for the community of a village to come together as one," said Kostas Politis, one of the organisers who helped prepare the food sold during the evening. Goat, mutton and pork are usually on the main course, accompanied by resinated retsina wine. Not without mishaps, some people have been hospitalised with food poisoning. In the Peloponnese village of Ilia last year, nearly 40 people fell ill after eating boiled mutton. Another 30 were briefly hospitalised in Arta, northwestern Greece. - Instagram guests - The festivals have become so popular in recent years that some residents have begun to worry about the growing tourist turnout. Some are upset about these panigiri becoming "Instagrammable", with people mainly showing up to take photos and videos for social network postings. "In the past, these celebrations lasted three days, from Friday to Sunday," said Theodoris Georgiou, a retired engineer from Piraeus who spends his summers in Ikaria. "Today it's a bit more commercial. It's linked to the development of tourism," he added. The all-night duration of the panigiri is a more recent phenomenon, going back 40 years or so. A young Greco-Belgian woman who did not give her name argued that tourism has irrevocably changed the nature of the celebration. "I will never return to Ikaria; nothing is more respected in these traditions that tourists appropriate and destroy," she said, criticising the "post-colonial" attitude of visitors. Vagelis Melos, who came to the celebration with his two sons, was more philosophical. "When people change, the panigiria change," he said with a smile. yap/jph/giv

