A Cocktail Bar With Dim Sum To Debut Next Week in Central Square
The new cocktail bar, called Darling (464 Massachusetts Avenue) — a reference to the phrase 'Kill Your Darlings' meaning don't be precious about your creation – is located in the old Mary Chung's space, which has seen a complete overhaul.
'I thought of Central Square being, you know, quirky. It's vibrant, it's a little weird,' Callahan (previously of Row 34 and the now shuttered Tiger Mama and Orfano) told Eater. 'We wanted Darling to have character, we wanted it to have a lived in feel, but we also wanted it to feel kind of nice. So I think there's a really nice balance in the space.'
The team took down the old wallpaper and found exposed brick walls that they left in place. They also commissioned a partial mural from artist Julia Purinton.
The interior sign at Darling. J.M. Leech
The dining room at Darling. J.M. Leech
Food is traditional dim sum style, according to Chen.The menu, created by Executive Chef Mark O'Leary (previously of Shojo, O Ya, and JM Curley), will blend nostalgic American dishes with Chinese dishes – think filet o' fish bao – along with favorites like tonkotsu xiao long bao, red braised pork ribs, and egg custard tarts.
The libations include dazzlers like a clarified milk punch drink called Hope I Packed a Parachute, a cognac and condensed milk cocktail inspired by Hong Kong French toast that's fittingly called HK French Toast. A low ABV drink called Sweep the Leg employs a fairly modern cocktail technique called the switching method: To make this cocktail, Valdespino Fino Inocente sherry is frozen, and the water content is removed and replaced with housemade tomato water, resulting in a briny, tart cocktail that Callahan told Eater is 'really nice, delicate, but with touches of umami and vegetable notes.'
Callahan and Chen (formerly of Eastern Standard, Coquette, and Mariel) emphasize impermanence and experimentation. They're planning on switching out specials daily, and are hoping it encourages a dialog between the bartenders and the guests. 'If they have a drink that they like, and then come back and it's gone, they might be bummed,' Callahan told Eater, 'It's our job to make sure we have something else on the menu for every type of person, so they can find something new – we'll have seasonal ingredients on hand to make something similar – opening up a great conversation.'
The cocktail bar is open Tuesday through Thursday from 5pm to 12am, Friday and Saturdays from 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. and Sunday from 5 p.m. to 12 a.m. Reservations are available via Resy.
The Common Trope cocktail. J.M. Leech
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