‘Protect the dolls': How a t-shirt became a viral symbol for trans rights

Euronews

24-04-2025

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Pedro Pascal caused a sensation on Tuesday when he made a surprise appearance at the London premiere of
*
the new Marvel film
Thunderbolts*
.
*
The actor stood on the red carpet wearing a white t-shirt with the message 'Protect the Dolls' written in black, in support of trans women, just days after
the UK Supreme Court ruled that a woman is defined by 'biological sex.'
Pascal has been a vocal supporter of trans rights ever since his sister, actress Lux Pascal, came out as trans in 2021.
He is the latest celebrity spotted wearing the garment, which became viral in recent weeks as trans rights came under attack in the United States and the United Kingdom.
Inspired by 1980s LGBTQ+ ballroom culture
The t-shirt was created by American-born, London-based designer Conner Ives. The creative first wore the up-cycled shirt when he closed out his Fall 2025 show at
London Fashion Week
in February.
Conner Hives closing out his Fall 2025 show at London Fashion Week in February 2025
Ik Aldama/Courtesy of Conner Ives
The phrase 'Protect the Dolls' specifically refers to trans women. It originated in the
1980s ballroom scene,
an underground culture that emerged in the African American and Latino queer communities.
'It was very reactive', Ives told the New York Times of making the t-shirt the night before his show. 'I knew I wanted to say something, given what we've observed in the last few months with the US government and the current political regime.'
During his inauguration ceremony in January, US President Donald Trump said the federal government would only recognise two genders, male and female.
Trump has since signed several executive orders targeting trans people, including barring trans women from women's prisons and restricting gender-affirming care for people under 19.
In this context, the popularity of Ives' t-shirt skyrocketed. Pedro Pascal first sported it at his 50th birthday party in early April, where he was pictured alongside DJ and trans icon Honey Dijon.
Elswehere, singer Troye Sivan wore it when he joined
Charli XCX
on stage at Coachella. Designer Haider Ackermann and popular Gen Z artists Addison Rae and Tate McRae were also spotted wearing the viral shirt.
Troye Sivan wearing the 'Protect the Dolls' shirt alongside Lorde, Charli XCX and Billie Eilish
Instagram/@troyesivan
The trend also reflects the comeback of slogan t-shirts, which became hugely popular in the 2000s and have often been vehicles for political statements.
Donald Trump's first presidential victory in 2016 saw a wave of feminist-themed tops hit clothing shop shelves. The most famous one was probably the 'We should all be feminists' t-shirt designed by Dior's Maria Grazia Chiuri in her spring-summer 2017 collection.
Although popular with the public, these fashion statements have sometimes been deemed performative and inconsistent with the working conditions and environmental consequences of the fashion industry.
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More than £190,235 raised
Pedro Pascal's outfit at the London premiere of
Thunderbolts*
still had a particular resonance in the British context. The UK Supreme Court ruled on 16 April that a woman is someone born biologically female, effectively excluding trans women from the legal definition.
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The ruling settled a dispute between the Scottish government and the gender-critical campaign group For Women Scotland, which has received support from
J. K. Rowling
.
'I love it when a plan comes together', the Harry Potter author celebrated on X following the decision.
The Supreme Court's ruling means that trans women can be excluded from single-sex spaces such as changing rooms or homeless shelters.
Scotland's Justice Secretary Shirley-Anne Somerville said the Scottish government would update its guidance on single-sex spaces in accordance with the decision.
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'I want to reassure our trans community that you are valued and the Scottish Government is fully committed to protecting everyone's rights and that includes your community', she said in Parliament on Tuesday.
In the meantime, Conner Hives' 'Protect the Dolls' campaign goes on. The £75 (about €88) t-shirt is now sold out but remains available for pre-order. The sales brought in more than £190,235 (about €222,500) as of 18 April, according to Hives.
Most of the proceeds are donated to Trans Lifeline, a US-based charity in support of trans people.