Cool Tirana: why Albania's affordable capital should be your next culture break

Yahoo

2 hours ago

Yahoo

Cool Tirana: why Albania's affordable capital should be your next culture break

Hear the word Albania and you probably picture gorgeous ocean views, Mediterranean sunsets or Dua Lipa's Instagram feed. It's why people heading to this underrated Mediterranean country are usually in search of its gorgeous rocky coast and find themselves speeding through the capital, Tirana. It's not seen as a destination in itself, with most people only spending a night there before jetting off to the southern seaside escapes of Sarandë and Ksamil. This is a shame, because anybody who finds themselves in Tirana for any length of time will discover a city currently undergoing an extraordinary transformation. Freed from five decades of dictatorship and economic stagnation, investment is now pouring into the Albanian capital, leaving fascinating new buildings, restaurants and cafes in its wake. With a growing foodie scene, a complex history and laid-back attitude, Tirana rewards the traveller who takes the time to explore it properly. Here's how to get under the skin of this buzzing city. Sightseeing galore Albania isn't a nation that's had much experience of independence. It was conquered first by the Ottomans (and occupied for 400 years); then, once they disappeared in the aftermath of the First World War, the Germans and Italians moved in during the Second. After that, the Albanian army general Enver Hoxha (backed by the USSR) swept to power on a wave of populist enthusiasm in the late 1940s. In a depressingly predictable twist, he then became a ruthless dictator, who brutally quashed all forms of dissent, sent rebels to concentration camps and plunged the country into decades of gruelling poverty. As a result, not much of Tirana's old city survives; much of it was levelled in a frenzy of Communist and Brutalist enthusiasm. However, glimpses are still visible, especially around Skanderbeg square in the capital's heart. To see them all, hopping on a free walking tour is always a good option (book in advance on It's also well suited for solo travellers. In addition to the modernist opera house that frames the edge of the square, do also head to the ancient mosque, Et'hem Bey, that sits next to it. Built by the Ottomans in the 1700s, it's a beautiful, simple bit of architecture framed by a clock tower on one side and the broad square on the other. From there, head onwards through the old streets to the new bazaar, which sells tourist trinkets and woven rugs as well as fruit and veg, and make time to wander up through Rruga Murat Toptani towards the old castle. Much of it was levelled by the Communists, but the remains have been stuffed with shops and are a nice place to sit and drink a coffee. One of the nicest things about Tirana is how much thought has been put into its revitalisation. It is not bland, soulless and full of skyscrapers like many modern cities; instead, architects have been commissioned from around the world to build quirky towers that add an interesting new dimension to the skyline. Check out the Skandarbeg tower near the main square as an example of that: built by Dutch studio MVRDV, its waves and curves, when viewed from the right angle, form a portrait of Albania's national hero, Skander. Relics of Hoxha are also visible around the capital in the form of the ostentatious pyramid designed by his daughter Pranvera as a shrine to her deceased father's memory. Pleasingly, these days it's home to a youth training centre; the steps on the outside can also be climbed, offering great views at the top. There are also the tiny, two-man bunkers Hoxha had installed around the capital (and the country) in the event of an invasion that never came, and his old house is now a museum in the Blloku neighbourhood. For people that really want to learn more about Hoxha's dictatorship, there's also Bunk'Art. Situated in an old government underground bunker (which was built in the event of nuclear war), it's impressive in scale: set over five stories. It has more than 100 different rooms, some of which have been mocked up to demonstrate how they would have looked under the regime. The museum itself gets into detail about the extent of police control in Albania, which make for a gruelling read. It's a relief afterwards to explore the art gallery that awaits near the bunker's exit ( Where to eat What do you mean, you've never had Albanian cuisine before? For the uninitiated, it's a palate-pleasing mixture of Ottoman and Greek influences (which makes sense, given that Crete is a mere half-hour boat ride from the Albanian coast). Top of the list of places to go is Mullixhiu. Situated in the buzzy area around the huge Grand Park (which is worth a stroll in itself), Mullixhiu specialises in delivering local flavours at surprisingly decent price points. When we went, a six course tasting menu cost 3000 lek, or around £30 – not bad, especially considering the plates upon plates of qifqi (fried rice balls), delicate fish and traditional soups we were served ( For a more interactive experience, Oda Garden by the new bazaar is a hidden gem. When I visited, there was a fun mix of locals and tourists, as well as a live band playing Albanian music (which resulted in an impromptu conga line around the restaurant). On offer is local beer, huge plates of kofte, roast lamb, fasule (bean stew) and dolma: hearty and delicious fare ( And if travellers want something a bit more ritzy, there's Lift. This steak restaurant doubles as a rooftop bar and does some mean cocktails — as well as being pretty much the best place in the city to eat meat. Plus, the view (from the top floor of one of the city's skyscrapers) is unmatched ( Where to drink Tirana has a booming café culture and locals have a deep love of coffee, often nursing one cup of espresso over an afternoon as they chat with friends. To try some of the best, head to n'Dritëro — a bookshop, and homage to the celebrated writer Dritëro Agolli that doubles up as a café. There's also Antigua Specialty Coffee in the Blloku area, which serves an excellent cup — something the café's legions of remote workers clearly know all about ( The Nordic-inspired bakery Noje is also a must-try: not only does it look incredibly chic, but it also serves an excellent pistachio croissant ( For those in need of something a bit stiffer, Spy offers a fun blend of high-end cocktails with an in-the-know touch ( Styled as an American speakeasy, the bar awaits down a simple set of stairs. Booking on the website will give you the entry code; in addition to the menu of classic cocktails, the bartender is a whizz at concocting new drinks on the fly (I duly put him through his paces and the results were delicious). Also worth a mention is Nouvelle Vague ( a coffee shop during the day that morphs into a high-concept cocktail bar at night. Drawing inspiration from the 1950's French film movement, the interior is plush and cosy, and the menu pleasingly full of puns: one of its rum cocktails, Rum si unë, is a take on the Albanian saying 'Lum si unë,' – which means 'Lucky me!' In need of some more? If you're willing to experiment, Radio Bar is both cosy and fun ( Located near the Grand Park, it serves a fun selection of cocktails in a retro, colourful interior — as well as shots of the local, potent spirit, raki. Where to stay A city that's primarily beloved by backpackers, Tirana doesn't offer a whole lot in terms of high-end accommodation. If you'd rather not stay in a hostel (though the Bearded Dad is always a good shout and offers separate rooms; there is the Arté Boutique Hotel. The rooms are chic and minimalist, but the location is the main appeal: it's in the heart of the city, and near some of its best restaurants ( If you want to spend a little more then the Xheko Imperial Luxury Hotel is suitably awe-inspiring. Located a 10-minute walk from the city centre, the palatial interiors give onto plush bedrooms with four-poster beds and balconies with views over the city. Even better, rooms start from £150 (

