Jersey: a coastal enclave with astonishing tides (and awesome seafood)

Telegraph

24-04-2025

Now here is a riddle for the well travelled. Which of the British Isles grows by 30 per cent, twice daily? And shares similarities with both California and Maine?
The answer is the Channel Island of Jersey. At nine miles west to east and five miles south to north it is the largest of a small clutch of islands that cosy up to France's Normandy peninsula.
It gains that extra girth twice daily through some of the biggest tides in northern Europe, bigger even than the largest on the US east coast at Maine, although both destinations are celebrated for their coastal scenery and their seafood.
A great way to experience that tidal movement is to walk out through the shellfish-rich intertidal zone to Seymour Tower, a 250-year-old lookout which sits one-and-a-half miles out from dry land at La Rocque on the island's southern shore. The walk passes oyster farms on the Violet Bank and is best done with a guide, lest the returning tide catches you unawares.
Contrast this rugged, reef-strewn seascape to the beach that runs the width of the island's western end at St Ouen's bay. This is something completely different and where Jersey feels like California. The broad, stunning strand runs for mile after immaculate mile, backed by a series of beach cafés frequented by surfers and sunset watchers, and the prevailing wind makes it the perfect spot for kite surfing.
This is beach life with a French twist. The coast of Normandy is just 14 miles away, so it's just as easy to reach Jersey from France as it is from the UK. The island can easily be reached on a short ferry crossing either to Barneville-Carteret, which operates through the peak season, from April to September, or the year-round service from or more distant St Malo, making it a natural addition to any European trip.
That proximity to France has also had a longstanding influence on local history and culture. Until not so long ago the spoken language here was a kind of Norman French called Jèrriais and, although few locals speak it any more, it shines through in all the names and the local cuisine.
As for the island's topography, that is neatly defined with the north shore being wilder and higher, full of dramatic cliffs, coves and caves, and a coastal path that swoops and climbs like a rollercoaster. On a clear day you can easily see France.
Meanwhile the south coast is sun-facing and more gently sloped so there are more people – and houses.
One of the most immaculate and sheltered of the island's beaches is up on the rugged northwest corner at Plémont, its pink-tinged sand (thanks to the island granite) washed clean by the tide twice a day. In fact, come here at high tide and you wouldn't think there was a beach here at all.
Plémont takes a bit of effort to reach, down flights of steps, and anyone making that effort should also walk the coastal path westwards through blowsy gorse-rich heathland to the ruined fort at Grosnez. From this viewpoint you can see the islands of Sark and distant Guernsey to your left, with Normandy to your right, beyond a sandbar islet called Les Écréhous, which like Les Minquiers further south expands and contracts with the tide, and is crowned by a couple of fishing huts. Jersey Seafaris runs RIB boat tours around the main island's coastline and out to these islets – where you may well spot Atlantic grey seals and bottlenose dolphins.
Plémont's corresponding beach on the south coast is Portelet, equally pink-tinged, also with a flight of steps to navigate, which makes it ideal for a self-guided snorkel trail around a tower named Janvrin's Tomb, the final resting place of a plague-stricken ship's captain in the 18th century.
Just west of Portelet is the busiest of the family beaches, St Brelade's Bay, its sand backed by a mix of traditional and elegant resort hotels and restaurants. This is the place to try stand-up paddleboarding and kayaking.
Finally, the eastern end of the island has scenic beaches at Gorey (sand) and Archirondel (pebble), with defensive towers and the 800-year-old castle of Mont Orgeuil looming in the background. Popular with year-round sea swimmers, Archirondel is known for its historic red-and-white Martello tower and its Driftwood Café, serving delicious homemade food, many of the dishes using fish locally sourced by owners Leyton Hunnisett and Gabby Mason, who also run Jade-S Fisheries.
Whichever beach you choose, there will always be a kiosk or a beach café to hand. A place to sit and maybe even have a cocktail as you watch the sun go down.
Indulge in the sea's bounty
Hand-dived scallops, farmed and wild oysters, creel-caught lobsters as well as multiple varieties of wetfish are widely available all over the island, both from fine-dining restaurants such as the island's sole Michelin-starred eaterie, Bohemia Bar and Restaurant in St Helier, serving modern European dishes and a delectable pescatarian menu from chef Callum Graham's kitchen, and from informal locations such as the kiosk in the harbour village of Rozel called the Hungry Man, known for its crab sandwiches.
Popular locations such as St Aubin, with its extensive yacht marina, are well stocked with restaurants including The Boat House, with lots of seafood options. Look out for a speciality shellfish the locals call ormer – a type of abalone – which occasionally appears on local menus.
Where to stay in Jersey
Atlantic Hotel, St Brelade
A sun-filled luxury resort hotel overlooking the dramatic sweep of sand that is St Ouen's Bay on the island's western end, with its own spa and emphasis on particularly fine dining.
Longueville Manor, St Saviour
A handsome manor house, partly 14th century, in lovely well-tended gardens on the sheltered southern shore. The only Relais & Châteaux property on the island, so even the French are impressed by its cuisine.
Jersey's Heritage Lets, island wide
An eclectic selection of self-catering options within heritage buildings, from rustic offshore towers to the aforementioned Radio Tower, to apartments in castles and in traditional farm complexes.
How to get there and around
The island is a short direct flight or car ferry ride away from the UK or Ireland and direct flights also operate from certain French and German airports during the busier months of the year. If you're travelling from France, regular ferries run from St Malo. Car rental is available at the airport, as are taxis, while the local bus network is a reliable and inexpensive way to explore, connecting Jersey's main locations and attractions.
Jersey – where sea meets soul
Imagine an island that blends rich history, stunning seascapes and an exceptional culinary scene. One that brims with beauty and year-round adventures, and is closer than you think. Whether you're looking for a food-filled escape, to unearth hidden history or an active break, Jersey offers it all and so much more.