Yahoo

3 hours ago

Yahoo

Cool Tirana: why Albania's affordable capital should be your next culture break

Hear the word Albania and you probably picture gorgeous ocean views, Mediterranean sunsets or Dua Lipa's Instagram feed. It's why people heading to this underrated Mediterranean country are usually in search of its gorgeous rocky coast and find themselves speeding through the capital, Tirana. It's not seen as a destination in itself, with most people only spending a night there before jetting off to the southern seaside escapes of Sarandë and Ksamil. This is a shame, because anybody who finds themselves in Tirana for any length of time will discover a city currently undergoing an extraordinary transformation. Freed from five decades of dictatorship and economic stagnation, investment is now pouring into the Albanian capital, leaving fascinating new buildings, restaurants and cafes in its wake. With a growing foodie scene, a complex history and laid-back attitude, Tirana rewards the traveller who takes the time to explore it properly. Here's how to get under the skin of this buzzing city. Sightseeing galore Albania isn't a nation that's had much experience of independence. It was conquered first by the Ottomans (and occupied for 400 years); then, once they disappeared in the aftermath of the First World War, the Germans and Italians moved in during the Second. After that, the Albanian army general Enver Hoxha (backed by the USSR) swept to power on a wave of populist enthusiasm in the late 1940s. In a depressingly predictable twist, he then became a ruthless dictator, who brutally quashed all forms of dissent, sent rebels to concentration camps and plunged the country into decades of gruelling poverty. As a result, not much of Tirana's old city survives; much of it was levelled in a frenzy of Communist and Brutalist enthusiasm. However, glimpses are still visible, especially around Skanderbeg square in the capital's heart. To see them all, hopping on a free walking tour is always a good option (book in advance on It's also well suited for solo travellers. In addition to the modernist opera house that frames the edge of the square, do also head to the ancient mosque, Et'hem Bey, that sits next to it. Built by the Ottomans in the 1700s, it's a beautiful, simple bit of architecture framed by a clock tower on one side and the broad square on the other. From there, head onwards through the old streets to the new bazaar, which sells tourist trinkets and woven rugs as well as fruit and veg, and make time to wander up through Rruga Murat Toptani towards the old castle. Much of it was levelled by the Communists, but the remains have been stuffed with shops and are a nice place to sit and drink a coffee. One of the nicest things about Tirana is how much thought has been put into its revitalisation. It is not bland, soulless and full of skyscrapers like many modern cities; instead, architects have been commissioned from around the world to build quirky towers that add an interesting new dimension to the skyline. Check out the Skandarbeg tower near the main square as an example of that: built by Dutch studio MVRDV, its waves and curves, when viewed from the right angle, form a portrait of Albania's national hero, Skander. Relics of Hoxha are also visible around the capital in the form of the ostentatious pyramid designed by his daughter Pranvera as a shrine to her deceased father's memory. Pleasingly, these days it's home to a youth training centre; the steps on the outside can also be climbed, offering great views at the top. There are also the tiny, two-man bunkers Hoxha had installed around the capital (and the country) in the event of an invasion that never came, and his old house is now a museum in the Blloku neighbourhood. For people that really want to learn more about Hoxha's dictatorship, there's also Bunk'Art. Situated in an old government underground bunker (which was built in the event of nuclear war), it's impressive in scale: set over five stories. It has more than 100 different rooms, some of which have been mocked up to demonstrate how they would have looked under the regime. The museum itself gets into detail about the extent of police control in Albania, which make for a gruelling read. It's a relief afterwards to explore the art gallery that awaits near the bunker's exit ( Where to eat What do you mean, you've never had Albanian cuisine before? For the uninitiated, it's a palate-pleasing mixture of Ottoman and Greek influences (which makes sense, given that Crete is a mere half-hour boat ride from the Albanian coast). Top of the list of places to go is Mullixhiu. Situated in the buzzy area around the huge Grand Park (which is worth a stroll in itself), Mullixhiu specialises in delivering local flavours at surprisingly decent price points. When we went, a six course tasting menu cost 3000 lek, or around £30 – not bad, especially considering the plates upon plates of qifqi (fried rice balls), delicate fish and traditional soups we were served ( For a more interactive experience, Oda Garden by the new bazaar is a hidden gem. When I visited, there was a fun mix of locals and tourists, as well as a live band playing Albanian music (which resulted in an impromptu conga line around the restaurant). On offer is local beer, huge plates of kofte, roast lamb, fasule (bean stew) and dolma: hearty and delicious fare ( And if travellers want something a bit more ritzy, there's Lift. This steak restaurant doubles as a rooftop bar and does some mean cocktails — as well as being pretty much the best place in the city to eat meat. Plus, the view (from the top floor of one of the city's skyscrapers) is unmatched ( Where to drink Tirana has a booming café culture and locals have a deep love of coffee, often nursing one cup of espresso over an afternoon as they chat with friends. To try some of the best, head to n'Dritëro — a bookshop, and homage to the celebrated writer Dritëro Agolli that doubles up as a café. There's also Antigua Specialty Coffee in the Blloku area, which serves an excellent cup — something the café's legions of remote workers clearly know all about ( The Nordic-inspired bakery Noje is also a must-try: not only does it look incredibly chic, but it also serves an excellent pistachio croissant ( For those in need of something a bit stiffer, Spy offers a fun blend of high-end cocktails with an in-the-know touch ( Styled as an American speakeasy, the bar awaits down a simple set of stairs. Booking on the website will give you the entry code; in addition to the menu of classic cocktails, the bartender is a whizz at concocting new drinks on the fly (I duly put him through his paces and the results were delicious). Also worth a mention is Nouvelle Vague ( a coffee shop during the day that morphs into a high-concept cocktail bar at night. Drawing inspiration from the 1950's French film movement, the interior is plush and cosy, and the menu pleasingly full of puns: one of its rum cocktails, Rum si unë, is a take on the Albanian saying 'Lum si unë,' – which means 'Lucky me!' In need of some more? If you're willing to experiment, Radio Bar is both cosy and fun ( Located near the Grand Park, it serves a fun selection of cocktails in a retro, colourful interior — as well as shots of the local, potent spirit, raki. Where to stay A city that's primarily beloved by backpackers, Tirana doesn't offer a whole lot in terms of high-end accommodation. If you'd rather not stay in a hostel (though the Bearded Dad is always a good shout and offers separate rooms; there is the Arté Boutique Hotel. The rooms are chic and minimalist, but the location is the main appeal: it's in the heart of the city, and near some of its best restaurants ( If you want to spend a little more then the Xheko Imperial Luxury Hotel is suitably awe-inspiring. Located a 10-minute walk from the city centre, the palatial interiors give onto plush bedrooms with four-poster beds and balconies with views over the city. Even better, rooms start from £150 (

Acropolis shuts, outdoor work halted as heatwave scorches Greece

Hashtags

Try Our AI Features

Comments

Related Articles

'Happy people': folk festivals punctuate Greek summer life

Cool Tirana: why Albania's affordable capital should be your next culture break

Cool Tirana: why Albania's affordable capital should be your next culture break

Acropolis shuts, outdoor work halted as heatwave scorches Greece

Hashtags

Try Our AI Features

Comments

Related Articles

'Happy people': folk festivals punctuate Greek summer life

Cool Tirana: why Albania's affordable capital should be your next culture break

Cool Tirana: why Albania's affordable capital should be your next culture break

Get Started Now: Download the App